New Dyno Results
#1
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
New Dyno Results
As some will remember, about 5 weeks ago I ran a dyno on my CLS 63 and came out with only 404 RWHP. I was asked questions by the board to help try and answer my poor results, but did not know the answers.
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
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2010 RRS ; BMW K1200R; 14 E350 ; 14 RRS on order
As some will remember, about 5 weeks ago I ran a dyno on my CLS 63 and came out with only 404 RWHP. I was asked questions by the board to help try and answer my poor results, but did not know the answers.
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
my car = fully stock
stock cars get 400-420
you car is supposed to get 430-450 with ECU
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Last edited by TREZ63; 11-08-2007 at 10:19 PM.
#3
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CLS63
You ran your car way to hot
Oil at 112c ? From reading the posts on the forum these cars run best at low oil temps. But before you do any retune please go to the track, 1/4 mile see what it does. I don't like dynos ..
user error? to hot? no ram air? see what real #'s you get. Call Renntech talk to Bob about it. Please go to the track
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#6
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
As some will remember, about 5 weeks ago I ran a dyno on my CLS 63 and came out with only 404 RWHP. I was asked questions by the board to help try and answer my poor results, but did not know the answers.
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
Today I dynoed once again. Below are the results:
First run....376 in third gear
Second run...382 in third gear
Third run...402 in fourth gear
Fourth run...397 in fourth gear
Here is some relevant information that some of the more educated individuals to dyno will be able to use:
Inside temp of dyno room: 88.5 degrees
Barometric Pressure... I think 29 degrees
Oil temp...112 degrees celcius
Altitude...Approximately 1800 above sea level....Dallas area
Dyno was done in Manual Mode shifting first gears at around 3500 RPMS and final gear to 7400.
Dyno was done with car in dyno mode
I have removed my carbon filters and had an ECU upgrade by Renntech. I still think that my numbers should be better, but taking in the above factors, I am not sure. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!
D3
Are these numbers SAE corrected? Are they DA corrected?
Almost 90 degrees air temperatures combined with 112 C oil temperatures and already 1800 ft elevation can easily rob you of 20 to 30 hp.
Just to give you an example, last time I was out on the track, I ran the car at different oil temperature levels. When oil temps were around 60 C, I ran 12.7s but then when oil temps went back up to 105 C, the best I could run was 13.1 seconds. As you can see, that's almost half a second slower in a matter of 5 minutes
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Dynos only help you to determine effectiveness of mods not how much hp your car makes. I've seen the same car dyno at different shops (my C32 stage 2) with 27 hp difference (and that's only on a 300 hp car, you're dynoing a 500+ hp car, so I'd expect up to 40 hp difference).
The only way you'll be able to tell if ECU helped your car is by running the car at the track a couple of times and compare your results to a stock 63 car. For example, Trez's 63 dynos at 440 hp while Juicee's car dynos at 401 hp, but at the track, both car ran the same numbers. Does that mean a 40 hp increase in Trez's car does nothing?
Try this.......
1) Dyno the car on a very cold day (40 to 50 degrees)
2) Drive the car very hard before you dyno it, so that ECU will adapt to aggressive driving.
3) Let the car cool down before your first dyno run. Make sure oil temperatures are at 50 C.
4) Wait until the car fully cools down between runs.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to look at the whole picture here and don't worry, with the help of all members here, we'll get this figured out....
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
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#8
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2008 CLS63 AMG, 2008 Cadillac Escalade, 2006 BMW 325i, 2004 BMW 545i, 2004 Cadillac CTS-V
MB Forever,
Thanks so much for all the help. Don't have any updates yet. The weather here in Texas has been beautiful, so it might be a month or so before I can get a day at the temps you recommended. I haven't had a chance to get it to the track and time a quarter, but when I do, I will make sure and let the oil temp be as low as possible. Thank you once again so much for all the help.
D3
Thanks so much for all the help. Don't have any updates yet. The weather here in Texas has been beautiful, so it might be a month or so before I can get a day at the temps you recommended. I haven't had a chance to get it to the track and time a quarter, but when I do, I will make sure and let the oil temp be as low as possible. Thank you once again so much for all the help.
D3
#9
I think an ECU upgrade on the 63 is only worth a 15 hp increase at most; maybe even 20 hp with a custom tune, but that's about it. However the ECU does help make the car feel more alive....... not only by increasing the throttle response, but making the power transition periods much smoother, much quicker. I've driven a RennTech ECU tuned E63 last week, and I definately noticed a difference from my car (which is stock). That being said, I don't think your car is doing that bad.....
