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Picked up a set of Vossen VSF1s today 19x8.5 et 30 front and 19x10 et 36 rear.
The replica 507 wheels with pretty worn Hankook Ventus V12s weighed:
Front: 48.8 lbs
Rear: 50.2 lbs
Looking at TireRack for tire weight, the Ventus V12s 255/35/19s are 23 lbs front and 28 lbs rear
So the not highly accurate weight for the wheels is around 25.8 lbs front, 22.2 lbs rear
The Vossen VSF1s with Continental Extreme Contacts weighted:
Front: 48.8 lbs
Rear: 49.6 lbs
Looking at TireRack for tire weight, the Extreme Contact 285/30/19s are 24 lbs front and 26 lbs rear
So the not highly accurate weight for the wheels is around 24.8 lbs front and 23.6 rear
Even though they are not the OEM offsets, the VSF1s do look better fitment wise than the replica wheels and with the 10" rear now I'm wondering if I might be able to squeeze a 295 in the back when the tires wear out.
I think I'm going to try a larger heat exchanger instead of a split cooling kit.. my IATS today were 170-179 with ambient being 90F here in Vancouver. Still waiting for the Bosch pump get here although the factory pump works I don't think it''s doing the job. You had mentioned in my thread that this is the tried and true method.. really hoping this works for me. Does anyone else find it odd that the difference is so high between ambient and IAT?
I think I'm going to try a larger heat exchanger instead of a split cooling kit.. my IATS today were 170-179 with ambient being 90F here in Vancouver. Still waiting for the Bosch pump get here although the factory pump works I don't think it''s doing the job. You had mentioned in my thread that this is the tried and true method.. really hoping this works for me. Does anyone else find it odd that the difference is so high between ambient and IAT?
With IATs that high it doesn't sound like your factory pump is working. Have you tested it at all to verify that it is? Cruising around i'm usually between 15-20 degrees over ambient and when doing a pull even in the heat I'm only seeing IATs in the mid 140s with recovery back down to 20 degrees over ambient about a minute or two after. Of course down here in Texas my day starts at 95 degree IATs in the AM and usually around 109-115 in the afternoon.
I get to about 178f in 80-90f ambient when beating on it(track/drag/hard street). If I have done some hard pulls I am around 27f over ambient when it has 'recovered'. I have been assuming people claiming 10f over ambient 'cruising' with a HE upgrade mean before they have driven hard and heatsoaked the engine which is a irrelevant figure for me..
Those numbers are just me cruising around normally after its's fully warmed up. Literally just went to Costco and back and that's what I was seeing. Darn, maybe the pump isn't working.. .it sure sounded like it was. After letting up after a hard pull I get a drop of 5-10 degrees but that's it, there's always at least 50 degree F difference between IAT and ambient temp since I picked this car up (approx. 3 weeks ago). Haven't felt the full power of this car yet
Yeah mate usually u get 1-3 pulls to like 80mph going full throttle before the power drops. Ur pump defo fu*ked they can still make noise and pump f*ck all water
Welp, the big one finally happened at 105,xxx miles. 15,000 miles since I've owned the car and the front passenger side air strut died today. Rather than replace just one component, I decided to go whole hog to get some piece of mind with the rest of the air suspension. Ordered the following from www.rockauto.com which was significantly cheaper than www.fcpeuro.com and www.pelicanparts.com.
2 OEM Bilstein front struts (The reason here is that I wanted to retain the OEM ADS functionality that Arnotts does not keep)
2 OEM Bilstein rear shocks
2 Arnott rear air springs (The reason here is that the design is supposedly better than OEM, doesn't impact the ADS functionality, and labor costs are lower to install)
Came out to a little over $2500 shipped
I also had Eurocharged ATX order a new valve block for me as they recommended changing this as well as they are known to fail and if it did fail, it could damage the new parts.
Everything should be in Tuesday and I'll have to coordinate getting a tow up to the shop. Sucks but I had a feeling that they were going to go relatively soon.
So far so good with the new suspension. I can't believe I didn't do the sooner, the original suspension must have been pretty beat as the car feels much more planted and firm. ADS is fully functional since I stayed with Bilstein for the front struts and rear shocks. It wasn't that much more expensive than going full Arnotts but maintaining the ADS was a must for me. For folks replacing suspension components on the high mileage cars, you might as well replace the valve block as well since it isn't that expensive and you wouldn't want to have that malfunction and pop a bag.
Isnt the valve block a passive distributor and the pressure entering suspension regulated via the individual suspension component itself? I havent had a close look at the block is it plugged into the electricals?
