collision assist inoperative
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 5
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E320
1999 w210 4matic 4 dr sedan 220,000 mi recurring p0410 Solved
Summary: Chkd Pump/fuse/relay cleaned pump leads (restored pump function); Chkd replaced hoses; Checked Shut-off-valve, cleaned (restored valve function). Solved.
I started getting the P0410 about 3 years ago in the winters only. I get emissions done in the summer so I basically ignored it. This year the p0410 came up in the heat of summer and wouldnt go away. In Virginia with this year car we can get passed with up to 3 monitors in an unready state - it was fairly easy to show up with only secondary air system 'not ready.' and pass (we cannot pass with a CEL/MIL illuminated). But I wanted to find the reason so I kept investigating. 1st I found the secondary air pump was not coming on so I tested pump and it worked. Checked fuses and relay and they were good. Cleaned connections twice. First time I cleaned it came on a couple times at cold start then stopped working on cold starts once more. I cleaned the connections again (especially inside the female connectors) and now it came on every time. Still throwing P0410
Next I replaced the easy to reach hoses. No joy. I tested the Shut-Off Valve - Mercedes-Benz (002-140-36-60) using the suck, pinch, blow method and vacuum seemed to open the valves but I was still getting the P0410. I removed the Shut-Off-Valves and checked to see if exhaust gas was making it up to them - yes exhaust gas at valves. At this point I was almost resigned to scam the emissions inspection annually but I decided to clean the Shut-Off-Valves with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. There was a good amount of gunkus in there. I was careful to make sure the valve edges were clean (QTips and dental pick) and that the passage way in the base was clean being careful with the rubber seals. Put back on and no more P0410.
In my case it was corrosion on the Pump leads causing no power to the pump AND Shut-Off-Valve sticking. Seems like the Valve used to only stick in freezing weather then the valves got sticky (probably due to the pump lead corrosion causing the pump to malfunction thus not regularly freeing the valves - causing the valves to get stuck in a seated position even when it was summer). I suspect that when the secondary air pump doesnt come on for a period of time the relatively weak vacuum diaphragm can become stuck especially in high mileage vehicles.
Thanks for the tips on this thread.
Summary: Chkd Pump/fuse/relay cleaned pump leads (restored pump function); Chkd replaced hoses; Checked Shut-off-valve, cleaned (restored valve function). Solved.
I started getting the P0410 about 3 years ago in the winters only. I get emissions done in the summer so I basically ignored it. This year the p0410 came up in the heat of summer and wouldnt go away. In Virginia with this year car we can get passed with up to 3 monitors in an unready state - it was fairly easy to show up with only secondary air system 'not ready.' and pass (we cannot pass with a CEL/MIL illuminated). But I wanted to find the reason so I kept investigating. 1st I found the secondary air pump was not coming on so I tested pump and it worked. Checked fuses and relay and they were good. Cleaned connections twice. First time I cleaned it came on a couple times at cold start then stopped working on cold starts once more. I cleaned the connections again (especially inside the female connectors) and now it came on every time. Still throwing P0410
Next I replaced the easy to reach hoses. No joy. I tested the Shut-Off Valve - Mercedes-Benz (002-140-36-60) using the suck, pinch, blow method and vacuum seemed to open the valves but I was still getting the P0410. I removed the Shut-Off-Valves and checked to see if exhaust gas was making it up to them - yes exhaust gas at valves. At this point I was almost resigned to scam the emissions inspection annually but I decided to clean the Shut-Off-Valves with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. There was a good amount of gunkus in there. I was careful to make sure the valve edges were clean (QTips and dental pick) and that the passage way in the base was clean being careful with the rubber seals. Put back on and no more P0410.
