NEW MATCH PP-MB 1.9BUR PLUG & PLAY CABLE FOR BURMESTER TO AFTERMARKET AMP INSTALLS




Description
The universal 9-channel Plug & Play cable harness PP-MB 1.9BUR allows an easy connection of an DSP amplifier like the HELIX V EIGHT DSP MK2 or V TWELVE DSP to selected Mercedes car models with factory-equipped Burmester sound systems – compatible with most car models with a manufacturing date above 2014 and 9-channel Burmester sound system / 13 speakers.
The cable is equipped with MOLEX connectors for future plug & play applications but for universal applications all wires are indicated by a name label.
Features
- Plug & Play cable harness for an easy connection of a HELIX V EIGHT DSP MK2 or V TWELVE DSP amplifier to a Mercedes equipped with Burmester sound system (manufacturing year > 2014)
- All signal inputs and outputs are labeled and therefore suitable for all universal applications
- Cable length 1 Meter
For Mercedes car models with factory-equipped Burmester sound system with 9 amplifier channels and 13 speakers – manufacturing year > 2014




There is a cheaper DIY option available which I am using in my car right now.
The CT10MC03 Bluetooth Parrot SOT T-Harness ISO Adaptor. (on ebay) $50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Connects2-C...s/372116720209
You just need to cut off the excess wires and solder on additional input/output speaker wires.
***Looks like the MATCH version is using the same color wires as the OEM harness, which makes things easier to validate.
Last edited by benzdude; Dec 11, 2020 at 10:55 AM.




Finished Product sample.
Note. This build is feeding a JL Audio Fix 82, so only the Left/Right Sub and Left/Right Front speaker outs from the Burmester AMP are needed to create a full range signal.
The thicker cable is for speaker inputs going from Helix DSP to each speaker. I currently have all 9 speaker channels connected to my Helix V twelve DSP.
There is a cheaper DIY option available which I am using in my car right now.
The CT10MC03 Bluetooth Parrot SOT T-Harness ISO Adaptor. (on ebay) $50
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Connects2-C...r/171270063958
Your eBay link is for $50.62 + $66.96 shipping. Is that what you paid or were you able to find that harness at a better price? It's nice not to have to cut factory wires, but I'm not a sure at what price.
Also you said you went into a FIX-82. Did you try just the front signal to get a flat calibrated signal (without the sub input) or did you need both? The manual says to use as few inputs as possible to sum, so I thought I would see what you came across and ask if you tried just the front.
I have a 2021 GLE 450 on order and want to hit the ground running to upgrade the audio when it comes in.
Thanks!




Your eBay link is for $50.62 + $66.96 shipping. Is that what you paid or were you able to find that harness at a better price? It's nice not to have to cut factory wires, but I'm not a sure at what price.
Also you said you went into a FIX-82. Did you try just the front signal to get a flat calibrated signal (without the sub input) or did you need both? The manual says to use as few inputs as possible to sum, so I thought I would see what you came across and ask if you tried just the front.
I have a 2021 GLE 450 on order and want to hit the ground running to upgrade the audio when it comes in.
Thanks!
Here is a better link with only $18 USD shipping from them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Connects2-C...s/372116720209
You need L/R Fronts + L/R Front Bass to get a full range signal into the JL Fix 82.
L/R Fronts to inputs 1/2 and L/R Front Bass to inputs 7/8 on the JL Fix 82.
Last edited by benzdude; Dec 11, 2020 at 11:00 AM.




Had him ship in to a UK address to avoid tax and $70 Ebay shipping charge.
The cable is nicely color coded, marked and has separate input and output wires.

