When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have the usual small 2T home trolly jack and a pair of jack stands.
I'm not sure the best way to jack up and support the car. I know the rear Diff is the designated rear jacking point, but it's unreachable with my small jack, plus I would prefer the security of jacking one corner at a time.
So where else can I lift from? Everything seems to be covered in plastic covers. I'm not even confident I can use my jack stands on the jacking points. The rectangular plastic holed jacking points do not look like suitable locations to rest on jack stands.
Thanks for the info, but I've already checked out the documentation and it doesn't help. I shall try and better explain the issue.
The rear Diff center lift point is not accessible for a 'home' trolly jack. You would need one of those large shop floor jacks that you wheel around. Even if I could lift from there, you can't safely lower on to regular jack stands. You would have a situation where the stand is rotated 90Deg with the plastic jack point on the car rested on the top edges of the stand head. Dangerous as the car could very easily slide off. You would need to convert the jack stand heads to properly mate with the plastic jacking points.
I'm happy I can lift at the jacking points with a suitable adapter (incidentally don't buy the 'Planger Lofty pad for German cars', the block is too long to fit in the slot on a W205). However then you have the issue of where do you put the jack stands? I can start stripping off some plastic covers under the car to find a secure point, but then I'm working under a jacked car which defeats the point..
I did a search on YouTube and found a couple videos, none of which solve the problem. In both cases they just leave the car supported by the trolly jack on a side jacking point. In one video the guy puts a large block of wood under the car in case the jack fails and makes a comment that he couldn't find a suitable jack stand location. Unless someone can come up with a better solution I shall just have to do this. I'm just swapping out brakes so the car will only be up 15 minutes each side, and I'm not working under the car so I'm personally not at risk. However this goes against years of ingrained teaching to never leave a car supported by just a jack.
Some info and photos for anyone who comes across this in the future.
Once jacked up I found two points that I could place a jack stand under in case the jack failed. The rear Diff (Mercedes suggested rear lift point), and a suspension arm point that shows between plastic covers. I didn't support the weight of the car on either of these points but had the jack stand in place in case of failure.
Rubber puck on the jack head and it fits nicely in this space. Rear Diff, strong enough to lift the car but maybe not the best balance on a stand. Exposed suspension arm. This should be strong enough to hold the car and fits the shape of the jack stand nicely.
Regarding changing the rear discs and pads. Reasonably straight forward like any other car. Two minor things to be aware of..
1) Because of the electronic parking brake you need to set the car into brake change service mode (video instructions on YouTube)
2) One of the brake carrier bolts has little clearance behind it. I couldn't fit a socket on and had to use a regular spanner and a pipe for leverage.
What you need is “3 ton (metric ton, 6,000lb) low profile rapid pump(quick life) floor jack”. I bought one at harborfreight for $70 years ago (20% coupon available). It’s heavy but do jobs on garage floor.
[QUOTE=bus_ter;8065665]Some info and photos for anyone who comes across this in the future.
Once jacked up I found two points that I could place a jack stand under in case the jack failed. The rear Diff (Mercedes suggested rear lift point), and a suspension arm point that shows between plastic covers. I didn't support the weight of the car on either of these points but had the jack stand in place in case of failure.
I found this useful video for lifting the rear and brake pad change
I would not use the differential to jack up the car or even put a jack stand under it as a back-up. The rear differential is bolted sideways into the rear subframe thru rubber bushings.
I have a W204 that is very low to the ground and have to drive it on boards in order to fit my floor jacks underneath. Plus my parking area is gravel so jack stands arent that stable.
When I need to work under the car and the wheels do not have to come off to do the job I will drive the car on wooden ramps i made from 2x12's cut the different lengths. i feel much safer with the weight of the car on its own wheels whenever possible. If i need the car higher for more room I will jack up the car from the jacking points, place another board under the wheels then lower again.
I'm always working on my car doing something, even just removing the wheels to inspect the brakes and suspension. For that stuff I dont have to go under the car so will jack it up with a floor jack then stick boards underneath the arms of the floor jack so they cant lower if the jack fails. When i replaced the rear passenger side brake line i used two floor jacks one on each side at the jacking points, boards under the arms of the jacks then my jack stands/timbers placed under the car next to the floor jacks. Ill even push the wheels underneath the car if i have to reach underneath doing the job.
To keep from ruining the plastic jacking pads more than they already are I place a scrap piece of composite trim on top of the jack. The trim material is some type of plastic that can compress slightly but durable where it doesnt split or crack.