In my case it was corrosion on the Pump leads causing no power to the pump AND Shut-Off-Valve sticking. Seems like the Valve used to only stick in freezing weather then the valves got sticky (probably due to the pump lead corrosion causing the pump to malfunction thus not regularly freeing the valves - causing the valves to get stuck in a seated position even when it was summer). I suspect that when the secondary air pump doesnt come on for a period of time the relatively weak vacuum diaphragm can become stuck especially in high mileage vehicles.
Thanks for the tips on this thread.
Last edited by donwillcox; Aug 6, 2018 at 07:39 PM. Reason: editing
Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150
Likes: 22
From: Boulder CO
2019 C300
In my case it happened multiple times. They even replaced the wiring harness. The limp mode kept reoccurring and they eventually offered me a trade in assist towards another car.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
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CLA250
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 188
From: Toronto
2022 E53 AMG
This has happen to my car numerous times. I lost Collision, Parking and Radar all at once. The first time is happened, I was reversing and it failed and did not let me know how far I was to a wall and column. They have updated the software 2x now and it now happens at random but once I turn the car off it returns or sometimes it returns on its own.
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1
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C300, GL 350 Bluetec, ML 350 Bluetec
Looks like your car went into Limp Home Mode. Search Mercedes Benz Limp Home Mode online to see and understand what it is. It happened to me too and it turned out to be a sensor that needed replacement. Sensor replaced and problem solved. Many other issues can trigger Limp Home Mode.
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
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CLA250
Looks like your car went into Limp Home Mode. Search Mercedes Benz Limp Home Mode online to see and understand what it is. It happened to me too and it turned out to be a sensor that needed replacement. Sensor replaced and problem solved. Many other issues can trigger Limp Home Mode.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1
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C300
I am having the same issue now. I was told it was just a sensor and to bring it in. I am a single female and would rather just trade the car in now that I am reading about your wife and son. Did the dealer ever let you trade it in or consider it as a recall? I do not want to spend money when there is no fix.
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Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,923
Likes: 6,776
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
Failure Msg on IC + Limp Mode
I think you are onto something with that new battery replacement.
I believe the cause to this system fault is the alternator management going crazy on the highway.
[At night the voltage is safely pegged at 13.5V or above - You can manually turn your headlights ON as a "fail safe" workaround!]
After sometime (40+Mn) cruising at highway speeds during daytime, the charging circuit starts deeply draining the main battery. You can take a look for yourself at Battery info while driving with "Workshop Menu"
At some point the whole car voltage is running so really low (below 11.9V or worse) that every other module gets loaded with random faults : ""beep-Beep "Inoperative..." warning
This is caused originally by a disruption of the Can-Bus used by the engine computer to retrieve a stream of battery data. Factory trained experts should work that out in no time.
I don't know of any LI-TSB about it.... ?
Limp
I believe the cause to this system fault is the alternator management going crazy on the highway.
[At night the voltage is safely pegged at 13.5V or above - You can manually turn your headlights ON as a "fail safe" workaround!]
After sometime (40+Mn) cruising at highway speeds during daytime, the charging circuit starts deeply draining the main battery. You can take a look for yourself at Battery info while driving with "Workshop Menu"
At some point the whole car voltage is running so really low (below 11.9V or worse) that every other module gets loaded with random faults : ""beep-Beep "Inoperative..." warning
This is caused originally by a disruption of the Can-Bus used by the engine computer to retrieve a stream of battery data. Factory trained experts should work that out in no time.
I don't know of any LI-TSB about it.... ?
Thanks for the info. Did a search for limp mode-interestingly, while they replaced the connector pin, I also ended up buying a new battery. (read that sometimes that can be a cause for limp mode) In any case, I haven't had any issues with it at this point (knock wood). Will update this should it occur again.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 56
Likes: 14
2003 E320
Had the same problem and it turned out that my battery needed to be replaced only after 4 years.
