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Sure... you might noodle a bit more on this part of your budget "adding another 3k for repairs and registration" - if this C-Class was written off as "totaled" by the insurance company - I don't know how you feel your stated budget will complete repairs...
Sure... you might noodle a bit more on this part of your budget "adding another 3k for repairs and registration" - if this C-Class was written off as "totaled" by the insurance company - I don't know how you feel your stated budget will complete repairs...
This is the description of it(see screenshot). I just feel like it will be auctioned of for more than 7k. Judging off the the images what would you estimate the final cost would be?
This is a $25k car clean title..for it to be totaled by insurance that means a repair shop quoted at least 75% of its value in repairs ($18,750). So your budget is $15,000 less than a repair shop to get it “right”. Sure a lot is labor, marked up parts, etc. You can get aftermarket for cheaper. But I’m sure there will be a gap in fixing it for $3k vs. fixing it right. Good luck!
I found a like new headlight on eBay for $300, shouldn’t it be plug and play
if it comes with control modules on the headlight then i believe so. if it doesn't have modules, then it will need to be coded for sure. but i dont remember exactly if it comes with modules if it is plug and play. may need to sync the headlight to the can network. I do not remember. if you do buy the car, i have a pair of very good condition static headlights with control modules though and can give the support to code if needed goodluck. just know, not everything electrical would be plug and play especially if you have to buy new. the electrical modules need to be coded to the car.
if it comes with control modules on the headlight then i believe so. if it doesn't have modules, then it will need to be coded for sure. but i dont remember exactly if it comes with modules if it is plug and play. may need to sync the headlight to the can network. I do not remember. if you do buy the car, i have a pair of very good condition static headlights with control modules though and can give the support to code if needed goodluck. just know, not everything electrical would be plug and play especially if you have to buy new. the electrical modules need to be coded to the car.
Thanks! If I end up picking it up I will probably continue the thread with progress updates!
This car is 8k minimum in repairs if you're looking to put it back 100% by yourself. And you also have to code the headlights to the car module if brand new, its not plug and play. I wouldn't bet on a used pair of headlights being plug and play either. Just acquiring all the parts alone will be a hassle. With the salvage title, this car will always be in the lower end of the resale value, definitely not worth the time or effort.
If I was owner of this car, I would part it out immediately and move on.
Rebuilt title car sells at 2/3 price. It means the car will be $17k market value after rebuilt. If you bid $7k plus auction fee and delivery, it becomes $8k.
Parts and materials will be about $5k if you use ebay, online parts store, and aftermarket parts. The final price will be $13k if you do all DIY.
Replacing headlights isn’t an issue. It just needs an adaptation and it can be done by anyone having xentry equip. It can also be done by dealership for $150.
PS: most headlights on ebay will not come with the control unit. You can transfer the unit in the car to the new headlight. It’s a plug and play in this case.
Last edited by realeric; Jan 20, 2020 at 02:36 AM.
Rebuilt title car sells at 2/3 price. It means the car will be $17k market value after rebuilt. If you bid $7k plus auction fee and delivery, it becomes $8k.
Parts and materials will be about $5k if you use ebay, online parts store, and aftermarket parts. The final price will be $13k if you do all DIY.
Replacing headlights isn’t an issue. It just needs an adaptation and it can be done by anyone having xentry equip. It can also be done by dealership for $150.
PS: most headlights on ebay will not come with the control unit. You can transfer the unit in the car to the new headlight. It’s a plug and play in this case.
Thank you for your insight! The cars prebid right now is 4K so I hope it remains within my bid budget. Do you find the 2/3 price “rule” to be accurate for various other car models?
In summary - the OP has no prior experience with major car repair - and no prior experience in Salvage Title rebuilding.
In this particular situation - if you Bid-And-Win against professional rebuilder's - you will know you paid too much.
There is no such thing as a a "minor damage" current/recent model vehicle - any brand - as pointed out in prior post insurance companies don't give give up easy - and repair cost at/over 75% of the market value of the vehicle is not uncommon.
In my experience "Salvage Title" market value is nowhere near 75% retail - at "best" 50% - and never acceptable for dealer trade-in.
