Automatic trunk closer retrofit on w205
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Newbie
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1
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mercedes c class w205 2016 LHD 220d saloon sport pack
Automatic trunk closer retrofit on w205
Hello guys, after purchasing my w205 last year I kept obsessing over the fact that the car was missing a automatic trunk closer feature,and so after lurking all over the internet (keep in mind that I am a handyman that does everything) I saw that alot of people were selling the parts necessary for this retrofit.
Now, after spending quite alot of time and money to actually get all the parts from different persons on ebay ,mind you that alot of money were lost on behalf of
people not wanting to sell me specific parts (no one had all the parts).
So to the issue at hand, I am not able to locate a wiring loom as I initially thought would be available, so this makes this install very not so plug n' play...ish.
No worries, I sought ought to find a mercedes service manual... so the install could be once again finished by myself but the problem is after finding the said manual
again I found myself in despair as it was a bit difficult to understand, mainly the wiring diagrams and also what connects to what and where ...
After explaining my whole situation I ask the forum if anyone has attempted to retrofit an automatic trunk closer feature?If not I will continue to advance on my own, will be posting photos soon as I proceed
Now, after spending quite alot of time and money to actually get all the parts from different persons on ebay ,mind you that alot of money were lost on behalf of
people not wanting to sell me specific parts (no one had all the parts).
So to the issue at hand, I am not able to locate a wiring loom as I initially thought would be available, so this makes this install very not so plug n' play...ish.
No worries, I sought ought to find a mercedes service manual... so the install could be once again finished by myself but the problem is after finding the said manual
again I found myself in despair as it was a bit difficult to understand, mainly the wiring diagrams and also what connects to what and where ...
After explaining my whole situation I ask the forum if anyone has attempted to retrofit an automatic trunk closer feature?If not I will continue to advance on my own, will be posting photos soon as I proceed
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 1,117
A gaggle of MB's
Unfortunately - in today's car manufacturing - the wiring harness for each MB is made specific to the features that that MB will have - so there isn't a "wiring loom" available to add a specific feature after the fact like Trunk Closer".
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 3
From: Fareham, United Kingdom
Mercedes C300h
Remote trunk closing works perfectly.
Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 77
Likes: 20
From: Norcal
2015 C300 4MATIC / 2017 C43 AMG
That’s great news- congrats! I’ve been considering this retrofit- it’s one of the only features that I miss! Could you do a write up of parts involved/cost/pics? That would really benefit those looking to have this done. Thanks for leading the charge!!
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,413
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From: Earth
2015 C300 4Matic Sport
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 3
From: Fareham, United Kingdom
Mercedes C300h
I didn’t get many pictures during the fitting, but most of it was self explanatory. I’ll add some detail to this when I get a chance, but for the parts list, I used the following parts:
Trim panel- A2056908904 (not really needed, you can just cut a hole in your own trim panel for the switch).
Control unit- A2229006008 (has to be brand new from MB as they are VIN locked)
Motor- A2058200042 (this also needs some other little parts to attach to the trunk arm, but my used one came attached to the trunk arm!)
Striker plate- A2057600700
Actuator- A2047500060 (also needs a cable to attach it to the striker plate- again, I got the striker plate and actuator from a used vehicle which included the wire)
Actuator insulation- A2057500060 (this is a plastic box and foam to attach the actuator to the mounting point in the trunk)
Release switch (cabin)- A2229052303
Boot release switch- A2208217251 (different switch is needed if you have keyless entry)
Bracket- A2055452240 (to mount the control unit to the trunk)
Console- A2057500031 (to mount the motor to the trunk)
Nut- N910112006001 - 10mm M6x 1.0mm (to mount the console)
Bolt- A0119908804 - M5x 20 (also to mount the console)
Stanchion-A2057570082 (a small plastic link arm to attach the bottom of the motor onto the trunk. Also needs some grommets at either end).
The whole thing does need coding. I had this done by COMAND.co.uk near Guildford. They were fantastic and really helpful. They can get a wiring loom made up for people too, but it’s probably cheaper to get all the wiring from a car that’s being dismantled.
I’ll add the wiring diagrams etc when I get a chance.
Trim panel- A2056908904 (not really needed, you can just cut a hole in your own trim panel for the switch).
Control unit- A2229006008 (has to be brand new from MB as they are VIN locked)
Motor- A2058200042 (this also needs some other little parts to attach to the trunk arm, but my used one came attached to the trunk arm!)
Striker plate- A2057600700
Actuator- A2047500060 (also needs a cable to attach it to the striker plate- again, I got the striker plate and actuator from a used vehicle which included the wire)
Actuator insulation- A2057500060 (this is a plastic box and foam to attach the actuator to the mounting point in the trunk)
Release switch (cabin)- A2229052303
Boot release switch- A2208217251 (different switch is needed if you have keyless entry)
Bracket- A2055452240 (to mount the control unit to the trunk)
Console- A2057500031 (to mount the motor to the trunk)
Nut- N910112006001 - 10mm M6x 1.0mm (to mount the console)
Bolt- A0119908804 - M5x 20 (also to mount the console)
Stanchion-A2057570082 (a small plastic link arm to attach the bottom of the motor onto the trunk. Also needs some grommets at either end).