Isnt the valve block a passive distributor and the pressure entering suspension regulated via the individual suspension component itself? I havent had a close look at the block is it plugged into the electricals?
That I'm not sure of, I am going off what I was told by the folks at Eurocharged. There was recently another thread in the E55 forum where someone replaced all the suspension components only to have one of the bags burst shortly after. That was one of the things that Adam warned me about.
Looks like you might be right. Pictures of the block have a few electrical connections and here is the diagram. Looks like the entire system can be depressurized by the block which might cause the self-regulating suspension components to 'bug out'.
Not much new other than repairing some damage the car took a week or so ago. A softball sized rock crushed the lower grill in front of the heat exchanger pushing it back and flattening about 7 inches of fins. Ended up needing to get the grill and the heat exchanger replaced. While I was at the shop I started looking at moving up to an 82mm throttle body, MBH's monster heat exchanger, and converting the intercooler to a single pass. That isn't going to be cheap but that is about all I can think of doing to the car at the moment.
First cold snap of the year and I found out that my heater only intermittently works. Based on searching through this site the heater changeover valve is the likely suspect. Since I was going to have to remove the cowl by the windshield I went ahead and ordered a new one since the rubber along the base of the windshield is cracked and deteriorating.
I originally ordered the parts from www.mboemparts.com Which is Mercedes of Naperville. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PLACE UNLESS YOU WANT TO WASTE YOUR TIME. They cancelled my order citing that they cannot ship if the billing address and shipping address do not match. The parts person was pretty rude when I called to ask what happened and why they could not ship.
I ended up placing a new order with www.mbonllineparts.com instead.
The heater changeover valve part number was: 211-832-05-84 (this is for cars not equipped with the aux heating option) The W219 cowl grill part number was: 219-830-07-13 (this is the new part number that replaces: 219-830-07-13)
It took a bit of time digging around on the site and some phone calls to verify the part numbers so fingers crossed they're correct but hopefully it saves someone some time down the road.
Been spending way too much time reading old threads on this site about the 82mm throttle body upgrade, single pass intercoolers, and pump upgrades. At this point I am considering the following in order:
1) Upgrade the Bosch 010 pump to the CWA-100-3 pump. Upgrade the wiring to the pump to handle the extra load and run this as constant on (no waiting until the ecu tells the pump to turn on). The reasoning here is I'd like to really see how much more of an improvement in recovery time just an upgraded pump could do leaving the intercooler in its stock triple pass design.
2) 82mm throttle body upgrade. I still haven't decided on where to source the parts from and I'm a bit worried about the dreaded hiccup but at the end of the day this is probably my final performance modification. I'm hoping to pick up a little of the low end torque I lost going to long tube headers and *maybe* some improvement in the mpg department.
3) Custom dyno tune. Up until now I've been running the canned Eurocharged tunes pretty successfully. I feel that going with a custom tune should eek out all the HP/TQ that could be left on the table.
I know that I could run a big trunk or engine tank but I really don't feel like adding more weight and complexity to the car. It is primarily a daily driver that doesn't see any time at the drag strip.
I'm surprised the HP with all the mods is only 506. My son and I bought a CLS55 (also white) that we took a gamble on ... and it did need a replacement engine. You think you really need the 550 injectors? I'm thinking of the killer chiller system and a 83 or 77 pulley. We now have LTH (with ceramic coating and X pipe) straight to the stock mufflers and a eurocharged tune; thoughts? thanks!
Only NEED 550cc if you pair an upgrade TB or crank pulley with that 77/83 supercharger pulley. Check my mods list I'm on stock injectors with no probs at sea level
I'm surprised the HP with all the mods is only 506. My son and I bought a CLS55 (also white) that we took a gamble on ... and it did need a replacement engine. You think you really need the 550 injectors? I'm thinking of the killer chiller system and a 83 or 77 pulley. We now have LTH (with ceramic coating and X pipe) straight to the stock mufflers and a eurocharged tune; thoughts? thanks!
From what I've seen on all the dynos 506 is in the ballpark for what these cars should be making with those mods. The 550s are just some extra insurance for my mods and that I live in Texas. I'm not running a ton of boost with the 83mm pulley and most of my mods are around improving the efficiency of the engine without adding boost. I'll be going to an 82mm throttle body and a custom dyno tune which should finish out my power mods.
Only NEED 550cc if you pair an upgrade TB or crank pulley with that 77/83 supercharger pulley. Check my mods list I'm on stock injectors with no probs at sea level
Do you have any dynos or at least some air/fuel logging to see how rich/lean you're running under boost?
07-21-2019, 05:10 PM
