DIY M156 Headbolt swap Part 2
#26
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 647
Likes: 120
From: Fort Worth TX
2016 S65, 2014 SLK55 (Previous 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
Keep in mind that if I remember correctly the vehicle needs to be at a middle high rpm range in 3rd gear which is quite a bit of speed. Whether or not this is a problem depends on where you live.
Also the dealer should charge 1 hr for the procedure so you can just pass the problem to them.
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E63w2eleven (10-18-2017)
#30
Hi all,
I just did my head bolts on my w211 E63. I will post more on the process later, but for now, I have a problem. I examined the engine pulley at first. It had a part number on it, it had some numbers such as 3/4 or something like that, then it had 4-5 marks and the last mark had 40 on it. I put the pulley at this 40 degree mark.
Then I took the valve cover off on the driver side and was able to put all the timing tools in place: the back plate, holding device and timing tool. At this point the passenger side cover is not touched. I changed all the bolts one at a time.
Then I went on the passenger side and back plate couldn't be inserted. It was just a little off, maybe 1 mm. I had to rotate the engine another 360 degree and stopped at that same 40 degree. All the timing tools fell in their places now. I didn't re-check the driver side as I had only one timing tool. I replaced bolts on the passenger side and installed everything back.
I started the car and the car is shaking and I am getting flashing check engine light. Did I screw up timing? Would timing tools fit if I wasn't on 40 degree though? Also, I am not sure about the electrical connectors on cam adjuster covers. There are two: top and bottom. I wasn't sure which one was which. Would mixed up electrical connectors on the adjuster cover cause vibrations, or are they the same?
I just did my head bolts on my w211 E63. I will post more on the process later, but for now, I have a problem. I examined the engine pulley at first. It had a part number on it, it had some numbers such as 3/4 or something like that, then it had 4-5 marks and the last mark had 40 on it. I put the pulley at this 40 degree mark.
Then I took the valve cover off on the driver side and was able to put all the timing tools in place: the back plate, holding device and timing tool. At this point the passenger side cover is not touched. I changed all the bolts one at a time.
Then I went on the passenger side and back plate couldn't be inserted. It was just a little off, maybe 1 mm. I had to rotate the engine another 360 degree and stopped at that same 40 degree. All the timing tools fell in their places now. I didn't re-check the driver side as I had only one timing tool. I replaced bolts on the passenger side and installed everything back.
I started the car and the car is shaking and I am getting flashing check engine light. Did I screw up timing? Would timing tools fit if I wasn't on 40 degree though? Also, I am not sure about the electrical connectors on cam adjuster covers. There are two: top and bottom. I wasn't sure which one was which. Would mixed up electrical connectors on the adjuster cover cause vibrations, or are they the same?
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James115 (03-08-2023)
#31
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 647
Likes: 120
From: Fort Worth TX
2016 S65, 2014 SLK55 (Previous 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
If you literally did what you described you have inverted timing between the heads.
Remember the camshaft rotates 1 per every two rotations of the crankshaft.
Remember the camshaft rotates 1 per every two rotations of the crankshaft.
#32
What are my options? How do I get it timed now? Also, would the order of adjuster cover connector make difference? Does it matter which one is top or bottom? I disconnected without marking them first.
#33
Thread Starter
Super Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 647
Likes: 120
From: Fort Worth TX
2016 S65, 2014 SLK55 (Previous 2013 SLK350, 2008 CLS63, 2006 E350, 2006 CLS500, 2005 C230K)
You need to re do the timing, both heads at the same time. You'll need to rotate one set of camshafts manually to get them into position.
The connectors do matter but engine won't shake if you get them wrong, you'll simply get a performance error.
The connectors do matter but engine won't shake if you get them wrong, you'll simply get a performance error.
#34
I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.
Last edited by Rovel; 02-16-2020 at 03:07 PM.
#35
I did my timing again but still getting misfires on two cylinders. I put the engine at 40 degrees. All the cam locking and timing plates fit in their respective positions just fine. Didn’t have to turn cams or anything. What else should I be checking for? I checked the electrical connections too.
#38
Thanks to this forum I replaced head bolts one at a time and made a DIY video https://youtu.be/zJO1qNnhxw4
#39
My pulley has so many marks and numbers on it: 3-5, 440, 480 HZ. There are also bunch of unnumbered marks followed by the one that says 40 on it. That’s what I used - the 40 mark. Is that the one I should be using?
I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.
I set it to 40 and was able to insert cam locking tools on the driver side. However I couldn’t insert the plate on the passenger side as it was off by 1mm. I turned the engine 360 degrees twice and now was able to lock the cams.