The whole thing does need coding. I had this done by COMAND.co.uk near Guildford. They were fantastic and really helpful. They can get a wiring loom made up for people too, but it’s probably cheaper to get all the wiring from a car that’s being dismantled.
I’ll add the wiring diagrams etc when I get a chance.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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Likes: 118
I didn’t get many pictures during the fitting, but most of it was self explanatory. I’ll add some detail to this when I get a chance, but for the parts list, I used the following parts:
Trim panel- A2056908904 (not really needed, you can just cut a hole in your own trim panel for the switch).
Control unit- A2229006008 (has to be brand new from MB as they are VIN locked)
Motor- A2058200042 (this also needs some other little parts to attach to the trunk arm, but my used one came attached to the trunk arm!)
Striker plate- A2057600700
Actuator- A2047500060 (also needs a cable to attach it to the striker plate- again, I got the striker plate and actuator from a used vehicle which included the wire)
Actuator insulation- A2057500060 (this is a plastic box and foam to attach the actuator to the mounting point in the trunk)
Release switch (cabin)- A2229052303
Boot release switch- A2208217251 (different switch is needed if you have keyless entry)
Bracket- A2055452240 (to mount the control unit to the trunk)
Console- A2057500031 (to mount the motor to the trunk)
Nut- N910112006001 - 10mm M6x 1.0mm (to mount the console)
Bolt- A0119908804 - M5x 20 (also to mount the console)
Stanchion-A2057570082 (a small plastic link arm to attach the bottom of the motor onto the trunk. Also needs some grommets at either end).
The whole thing does need coding. I had this done by COMAND.co.uk near Guildford. They were fantastic and really helpful. They can get a wiring loom made up for people too, but it’s probably cheaper to get all the wiring from a car that’s being dismantled.
I’ll add the wiring diagrams etc when I get a chance.
Trim panel- A2056908904 (not really needed, you can just cut a hole in your own trim panel for the switch).
Control unit- A2229006008 (has to be brand new from MB as they are VIN locked)
Motor- A2058200042 (this also needs some other little parts to attach to the trunk arm, but my used one came attached to the trunk arm!)
Striker plate- A2057600700
Actuator- A2047500060 (also needs a cable to attach it to the striker plate- again, I got the striker plate and actuator from a used vehicle which included the wire)
Actuator insulation- A2057500060 (this is a plastic box and foam to attach the actuator to the mounting point in the trunk)
Release switch (cabin)- A2229052303
Boot release switch- A2208217251 (different switch is needed if you have keyless entry)
Bracket- A2055452240 (to mount the control unit to the trunk)
Console- A2057500031 (to mount the motor to the trunk)
Nut- N910112006001 - 10mm M6x 1.0mm (to mount the console)
Bolt- A0119908804 - M5x 20 (also to mount the console)
Stanchion-A2057570082 (a small plastic link arm to attach the bottom of the motor onto the trunk. Also needs some grommets at either end).
The whole thing does need coding. I had this done by COMAND.co.uk near Guildford. They were fantastic and really helpful. They can get a wiring loom made up for people too, but it’s probably cheaper to get all the wiring from a car that’s being dismantled.
I’ll add the wiring diagrams etc when I get a chance.
Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 84
Likes: 10
From: Regina, SK, CA
2016 C450 AMG
Just incase anyone sees this tread, and is trying to decide whether or not to do this retrofit. I'll give you a bit of a heads up as to how much work is actually required.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 497
From: Earth
2015 C300 4Matic Sport
Just incase anyone sees this tread, and is trying to decide whether or not to do this retrofit. I'll give you a bit of a heads up as to how much work is actually required.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
C180
Just incase anyone sees this tread, and is trying to decide whether or not to do this retrofit. I'll give you a bit of a heads up as to how much work is actually required.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Mastersean; Jul 8, 2022 at 05:00 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 23
Likes: 7
From: Atsugi
W205
Just incase anyone sees this tread, and is trying to decide whether or not to do this retrofit. I'll give you a bit of a heads up as to how much work is actually required.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
In my 2016 C450 I have to add/modify wiring for the following components:
S62/26 trunk mounted closing switch
N121 trunk closing control unit
H4/60 warning buzzer
M51 trunk opening/closing motor
M14/31 striker plate motor
N38 rear switching module
I also have to add the following fuses into the K40/5 rear fuse and relay box along with wiring:
F458 / 5a - N38 rear switching module
F464 / 40a and F413 / 5a - N121 trunk closing/opening module
The actual component installation isn't bad, just the wiring that's a bit of an ordeal.
Some/most of the wiring is none existent. And to get it, you either have to know exactly what your looking for and remove/cut it out of a parts vehicle, or custom make it.
You have to add the N121 control unit into CAN B as well.
The correct way is to run a twisted pair from the N121 control unit to the X30/32 CAN B potential distributor block at the driver side front seat, but I just spliced into the N69/5 Keyless go module CAN B wiring.
Then the vehicle has to be coded for it to work. Either by a dealership that is willing to do retrofit coding, or an aftermarket Benz shop.
TBH It's a bit of a PIA, but worth it for $600ish worth of parts, $130 dealership visit, and a couple days labor.