Anyone who has this problem this guide explains the problem in detail and some suggestions on what to do:
https://www.youcanic.com/wiki/merced...rative-message
Hope it helps
Anyone who has this problem this guide explains the problem in detail and some suggestions on what to do:
https://www.youcanic.com/wiki/merced...rative-message
Hope it helps
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
CLA250
I have not had any more issues with it since the battery replacement/other. My car is a 2014, so the battery replacement coincides with the same amount of time-approximately 4 years. Will continue to monitor and post if there are other issues with it.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 393
Likes: 25
From: S. Ca.
2015 C300, 2015 F-350 Platinum, 1969 Mach 1 428cj, 2007 Roadking
They had to replace our battery at 2 years old. Doesn't say much for their battery choice.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
S600
This is for all the people with car stalling problems that are very dangerous: If this happens to you ever again when you notice that you have no acceleration when pushing on the pedal put your car in neutral then turn off engine and restart.. Do not turn the key all the way off just one click to the left and then while coasting in neutral restart engine and keep your foot off the gas pedal. First you will lose speed a lot slower in neutral and when you restart the engine it is likely to work correctly to escape from harms way. I would recommend practicing this on a road with no traffic, no emergency and without stalling in case of an emergency in the future. I hope this helps...
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
2015 Mercedes C300 - Luxury
This is onto something... I just had battery replaced.
I think you are onto something with that new battery replacement.
I believe the cause to this system fault is the alternator management going crazy on the highway.
[At night the voltage is safely pegged [b]at 13.5V or above - You can manually turn your headlights ON as a "fail safe" workaround!]
After sometime (40+Mn) cruising at highway speeds during daytime, the charging circuit starts deeply draining the main battery. You can take a look for yourself at Battery info while driving with "Workshop Menu"
At some point the whole car voltage is running so really low (below 11.9V or worse) that every other module gets loaded with random faults : ""beep-Beep "Inoperative..." warning
This is caused originally by a disruption of the Can-Bus used by the engine computer to retrieve a stream of battery data. Factory trained experts should work that out in no time.
I don't know of any LI-TSB about it.... ?
Limp
I believe the cause to this system fault is the alternator management going crazy on the highway.
[At night the voltage is safely pegged [b]at 13.5V or above - You can manually turn your headlights ON as a "fail safe" workaround!]
After sometime (40+Mn) cruising at highway speeds during daytime, the charging circuit starts deeply draining the main battery. You can take a look for yourself at Battery info while driving with "Workshop Menu"
At some point the whole car voltage is running so really low (below 11.9V or worse) that every other module gets loaded with random faults : ""beep-Beep "Inoperative..." warning
This is caused originally by a disruption of the Can-Bus used by the engine computer to retrieve a stream of battery data. Factory trained experts should work that out in no time.
I don't know of any LI-TSB about it.... ?
Limp
Hello! - Cross posted, but I see we have the same issues....
I have a c300 4matic 2015 with 91K miles on it. With the exact same issues happening with the "Collision Prevention Assist Plus Inoperative" along with the cruise control inoperable when this message pops up and the traction control symbol is illumined yellow. I then lose all power to the vehicle, it enters a "limp mode" if you call it that. Driving 75 down a highway the car will randomly activate this warning and you lose all control to accelerate. You have to quickly pull over and restart the car, the message then disappears and all is back to normal. *THIS has only started happening once a new battery was installed by MB dealer last week, the day after driving down a freeway and has happened 5-6 times over 7 days. Could you imagine having a family in the car and losing all power in the center of a freeway?
Immediately called MB service advisor (when it first happened) who told me to wash the car as it's winter here in Minnesota. Which seemed valid as sensors can do crazy stuff when dirty... Did that, the next time I started the car drove it for 30 seconds, same issue. Inoperative warnings come up and lose the power to accelerate. There is NO check engine light on.
