C43_AMG_NJ

I found a wheel company called Signaturewheels running a special for $2999.00 and they will custom make my rim, I want to know if these will fit without any issues or spacers. rims are also super light he should me a 19X11 that was only 21lbs, so mine will be under 20. Think the front may stick out about 5mm.

19x8.5 ET30 with 225/40/19
19x10 ET48 with 265/35/19
For W205 sedan

2toneblown

Heres a little teaser. Out of town for a few weeks then will get some rubber on these guys and some real pics

BMWMB71

Those wheels will fit perfectly without spacers, and will not stick out!
Please post pics i you have installed your wheels.

C43_AMG_NJ

Thank you they came back to me with another option for 20's so now I am stuck don't know if these 20's will cause any issues.

20x8.5 ET31 245/30/20
20x10 ET50 275/30/20

C43_AMG_NJ

Mo your running those rims on these specs with no spacers can you take a picture of the front to see how far they stick out? Thanks

Fronts: 20x8.5 offset:+32; 245/30/20
Rears: 20x10 offset: +55; 275/30/20


I have someone making me rims with these specs
Fronts: 20x8.5 offset:+31; 245/30/20
Rears: 20x10 offset: +55; 275/30/20

ragebkd

I am hoping I can find an answer here. I have a 2016 C450 and I am trying to find wheels. I found some on various sites but I am getting a little confused because some sites state "gauranteed fitment" and will have staggered options and other sites state the same thing for non staggered, but then won't gaurantee a fitment if they are staggered.

On 2 sites I show 2 fitments gauranteed for the same kind of wheels in this configuration:
19x8.5 F
19x9.5 R

and
19x 8.5 F&R

The site that guarantees fitment on the same size all around is carid.com which I have bought rims from many times but they won't guarantee staggered for some reason. Is there any benefit to going with the same size all around or is that a mistake on their end?

BMWMB71

They also will fit perfectly without spacers.
My tyres in front are 235/35/20

BMWMB71

What are the ET-values of these wheels?

mo11

sorry for the late reply. Those specs you have should be fine.

A5HLEY2

I had 19" AMG reps on my C400. They are still for sale.
$1,500CAD or $1,150USD with Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires

https://mbworld.org/forums/wheels-ti...400-450-a.html

sean1.8t

Any wheel fitment guru's out there help a brotha out?

Will I have any issues on my c450 with a front rim that is 19x8.5" with a ET45? They're coming off a c400 but I know that our AMG suspension upgrade makes fitment a nightmare so will it work fine or will I need spacers? And if so, how much, 10mm?

sterz85

You'll probably need a 10mm spacer.

Link to someone running a similar setup (ET42 vs your ET45) -https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-...ml#post7039044

BMWMB71

10mm spacer will not be enough, because the wheel will poke out. If you want the wheel stay inside the wheelarches, you need min. 13mm spacers. ET32 is the max the wheelarches can have with wheels 8.5j width. ET30 is the best.

sterz85

What spacers will I need to have the rear stock 19s be flush? There's such a big gap of empty space between the stock rear wheels and the wheelarches

W205C43AMGCoupe

Okay guys I found a wheel offering i like but am stuck between a few setup options and hoping someone can help. Would either of these setups fit a c43 coupe lowered on H&R and would spacers be needed with either:


Front: 8.5x19 ET options 35 or 45
Rear: 9.5x19 ET optios 35, 45 or 57

Can someone help me choose the proper ET values and what size spacers would be needed if any?

Mike5215

I think you're going in the wrong direction. The larger the spacer, the lower the offset. The lower the offset, the more the wheel moves outward toward the fender lip. An effective ET of 30mm puts the wheel 2mm closer to the fender than a 32mm. To move the wheel inward you'd need to increase the offset, and that can't be achieved with a spacer.

Mike5215

I'll do you one better and tell you how to do your own calculations. (These are general fitment basics. Other owners of C450s with hard numbers are your best source of real world fitment issues. I know the C450 is a handful up front.)

Remember these basic concepts:

The lower the offset the more the wheel pokes out. If there's one thing that confuses people about offset this is it.

AND

Adding spacers reduces offset by the thickness of the spacer. If there's another thing that confuses people it's this, because it's counterintuitive that adding something to a number reduces the number. A 35mm wheel with a 10mm spacer has a 25mm offset, not a 45.

You can never add more offset to a wheel with a spacer. You can only reduce it.

A millimeter is a very tiny unit of measurement. There are 25 of them in an inch.

I believe the factory C450 offsets are 33mm front and 52mm rear. The 35mm front/45mm rear option would get you closest to stock. The 2mm difference up front is nothing. The rears will move 7mm out (less than 1/2 inch) and there should be plenty of clearance. (The 57mm wheel would be further tucked in by 5mm, so I'd skip that option.)

Remember that if your aftermarket wheel is wider you need to figure that in. A 1" wider wheel adds 1/2" to the outside edge of the tire and 1/2" to the inner edge. (1/2" = 12mm).

If you take a tape to your existing wheel and measure the distance from the top of the outside edge of the tire to the inner fender lip, that's how much room you have to work with.

If it's 2" for example you can reduce offset by as much 50mm (1"= 25mm).

The wider rim eats up 12mm of that. 50-12= 38mm of space available on the outside edge of the tire to reduce offset and bring the wheel further out.

Reducing the offset number moves the wheel further out. Adding spacers reduces offset. More literally equals less.

You reduce offset in two ways. Buy a wheel with a lower offset. Or add a spacer to push the wheel further out (which effectively results in a lower offset).

