performance degrading with rims?
04-03-2005, 10:42 AM
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performance degrading with rims?
I'm bout 2 weeks closer to getting my c32 (hopefully). I been looking at rims (19inch). Bremmas, truxton's (sp?)...and my question is if I were to get these.....how would the performance of the car be? Handling I'm not too much worried about, but what about speed? How much more heavier are these rims than the stock amg's?
04-03-2005, 12:55 PM
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2002 C32 Black/Charcoal
It's not the size of the rim that matters, it is the weight. Stock wheels weigh roughly 25 lbs. each. If you buy 19s that weigh 30 lbs. each, it is like carrying 80 extra lbs. around in your car (each pound of wheel weight is equal to 4 lbs. of weight inside of the car).
My personal feeling is that 19s on a C32 are illogical. They (arguably) look better, but they are usually heavy (unless you spend a ton) and they usually rub with passengers in the car.
IMO, 18s are plenty large, are easier to find tires for, and lighter, and don't cause rubbing issues.
My personal feeling is that 19s on a C32 are illogical. They (arguably) look better, but they are usually heavy (unless you spend a ton) and they usually rub with passengers in the car.
IMO, 18s are plenty large, are easier to find tires for, and lighter, and don't cause rubbing issues.
04-03-2005, 01:25 PM
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C55AMG W203; 330i E90
19" look more sporty than 18" but it does not mean it looks best on the W203. 19" looks best on W211. So, see if you want sporty looking or best looking. I have no comments on performance side.
:p
:p
04-03-2005, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Vomit
It's not the size of the rim that matters, it is the weight. Stock wheels weigh roughly 25 lbs. each. If you buy 19s that weigh 30 lbs. each, it is like carrying 80 extra lbs. around in your car (each pound of wheel weight is equal to 4 lbs. of weight inside of the car).
My personal feeling is that 19s on a C32 are illogical. They (arguably) look better, but they are usually heavy (unless you spend a ton) and they usually rub with passengers in the car.
IMO, 18s are plenty large, are easier to find tires for, and lighter, and don't cause rubbing issues.
My personal feeling is that 19s on a C32 are illogical. They (arguably) look better, but they are usually heavy (unless you spend a ton) and they usually rub with passengers in the car.
IMO, 18s are plenty large, are easier to find tires for, and lighter, and don't cause rubbing issues.
To the ppl out there with 19's.....is your car considerbly slower? And do you incur rubbing?
04-03-2005, 06:45 PM
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Mine rub a little when I drive aggressively with people in the car. WHen I am alone or with a single passenger no issue at all. The car does handle better, better feedback. Not like its a Porsche or and S2000 to begin with so wasn't looking for a huge improvement. The added weight should slightly dimish the responsiveness of the suspension and if it did effect speed its my guess you wouldn't notice.
hmmm....lol yall got me second guessing these 19's
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04-03-2005, 07:36 PM
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white and whiter
if you want performance along w/ some look, go w/ the 18s. 19s are mostly just for looks. I'm getting my 19s in May, we'll see how heavy it is. Don't care much about performance these day as I don't track my car at all or do hill runs a lot.
as far as how much the bigger rims makes the car slower probably not a whole lot.
as far as how much the bigger rims makes the car slower probably not a whole lot.
Last edited by FrankW; 04-03-2005 at 07:41 PM.
04-03-2005, 07:56 PM
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If I plan on doing the ECU and pulley..then me loosing some accleration speed should be mute right? I just dont wanna get beat by some car...and then have my excuse be that my rims are too heavy.
04-03-2005, 08:31 PM
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'15 E350 4M Sport
Originally Posted by nlacey
If I plan on doing the ECU and pulley..then me loosing some accleration speed should be mute right? I just dont wanna get beat by some car...and then have my excuse be that my rims are too heavy.
Rgds,
Norm
04-03-2005, 09:01 PM
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2002 C32 Black/Charcoal
Boulevard Cruising/Pimping/Pretend Your 5-Seater Is A 3 Seater Because If You Have Three Rear Passengers Who Are Not Ethiopian You Are Going To Rub The Treads Right Off Your Tires=19s
Go Fast/Race/Look Custom But Not Pimp/Be Able To Carry 3 Fatasses In The Rear Seat And Still Have Tires In The Morning=18s
Too Puzzy To Decide=Stick With Stock
Go Fast/Race/Look Custom But Not Pimp/Be Able To Carry 3 Fatasses In The Rear Seat And Still Have Tires In The Morning=18s
Too Puzzy To Decide=Stick With Stock
04-03-2005, 09:36 PM
#14
The fender gap will be the same regardless of wheel size as measured from the top of the tire to the fender lip. The rolling circumference is the same (+or-.50") as adjusted by the tires lower profile as you go up in wheel size.
If the tire is going to rub because of tire side wall shape or incorrect wheel offset, it doesn't matter if it is 15" or 19" in diameter. There is a point with 19's and wrong offset with a lowered stance where the wheel may come in contact with the fender lip under suspension compression. Remember that in relation to the center of the hub, a 19" wheel is 1" closer to the fender lip than a 17" wheel. If you are rubbing the Pirelli logo off the side wall of the stock wheel/tire combo, you may have a problem with wheel contact as you move to 19's. If you have no rubbing with the stock set up, you should have no rubbing with 18's or 19's if the offset places the outside of the wheel at the same point as stock. The problem lays with trying to go too large with wheel widths and tire width and offsets. If you are deciding to go 8.5/9.5 or even 8.5/10.0, offset is critical. Speak to a wheel specialist that has done work on your particular car before to prevent a "wrong" purchase. Good luck.
