Power Steering Malfunction, EBV, ABS, ESP Inoperative
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2025
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Brazil
C300 Sport 2010
Power Steering Malfunction, EBV, ABS, ESP Inoperative
I am having an issue with my 2010 Mercedes C300. In my country, this is a RWD model and it does not have an auxiliary battery, only the main one under the hood.
When I exceed the speed of 23 km/h (approx. 14 mph), several warning lights come on: EBV, ESP, and ABS. Additionally, the power steering becomes extremely heavy, making it difficult to maneuver the car. There is also an error code stating that the tire pressure monitor is inoperative. If I try to use the Cruise Control, another error appears.
This issue first occurred earlier this year; I continued using the car and one day the problem simply vanished. However, a few days ago it returned. I tried the 'lock-to-lock' steering wheel reset (turning it while in reverse), but it didn't work. My first thought was the battery, so I replaced it with a brand new one, but the problem persists.
What caught my attention is the voltage: when I start the car, the battery peaks at a bit over 14V, but then it starts to drop and stabilizes at 12.6V—even with the lights and air conditioning on (this happens with both the old and the new battery).
Could this be a faulty alternator? It is worth noting that when I start the car, no errors appear; the alerts only pop up once I pass the 23 km/h mark.
When I exceed the speed of 23 km/h (approx. 14 mph), several warning lights come on: EBV, ESP, and ABS. Additionally, the power steering becomes extremely heavy, making it difficult to maneuver the car. There is also an error code stating that the tire pressure monitor is inoperative. If I try to use the Cruise Control, another error appears.
This issue first occurred earlier this year; I continued using the car and one day the problem simply vanished. However, a few days ago it returned. I tried the 'lock-to-lock' steering wheel reset (turning it while in reverse), but it didn't work. My first thought was the battery, so I replaced it with a brand new one, but the problem persists.
What caught my attention is the voltage: when I start the car, the battery peaks at a bit over 14V, but then it starts to drop and stabilizes at 12.6V—even with the lights and air conditioning on (this happens with both the old and the new battery).
Could this be a faulty alternator? It is worth noting that when I start the car, no errors appear; the alerts only pop up once I pass the 23 km/h mark.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 692
2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
That is about the speed the ABS becomes active. You may have a bad ABS control unit. Other problems could be a bad wheel speed sensor or reluctor ring. All of these systems are related.
A dedicated Mercedes scanner would probably show trouble codes to help pinpoint the failure.
A dedicated Mercedes scanner would probably show trouble codes to help pinpoint the failure.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 692
2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,346
Likes: 692
2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
I’m not sure, but there are things like complete loss of pressure in the brake system that will put the car in limp mode. If you will only be on low speed local streets near home, try it cautiously.