Are these numbers SAE corrected? Are they DA corrected?
Almost 90 degrees air temperatures combined with 112 C oil temperatures and already 1800 ft elevation can easily rob you of 20 to 30 hp.
Just to give you an example, last time I was out on the track, I ran the car at different oil temperature levels. When oil temps were around 60 C, I ran 12.7s but then when oil temps went back up to 105 C, the best I could run was 13.1 seconds. As you can see, that's almost half a second slower in a matter of 5 minutes
I would say half a second slower is a lot of hp loss
So yes, DA and altitude will reduce hp.
Dynos only help you to determine effectiveness of mods not how much hp your car makes. I've seen the same car dyno at different shops (my C32 stage 2) with 27 hp difference (and that's only on a 300 hp car, you're dynoing a 500+ hp car, so I'd expect up to 40 hp difference).
The only way you'll be able to tell if ECU helped your car is by running the car at the track a couple of times and compare your results to a stock 63 car. For example, Trez's 63 dynos at 440 hp while Juicee's car dynos at 401 hp, but at the track, both car ran the same numbers. Does that mean a 40 hp increase in Trez's car does nothing?
Try this.......
1) Dyno the car on a very cold day (40 to 50 degrees)
2) Drive the car very hard before you dyno it, so that ECU will adapt to aggressive driving.
3) Let the car cool down before your first dyno run. Make sure oil temperatures are at 50 C.
4) Wait until the car fully cools down between runs.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to look at the whole picture here and don't worry, with the help of all members here, we'll get this figured out....![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Are these numbers SAE corrected? Are they DA corrected?
Almost 90 degrees air temperatures combined with 112 C oil temperatures and already 1800 ft elevation can easily rob you of 20 to 30 hp.
Just to give you an example, last time I was out on the track, I ran the car at different oil temperature levels. When oil temps were around 60 C, I ran 12.7s but then when oil temps went back up to 105 C, the best I could run was 13.1 seconds. As you can see, that's almost half a second slower in a matter of 5 minutes
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Dynos only help you to determine effectiveness of mods not how much hp your car makes. I've seen the same car dyno at different shops (my C32 stage 2) with 27 hp difference (and that's only on a 300 hp car, you're dynoing a 500+ hp car, so I'd expect up to 40 hp difference).
The only way you'll be able to tell if ECU helped your car is by running the car at the track a couple of times and compare your results to a stock 63 car. For example, Trez's 63 dynos at 440 hp while Juicee's car dynos at 401 hp, but at the track, both car ran the same numbers. Does that mean a 40 hp increase in Trez's car does nothing?
Try this.......
1) Dyno the car on a very cold day (40 to 50 degrees)
2) Drive the car very hard before you dyno it, so that ECU will adapt to aggressive driving.
3) Let the car cool down before your first dyno run. Make sure oil temperatures are at 50 C.
4) Wait until the car fully cools down between runs.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to look at the whole picture here and don't worry, with the help of all members here, we'll get this figured out....
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#10
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a car that gets very poor gas mileage.
Would be nice if there was a CAI solution for the 63.
Perhaps now that the C63 is on the market more tuners will share the love.
Perhaps now that the C63 is on the market more tuners will share the love.
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
#12
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I think an ECU upgrade on the 63 is only worth a 15 hp increase at most; maybe even 20 hp with a custom tune, but that's about it. However the ECU does help make the car feel more alive....... not only by increasing the throttle response, but making the power transition periods much smoother, much quicker. I've driven a RennTech ECU tuned E63 last week, and I definately noticed a difference from my car (which is stock). That being said, I don't think your car is doing that bad.....
Are these numbers SAE corrected? Are they DA corrected?
Almost 90 degrees air temperatures combined with 112 C oil temperatures and already 1800 ft elevation can easily rob you of 20 to 30 hp.
Just to give you an example, last time I was out on the track, I ran the car at different oil temperature levels. When oil temps were around 60 C, I ran 12.7s but then when oil temps went back up to 105 C, the best I could run was 13.1 seconds. As you can see, that's almost half a second slower in a matter of 5 minutes
I would say half a second slower is a lot of hp loss
So yes, DA and altitude will reduce hp.
