I got my ASP pulley put on today.

I helped the mechanic doing it.
If you have not removed or installed a Harmonic balancer I would not recommend attempting this your self.

Here are the steps to put one on..

1. Take off the Plastic crap(underneath), Air tubes, engine cover.

2. Prepare to take off the Fan shroud by removing bolts on the upper radiator support. (pic below of radiator support unbolted and moved back, this may be only for a CLS- I think S class, E class probably have room)

3. Unclip the fan shroud at the top, and then go underneath the car and take off 2 10mm nuts that hold the intercooler lines on the fan shroud. Remove one torq head t-20 screw that holds the intercooler bracket on the fan shroud.

4. back up top unplug the fan at the main harness on the passenger side of the fan shroud. Slowly pull up on the fan shroud and remove it. You will have to angle it to get around the 2 radiator hoses. Becareful, the fan shroud is very brittle.. TRUST ME!!

5. Remove the belts. I would make a diagram of the ACC belt as it goes around 9 pulleys. The diagram makes it alot easier when going back on.

6. The fun begins.. underneath again take out the Torque converter access plate.(pic below) Use something to stop the torque converter from moving, I used a VERY large screwdrive. Unbolt the Harmonic balancer bolt while holding the converter with the large Screwdriver. 2 people makes this a lot easier.

7. Time to remove the old pulley. You need a 3 prong pulley puller. Most pullies have need for the hooks of the pulley puller to face inwards, but on this pulley you need to unbolt each of the hooks and turn them around so the grip on the outside of the pulley holes. MB asks for a special service tool here but this worked great. With the bolt removed, put a 2" long 1/2" drive extension in to the bolt hole and then use the pulley puller and insert the screw end of the puller into the extension. Pic below will show how this should look when ready to remove the pulley.

8. Slowly tighten the bolt on the puller and watch to make sure the pulley is sliding off, you can see in one of the pics what is should look like before it comes off.

9. Pulley should be off, now you need to change the waterpump or the new pulley will not fit on the car.. Change the water pump pulley.

10. Slide the new pulley on while making sure you get it in the key way. Put the pulley bolt in and tighten it to 147lbs torque. (again using the Grande screwdriver to hold the torque converter)

11. Put it all back together. Its easy from here.

 

More pics

 

Nice write up. Good idea on the pulley puller. I will have to try that next time.

 

Thanks Viper.

Also, I forgot to add the car is much faster..

My K&Ns were waiting on the doorstep for me when I got home.

First 5 minutes after the pulley install are weird, trans doesn't know what to do.(even with sneaky ECU reset) I've only been 12 miles since now it runs amazing!! Pulls so much harder, traction below 30mph is non existant with esp off. Now I want evo headers, spacer, wires... the bug has bit. Vic "vrus" I'm gonna need that ecutune, pronto!!

This Saturday I should be going to the track in Bowling Green, Beech Bend Raceway. Last 2 weeks have been canceled due to weather.
CANT Wait!

 

Great write up, thanks for sharing

 

Nice write-up. I was wondering, did you care about MB warrentee or were you planning on pulling of pully prior to service?

Is that the same pulley you have in Pic#1 and Pic#7? Because they dont look anything alike. Unless that the new one your putting on.

 

I actually went to the dealer about 1 hour later and got the oil changed..

No mention of the pulley. If my supercharger or engine blows I will take it off before towing it in. Also, they ordered a new intercooler pump, b/c I told them it was cutting the supercharger off, I figured a new one would help out. I am scared if I get evo headers they might say something about warranty.

I'm working on a set up to use a full (radiator) size heat exchanger and using 2 pumps factory and Johnson pump. I just want to make sure the supercharger doesn't shut down.

 

You have a 06 cls55, was your s/c really cutting out?

 

Actually, it did one day just after 2 full throttle runs and it was 20 degrees outside.. It was sort of embarassing, I was giving a family member a ride to show how fast it was and after 2 1/4 mile runs is cut the supercharger off i.e. honda mode! I think some how it had an air lock or maybe the relay intermittantly failed.

Hasn't did it again but I wanna make sure.

 

change your IC pump..

my e55 had the same issue after I installed the ASP pullies.

I also help my local mechanic installed the pullies.

I took my car to the dealer and told them that I loose power after a few runs.

The changed the IC pump and all the fluids as well. No power loss so far.

But i'm going to upgrade to Johnson pump next and have the -10c mod done (for the summer)

 

Got the i/c pump put on today. The car feels faster from 5000 rpm plus and I hear the s/c much much more?
Before I didn't hear the whine as much and also I could feel the power drop off at about 5k rpm.

Glad I had it replaced. Going to the track on Sat to test it out!

 

Great info on the ASP pulley install and well explained w/pics. I must change my i/c pump

Keep us informed after the track runs...

 

JUST A QUICK HEADS UP FOR ANYONE PLANNING ON DOING THIS INSTALLATION THEMSELVES-REPLACE THE BOLT. TIGHTEN AT 200NM.AND THEN AN ADDITIONAL 90DEGREES AFTER. FAILURE TO DO SO , WILL EVENTUALLY CAUSE PULLEY TO LOOSEN.

 

Thats weird, the mb service manual stated to torque to 147lb no mention of 90degree step. It did recommend replacing the bolt but I have never seen a balancer loosen unless it was wobbling due to incorrect installation. If you feel concerned I would replace the bolt.

90 degrees after 147lb-ft would be extremely tight. Probably over 200lb-ft and also creeping into bolt breaking or crank thread stripping territory I would think.

 

New bolt should be used.Cheap insurance that everything is good under the hood.Those bolts arent meant to be restretched.