You'd be a hero to a lot of us who want to purchase this piggy-back tune if you could snap a picture of that hard to reach sensor, and give tips on how to make that connection...

 

Allblack did some good photos of where the sensor goes. You can't hook it up to the wrong one because I tried ( I spent a lot of time overthinking it). You do have to remove the ecu, the plastic case that holds the ecu and a few clips that hold other harness wiring. After you've done it once it's a five minute job. And I also disconnect the battery before I started since you are removing the ecu. Tools used: flathead screwdriver to pry off the clips on the ecu housing, and long skinny BBQ skewer to disconnect the sensor. Another key it to practice/learn how the sensors go together.

Hope that helps you out, just dive in and do it.

 

The MAP sensor loaction is a PITA.. BUT with time and patience can be done..


Many have stated using a long screwdriver through the hole in the IC bracket allows the connecotr to be undone etc, but i found that almost impossible.. (eg BMS)


I ended up using a small torx angle key to undo the MAP sensor mount bolt to the manifold, once the sensor and cable were loose, i could manipulate the sensor position to allow for easier (relatively speaking) access to the connector tab to both remove but equally imprtant locate the piggy back ecu harness conncetor..


Once i had routed the piggy back harness and connected both ends i then juggled the sensor back into loaction and re fixed the torx screw.. IT IS FIDDLY... careful not to drop screw of tools..


Note whilst this is not a 5 minute job, (more like 30 mins) i found it alot easier than trying to do everything through that small round openning in the bracket..


as others have said the removal of the ECU and ECU bracket is required etc.. important to follow instructions re ECU removal and reconnection with the car in an unenergised state.. ie doors closed and locked for min 5 mins etc whilst hood is open etc...


Hope that helps..


I think some are put off trying this.. is not difficult per se, but you do need to be patient and dextrous..

 

Thanks for the tips everyone on how to get that 4th difficult connection made for the piggyback tune.


One last question, would it be easier to access this sensor from under the car...like if the car was on a lift?

 

Nope... Top side....

 

Installed mine today. Better sound from intake. Was worth.

 

Can you post pics or video how to install please and thanks!

 

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Sorry, but I don't own my C300 (2.0L engine) anymore, I now own a C450.

But it's real easy to install a new air filter:

1) With the engine cool, lift up the black plastic engine cover and remove (no tools required).

2) Now looking at the engine from the front of the car, the air filter box is on the left...loosen the clamp at the end of the air "tube". Now loosen the two screws on the outer left holding down the top of the air box (Torx bit required).

3) Lift up the lid of the air box (unhooking the wire loom from the back of the air box lid helps...no tools required), reach in and remove air filter, then install new air filter using the same orientation.

4) Reverse order...tighten everything up, and reinstall the engine cover...20 minutes tops.

 

My lease ends december and i cant decide if i want a c450, c43 or the 17 cla 45 amg. How is the 450?

 

I love my C450...quick, very good brakes, handles incredibly, all with a high level of luxury and a superb interior. The CLA is just too small for my taste.

I thought about waiting for the C43, but I ended up getting such an awesome deal on the C450, I just couldn't say no...plus I've never had good luck with vehicles which come with new transmissions...like the C43 will have.

 

I echo all of MASSC450's sentiments...love this car!

 

Hey, I just finished installing mine (C300 W205) and took pictures. I will put a post together and reply here once I'm done... but first, time for a little drive.

 

I got real air intake systems.

