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Brake lines dont look that bad. Hopefully never have to replace them.
Looking good. You'll be happy with the results. IMO really washoff is a function of how much you drive when its raining. Both pb and FF have to be applied to front facing components yearly for me in MD
Finished the front passenger side. Mostly just wanted to do the brake line fitting and dust shield. Hit the exposed axle bolt that is showing signs of rust. Also wanted to spray the bottom of the shock bellows that was previously making a loud creaking noise from rubbing.
I used the plastic straws to spray in openings. The straws dont stay on the Surface Shield nozzles that good, they shoot off after one or two squirts I noticed.
The front of the car seems to be in better condition than the rear subframe area, guessing the plastic undertrays are doing there job. Mostly was concerned about the brake lines due to recently replacing the rear passenger side due to rust. The fitting to the flex line was so rusted I had to use vice grips to unscrew it and destroyed it. I want to avoid that on the front if I ever have to replace the flex lines or calipers.
Curious how everything is going to look come spring.
Looks like I have to go back in the drivers wheel well. When I took the liner off there was some piece just sitting in there, not stuck to anything. On the rear liners there is a pad that is stuck on, some type of insulation. I figured the front piece must have fallen off. Not I see from the diagram it is just thrown in there.
True as far as original product...... Cosmoline Website appears to have alternative products similar to the items listed by TimC300. Merry Christmas All !
I came across some info of what Mercedes recommends to install on the hard brake lines. In the manual for replacing the brake lines it mentions a cavity wax. Seems pretty expensive at around $45 at the local MB parts dept.
I also wanted to mention coming across heat shield repair discs since I mentioned replacing some rusted nuts. On my car it looks like the nuts have rusted and the heat shield around the nuts has disintegrated away, which is why I used the larger diameter plastic nuts so it would hold. Plus the OE metal nuts are $4/each and im not finding aftermarket replacements.
Update to my corrosion protection since its almost winter and I am spraying the underside again.
Out of the 3 products I used the CorrosionX HD seems to have held up the best. The Surface Shield and the Fluid Film has washed off alot of areas.
Heres the side in the rear I sprayed the CorrosionX HD last year. There is still a film/coating.
Heres the transmission pan. Still a thick coating on it:
Heres the front where I sprayed Surface Shield. Still on but not that noticeable and needs a refresh:
I went ahead and picked up two cans of CorrosionX XD to use this time. Its supposed to be a medium film between the regular CorrosionX and the HD. Its a larger can and less expensive than the HD. used one can already to do the rear and it sprays great, almost too quick so builds up fast. I didnt do any clean up, just sprayed over everything. It has a distinct smell, reminds me of buttered popcorn.
Sounds like everything is working as designed. The lanolin based products are really for yearly application and inside of cavities so that it can spread and drip. The wax is for surfaces outside and can resist washing.
glad you are seeing the benefit of the protection. I think I had mentioned previously that I’ve been doing this for years and the frame looks exactly like new and this is on a 2006 LX, known to rust.
I like brushing on the fluid film from under the car, i got to find or make a brush that faces down or bends at 180 degrees so i can hit the top of components better.
Use the cheap disposable brushes with the wood handles, cut some paint stirrers and use wood glue to make handles any shape you want.
They sell them but seems like a waste of money for one time use.
Id use my hands to spread it around. Wear disposable gloves.
Yup, was using my fingers.
How are your exhausts holding up? For being 17 years, mine are not too bad, but did have the resonators deleted because of rusting at the connection points just upstream of them.
Since owning the car I had to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold due to it corroded and leaking. The gasket blew out. That I ended up taking to the MB dealer to do since the engine mount was right in the way and I was snapping the studs trying to loosen them.
I have replaced all the clamps on the exhaust because they were totally rusted away and I could break them off by hand.
I still have one more repair I need to do to it. The flange from the passenger cat to the resonator is rusted and broken off. My plan is to cut the flange off and install a new flange I bought. It was a project tracking down a flange that will work, something i can just slide on over the existing pipe while being able to fit the donut type seal that is at that joint. From my measurements the new piece should fit on tight so I can just install a clamp i bought. I found a 304 stainless ball and socket joint that I have to modify. I did buy a welder and have been practicing welding in case i do have to weld a little to seal it up.
Luckily the existing pipes slide in together so its not like it will fall down. Its just not properly sealed from an exhaust leak.
I feel like I should protect the exhaust with something too, like high temp paint, not sure, or at least spray paint the weld points, I do have some flaking at the welds
Probably a waste of time and materials trying to protect the exhaust. The welds are pretty thick so im not too concerned with them. Searching around on ebay for used exhausts I see the flange is a problem area. Im guessing its because these areas are flared out and thinner material. Then the clamps probably put stress on it.
I'd love to know what exact metal these exhausts are made of but cant find an answer. The new flange is 304 ss and I bought some 308l welding rods hoping it will hold.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
