I've had my 2015 C300 since May and although I love to drive it, the Burmester system lacks proper bass.

Front Bass is **** and even with Surround ON and set to ALL four seats, just seems like audio is all up front, so I decided to just add a trunk sub and see if the audio experience improves.

I AM SO GLAD I DID!

*DISCLAIMER* I am not a mobile audio installer or a professional. I simply asked many questions of the pros and did lots of research.

*** AUDIO EXPERTS PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF I DID ANYTHING WRONG ***

(Special thanks to Eric Cole @ JL Audio for his help)

Parts List

• JL Audio ACP208LG-W3v3 Dual 8W3v3 MicroSub+™ with DCD™ Amplifier, Ported. (http://www.jlaudio.com/acp208lg-w3v3...-systems-93331) $650
• AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter Wwith AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control (
  Amazon
  Amazon
  ) $71
• CT10MC03 Parrot SOT T Harness Adaptor Wiring Lead for Mercedes C-Class (https://www.ebay.com/itm/CT10MC03-Pa...7/401593580866) $46
• InstallGear 4 Gauge Complete Amp Kit (
  Amazon
  Amazon
  ) $20
• Raptor R54MANL PRO SERIES - MANL 4-Position Fused Distribution Block (
  Amazon
  Amazon
  ) $22

Step 1. Run 4 gauge power cable from the battery to the trunk, down the passenger side trim (unless your battery is already the trunk)

***Always disconnect the negative battery cable when working on this ***


Connect the power cable to the distribution block



STEP 2. Remove the extra wires from the CT10MC03 Adapter Harness and solder about 3 feet of 16 gauge speaker wire to the Front Left and Right Bass channels on the aftermarket harness. (observe polarity)


NOTE. The wire colors on the CT10MC03 Adapter Harness ARE NOT the same colors as OEM harness.

WIRE COLOR LEGEND
Sub Front Left - = OEM Pink = CT10MC03 Violet
Sub Front Left + = OEM Pink/Black = CT10MC03 Gray
Sub Front Right - = OEM Violet = CT10MC03 Violet/Black
Sub Front Right + = OEM Violet/Black = CT10MC03 Gray/Black

This is what it looks like after you connect the CT10MC03 Adapter Harness to the OEM Speaker output harness and Burmester AMP.

(No Factory wires to cut or destroy and easily revert back to stock anytime )


Disconnect the OEM connector from the Burmester AMP and connect it to the CT10MC03, then connect the other end of the CT10MC03 to the AMP.


STEP 3. Connect the Left and Right Sub Channels to the AudioControl LC2i speaker inputs, Set all knobs to lowest setting, Set AccuBass threshold all the way to the right. (Read the manual 3 times).

Leave the Bass Outputs disconnected for now.

Run power and ground wires to the LC2i and a Remote OUT trigger wire for the subwoofer.
***Always disconnect the negative battery cable when working on this ***

NOTE. The LC2i has GTO Signal Sensing, which will turn the unit on when it detects signal at the input from your factory amp/powered head unit.

(This works great and it will turn OFF/ON when the factory AMP does. The LC2i will also tell the Sub to turn ON/OFF)



STEP 4. Calibrate the LC2i.

1. Make sure the LC2i has power, ground connections and the speaker inputs are properly connected (Left to Left and + to +)
2. Double/Triple check all connection and ONLY THEN reconnect the Battery. (Is the distribution block cover on?)
3. Start the car
4. Set all audio sound options, bass, treble, mid to 0 (off). (I also turned off surround)
5. Insert a 50hz sine wave CD into the CD player.
6. Press the volume + (up) knob on the steering wheel until you are confident it's at max volume (very important to ONLY use the steering wheel controls)
7. Press the volume - (down) knob on the steering wheel only 3 times (you should now be at 3/4 volume)
8. Make sure the 50hz sine wave is still playing. Use a multi-meter (set to AC volts) to verify the voltage at the LC2i speaker inputs, any channel (I used 13.49v for 3/4 volume. Max volume from the AMP read as 16.71v)
9. Set all knobs on the LC2i to lowest setting, Set AccuBass threshold all the way to the right.
10. Make sure the 50hz sine wave is still playing.
11. You need to turn the bass level knob on the LC2i and until the maximized light comes on, then back off a bit, until it goes out. This will ensure the hottest undistorted output from the LC2i. More info here: https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowled...oreqcrossover/
12. ***MAKE SURE TO TURN THE VOLUME BACK DOWN ON THE HEAD UNIT***
13. Turn off the car
14. Done.

STEP 5. Run the ground, power, remote IN wires to the subwoofer connector.
***Always disconnect the negative battery cable when working on this ***

Connect the RCA cables from the LC2i BASS outputs to subwoofer low level inputs.
Turn the subwoofer input sensitivity ALL THE WAY DOWN (MIN)
Play a nice bass heavy audio track (I like Boasty ft Idris Elba, because the bass drop is like butter) and follow the instructions to set the correct input sensitivity for your sub.


Enjoy!