I wanted to help and went into a rant. Read at your own risk
Rant -

I always saw the gas/mileage bump with K&N, but nothing compared to a full blown tune or air intake system.
Since 2004 I have only had turbo cars (Except for a small blip with the 3.5L w204), and the filters help with MPG, sometimes even with torque on restrictive air systems, which the W205 doesn't seem to have (cause you can hear it when you nail the pedal).
Truth be told, I miss that V6 3.5L, so next car for me is not another 2.0L MB (not even a CLA45).
Tune can probably get you 20hp/and 30 lb/ft on the W205 and no warranty.
A "Stage 1" tune is OK if you are pushing Subies or Mazdas, because engine blocks are around 3k to 5k to replace, but not when you have a new Benz.
I called the dealer today, who is very nice and non typical, and cried about lack of response, torque, handling, finish, that the W204 used to have and W205 does not.
Its either a new C43 or a 2014/15 CLS550 guys..no more 4cyl games...I am done with this green version of the Fast and Furious. Turbo 4 Cyl can stay with the econo cars of the world, or stupid attempts by BMW to get in the game.
I jumped out of my modified WRX which was doing 4.1 sec 0-60 ( I did all the work, and have scars to prove it)because I wanted the instant power a V6 gives you, and flee plastic-world, which is a Subaru staple.
Did I mention Audi(VW)? I didn't...exactly!
1.8L T and then 2.0L T very nice and reliable? NO NO NO.

I called MBUSA to complain about the run-flats, interior being beautiful but with cheap materials, and why do I care so much? BMW is spartan, AUDI is worse on that end, The Japanese are getting there, but not really (we have a Lexus and never again).
MB makes cars Clarkson likes, and I completely know why.
Why does MB think people who spend north of $40k on a car look at the pump and shake their head?
BMW is literally offloading their x28 (pick your series) because they do not have the "Ultimate Driving Experience".
What if Ferrari had a "cool" 4 Cyl Turbo, would you go get it?

I apologize for the hijacking.

 

Hey all,

Although I could not find any information on how to install the air filter, it's obviously not rocket science (unless you're working with the 2018 E60s Estate).

Tools & Equipment
- Flathead Screwdriver
- T-25 Torque screwdriver/bit
- K&N 33-3-34
- 10 minutes
- Optional: Gloves, and possibly a paper towel to clean out any debris in intake

Installation

1. Remove Engine Cover (held in place with four rubber grommets). Simply pull with moderate force from each corner. No tools required.




2. Using flathead screwdriver, loosen but do not remove the silver clamp located at the bottom of the intake.

3. Using T-25 torque screwdriver, remove the two screws from the left side as indicated below.



4. Once you have removed the two screw in step 3, above, the lid will swing open slightly and with moderate force you will be able pull the top open enough to remove the air filter and insert the K&N air filter.

Note that the right side of the air box is held down by an open hinge that allows you to pull the top free once swung open.

I could complete this process without removing the pressure sensor located behind the air box.





5. Reverse process.

Note: The most difficult part of the process was setting the two right hinges. I simply lined up the hinges and air box lid, then with moderate pressure (body weight, around 50 lbs), pushed down, and the hinges popped into place, allowing me to proceed.

Hope this helps another newbie out there!

Engine Cover Fastener Location
Fastener Location Under Engine Cover
Airbox Overview
Maximum Work Area

 

Pretty funny at the "more dirt" comments.... Maybe after a million miles there would finally be an adverse effect, but that filter isn't going to cause any issues with "particulates" entering your engine. (At least not in the short amount years you folks keep your cars.)


Thanks for the review OP

 

I’m new in the car scene and I also purchased one of these, I was wondering which did you replace for the air filter, the cabin filter or the one under the hood? Sorry if it’s a stupid question I’m new around here lol

 

Engine air filter, on the engine air intake system adjacent to the ECU.


Cabin filter is at the rear RHS of the engine bay toward the screen.


As an aside the factory filter element is not a constraint to the intake and therefore engine performance, and there has yet to be an independent dyno showing any difference outside of equipment measureable tolerance.


This is for example different tot the A45 which has a notable step (throttle) in the intake system immediately after its filter element which does display a measurable improvement after modification... but this is more o do with the intake capacity and profile than the material of the filter element..

 

I’m new and I’ve been trying to figure out how to take off the piece for my filter to switch it, how’d you guys do it? I unscrewed the 2 front bolts but don’t know what else to do. Thanks!

 

How much difference does this make to the sound of the engine. I know it won't change exhaust much but do you get a induction sound from the Engine? And can you hear the blow off valve?

 

likely wont notice it at all

 

Really? That stinks. When I changed the filter in my cla250 it made a massive sound difference.

 

Ditto.

 

Does it give u louder turbo sou d?

 

Got louder turbo sound?