So, my ESL has failed, in the unlocked position, in my garage, at home. I feel blessed. Should I push my luck and do the lottery this weekend?

Emulator ordered.

 

Is the emulator programmed?
Just curious what it cost you and where you sent it to?

 

I've not sent it yet. I've ordered the removal socket from Amazon. I've used a seller on eBay so I'll let you know how that goes. I will need to send my EIS and key for programming. As the ESL has failed in the unlocked position and my car still starts, I plan to simply disconnect the harness, leaving the old ESL in situ, and simply plug in the emulator.

 

Price is $120.

 

was that your original esl that failed?

 

When mine failed open, I was likewise lucky enough to be in the garage. I disconnected the battery while the key was in the ignition without the engine running, and left it like that until parts came in.

Failed at 11 years, 145k miles.

 

That is a very fair price. See if he will let you share his contact info here. If not maybe his ebay ID.

 

I did the exact same thing. It's staying that way until the emulator is fitted.

2013 C250 70k miles.

 

I believe so.. I've only had the car 8 months.

 

I'll let you all know once the job is complete. I've ordered the socket to remove the EIS this eve.

 

By way of an update I removed the EIS yesterday (no need to dismantle the dashboard at all or actually totally remove any trim ) and am sending it off for emulator programming today. I'll keep you updated.

 

The codes emulator is on the way back. I'm in TX until Weds so I'll likely take time off work and complete the task after I return. Only updating as I hate it when someone starts a thread and doesn't follow up!

 

Agreed, also a pet hate of mine.

 

When ESL hit our C250 coupe......................

Somehow I ended up at the selling dealer in El Dorado Hilsl (not too far from California's capital)................

$1000 bucks later all was fixed...............

Not long after this long established dealer - with three locations - sold out to some LA high rollers (but reportedly low performers..............)

Coupe continues on track - my wife is happy - and we know how that works...........

ez

 

You could also use two flat head screwdrivers to turn.

Exactly. Bye bye ESL from there.

 

I'm figuring out how to disconnect the ESL harness without dropping the steering column. Of course being 30 again would help. Footwell limbo.

 

Job done! Full write up with photos to follow. No need to remove the steering column though. Or any other major components. I'm glad to have addressed this ticking time bomb. The emulator even replicates the sound of the lock motor.

 

Having successfully fitted an ESL emulator to the one W204 model that is not formally described in the title of this part of MBWorld, a C250 (go ahead and check!!), I thought that it would be good to provide a write up of how I tackled the job with photos.
I was fortunate in that my ESL failed in the open position in the comfort of my climate controlled garage at home and not in the locked position on some sun baked parking lot somewhere.

1. I unlocked the car, popped the hood and disconnected the battery. The reason for this was to ensure that the ESL stayed in the unlocked position.
   • Note make sure you move the driver's seat as far back as you can, before disconnecting the battery. You will need the extra space!
   • If you have an electrically adjustable steering wheel then move it to the highest tilt position
2. Removing the EIS to send to the emulator supplier for coding: Move the steering wheel to its highest position (manual adjustment) and unclip the leather steering column shroud per the photo below. This is the extent of disassembly required other than the removal of the EIS.
3. Unscrew the EIS locking ring and press the EIS rearward. Via the gap circled in red reach in and maneuver the EIS pulling it until you can see the two electrical connectors and the gear shift interlock steel cable. Disconnect both harnesses and the gearshift cable.
   • Note that the gearshift cable is the physical constraint here. It is difficult to orient the EIS and it only just clears the gap between dash and the steering wheel gaiter. You disconnect the cable by pulling back on the square connector, like you are pulling the slide back on an automatic pistol.
   • Once you have released the cable then the EIS can simply be pulled through the gap.
4. Send off the removed EIS and an ignition key to your chosen emulator vendor. I used a seller on eBay and will include a link to his page below. Total cost was $127 for the emulator including return shipping. Turnaround door to door was about four days.
5. Then when you get the emulator and key returned move on to disconnecting the ESL harness. This can absolutely be done without major dash disassembly or steering column removal. Here goes.
   • Remove drivers side footwell kick panel. The hardest task here is removing the hood release lever as it is impossible to get into a position where you can see the philips screw head. This has to be done by touch or you could use a mirror to try and see.
   • You will also need to remove the assembly line diagnostic link socket and the footwell light. The ALDL socket (or OBD port) is removed by pulling back on the peripheral retaining clip. Then it just pops out.
6. And that's it. Once you have the kick panel out of the way that is all the dash trim you need to remove to get to the ESL!
7. The ESL however is hidden behind a substantial cast aluminum plate and there is no way to even touch the ESL harness. Here is how I tackled this.
   • The cast aluminum plate supports the steering column and is held to the structure of the car with four bolts. These bolts are T12 I believe but can be removed with a basic 10mm socket.
   • Both lower bolts need to come out and by lying in the footwell with your back arched over the drivers sill (in agony) you can remove the bolts using a 3/8 ratchet, 6+" extension and a 10mm socket.
     