FINAL THOUGHTS

• When the doors and windows are closed and the BASS is booming inside, you can't hear any excessive bass noise outside.
• The BASS doesn't rattle the inside or the outside of the car.
• The sound is 110% better with bass coming from behind.
• ECO Start/Stop works the same and doesn't seem affected.
• No battery drain issues. LC2i turns ON/OFF with factory AMP.
• I use surround and even set BASS to 2. (Treble is 10, MID is 0)
• The sub fits perfectly, but I still need to create supports to keep it from sliding back. (it does not take up much space in my trunk)

 

Next Phase is to try Mikes Burmester DSP AMP upgrade in the summer.

https://w205audio.wordpress.com/2016...rmester-audio/

 

 

You keep the factory amp for the center channel and rear surrounds and put the other six channels on the Audison 8.9bit DSP amp.

The Audison amp allows you to tweak the sound quality (eq, distance, frequency, filters, etc) to your liking using the PC DSP software and can also drive the extra rear sub woofer. (see the link for more info)

 

Why did you run the LC2 in front of JL Microsub?
I am also adding a JL Microsub in a 2018 GLC 43 but still trying to figure out the Bumester connector. The foot well subs are PK and VT on diagram but connector has a pair of 18 gauge and a pair of 14 gauge wires. Any idea?!
~Thanks

 

WIRE COLOR LEGEND
Sub Front Left - = OEM Pink = CT10MC03 Violet
Sub Front Left + = OEM Pink/Black = CT10MC03 Gray

Sub Front Right - = OEM Violet = CT10MC03 Violet/Black
Sub Front Right + = OEM Violet/Black = CT10MC03 Gray/Black

 

Adding subwoofer support and straps to have the sub stand and give my spare tire room.



26 inches of space left.







Strap hooks installed.

 

Do you know if this will work for POS Factory A20 or just for cars with Burmester sound?

 

I need a link to the subwoofer support stand please

 

You can add a sub to any car.

I used Home Depot Wood. Felt cloth and glue.

 

where did u get the stands - the two pieces holding the sub upright

 

Walmart. They won't hold a heavy sub upright, but they will keep it from sliding backwards.

STAYHOLD.

 

Introduction the new AudioControl LC2i Pro and LC1i

 

Thanks for sharing. I think someone already touched on this above, but how would this change if trying to add a sub to a base Audio 20 car? Since there's no factory amp (also trying to avoid adding a DSP amp). Could you just tap into the signal from the wires in the headunit?

 

I would assume the base system also has some type of amplifier or the volume level would be terrible. (It may not be a fancy powerful dsp amp)

The line output converter (LOC) is only needed if you are using high level speaker input wire and want to convert it to low level RCA input to feed a sub amp. (External or built in amp)

The amplified JL audio subwoofer above can take both high level and low input (without any help), but it can only handle 5.4v max on high level inputs. Burmester L/R sub channels can go as high as 16v.

Tap into your base system front bass wires and use an LOC.

 

Hi, I just installed my Audison AP8.9 and for some reasoni can't get it to sound properly. I copied the tune file from ypu and Mike but it sounds pretty raw. I'm powering the front doors and tweeters, the stock subs and the rear doors off of it.
The center speaker is so overpowering that's all I hear.

Could you share how you connected your inputs and outputs? Like what speakers did you use for inputs and outputs. My AP8.9 flashes red when I connect ch 3 and 4 positives and negatives together to the stock subs. I'm not sure if thats correct.
Thanks so much.

 

​​​I never posted a tune file, but i can if you want.

Also, the center channel and surrounds stay on the factory amp and are several decibels quieter than the speakers on the AP.8.9. If you followed mikes instructions that would be the result.
If you meant the front audio seems louder then try setting the front subs to 500hz low pass.

 

Oh yes my bad I meant Mike's tuning file. My car is a c63 so I didn't use the fix82. I'm running the a pillar tweeters and the doors 3.5s off one channel.
Did you connect the front stock subs to two output leads from the AP8.9 or did you just select the bridged option on the software.
I followed Mike's installation guide but I think its my tuning that's off. Could you share yours even if its screenshots I'll copy them over.
thanks

 

I can later. I did select the bridged option on outputs 3/4 and 5/6. Make sure you bridged them on the correct wire + and - outputs. I believe Audison is specific about the channel and polarity when bridging. Also, my factory Burmester front subs turned out to be 2.2ohms so not sure how they worked with the Audison in bridged mode, but they did.

​​​​​​Check page 13 of the 2.0 Audison manual

 

Yea mine didn't work when bridged lol. It was flashing red so I'm guessing it was reading the impedance too low. I would appreciate when you have time if you could get me that file.
thanks

 

File Attached. FYI its not a .ZIP file.

Just remove the ".ZIP" in the name. I couldn't upload the .APS file without doing that.

 

do you need the T harness if you are using a zen tv Nav M? If not where do you get wires to connect to external amp?

 

T-harnees saves you from cutting oem speaker wires and provides speaker inputs and outputs. You tap into the harness not factory wires.

With Zen-m you don't need high level speaker output, but you still need speaker input from new amplifier.

ATF now sells the harness or you can but the one listed.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/match/adaptors-harnessesl/pp-

 

i can’t find anyone that sells it in the us only stores I find are sus. You have any link for a us supplier by chance? Also do you have to leave the stock harness disconnect frin burnmeister amp?

 

Sorry only Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/372116720209

https://www.ebay.com/itm/233791269027