After researching many sources , and being led astray, the straight answer for this model is to remove the front driver side wheel liner and the front lower chassis panel, and make a long hook rod that can extend up into the engine cavity area. You will need a strong light to see up into the cavity area. There you'll see two cables (you must look hard to see them}. Block the interior hood pull fully open by using towels. Pull each cable with the long hook you made and that should unlatch the hood mechanisms'.. The other alternative is to undo the interior hood opening latch by first removing the lower dash panel (three star screws) and pulling the interior latch cable. Once you get the hood open, generously lube the laches and cables (assuming they're not broken}, At this time these cables are not in stock (OEM) with no date on their availability. You will NOT be able to see the hood catch levers as they are totally enclosed in sheet metal.......contrary to what's being told by other internet sources. In my case the problem arose after I removed the radiator brace, replaced the two cable holding clips, and did not route the cable around the front of the radiator area. This caused excessive cable slack and the interior pull lever just wouldn't work. I spent excessive hours working this one out. The actual correction time was short and quick. Hoping other members will benefit from my agonizing experience. I almost cut the hood open from the frustration.

Now onward to a pesky P016 DTC after a cam adjuster rebuild.............seems a common occurrence but no one seems to have the solution.