So I dropped it off at Mercedes, thinking they installed the battery wrong and needs a software update. They came back with many fault codes, however they singled out the Thermostat? P059700. HERE is the KICKER - The tech then sent a $1,000 credit from Mercedes to fix this??! Seems quite odd to me, they didn't give me credit for he $1,600 crankcase value I replaced last summer.. Anyhow They want over 2K to fix the Thermostat, claiming low temperature of cooling system is throwing off codes and reason it's throwing the collision assist inoperative warning and limp mode. BUT with no check engine light? I've read all of the forums containing to this issue and not one has related this to the thermostat..
A week ago the battery was changed and a service tech did an inspection. They found all levels normal and the car in "great" condition.... Now not even a week later they did another inspection today and found my oil to be overfilled, the wanted a b service, wipes replaced and this thermostat to correct the issue??? I have a hard time believing them that the thermostat could cause collision and cruse control warnings..
Any insight would be great. What should I do? Similar issues - sure looks like it!
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
2015 Mercedes C300 - Luxury
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 11,923
Likes: 6,776
From: Silicon Valley
W212 MY'14 M276-3.5NA @75kMi
playing stupid on your dime 😭
They are only trying to make you dissatisfied enough so you get lost with your old car. It's their classic act. Save your ressouces and find yourself a qualified indy shop ASAP that will fix your problems instead of clean your wallet and feed you insanities.
Without getting any hands on your car, I can positively tell you that LOW RUNNING VOLTAGE will cause glitches and countless insignificant faults.
The first step is to fix the issue with the engine computer software that manages the smart alternator voltage. Then all other 40 CAN modules will behave much better without transients spikes. Your $2000 thermostat job will no longer be needed.
As you noted, loosing electric steering assist or powertrain at highway speed can quickly turn into fatality (be curious: go read a few NHTSA reports about MBenz). When you contact MBUSA they'll swear you are the only one.
Practically... get in "workshop menu" and display your Battery Voltage + Current. Normally the battery/alternator voltage should stay between 12.6V and 14.9V while driving. If you see voltage swing below that range take a picture and call your indy mechanic to fix it.
✌️
+++++ EDITS:
It's really uneasy for dealers to fix a complex design problem without decent factory help. These defects are great money makers.
The onboard low-voltage crashes the engine ECU that's supposed to manage networked alternator. It snowballs into deep discharge below 11V.
- Modules that operate on analog values like collision get soft-crashed.
- Tranny quits and goes into a safety mode called limp-mode... a dangerous safety!
- Soft-crashed SAMS contribute a bit of madness by not reliably passing battery sensor data.
The long string of events leading to this chaos can be partially avoided by driving with Headlights_ON (steady 13.5V) and a few other things such as cheap solderless module fixes.
MB delivered much more drama than they intended to manage.
⚡
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Dec 12, 2021 at 01:05 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
2015 Mercedes C300 - Luxury
they are pulling your... leg! Don't let these scam artists change your thermostat, muffler or your spare tire!
They are only trying to make you dissatisfied enough so you get lost with your old car. It's their classic act. Save your ressouces and find yourself a qualified indy shop ASAP that will fix your problems instead of clean your wallet and feed you insanities.
Without getting any hands on your car, I can positively tell you that LOW RUNNING VOLTAGE will cause glitches and countless insignificant faults.
The first step is to fix the issue with the engine computer software that manages the smart alternator voltage. Then all other 40 CAN modules will behave much better without transients spikes. Your $2000 thermostat job will no longer be needed.
As you noted, loosing electric steering assist or powertrain at highway speed can quickly turn into fatality (be curious: go read a few NHTSA reports about MBenz). When you contact MBUSA they'll swear you are the only one.
Practically... get in "workshop menu" and display your Battery Voltage + Current. Normally the battery/alternator voltage should stay between 12.6V and 14.9V while driving. If you see voltage swing below that range take a picture and call your indy mechanic to fix it.
✌️
They are only trying to make you dissatisfied enough so you get lost with your old car. It's their classic act. Save your ressouces and find yourself a qualified indy shop ASAP that will fix your problems instead of clean your wallet and feed you insanities.
