Smoothie

I'm looking for a set of 19" wheels for my '15 c300 sport. I like the Vossen vfs2's, except for the price.

I found these reps, but am unsure on fitment.

Fronts
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-alzor-pa...four/084-3kt1/

Rears
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-alzor-pa...four/084-1kt1/

Would these fit? Any concerns?
Thanks!!!

Mike5215

This is a square set up (all rims equal width) and your Sport has a staggered set up. (7.5" front, 8.5" rear). You'll be able to re-use your rear tires but you'd want new wider fronts (same size as the current rears) or your fronts will be stretched 1". Square set ups are nice since you can rotate tires and get more life out of them.

At a 35mm offset they'll all push out toward the fender lip more than OEM. The fronts OEM are 44mm, so 9mm closer to the fender lip for the rim itself, and 1" wider on the fronts will push the wheel an additional 1/2" closer (12.5 mm). There should be plenty of clearance up front but they will look more aggressive.

The rears have an OEM offset of 56mm, so 21mm closer to the fender lip. There should be enough clearance. If you put a tape on the space between the outside edge of the tire and the inside edge of the fender lip you'd need a gap of at least 1".

Smoothie

To clarify, I have the 18" sport rims currently. My other option is a set of 19" multispoke rep rims. How would the rims I posted compare to the 19" multispokes?

So they will fit, and be pushed out from oem. Will it look ok? I don't want them sticking out to the fender.

Mike5215

Well if you go 18" you can at least keep two of your four existing tires. With 19" obviously you'd need a full set. I happen to think the very short sidewall height on the OEM 19" wheels result in an excessively stiff ride. Personally I'd stick with the 18", although the 19" look better.

To visualize the 35mm fitment, your fronts will come out about 1/3 of an inch from where they are now, plus 1/2" for the increased tire width. That's probably not noticeable. The rears will come out around 1", also not very noticeable. I think they'd look good on the car. If you want to stay closer to factory offsets, see if the wheels are also available in high (45mm) offsets, but I'd go with the 35mm version.

Mike5215

Sorry, I missed the 2nd link. So if they'll break up a set and sell them staggered, the rears will be 5mm less outward, but the tire itself will still be a half inch more. Still a safe fitment. You can rotate the existing rears to the new fronts and just buy new rears, but you can't rotate them like a square set up.

andylaidb9

There's a fitment option which you can choose your car to see if it fits.
It says it doesn't fit 2015 C300. They will stick out of the fender.

I'm currently running
19"x8.5J ET40 front
19"x9.5J ET50 rear
It's pretty much aligned with the fender, any lower offset than this will stick out (I think)

Mike5215

The EBay fitment guides are all FUBAR. Here's what you need to know:

-All MB passenger cars share the same bolt pattern and hub bore. What varies are offsets, widths, and of course face types.

-Any wheel for the following cars will also fit a 205 C Class (but not the C43/450):

2000-2013 S350, S420, S400, S550, S600, S55, S63, S65, CL500, CL63, CL65, W204 C250, C300, C63.

They all shared a 44mm offset, which happens to be a good choice for a 205 C

Often EBay vendors will list a bunch of models the wheels are "for" including yours, but the fitment will be a generic 35mm offset or a generic 45mm offset. The 45mm wheels are going to be your best bet.

To calculate the change in wheel position when using lower offset wheels, take the OEM offset and deduct the new wheel offset (44mm OEM - 35mm = 9mm. 25mm = 1", so 9mm is about 1/3 inch.) Verify you have at least 1/3" gap between the outer edge of the tire and the inner lip of the fender).

The 205 Sport has 44mm fronts and 56mm rears, so a set of 45's are basically an OEM fitment up front, and 11mm on the rear.

A set of 35's:
45-35= 10mm front variance
56-35= 21mm rear variance

That's an aggressive fitment but still safe at OEM wheel widths. If you go wider, remember to add 1/2 the extra width of the new wheel to the offset variance when checking clearance.

Personally, I keep my fronts at the OEM offset. Mercedes front suspensions are sensitive to offset. For that same reason I avoid spacers up front. Rears, I ran 20mm spacers on the rears of my S550. Looked great and no vibration issues.

andylaidb9

I meant the one comes from ecstuning website tho.

Mike5215

On an aftermarket wheel, just look for the correct (66.6) hub bore, and offset. I'd avoid larger center bores that require hub rings.

Smoothie

They do sell a staggered set..
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-alzor-pa...four/084-1kt2/

I assume I should go with oem sized 19" tires? I don't want the stretched look. Just oem.

Do I need different lug bolts, or will the ones that came with my 18's fit.
Thanks again.

Mike5215

Yeah, new bolts and new tires. Don't use the OEM 19" numbers. They'll be stretched. (I think the OEM are 7.5 front, 8.5 rear. Your new wheels are 8.5 front, 9.5 rear). You'd add as close as you can get to 25mm of tread section width (the first number in the tire size). That in turn will affect the sidewall height (the second number) which is a ratio of the first.

(235 40/19 for example is a tire with a 235mm tread width, and a sidewall height that's 40% of 235, which would be 94mm. If you take the tread width out 25mm, which is the extra inch, to 260mm, 40% of that is a 104mm sidewall height. If you want to maintain the original rolling diameter of the wheel, you might need to step down the sidewall ratio. If you were at 40 in the old width, going to a 35 ratio puts you closer, at 91mm of sidewall.