     
   • The upper bolts are tough to get to, but it can be done, using the above tools minus the extension. You do NOT need to remove these bolts just slacken them about five turns.
   • You will now have the aluminum plate in a state where the rear section and thus the steering column can be pulled down sufficiently to get your hand through the gap between plate and body structure to remove the ESL harness. Once you have done this pull the ESL harness clear and refit and re tighten the bolts for the aluminum plate. Leave the ESL itself where it is. It can perform no function now and there is no way the lock can activate at all. From this point you are putting things back together.
   • Plug the ESL harness into the emulator, and secure the emulator to a convenient anchor. I just zipped tied it to a substantial harness. The unit weighs about the same as a box of matches. It is quite hard getting decent photos of this sort of work. This one is pretty blurry. Apols!
8. Now all you need to do is connect the EIS, relocate it in the dash, refit the footwell kick panel (yes the hood release is as painful to refit as it is to disconnect), click the column gaiter back into place and reconnect the battery.
9. Job done. Have a beer!!

eBay seller that I used https://www.ebay.com/itm/185782577365

I hope that description is clear. If anyone has any questions then let me know.

Footnotes -
Opinion - If the ESL had failed in the locked position then removal of all four aluminum support plate bolts and with the help of an assistant, it might be possible to create sufficient space to unbolt the ESL and potentially grind down the ESL mounting bolt (with a compact electrical grinder / Dremel). You could get destructive here as you would have no intention to replace or refit the ESL. Maybe someone has performed this task?

Do not try and repair your ESL. There is literally no point as there are several failure modes, e.g. in replacing the motor you are not catering for future IC failure etc, and actually put IC chips at risk if you do the job incorrectly. Just take the whole ESL out of the equation and fit an emulator.

For UK folks where a functioning steering lock is apparently part of the annual MOT inspection, the emulator that I fitted has a small speaker that replicates the sound of a steering lock. Offer to buy the tester a beer, and perhaps get the inspection completed via a known sympathetic garage. After all a non-functional steering lock has nothing to do with safety or vehicle operation.

 

Excellent guide!

Your use of practical descriptions are great: “… like you are pulling the slide back on an automatic pistol” “… lying in the footwell with your back arched over the drivers sill (in agony).”

And the C250 not being specifically listed didn’t stop anyone from posting about it, so no dread there.

 

[QUOTE=Odd Piggy;9214798]Excellent guide!

Your use of practical descriptions are great: “… like you are pulling the slide back on an automatic pistol” “… lying in the footwell with your back arched over the drivers sill (in agony).”

Similes are useful, especially when an action is hard to put into words. Even our UK folks might get it, for while never having held a firearm, they will have seen John Wick or similar!

Working in a footwell truly is agonizing. At least for me these days.
Thank you for the positive feedback my friend.

 

See full repair summary.

 

I just bought a w204 and am going to do this asap. Seems like there are no downsides.

 

I 100% agree. If I buy another Merc, then this is on the preemptive maintenance list. Can you imagine one failing in the locked position at an airport parking deck or 2AM at a gas station. A four figure $ problem!