Without getting any hands on your car, I can positively tell you that LOW RUNNING VOLTAGE will cause glitches and countless insignificant faults.
The first step is to fix the issue with the engine computer software that manages the smart alternator voltage. Then all other 40 CAN modules will behave much better without transients spikes. Your $2000 thermostat job will no longer be needed.
As you noted, loosing electric steering assist or powertrain at highway speed can quickly turn into fatality (be curious: go read a few NHTSA reports about MBenz). When you contact MBUSA they'll swear you are the only one.
Practically... get in "workshop menu" and display your Battery Voltage + Current. Normally the battery/alternator voltage should stay between 12.6V and 14.9V while driving. If you see voltage swing below that range take a picture and call your indy mechanic to fix it.
✌️
The Mb dealership has had my car for over a week trying to figure this out it. They couldn’t duplicate the problem first day I brought it in so I came and drove it for them. Bingo. Engine into limp mode, now the engine light goes off and the inoperative messages appear. They take back car into shop and I’ve been in a loner for a week now. The foreman thought it was a faulty gas pedal.. but found out that is not it. Then they replaced some “pins” they haven’t had the problem since and foreman has driven 100 miles on my car. Tomorrow the head mechanic at my local Mercedes is dropping it off to me and picking up their loaner and.... not charging me a dime?????? Is Mercedes not telling us something, this whole situation doesn’t add up. Especially as goes for the safety and risk it’s causing! I’ll let you know if they “fixed” it... Mind you my c300 is 42,000 miles past the 50k “warranty”..... however - My significant other won’t even touch the car for fear it’s going to stall on the freeway to limp mode as it has multiple times this month. Insane safety issue. The NHTSA is FULL of these same issues in fact there is over a 100 for the c300 2015 model year alone.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2005 mercades benz clk320
OK so i have had both the issues with fob, as well as lock seat message.
Honestly to me, sounds like maybe these are common issues with these vehicles!
if anyone figures it out please let me know what you did to eliminate any issues! I just got car from tow yard. Which it is actually in good shape considering.
however i can not get it slogged until I get rid of these damn codes. (Need smog to register kn my name. It also doesnt even have a license plate until i can get this all taken care of. So if anyone can help me figure this out i would be eternally greatful!!
🫠🫡🥳
Thank you!
if anyone figures it out please let me know what you did to eliminate any issues! I just got car from tow yard. Which it is actually in good shape considering.
however i can not get it slogged until I get rid of these damn codes. (Need smog to register kn my name. It also doesnt even have a license plate until i can get this all taken care of. So if anyone can help me figure this out i would be eternally greatful!!
🫠🫡🥳Thank you!
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2010e350 Carlsson
gas pedal causes esp error code
Hi,
This is my first post to a forum.
I know, long overdue....
I own several Daimler AG products (12 c63, 10 ML350 and 15 C300)
I did have several issues with my c63 and ML very minor, and the dealer here is Dallas was awesome in addressing them and fixing them.
This post is not about these cars.....
I got the car on 10/25/14 my C300.
Brand new C class. And I have to say I love this car. IMHO best mid size car in the market. Fav futures are LED lights and Speakers. Awesome!
Well at 6/3/15 I had to bring the car because it STOPPED on the highway with my wife and my son in the car. From 80 mph to 10 mph. LIMBO mode, cant accelerate......
Illumined picture of ESP and car drifting and message collision assist inoperative.
CAR CANT MOVE!!!!
Here are the notes from the dealer
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:22): 12449
***WAR***105231***COLLISON ASSIST**** TEST DROVE AND FOUND WITH NO
OTHER CARS AROUND COLLISION ASSIST WILL GO OFF. OUT AT 11:15 12421 IN
AT 11:40 12428. INSTALLED BATTERY CHARGER. SDS TEST FOUND CODE C10C800
There is a warning from the control unit 'COLLISION PREVENTION ASSIST'.
