n13

To reduce the amount of time people take searching for the procedure; here is my version:

I have had my IC pump in a failed state for a while, previously i noticed the loud noise from under the driver side headlight after i turned the car off, it would appear that this is a sign of a failing pump.

i have spend hours researching all the pump information so i though id condense my research...

It would appear the pretty much everybody's pump will fail at some point if it is of a certain part number. my failed part number was: A 000 500 01 86 with a date of 19-10-05. the latest pump available at mercedes for a price of £218 + VAT has a part number of A 000 500 03 86.

there is also a part number: A 000 500 48 83 which was replaced by the A 000 500 01 86 according to Mercedes parts catalogue, so this could be the first version of the pump??
Failed pump|A 000 500 01 86 |392 022 003 |19-10-05
New pump. |A 000 500 03 86 |392 022 010 |11-05-10


So i have written the following procedure showing how I did the job. it could well be incorrect, but the pump is working well and car feels stronger that ever!!

here goes:

step 1.

Remove front engine cover. it seemed to be just pushed on some little clip things...



I removed the wheel (drivers side) to make life easier. there are some screws that need to be removed in the wheel arch to allow the plastic to be removed from the arch. I found that I also need to remove the plastic under the front end behind the front bumper.

once all that is removed then the pump is under there:



here is a better view:



pretty much in the middle of that image is a nut that allows the pump to be removed once it itself has been removed (no screw above it, just a slot that the bracket sits in)

Now on to pinching pipes... I didn't have a proper pipe pincher or mole grips so I cable tied two alen keys together tight around the pipe... it worked well, although its a little tight for space...



once this is done, the arduous task of trying to pry the hoses off whilst keeping the clamp on... I had a paint roller tray underneath for coolant spillage (about 100ml?)



I took some images of both the pumps for comparison, the new one was plug and play.







Once the old bits are transferred to the new pump and the new pump is plumbed in (not bolted) (there was a breather hose on the old pump, this isn't required for the new one, but there is a nipple to push it onto.) then you can purge the system of air.

here is my take on it:


I removed the bleed plug from the coolant line to the super charger and put a length of clear silicon hose into the expansion tank:



I hooked up my pump to a PC power supply I had for the 12V, easier said than done as the power pins on the motor are well sunk in, I managed with crocodile clips:





Turn the pump on and wait for the bubbles, I messed around squishing various hoses (the feed to the pump) this forced more coolant down the bleed hose.

I left the pump going for a good 15 mins, it still sounded like there was some cavitation going on in the pump so I may bleed it again at a later date in the hope the air might have risen should there be any.

Put all the cover back and you're sorted!

Well that's my take on the procedure. if you have any additions feel free to add them, I would have loved this help, hope it helps somebody else to cure their car when it goes limp once you're having fun!!

Tech-Tune

Well done, and thanks for the write up.

CEN CAL 28

Great info. Thank you

blackcls63

I like the idea of the 'poor-man's-pipe-pincher'. I'm going to do the same next week on my other car! good idea!

TEFLON434

Will be doing this as well.....

phenoyz

does these engines have the same pump?
(2006 )

5.0L 302 hp (225 kW)

5.4L 469 hp (350 kW)

thanks