Last edited by benzdude; Dec 11, 2020 at 11:11 AM.
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Here is a better link with only $18 USD shipping from them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Connects2-C...s/372116720209
You need L/R Fronts + L/R Front Bass to get a full range signal into the JL Fix 82.
L/R Fronts to inputs 1/2 and L/R Front Bass to inputs 7/8 on the JL Fix 82.
This is all on paper for now as I am still waiting for the car to be delivered, but here is the plan so far: Tap front, rear and woofer signals into a FIX-86 to retain the F/R factory fader. I don't think I need a separate DSP as the FIX-86 has built in crossover settings and a four channel 15 band equalizer. Upgrade the 3 surround speakers to Match and keep them on the factory amp. Put Morel components in the front doors and Morel coax' in the rear doors. Of course I can't commit until I get the car and remove the door panels to confirm the fit. For the front foot well subs I was thinking Hertz 8" slim woofers, but again I have to check for fit. I have an existing Alpine PDX-V9 that would provide MORE then enough power (4x100 watts 4 ohms and 1x500 watts @1,2, or 4 ohms), but I would have to run those front woofers as mono.
If there was still not enough low end I was thinking a J/L Audio Spare Tire Subwoofer, but I have not researched it fully yet.
Still have about a month to wait, but your documentation of your install is inspiring and helpful to visualize my plans. The install can be fairly stealth and the harness adapter you found can avoid cutting factory wires.
Thanks again!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Looking at your VERY NEAT custom cable I was wondering if cutting in the 3x2 channels on the factory wires to a molex connector wouldn't be too bad an idea. It would take 2 sets. You could plug them into each other and it would be as original factory, and then use the other set of molex to plug into those to get the signals and return to the speakers. It's cutting factory wires, but unless you are trying to claim warranty on the amp, no one would notice. It's about a $68 question





Looking at your VERY NEAT custom cable I was wondering if cutting in the 3x2 channels on the factory wires to a molex connector wouldn't be too bad an idea. It would take 2 sets. You could plug them into each other and it would be as original factory, and then use the other set of molex to plug into those to get the signals and return to the speakers. It's cutting factory wires, but unless you are trying to claim warranty on the amp, no one would notice. It's about a $68 question

I don't cut wires in my DIYs because I revert the car to factory condition before trade in.
With the Fix 86 you wcan add the L/R rears but lose toslink output to your DSP.
Last edited by benzdude; Oct 27, 2021 at 04:41 PM.
Like I said there is another reply that is waiting approval describing my ideas. When I get the car I will probably hit you up with more questions, meanwhile ....can't wait to get started!
I have also noticed that the harness features both cable inputs and outputs. For use with the helix v12, I assume i will only need the outputs?
Please could you let me know if I’m on the correct line of thinking or if I’m missing something here?
thanks.
I have also noticed that the harness features both cable inputs and outputs. For use with the helix v12, I assume i will only need the outputs?
Please could you let me know if I’m on the correct line of thinking or if I’m missing something here?
thanks.
The mobridge gets it's signal from the car's digital bus. Most of the new chain is audio sensing for turn on. The mobridge feeds the Helix and yes, you are just using the big harness to feed the speakers.
Setting up a V12 takes an experienced installer to set active crossovers and EQ, unless you are running passive crossover speakers. Either way you need to see if the mobridge supports front/rear for the car's head unit fader, or if not you might loose that ability and have to set a F/R balance on the Helix.
I also used an Audison entry level subwoofer amplifier, about 500 watts. It was EXCELLENT! Very powerful and ran cool. The Helix v12 also runs not too hot if it has ventilation or a fan. I went through a few high end subs, what actually worked was a Sundown 10 inch shallow mount in a 1/2 CuFt box, in my case a custom fiberglass one I had made. I burned out a JL sub and the installer tried to replace it with an $1800 Brax sub. He couldn't even get it to play without cutting out. I no longer own the Mercedes, but the installer for my Range Rover Sport didn't want to install a Sundown sub, and I didn't argue. He put in a Morel $800 sub and it burnt out on the drive home. I insisted he replace it with a Sundown and it's been going strong for a year and a half.
If I remember correctly, with all of the component speaker drivers, I was short one amp channel so the 2 rear deck speakers were tied together and ran mono from the Helix. And the center channel dash speaker I used had a double voice coil, one from the factory (nav, blinkers, etc) and one side to a helix channel.
I hope my experience helps you.
Last edited by Old Rocker; Feb 25, 2026 at 12:41 PM. Reason: add content