REMOVED FRONT BUMPER AND CHECKED SENSOR AND WIRE HARNESS. CHECK
CONNECTIONS ON ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. ASSEMBLED AND STILL FOUND WILL
RANDOMLY ACTIVATE. REMOVED FRONT BUMPER, REPLACE COLLISION ASSIST
RADAR. ASSEMBLED. WITH SDS COMPLETED SNC CODING AND TEST DROVE. FOUND
NOW WORKING TO MB SPECS.
B CLIENT STATES: WHENEVER THE INOP ASSIST COMES ON CANNOT ACCELERATE
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
Next issue is that car can not unlock with the very smart key
See the video
Next issue is that Collision assist goes off on random
The ESP went off again on the highway and car went into LIMBO mode
CAR CANNOT ACCELERATE THIS WAS ON 9/1
SAME MESSAGE
I called MB USA and spoke with Regional Rep. His name was Andrew.
He was very brief the first time, told me they will review and send rep to see the dealer and review all the notes.
He called 5 days later and rejected my request to buy the car back or issue and replacement.Very short tempered and rude. Still professional but no feeling and nothing to say....Sorry, we will fix it nothing.
I will have an lawyer involved (I am an CPA) that's fairly familiar the law (Was an expert witness few times)
I will keep you posted.
I will take car back to a dealer next week.
Please see the attachments and all the notes
Hopefully nobody gets injured in this case.......
Thanks
SEE THE NOTES
A CLIENT STATES: COLLISON ASSIST INOP
CAUSE: .
540650 ON-BOARD POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGE MAINTAIN
(WHEN CHECKING/ TESTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING)
105231 W08 2.33 0.10 175 1547 15.47 15.47
1 000-905-28-04 RADAR
SENSOR 30200 50500 0 505.00 505.00 505.00
541011 QUICK TEST PERFORM
105231 W08 0.00 0.20 350 3094 30.94 30.94
300641 INDIVIDUAL PARTS OF SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM:
.................... CHECK ACCORDING TO
FAULT CODE
105231 W08 0.00 0.40 700 6188 61.88 61.88
881102 FRONT BUMPER, COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED UNIT
REMOVE/INSTALL
105231 W08 0.00 0.80 1400 12376 123.76 123.76
304230 RIGHT RADAR SENSOR REPLACE (BUMPER
REMOVED)
105231 W08 0.00 0.10 175 1547 15.47 15.47
30200 50500 TPARTS
2800 24752 TLABOR
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:22): 12449
***WAR***105231***COLLISON ASSIST**** TEST DROVE AND FOUND WITH NO
OTHER CARS AROUND COLLISION ASSIST WILL GO OFF. OUT AT 11:15 12421 IN
AT 11:40 12428. INSTALLED BATTERY CHARGER. SDS TEST FOUND CODE C10C800
There is a warning from the control unit 'COLLISION PREVENTION ASSIST'.
REMOVED FRONT BUMPER AND CHECKED SENSOR AND WIRE HARNESS. CHECK
CONNECTIONS ON ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. ASSEMBLED AND STILL FOUND WILL
RANDOMLY ACTIVATE. REMOVED FRONT BUMPER, REPLACE COLLISION ASSIST
RADAR. ASSEMBLED. WITH SDS COMPLETED SNC CODING AND TEST DROVE. FOUND
NOW WORKING TO MB SPECS.
B CLIENT STATES: WHENEVER THE INOP ASSIST COMES ON CANNOT ACCELERATE
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.90 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:23): 12449 SEE LINE A FOR REPAIR
C CLIENT STATES: BEST CONTACT #469-406-4050
BC BEST CONTACT #
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
D BLEMISHES NOTED: 2 OTHERS
BLEM WSA WALK-AROUND
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
E CLIENT STATES: FAB ACCENTIVE TOUCH LOCK NOT WORKING WHEN YOU PUT HAND
ON DOOR HANDLE(SECOND TIME IN FOR ISSUE)
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:23): 12449 WHILE TESTING SYSTEM,
FOUND NO CODES AND LOCK WORKING TO SPECS.