You can also play loose with that extra 25mm of width, and just add 15 or 20. The stretch at that point is inconsequential. The goal is to get the combo that avoids a big stretch ( or a ballooned sidewall going the other way) while getting a sidewall ratio that keeps the OEM rolling diameter (both for appearance and fit speedometer accuracy)

You'll need a fresh set of lug bolts (almost no aftermarket wheels use a Mercedes lug seat). Your TPMS will transfer. The car is going to look great!

Smoothie

Thanks Mike,

Doing some research, it seems that the following size tires would be best.

19x8.5- 235/40/19
19x9.5- 265/35/19

The only issue I've found is the limited tire options in this tire combo.
What tire size are you guys running with a 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 setup?

Also, where's the best place to get some proper fitting lug bolts with locks.
Thanks!

morlim

Just to trying to help...
My current 19" setup on a C220 W205 is:

8,5J Et42 with 225/40 R19
9,5J ET40 with 255/35 R19

Smoothie

^^ Thanks!
Any more pics? Most pics that I've seen in that tire size look too stretched to me, although the one you posted looks good.

morlim

For me it's perfect because completely protect the rim (i was used to have stretched tyres on my last car with 245/35 tyre in a 10J wheel....that was too much stretch)

Mike5215

The wheel vendor should have the correct bolts.

Hapa88

As I've stated before, be careful when dealing with aftermarket wheel sizing if you're not completely familiar with how the dimensions affect the wheel placement. Mike5215 gives a great recommendation for half of the equation. If you're only worried about tire placement relative to the centerline of the wheel, then that's all you need to worry about.

When it becomes an issue is if you're concerned about wheel placement relative to being "flush with the fender".
So while the stock 19x7.5 +44 OEM wheel and an aftermarket 19x8.5 +45 wheel's position relative to the center line of the wheel is only off by 1mm, the actual position relative to the fender is a difference of 12mm on the 19x8.5" wheel (with the 8.5" being much closer to the fender).
Use this calculator to help you:
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator#
Keep in mind that you should also consider changing the tire sizes as well, if you don't want a stretched look or exposed rim lips.

Mike5215

Right, which is why I stated:

"If you go wider, remember to add 1/2 the extra width of the new wheel to the offset variance when checking clearance"


So if the aftermarket wheel is 1" (25.4mm) wider than OEM, and the offset is 1mm higher:

25.4mm divided by 2 = 12.7mm

12.7mm - 1mm = 11.7mm (less than 1/2")closer to the fender. I'm not sure 1/2" is "much closer to the fender" for the OP's fitment, but I did tell him how to factor it in none the less.

There are a couple of reasons I don't link out every response to a wheel fitment question to the 1010 calculator. First, for someone with no experience with wheel fitment stuff, the site has a bit of a learning curve.

Second, I'd rather that forum members develop an understanding of what the various terminology and metrics actually mean, so they can learn to do their own calculations and more importantly understand the concepts behind them.

I know from my own experience that it took someone taking the time to explain how wheel offsets work, and how treadwidth/sidewall ratios work, rather than doing the calculations for me, for me to "get it".

Give a man a fish and he'll eat for the day. Teach a man to fish and he'll eat for a lifetime. I'm teaching men to fish, metaphorically speaking.

Smoothie

Thanks guys,
I think I'm starting to understand wheel width and offset.

By just going from a 7.5" wheel to an 8.5", keeping the offsets the same at +45 will have my wheel 12.7mm closer to the fender.

But since I'm also going from an offset of 45, to 35 upfront, the wheel will be now a total of 23mm closer to the fender.

Doing the same for the rears, going from 8.5 to 9.5, and going from 56mm offset to 40mm, the rears will be 29mm closer to the fender.

Did I do that right?
This set has the same rear specs as 'morlim's' rear wheels, and be slightly closer to the fender than his fronts, as posted above.

morlim, do your front or rears poke out past the fender? It looks flush, but hard to tell. I would likely go 235/40 up frton and 265/35 for the rears.

Mike5215

Close. Since you're actually going 1mm higher (45 vs 44mm) you'd subtract the 1mm difference rather than add it. So you'd be at 11.7mm. If you're checking clearance and going to an offset that's lower than OEM you'd add. If it's more you'd subtract, which intuitively seems like it would be the exact opposite.

The 265 has a 10" tread block width. OEM is 255 so you're adding 10mm on a 1" wider rim. I think that should be fine.

morlim

The rear it's completely at the limit...with 265 i think you can have rubbing issues with more weight at the rear (i don't know if you have Airmatic like i have).
At the front it can take a lower ET since it's not flushing like the rear.

Mike5215

You're right. Forgot his rears would be 40mm vs 45. Can you take a pic of the rear wheel and quarter panel side view with AirMatic on Sport+? There's also some negative camber when the suspension compresses (the top of the wheel tilts inward. The lower you go the more it tilts) that adds a little clearance.

Smoothie

The fronts are going from oe 45mm offset to 35mm.
The rears are going from oe 56, to 40mm.
Are my calculations correct?

Morlim, I'm on airmatic too, are the pics in comfort or sport?
Thanks.

Mike5215

You're calcs are correct but I just double checked my 18" rear and the offset is actually 49mm, so a little more clearance. Sorry about that.

morlim

Sorry for the late reply.

Some more photos of the wheels and tyres: