Heisenberg

I decided to give the washer / bracket modification a try. I have more work to do but it is working!

Up front I have added three 6mm metric washers between the bracket holding the control rod and the frame, creating a spacer of about 4mm. I replaced the nut with a 6mm metric lock nut that does not have the bottom flange, so there is plenty of thread to tighten securely. I could safely add one more washer which would give me about a 5.3mm spacer.

In the rear I removed the nuts on the screws securing the bracket and dremeled a notch from the existing holes (using a tungsten carbide cutter) about 3mm towards the ground. This was basically out to the ring visible around the hole when the nut is removed. The bracket was relocated to the new position, a little closer to the ground and to the rear of the car, and the nuts were replaced.

Measured from the ground to the top of the fender well, the rear is now at 26.375" and the front is at 26.125". This is about 0.375" lower in the back and 0.5" lower in the front. Before and after measurements were obtained in the Sports II mode.

I'm going to add another washer up front and dremel the rear holes another 1mm or so. Crappy pic of the rear is attached, will get some better shots today. Car is camera shy right now because it is dirty and new tires need glaze !

If anyone wants the exact part numbers for the washers and nuts I used (both were perfect fits, and purchased from Home Depot) just ask, same for the dremel bit which seems indestructible even through some very hard steel ...

Heisenberg

This isn't my picture but I added annotation for bearings and does show how I notched the holes. I stopped at the ring around each existing hole so my current displacement is less than half of what this owner (E500 I believe) did. Tonight I will expand the notches a bit more.

Heisenberg

My pictures... after a bit more lowering. Car now down to 26" front and 26.125" rear. I had the front below 26" but dropping the rear raised it back up a bit.

Washers (stack of four, three steel and one steel/zinc) in the front total 5.33 mm. I'm using a 6mm tension nut instead of the MBZ nut, as it lacks the flange on the bottom and thus has more available tread. The bracket is fastened very securely but I still may add some Loctite to it. Any more washers would definitely require a longer bracket.

rbc55

i'm surprised that some people will actually go this route to lower their cars,there is no question that it works; however,having it done properly with a module or through star diagnostics would be costlier but only fractional to the cost of the vehicle and less chance of issues with this method as well as issues with the dealer if a problem were to occur.

Dogshine

This way should create no more problems than any other way of lowering, and in reality, retains the same functionality of the stock suspension. If you change it electronically with a module, the potential for problems is much greater imo.

Heisenberg

I agree. I had more concerns about an electronics module or reprogramming the car computer. As long as it is done properly / safely, there should be fewer issues with a mechanical solution like this or replacement links or control arms.

newton22

I agree, I went through the same method. Works like a charm.

However, for the rear, there is a single sensor. Just adjust that to lower the car.

Heisenberg

Exactly, a single sensor attached to an aluminum bracket in turn anchored by two screws to a steel support.

Unless extreme lowering is desired, or there is a requirement for dial-in adjustments, I don't really see a reason to use a module. While I had the money for a module, why spend the scratch if I don't have to ? That said, if Star Diagnostics lowering were available where I live I probably would have paid the $250 or whatever for that, just so I wouldn't have had to do the work myself as my time is valuable.

Dogshine

how much time would it take you to switch it back?

BMWEATR

should take like 20 min to change back to stock.