F CLIENT STATES: FINAL TEST DRIVE AFTER VEHICLE SERVICE
TEST FINAL TEST DRIVE AFTER VEHICLE SERVICE
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
G** CLIENT STATES THAT THEY WERE HAVING A PROBLEM REVERSING WHEN
PUSHING PETAL DOWN IT WOULD NOT MOVE ALMOST AS THE PETAL WAS
STUCK
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:25): 12449 NO FAULT CODES. TESTED
ON TEST DRIVES. FOUND OPERATING TO MB SPECS AT THIS TIME.
H** RETAIL TINT COMPLETE
RTINT RETAIL TINT COMPLETE
114 CM 0.00 3.00 4440 35500 355.00 355.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 114,27JUL15 13:59): 12449 INSTALLED FULL WINDOW
TINT TECH #114 3.0 HRS
EST: 0.00 20JUL15 16:53 SA: 104946
This is my first post to a forum.
I know, long overdue....
I own several Daimler AG products (12 c63, 10 ML350 and 15 C300)
I did have several issues with my c63 and ML very minor, and the dealer here is Dallas was awesome in addressing them and fixing them.
This post is not about these cars.....
I got the car on 10/25/14 my C300.
Brand new C class. And I have to say I love this car. IMHO best mid size car in the market. Fav futures are LED lights and Speakers. Awesome!
Well at 6/3/15 I had to bring the car because it STOPPED on the highway with my wife and my son in the car. From 80 mph to 10 mph. LIMBO mode, cant accelerate......
Illumined picture of ESP and car drifting and message collision assist inoperative.
CAR CANT MOVE!!!!
Here are the notes from the dealer
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:22): 12449
***WAR***105231***COLLISON ASSIST**** TEST DROVE AND FOUND WITH NO
OTHER CARS AROUND COLLISION ASSIST WILL GO OFF. OUT AT 11:15 12421 IN
AT 11:40 12428. INSTALLED BATTERY CHARGER. SDS TEST FOUND CODE C10C800
There is a warning from the control unit 'COLLISION PREVENTION ASSIST'.
REMOVED FRONT BUMPER AND CHECKED SENSOR AND WIRE HARNESS. CHECK
CONNECTIONS ON ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. ASSEMBLED AND STILL FOUND WILL
RANDOMLY ACTIVATE. REMOVED FRONT BUMPER, REPLACE COLLISION ASSIST
RADAR. ASSEMBLED. WITH SDS COMPLETED SNC CODING AND TEST DROVE. FOUND
NOW WORKING TO MB SPECS.
B CLIENT STATES: WHENEVER THE INOP ASSIST COMES ON CANNOT ACCELERATE
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
Next issue is that car can not unlock with the very smart key
See the video
Next issue is that Collision assist goes off on random
The ESP went off again on the highway and car went into LIMBO mode
CAR CANNOT ACCELERATE THIS WAS ON 9/1
SAME MESSAGE
I called MB USA and spoke with Regional Rep. His name was Andrew.
He was very brief the first time, told me they will review and send rep to see the dealer and review all the notes.
He called 5 days later and rejected my request to buy the car back or issue and replacement.Very short tempered and rude. Still professional but no feeling and nothing to say....Sorry, we will fix it nothing.
I will have an lawyer involved (I am an CPA) that's fairly familiar the law (Was an expert witness few times)
I will keep you posted.
I will take car back to a dealer next week.
Please see the attachments and all the notes
Hopefully nobody gets injured in this case.......
Thanks
SEE THE NOTES
A CLIENT STATES: COLLISON ASSIST INOP
CAUSE: .
