brake dust/rust on side of car
#1
brake dust/rust on side of car
Noticed I'm getting lots of "freckles" of brake rust on the side of my car, anyone else notice this? Whats the best product to get it off? I can get most of one freckle off with my finger but really need to pick at it to get it all. Having a white car makes them way more noticeable.
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by Jimdeez
Noticed I'm getting lots of "freckles" of brake rust on the side of my car, anyone else notice this? Whats the best product to get it off? I can get most of one freckle off with my finger but really need to pick at it to get it all. Having a white car makes them way more noticeable.
I use a Zaino clay bar and their detailing spray, but any automotive paint clay will work.
#3
Senior Member
Clay bar or a chemical product like TRIX Carpro Tar and Iron Remover... The latter is a pretty fantastic product - disolves iron (brake dust) and tar with no rubbing... Just spray on, agitate, leave for 5-7 minutes and wipe off/rinse. Pretty amazing stuff... Works great on white cars especially since those freckles really stand out on white...
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah, I usually try clay first since it doesn't strip off the polish. With Zaino Polish it can be layered and I usually get five or six layers on when the weather is nice so it holds up thru the Florida summers. Hate to mess that up.
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by nvestr
Clay will strip off anything in its way... you should always reseal or wax after claying as most of the protection will be gone.
If after claying the area and wiping it dry, water no longer beads on the area, apply more wax.
Last edited by Mike5215; 03-29-2016 at 05:53 PM.
#7
Super Member
Wash the car (no touch)
Dry the car (leaf blower or waffle towels laid onto the vehicle, do not rub)
CarPro Iron-X the whole car wheels and glass.. spray leave for a few minutes, then gentlly rub with sponge leave a few more minutes.
Rinse extensively with alot of water..
Then clay (nanoscrub is alot quicker than traditional clay especially for panels.. ) trad clay for small area's.. lots of lube..
Now wash the car again... (two bucket method)
Your paint is clean in theory.. inspect it.. address any remaining issues (tar bugs)..
Now is the time to polish / corrcet the car.. pefeably with DA, to adress anu swirls or marring on the paint..
Either wash car gain after polish or use IPA or eraser to remove polish reisude and any polish dust..
Now add a sealant (man made wax).. two coats done thin will ensure even coverage..
Then if you like top with a traditional canuba wax for gloss / depth..
Or go with a permanent (12-24month) paint sealant if you are not a car detailing fan..
Wheels if painted alloys with clear coat are treated the same way as the paint on body...
iron-x WILL SPED UP CLAYING NOTABLY.. CLAYING WILL ONLY TAKE OFF APRTICLES ON OR IN THE SURFACE.. (IE SHAVE THEM) IRON X WILL DISSOLVE THE IRON PARTICLES AND THEN RINSE OUT OF THE PAINT..
This only need be done once a ear or sp depending on your environment and the vehicles storage.. the ewash should be weekly and the wax monly if your keen 3 monthly if your vigilant, 6 monthly if your looking to minimise.. waxes and sealants have varied durablity..
Go to Autogeeksonline for tutorials and product advice.. its a very good resource..
Dry the car (leaf blower or waffle towels laid onto the vehicle, do not rub)
CarPro Iron-X the whole car wheels and glass.. spray leave for a few minutes, then gentlly rub with sponge leave a few more minutes.
Rinse extensively with alot of water..
Then clay (nanoscrub is alot quicker than traditional clay especially for panels.. ) trad clay for small area's.. lots of lube..
Now wash the car again... (two bucket method)
Your paint is clean in theory.. inspect it.. address any remaining issues (tar bugs)..
Now is the time to polish / corrcet the car.. pefeably with DA, to adress anu swirls or marring on the paint..
Either wash car gain after polish or use IPA or eraser to remove polish reisude and any polish dust..
Now add a sealant (man made wax).. two coats done thin will ensure even coverage..
Then if you like top with a traditional canuba wax for gloss / depth..
Or go with a permanent (12-24month) paint sealant if you are not a car detailing fan..
Wheels if painted alloys with clear coat are treated the same way as the paint on body...
iron-x WILL SPED UP CLAYING NOTABLY.. CLAYING WILL ONLY TAKE OFF APRTICLES ON OR IN THE SURFACE.. (IE SHAVE THEM) IRON X WILL DISSOLVE THE IRON PARTICLES AND THEN RINSE OUT OF THE PAINT..
This only need be done once a ear or sp depending on your environment and the vehicles storage.. the ewash should be weekly and the wax monly if your keen 3 monthly if your vigilant, 6 monthly if your looking to minimise.. waxes and sealants have varied durablity..
Go to Autogeeksonline for tutorials and product advice.. its a very good resource..
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#9
Bought some bug/tar/brake dust remover and it worked decent. Still had to scrub decently in some spots but worked, didn't leave on very long though. Test it our properly tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies
Thanks for the replies