Salvage title vehicles are bought by professional "breaker's" for resale as parts - or by "rebuilder's" who resell for Export buyer's for "3rd world" countries.
Without rebuilding experience - you have a high risk of "overshooting" the value - and "way underestimating" repair costs..
I do cars like this all the time and it depends on what you can do yourself, Can you do panel ?, can you paint ?, are you good with pulling apart and fitting up?, as the things you are not good at you have to pay someone to do, this will ad to your total quite quick at hundreds of dollars an hour.
You can more than likely get the parts all second hand for around a couple of grand, if you can repair the bonnet and guard yourself you will save money there, if you can paint it even better, it all comes down to what you pay for it. I would set a maximum and not go over it as you can very easily get caught up in the hype and pay too much, only to find stuff broken or damaged that you didnt see taking you over budget, might have damage underneath from going over a island, bent rims etc?, I do 5-10 cars a year and have been caught out on my early purchases, from veteran bidders bidding me up, to finding rail damage on a car with minor damage, both cars I lost money on big time so worth sticking to your price is a must when dealing with salvaged cars, you dont know if it was babied from new or driven like the Dukes of Hazzard and is about to haemorrhage .
I always look at the car and overestimate the repair and allow for unrelated things now so I can have a buffer in case there is unseen damage, if there is none then its a bonus, but if there is damage at least I have accounted for it.
Just dont pay too much for the car to begin with and you can turn a nice little profit, or keep it and have a cheap luxo barge for half the price
I do cars like this all the time and it depends on what you can do yourself, Can you do panel ?, can you paint ?, are you good with pulling apart and fitting up?, as the things you are not good at you have to pay someone to do, this will ad to your total quite quick at hundreds of dollars an hour.
You can more than likely get the parts all second hand for around a couple of grand, if you can repair the bonnet and guard yourself you will save money there, if you can paint it even better, it all comes down to what you pay for it. I would set a maximum and not go over it as you can very easily get caught up in the hype and pay too much, only to find stuff broken or damaged that you didnt see taking you over budget, might have damage underneath from going over a island, bent rims etc?, I do 5-10 cars a year and have been caught out on my early purchases, from veteran bidders bidding me up, to finding rail damage on a car with minor damage, both cars I lost money on big time so worth sticking to your price is a must when dealing with salvaged cars, you dont know if it was babied from new or driven like the Dukes of Hazzard and is about to haemorrhage .
I always look at the car and overestimate the repair and allow for unrelated things now so I can have a buffer in case there is unseen damage, if there is none then its a bonus, but if there is damage at least I have accounted for it.
Just dont pay too much for the car to begin with and you can turn a nice little profit, or keep it and have a cheap luxo barge for half the price
The only thing i probably wont be able to do is repair is the bonnet and fender myself. Prebid is currently at 6k so I will probably have to miss out on this car and search for another.
That is exactly why i am wanting to do this, because you can enjoy these cars for a lot cheaper. Next winter I want to pick up a c63s coupe from an auction to keep for a few years! Any idea what those typically go for that are in good shape?
front bumper, rad support, crash bar, right headlight, right fender is all it needs from the looks
Plus sensors and calibration. More if it had distronic. Also paint to match new bumper cover of course.
For a competent DIY with a shop and used/aftermarket parts this might come in as low as $3000 but could easily exceed $6000. I think the OPs repair budget is a bit low unless he has access to a real shop and a good parts supply chain.
Plus sensors and calibration. More if it had distronic. Also paint to match new bumper cover of course.
For a competent DIY with a shop and used/aftermarket parts this might come in as low as $3000 but could easily exceed $6000. I think the OPs repair budget is a bit low unless he has access to a real shop and a good parts supply chain.
Yea thats true, paint will be a little costly. I need to learn how to do that myself! I have a few friends who own shops so I am not really worried about the parts or repairs I cannot do myself. The bid just hit 10k so i am definitely skipping out on this specific one
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goodluck. just know, not everything electrical would be plug and play especially if you have to buy new. the electrical modules need to be coded to the car.