540650 ON-BOARD POWER SUPPLY VOLTAGE MAINTAIN
(WHEN CHECKING/ TESTING AND TROUBLESHOOTING)
105231 W08 2.33 0.10 175 1547 15.47 15.47
1 000-905-28-04 RADAR
SENSOR 30200 50500 0 505.00 505.00 505.00
541011 QUICK TEST PERFORM
105231 W08 0.00 0.20 350 3094 30.94 30.94
300641 INDIVIDUAL PARTS OF SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM:
.................... CHECK ACCORDING TO
FAULT CODE
105231 W08 0.00 0.40 700 6188 61.88 61.88
881102 FRONT BUMPER, COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED UNIT
REMOVE/INSTALL
105231 W08 0.00 0.80 1400 12376 123.76 123.76
304230 RIGHT RADAR SENSOR REPLACE (BUMPER
REMOVED)
105231 W08 0.00 0.10 175 1547 15.47 15.47
30200 50500 TPARTS
2800 24752 TLABOR
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:22): 12449
***WAR***105231***COLLISON ASSIST**** TEST DROVE AND FOUND WITH NO
OTHER CARS AROUND COLLISION ASSIST WILL GO OFF. OUT AT 11:15 12421 IN
AT 11:40 12428. INSTALLED BATTERY CHARGER. SDS TEST FOUND CODE C10C800
There is a warning from the control unit 'COLLISION PREVENTION ASSIST'.
REMOVED FRONT BUMPER AND CHECKED SENSOR AND WIRE HARNESS. CHECK
CONNECTIONS ON ENGINE CONTROL UNIT. ASSEMBLED AND STILL FOUND WILL
RANDOMLY ACTIVATE. REMOVED FRONT BUMPER, REPLACE COLLISION ASSIST
RADAR. ASSEMBLED. WITH SDS COMPLETED SNC CODING AND TEST DROVE. FOUND
NOW WORKING TO MB SPECS.
B CLIENT STATES: WHENEVER THE INOP ASSIST COMES ON CANNOT ACCELERATE
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.90 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:23): 12449 SEE LINE A FOR REPAIR
C CLIENT STATES: BEST CONTACT #469-406-4050
BC BEST CONTACT #
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
D BLEMISHES NOTED: 2 OTHERS
BLEM WSA WALK-AROUND
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
E CLIENT STATES: FAB ACCENTIVE TOUCH LOCK NOT WORKING WHEN YOU PUT HAND
ON DOOR HANDLE(SECOND TIME IN FOR ISSUE)
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:23): 12449 WHILE TESTING SYSTEM,
FOUND NO CODES AND LOCK WORKING TO SPECS.
F CLIENT STATES: FINAL TEST DRIVE AFTER VEHICLE SERVICE
TEST FINAL TEST DRIVE AFTER VEHICLE SERVICE
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
G** CLIENT STATES THAT THEY WERE HAVING A PROBLEM REVERSING WHEN
PUSHING PETAL DOWN IT WOULD NOT MOVE ALMOST AS THE PETAL WAS
STUCK
NC NO WORK COMPLETED AT THIS TIME
105231 INC 0.00 0.00 0 0 0.00 0.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 105231,24JUL15 14:25): 12449 NO FAULT CODES. TESTED
ON TEST DRIVES. FOUND OPERATING TO MB SPECS AT THIS TIME.
H** RETAIL TINT COMPLETE
RTINT RETAIL TINT COMPLETE
114 CM 0.00 3.00 4440 35500 355.00 355.00
VERSION 1 (EMP# 114,27JUL15 13:59): 12449 INSTALLED FULL WINDOW
TINT TECH #114 3.0 HRS
EST: 0.00 20JUL15 16:53 SA: 104946
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2010e350 Carlsson
c300 esp error codes
my c350 did the same thing mb replaced gas pedal unit and everything was fine after that at the time when it did that all I had to do was shut off engine and restarted it and it go back to normal hope this helps