For example, if your OEM offset is 45mm, and you buy a 35mm wheel, it sits 10mm further out than stock. If you keep your OEM wheel and add a 10mm spacer, it also sits 10mm further out than stock. Both have the exact same effective offset.

Generally try to avoid spacers by instead using wheels that are built with the desired offset. Sometimes spacers are unavoidable. They may be necessary to buy a little extra brake clearance. Try to use the thinnest ones possible. Adding spacers will also require new, longer lug bolts.

So in your case, presuming I have the right OEM offsets, and presuming the new wheel design clears the calipers, the calculation would go like this:

Front OEM offset is 33mm.
The new wheel is higher at 35mm.
The new wheel moves 2mm [iinward, closer to the shock tower.
The new rim is 1" wider.
The new rim moves 1/2" closer to the shock tower, as well as 1/2" closer to the fender lip.
You need essentially an extra 1/2" of space between your OEM front and the shock tower for your new wheels, and an extra half inch between the outside edge and the fender lip. If you make those measurements and you're within those margins, your new 35mm fronts will fit.

Rear offset is 52mm
The new wheel is lower at 45mm
The new wheel sits 7mm further out (52-45)
7mm is roughly 1/4"
The new wheel is 1" wider
The new wider wheel sits 1/2" further out.
1/2" + 1/4" = 3/4 inch
If you have at least 3/4 of an inch between your existing wheel and your fender, your new 45mm rears will fit.

Now let's say you want to go closer to flush on the rears. Your new wheels have an optional lower offset of 35mm. Will those fit? Well, they'd sit 17mm further out than stock (52-35), plus the extra inch of width adds 1/2". 17mm is roughly 3/4 of an inch. 3/4 + 1/2 = 1 1/4". So if you have at least 1 1/4" clearance between your existing wheel and fender lip, you can run the more aggressive 35mm rear safely.

Once you understand the basic concept of offset you can play around with all kinds of combinations to get exactly the look you're going for.

W205C43AMGCoupe

Wow-this is fantastic. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain all of this. The factory specs on the 18" wheels for the c43 i'm currently using are 7.5x18 ET33
8.5x18 ET49

So for the new wheels in the front I would ideally want an offset higher than 35 or 45 ET option offered. And by higher that would actually be a lower number such as 30 or 25-correct? Assuming that correct, I could also go with a narrower wheel such as a 8 vs 8.5 in the front in which case the ET wouldn't need to be as high. Hope I got that right?

Mike5215

The C450/43 has been a challenge to owners trying to go with aftermarket wheels. I would recommend only using fitments that other members have had actual success with.

For your calculations a higher offset (relative to OEM) moves the wheel inward. A lower offset pushes the wheel outward. Generally, a wheel that is pushed outward looks better. When you're doing aftermarket wheels you're looking to either hug the factory offsets, keeping the wheel position stock but changing the look of the wheel itself, or going more aggressive by nudging the wheels outward, improving the stance as well as the look of the wheel itself. You'd almost never want to go with a higher offset that tucks the wheel in more.

Lower offset number = Poke
Higher offset number = Suck

"Offset" refers to the position of the wheel's hub mounting surface relative to the wheel's centerline. If you had an 8" wide wheel, the centerline is at 4". If your wheel had its hub mounting surface (the back of the wheel where it meets the car's hub) at exactly 4", your wheel would have an offset of zero.

The offset number represents the distance of the wheel's hub mounting surface surface from the wheel's centerline. The further the mounting surface is placed toward the front of the wheel, the higher the offset. A wheel with a 45mm offset has a mounting surface that is 45mm away from the centerline and closer to the front.

The more you move the mounting surface closer to the front of the wheel, the more the wheel is drawn inward on the car. So if your car's OEM offset was 45mm and you chose a 35mm wheel, that moves the hub mounting surface closer by 10mm relative to the centerline, which causes the wheel to be drawn in less. That's referred to as "poke".

On your 7.5" fronts at an OEM offset of 33mm, going to an 8.5" will add 12mm to the width on each side of the wheel. So 12mm closer to the shock tower on the backside, and to the fender lip on the front.

The 35mm wheel will also sit 2mm closer to the shock tower. It's such a small difference it's essentially like running an OEM offset. The width is the only variable here. So if there's at least 14mm (12mm of extra width plus 2mm of extra offset) of clearance between the wheel and the shock tower (or any suspension bits) the 35mm wheel should work. Again, rely on the experience of the guys on here.

On the rears, going from a 49mm to a 45mm puts you at a minimal 4mm of poke. Add the 12mm of extra width and you'd need 16mm of clearance. (Around 3/4"). Should be fine.

BMWMB71

You're right. you need spacers to min. ET32, because else the wheels will touch the suspension arm. If you take spacers to 29mm and less, the wheels will poke out.

W205C43AMGCoupe

Thanks again guys. So just to confirm: if I go with 19x8.5 ET 35 front with a 3mm spacer that will bring my ET to 32. And 19x9.5 ET 45 Rear with no spacers this setup should fit?

Mike5215

The math is right.

BMWMB71

Yes.
Please post some pics if the wheels are installed.

Mike5215

Verify that front fitment with someone who's done aftermarket wheels on a 450 before ordering though.

W205C43AMGCoupe

I'm going to pull the trigger on these and see how it works out, worse come to worse I'll need a larger spacer. I'll post pics once installed. For the 3mm spacer would that require longer wheel bolts? Are people still using H&R spacers? I saw a lot of spacers didn't work with this platform.