Dynos only help you to determine effectiveness of mods not how much hp your car makes. I've seen the same car dyno at different shops (my C32 stage 2) with 27 hp difference (and that's only on a 300 hp car, you're dynoing a 500+ hp car, so I'd expect up to 40 hp difference).
The only way you'll be able to tell if ECU helped your car is by running the car at the track a couple of times and compare your results to a stock 63 car. For example, Trez's 63 dynos at 440 hp while Juicee's car dynos at 401 hp, but at the track, both car ran the same numbers. Does that mean a 40 hp increase in Trez's car does nothing?
Try this.......
1) Dyno the car on a very cold day (40 to 50 degrees)
2) Drive the car very hard before you dyno it, so that ECU will adapt to aggressive driving.
3) Let the car cool down before your first dyno run. Make sure oil temperatures are at 50 C.
4) Wait until the car fully cools down between runs.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to look at the whole picture here and don't worry, with the help of all members here, we'll get this figured out....![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Are these numbers SAE corrected? Are they DA corrected?
Almost 90 degrees air temperatures combined with 112 C oil temperatures and already 1800 ft elevation can easily rob you of 20 to 30 hp.
Just to give you an example, last time I was out on the track, I ran the car at different oil temperature levels. When oil temps were around 60 C, I ran 12.7s but then when oil temps went back up to 105 C, the best I could run was 13.1 seconds. As you can see, that's almost half a second slower in a matter of 5 minutes
![EEK!](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Dynos only help you to determine effectiveness of mods not how much hp your car makes. I've seen the same car dyno at different shops (my C32 stage 2) with 27 hp difference (and that's only on a 300 hp car, you're dynoing a 500+ hp car, so I'd expect up to 40 hp difference).
The only way you'll be able to tell if ECU helped your car is by running the car at the track a couple of times and compare your results to a stock 63 car. For example, Trez's 63 dynos at 440 hp while Juicee's car dynos at 401 hp, but at the track, both car ran the same numbers. Does that mean a 40 hp increase in Trez's car does nothing?
Try this.......
1) Dyno the car on a very cold day (40 to 50 degrees)
2) Drive the car very hard before you dyno it, so that ECU will adapt to aggressive driving.
3) Let the car cool down before your first dyno run. Make sure oil temperatures are at 50 C.
4) Wait until the car fully cools down between runs.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm trying to look at the whole picture here and don't worry, with the help of all members here, we'll get this figured out....
![thumbs](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
50c is not normal oil temp and never will be
letting car cool down for every run is also not normal
To me it feels that you are doing all that is in your power to the max the best performance out of the car and is not the consistent performance the car will run at i feel
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Good to try it for fun though, just to see
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#14
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E63 P30, CL500 Sport
Nice info...but in all honesty unreal situation i feel ![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
50c is not normal oil temp and never will be
letting car cool down for every run is also not normal
To me it feels that you are doing all that is in your power to the max the best performance out of the car and is not the consistent performance the car will run at i feel![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Good to try it for fun though, just to see![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
50c is not normal oil temp and never will be
letting car cool down for every run is also not normal
To me it feels that you are doing all that is in your power to the max the best performance out of the car and is not the consistent performance the car will run at i feel
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
Good to try it for fun though, just to see
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
The reason I said 50C is because oil temps in our high compression engines rise very quickly and by the time he lines up in the staging lanes or start a dyno pull, the temperatures will easily be in the 60s again. But if outside air is very cold, oil temps play less of of a role.
#16
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It is hard to say what is consistent or normal. Some people live in areas where in the winter, they'll have average temperatures of around 40 F where they don't need to worry about oil temps as it makes less of a difference if outside air is very cold. Similarly, others live in areas where average temperatures are around 100 F where high performance cars just won't perform up to specifications. I'm not only talking about 63s, but I've seen this make a difference on E55s and C55s on the track.
The reason I said 50C is because oil temps in our high compression engines rise very quickly and by the time he lines up in the staging lanes or start a dyno pull, the temperatures will easily be in the 60s again. But if outside air is very cold, oil temps play less of of a role.
The reason I said 50C is because oil temps in our high compression engines rise very quickly and by the time he lines up in the staging lanes or start a dyno pull, the temperatures will easily be in the 60s again. But if outside air is very cold, oil temps play less of of a role.
Weather effects all cars, yes this is why we have more races in winter time
![naughty](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif)
but the thing about the weather is everyone is effect so
![nix](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/nixweiss.gif)
but oil will never be at 50c in normal everyday driving...