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Hi, I was reading this topic for several days, it is absolutely great and I’ve found a lot of useful features and information.
My car is W212, T model 2010, some people here recommend to replace the front speakers with Infinity Kappa component 60.9cs, and rear with Infinity 6032si. What should I also install? Can they work correctly without installing amplifier? And the main question: I couldn’t find front speakers anywhere in Europe, and I’ve found only used rear speakers 6022 for 100$ in US. Can I use the other updated model of speakers that I can find in Europe? Who can help?
These speakers (HK) are sold on eBay Europe for my car, just for helping(size and what can be used like).
Take safe in this pandemic period of time.
Last edited by Dr-Radwan; May 6, 2020 at 04:08 AM.
Don't feel bad. I'm still tuning the Audison system on a weekly basis. It's getting better though. Almost impossible to get the midbass right in a car with no actual woofers. If I ever meet the genius who came up with Frontbass I'm going to kick him right in his Frontballs.
Are you using an iPhone as a source? I found a really cool DSP app you might like.
Anyone know how to eliminate bass "roll off" from the OEM radio?
Strange, I have Burmester and never experienced bass roll off, although thats after the factory amp.
Check out audiocontrol products, they have accubass processing for correction of bass roll off.
Strange, I have Burmester and never experienced bass roll off, although thats after the factory amp.
Check out audiocontrol products, they have accubass processing for correction of bass roll off.
Hi benzdude,
Thanks for your answer.
Mine doesn't have burmeister audio. I installed a Mosconi DSP, amplifiers, components and subs so virtually no stock sound system except for head unit. Roll off bass is very noticeable.
I had an audio control lc1 but had an awfull electrical noise and DSP is way better controlling sound.
How can this not be an option that can be disabled from the radio! Maybe through software update
I made lots of changes. Couldn't get that perfect setup. Here's the one closest to that. However, check if the input EQ is modified when you load the file. I'm not sure that it works, and that's the most important part. I also had to modify the standard inputs and Audio 20 settings to remove the distortions I got.
I think the signal coming out of the HU is so bad that it needs heavy mods to get the amp to work properly. Apart from the input EQ mods, I had to put the HU EQ to -10,-10,-10. It's only then that I got rid of the distortion that appears near 300Hz.
The dips, as you call them, were made by the software to compensate for the terrible signal coming out of the HU. Mercedes guys had to do heavy EQ mods to get the 1$ speakers to sound like 10$ ones (their guideline was - they still sound like crap, but most of the people won't notice).
Was the distortion there before you removed the stock audio 20 subwoofer? Perhaps with the lack of impedance you've created by removing the subwoofer resistance (bridged across the front speakers) the audio 20 HU is now driving the front speakers (even if they're just hooked up to a DSP) too hard and therefore distorting?
I know I’m late to the party based on the dates of these comments, but I’m about to upgrade a MB C300 sedan base sound system, and I have just recently read through most of this thread. I really like what you @Vladarh came up with for a solution…mostly because it’s basically plug & play. I was just wondering if you ever figured out the distortion problems you were experiencing, and if they were really that significant or were you just trying to get it perfect. Also, why did you choose the match 5 channel amp vs. the 8 channel amp? If you had it to do over would you choose a different option entirely?
Last edited by Steamer6; Jan 19, 2023 at 10:38 PM.
Result = excellent. HUGE improvement and all the issues with the muddy bass are gone.
The only additional improvement possible would be the addition of full sized subwoofers instead of the Left and right footwell subwoofers, and then utilsing those 6 inch foot well speakers as mid bass , which can be manipulated with the amplifier/DSP's software, but this would involve either a custom solution to the trunk/boot or an off the shelf solution - either of which would not be stealth . The above solution is a simple speaker and amplifier upgrade and is completely stealth, and leaves the boot/trunk space untouched. And the sound is very very good
Location Sydney, Australia
Last edited by Ultan Mooney; Dec 9, 2023 at 06:45 PM.
I went with infinity kappa perfects for all mids and highs I had to remove the trim on the doors and mount them to door panel on that side for clearance. I also use a amp to convert the front subs to midrange speakers front doors and floor speakers are now on 2k watts and 2 12s on 3k watts in trunk .
I have the Burmester upgrade in my car. I love how it sounds and of course I leave my bass level at 10 all the time. I even Boost it when I'm playing BT music but from my experience, the speakers in the footwell are weak. First my driver side sub went and purchase a new one from Mercedes and installed it myself. I was not thinking of upgrade my speaks at the time but everything was working fine again. Then my passenger side sub went also... ps when I say went' it actually started to fail and sounds like it was cracking.
I have been reading the forum for some time and started look around on the internet and saw a video of ETON subs replacing Burmester subs. They are made in German and they do not have a dealer in Canada, where I'm located. I told myself that Burmester can't handle my music and they way I like to play it, so I bit the bullet and messaged ETON and they redirected to a dealer in California who was amazing.
I asked for a deal and they gave me one and I ordered my ETON subs. I installed them myself and since I already had the experience, I can tell you the driver side carpet is the hardest to get back in.
Well, now I have the ETON Subs installed and I'm so happy because I now longer have to set my bass at Max as these subs hit HARD. I was thinking of Focal but they are produces the same way as the Burmester subs = paper woofer style whereas the ETONS are have a polyfiber woofer design which allows each sub to run at 2 ohms and pump out 200 Watts per sub which from the Stock Burmester, there is no comparison. ETON was the right way to go, plug and play and listen to the hard hitting bass.
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