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Old 06-24-2015, 12:20 PM
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Old 01-24-2017, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vic viper
Why run it all the way back there when the front SAM module and fuse box is located next to the brake booster in the engine bay.
hi mate could you tell me which slot did you choose for yellow and red wire?
Old 01-26-2017, 06:41 AM
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Hi guys.
When buying the camera from the blackvue website there's options to select the memory capacity.
Since it works with an sd card,the memory choice(different prices)means that it comes with a 16 gb for example or that's the size of the memory card it will accept?
Cheapest option is 16 gb,but does this mean that it will only accept 16 gb cards?
Thanks.
Old 01-26-2017, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by christyan78
Hi guys.
When buying the camera from the blackvue website there's options to select the memory capacity.
Since it works with an sd card,the memory choice(different prices)means that it comes with a 16 gb for example or that's the size of the memory card it will accept?
Cheapest option is 16 gb,but does this mean that it will only accept 16 gb cards?
Thanks.
I got mine with 16gb as, I put a 64gb lexar in it and it works
Old 01-26-2017, 07:56 AM
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Ok.Thanks.
Old 03-25-2017, 10:40 AM
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2017 C63AS Cabriolet
I have the cabriolet. Any idea how to mount a rear camera with the two CH version?
Old 03-25-2017, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Saliv8
I have the cabriolet. Any idea how to mount a rear camera with the two CH version?
Old 03-26-2017, 10:54 AM
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LoL

Originally Posted by DBOC205
does this option come with a dvr?
Old 04-29-2017, 02:07 AM
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Originally Posted by christyan78
Hi guys.
When buying the camera from the blackvue website there's options to select the memory capacity.
Since it works with an sd card,the memory choice(different prices)means that it comes with a 16 gb for example or that's the size of the memory card it will accept?
Cheapest option is 16 gb,but does this mean that it will only accept 16 gb cards?
Thanks.
Some forums imply that certain brands don't work well particularly with heat buildup (eg Sandisk)... so I'm thinking this is something I can't afford to fail when I need it most so probably better to go with whatever they recommend? *shrug*

On a side note I'm looking at 650S now, just debating if I want 1 or 2ch. Will probably get the magic power thing for the parking feature too.
Old 07-16-2017, 01:45 PM
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Screen issues

Great info thanks as just had 2ch blackvue and power magic pro installed and the guy used front fuse box and wrapped around fuse. After week of no issues we now are losing command screen, Bluetooth etc ... very hit and miss if works but seems to be getting worse. Could it be linked to the dashcam install or has anyone else had issues with command etc... we have 2016 W205 C200 auto. Thanks and great info...
Old 07-17-2017, 05:37 AM
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Try High Endurance SD cards, they are specifically for these type of high write cycles in dash cams etc.

http://www.lexar.com/products/memory...S-I-cards.html
Old 07-26-2017, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Darren Parnaby
Great info thanks as just had 2ch blackvue and power magic pro installed and the guy used front fuse box and wrapped around fuse. After week of no issues we now are losing command screen, Bluetooth etc ... very hit and miss if works but seems to be getting worse. Could it be linked to the dashcam install or has anyone else had issues with command etc... we have 2016 W205 C200 auto. Thanks and great info...
On the front fuse box there are two 12mm bolts nearby that he probably grounded to. Check to see that they are tight. I think there is a lead from the fuse box that grounds here because when I loosened it to attach my ground my command and many other systems lost power.
Old 07-26-2017, 12:34 AM
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Has anyone tried using the 5A fuse for the analog clock? It's easily accessible in the front driver's fuse box. It definitely is a constant on circuit.
Old 07-26-2017, 09:18 AM
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would following this guide be appropriate? I want to wire it to the trunk.

Old 07-26-2017, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. J
Has anyone tried using the 5A fuse for the analog clock? It's easily accessible in the front driver's fuse box. It definitely is a constant on circuit.
I actually had my dealer wire an entirely NEW fuse into the fusebox for a switched circuit, and then wired a battery backup (Cell-link) to that for power upon car shut off.

Here's the issue:
These devices that supposedly shut off when the voltage reaches a certain level apparently cause issues in the MBs, over time. I had a device installed that was set to shut off at 12Vs and had an increased number of low voltage warnings, as well as other COMAND issues.

Dealer said that my draw when the car was off was WAY too high... additionally, there were several instances noted by the dealer where the voltage reached 12v's and the unit did not shut off, further draining the battery.

The dealer wired a brand new, fuse to an open location in the driver's fusebox, to the switched rail behind the fusebox. It cost me 2 hours labor + parts. All in all, it was WAY worth it as it is safer than a piggyback and all of my other esoteric electrical anomalies went away.

I also wired my radar detector this way.....

A2A
Old 07-27-2017, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by auditoamg
I actually had my dealer wire an entirely NEW fuse into the fusebox for a switched circuit, and then wired a battery backup (Cell-link) to that for power upon car shut off.

Here's the issue:
These devices that supposedly shut off when the voltage reaches a certain level apparently cause issues in the MBs, over time. I had a device installed that was set to shut off at 12Vs and had an increased number of low voltage warnings, as well as other COMAND issues.

Dealer said that my draw when the car was off was WAY too high... additionally, there were several instances noted by the dealer where the voltage reached 12v's and the unit did not shut off, further draining the battery.

The dealer wired a brand new, fuse to an open location in the driver's fusebox, to the switched rail behind the fusebox. It cost me 2 hours labor + parts. All in all, it was WAY worth it as it is safer than a piggyback and all of my other esoteric electrical anomalies went away.

I also wired my radar detector this way.....

A2A
A current draw is a current draw.
It sounds like your voltage controlled relay device was defective or improperly configured.
Old 07-27-2017, 12:20 AM
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So I went ahead and added a fuse tap to the analog clock fuse socket in the front driver's side fuse box. It worked perfectly so far. No anomalies with the clock or any other electronics. It took me about 15 minutes and one cold beer to complete the instal. Using a plastic trim removal tool made this job much easier than it could have been.

If you are using a fuse tap remember to be selective in the circuit that you choose. It needs to be constant on, but it should also be < 10A. Most fuse taps are not rated any greater than 10A. Make sure to check the rating for the component you use and do not exceed it.

My camera runs the parking mode with a timer instead of a V regulator. I'm playing conservative and shutting it down at 6 hours. I'll try a longer duration once I've confirmed that 6 hrs will not draw down the batt.
Old 07-27-2017, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. J
A current draw is a current draw.
It sounds like your voltage controlled relay device was defective or improperly configured.
Works 10x better now.
And none of those current draw devices have worked as well as this setup and I get 48-72 hours of backup.
Old 07-27-2017, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by auditoamg
I actually had my dealer wire an entirely NEW fuse into the fusebox for a switched circuit, and then wired a battery backup (Cell-link) to that for power upon car shut off.
That's the way to go. Not many people realise that the cell-link battery systems do draw quite a lot of current and have a known tendency to melt stuff like fuse taps or inappropriately gauged wiring. Get a proper independent fuse block if you run those (i.e. don't just tap into existing circuits).

Originally Posted by Mr. J
If you are using a fuse tap remember to be selective in the circuit that you choose. It needs to be constant on, but it should also be < 10A. Most fuse taps are not rated any greater than 10A. Make sure to check the rating for the component you use and do not exceed it.
Not an issue if you're only running the camera. Those things draw milliamps, but other battery backup systems (as per above) can certainly surpass the load on a standard 10A circuit.

My advice is that you should always keep fuse taps usage limited to relay trigger lines or for very low amp devices.
Old 07-28-2017, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DBOC205
That's the way to go. Not many people realise that the cell-link battery systems do draw quite a lot of current and have a known tendency to melt stuff like fuse taps or inappropriately gauged wiring. Get a proper independent fuse block if you run those (i.e. don't just tap into existing circuits).



Not an issue if you're only running the camera. Those things draw milliamps, but other battery backup systems (as per above) can certainly surpass the load on a standard 10A circuit.

My advice is that you should always keep fuse taps usage limited to relay trigger lines or for very low amp devices.
The tap itself can fail if it's plugged into fuse socket that's pulling more amperage than the tap was designed for. I don't think I was totally clear in my post. I'm referring to the type of fuse taps that piggyback on an existing circuit and replace one socket with two.
Old 12-05-2017, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DBOC205
That's the way to go. Not many people realise that the cell-link battery systems do draw quite a lot of current and have a known tendency to melt stuff like fuse taps or inappropriately gauged wiring. Get a proper independent fuse block if you run those (i.e. don't just tap into existing circuits).



Not an issue if you're only running the camera. Those things draw milliamps, but other battery backup systems (as per above) can certainly surpass the load on a standard 10A circuit.

My advice is that you should always keep fuse taps usage limited to relay trigger lines or for very low amp devices.
I plan to install BalckVue DR750S-2CH by following the instruction of DBOC205. The difference is to use Cellink B battery instead of Power Magic Pro. The battery should be tap to ACC circuit, ie. position 445 of the fuse box. Cellink B may draw much current than Power Magic, say 6A. My question is if 445 circuit can supply the current to the battery without any issue. 445 position is supposed to be used for Socket 12V in trunk and where 15A fuse should be put, but it is open at my car because my car does not have the socket. I suppose that 445 circuit can work up to 15A without any issue. If my understanding is wrong, please let me know.

Last edited by junichi; 12-05-2017 at 10:31 PM.
Old 10-27-2018, 09:16 PM
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I'm following the same set-up to install a 2CH blackvue. Which fuses should be used at the fuse tap? The OP has the orange type, are those 5 amps?
Old 11-27-2019, 10:41 AM
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hi did you manage to sort this out ? im having the same issues with what fuse amp to use and where to place it as there is two slots in the fuse tap ?
Old 11-27-2019, 08:58 PM
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Since I installed a 2ch one with a power magic, my battery is constantly flat. Jump start so far hasn't been required but the dashboard displays the "stop the car, keep the engine running" message all the time.
Not sure it's because of the setup or because my battery is 5 years old. Also, I only drive up to 1hr / week, so that's probably not helping my case either. I went to a local auto store and they checked the health of my battery and then told me to just go for a long drive (<1hr), so the battery seems still ok.
Old 11-28-2019, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by pussgalore
Since I installed a 2ch one with a power magic, my battery is constantly flat. Jump start so far hasn't been required but the dashboard displays the "stop the car, keep the engine running" message all the time.
Not sure it's because of the setup or because my battery is 5 years old. Also, I only drive up to 1hr / week, so that's probably not helping my case either. I went to a local auto store and they checked the health of my battery and then told me to just go for a long drive (<1hr), so the battery seems still ok.
oh thats the last thing I would want a flat battery. Is yours auto ? how is your power magic pro settings ?> the 2nd switch up the rest all down? so its on constant when parked ? also what app fuse did you use ?

thanks
Old 11-28-2019, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by newc200
oh thats the last thing I would want a flat battery. Is yours auto ? how is your power magic pro settings ?> the 2nd switch up the rest all down? so its on constant when parked ? also what app fuse did you use ?

thanks
I followed DBOC205's post (#1) exactly the same way. PMP configuration is set to infinity and 12V (everything is ON except the first one). https://www.blackvue.com/power-magic-pro/
Parking mode is on until power drops below 12V. Mine is auto.


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