If the tire is going to rub because of tire side wall shape or incorrect wheel offset, it doesn't matter if it is 15" or 19" in diameter. There is a point with 19's and wrong offset with a lowered stance where the wheel may come in contact with the fender lip under suspension compression. Remember that in relation to the center of the hub, a 19" wheel is 1" closer to the fender lip than a 17" wheel. If you are rubbing the Pirelli logo off the side wall of the stock wheel/tire combo, you may have a problem with wheel contact as you move to 19's. If you have no rubbing with the stock set up, you should have no rubbing with 18's or 19's if the offset places the outside of the wheel at the same point as stock. The problem lays with trying to go too large with wheel widths and tire width and offsets. If you are deciding to go 8.5/9.5 or even 8.5/10.0, offset is critical. Speak to a wheel specialist that has done work on your particular car before to prevent a "wrong" purchase. Good luck.
04-03-2005, 09:59 PM
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2002 C32 Black/Charcoal
Originally Posted by smgC32
The fender gap will be the same regardless of wheel size as measured from the top of the tire to the fender lip. The rolling circumference is the same (+or-.50") as adjusted by the tires lower profile as you go up in wheel size.
If the tire is going to rub because of tire side wall shape or incorrect wheel offset, it doesn't matter if it is 15" or 19" in diameter. There is a point with 19's and wrong offset with a lowered stance where the wheel may come in contact with the fender lip under suspension compression. Remember that in relation to the center of the hub, a 19" wheel is 1" closer to the fender lip than a 17" wheel. If you are rubbing the Pirelli logo off the side wall of the stock wheel/tire combo, you may have a problem with wheel contact as you move to 19's. If you have no rubbing with the stock set up, you should have no rubbing with 18's or 19's if the offset places the outside of the wheel at the same point as stock. The problem lays with trying to go too large with wheel widths and tire width and offsets. If you are deciding to go 8.5/9.5 or even 8.5/10.0, offset is critical. Speak to a wheel specialist that has done work on your particular car before to prevent a "wrong" purchase. Good luck.
If the tire is going to rub because of tire side wall shape or incorrect wheel offset, it doesn't matter if it is 15" or 19" in diameter. There is a point with 19's and wrong offset with a lowered stance where the wheel may come in contact with the fender lip under suspension compression. Remember that in relation to the center of the hub, a 19" wheel is 1" closer to the fender lip than a 17" wheel. If you are rubbing the Pirelli logo off the side wall of the stock wheel/tire combo, you may have a problem with wheel contact as you move to 19's. If you have no rubbing with the stock set up, you should have no rubbing with 18's or 19's if the offset places the outside of the wheel at the same point as stock. The problem lays with trying to go too large with wheel widths and tire width and offsets. If you are deciding to go 8.5/9.5 or even 8.5/10.0, offset is critical. Speak to a wheel specialist that has done work on your particular car before to prevent a "wrong" purchase. Good luck.
If you buy 19s they will rub. Do a search for anyone who has put 19s on their car without rubbing. The result will be "none"
Ricky AKA "VRAA" points to the Flik Artics. Couldn't agree more. Have them on my car. They are cheap, and look/run awesome. You should be able to negotiate a better deal than $188/wheel for the 18s (I would shoot for $500-$600 for a set of four with shipping) with edgeracing.com.
04-03-2005, 11:25 PM
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2006 E55
Originally Posted by Vomit
Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah
If you buy 19s they will rub. Do a search for anyone who has put 19s on their car without rubbing. The result will be "none"
If you buy 19s they will rub. Do a search for anyone who has put 19s on their car without rubbing. The result will be "none"
04-03-2005, 11:46 PM
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C32
I think that Vadim said that they loks 10WHP with 19s. Also, it is not just the weight on 19s that hurts performance it is also where the weight is on the wheel. If you took physics you might remember the Moment of Inertia theory. Here is a bit more info on this:
I have 19s for the street, and I run my stock wheels when racing. Since I use my S2000 for AutoXing and such, I run drag radials on the rear stock wheels. I can tell you that there is a BIG difference in accelleration between the SSR/PS2 setup I have and the Stock/DR setup, even though the overall weight of the SSR/PS2 setup is lighter.
Rotating weight affects acceleration on non-driven wheels just as much as on driven wheels. All of the wheels have to be accelerated, regardless of whether they are connected to the drive shaft or not. Wheel weight does not count 4 times, though. Any mass along the axle centerline counts once, as if it were attached to the car’s frame. Any mass on the outside perimeter of the tire counts double. All other wheel mass is somewhere between 1X and 2X, depending on how far it is from the center of the wheel. So, if you have a 10 pound wheel with a 20 pound tire, it will, in effect “weigh” more than a 20 pound wheel with a 10 pound tire. Consider only the wheel/tire combo (I will refer to the wheel/tire combo as simply the “wheel”). To get the wheel rolling, you must do two things: accelerate the wheel’s mass in the direction of straight-line travel, and spin the wheel. I’m sure all of you know the equation F=ma, or (Force) = (mass)*(acceleration). This applies to the straight-line acceleration part. To spin the wheel, you use the equation (moment) = (mass moment of inertia)*(angular acceleration). The mass moment of inertia depends on the mass and diameter of the wheel and where that mass is distributed in the wheel (i.e. how much of the mass is close to the center and how much is closer to the perimeter). For simplicity (and to assume the worst case scenario), assume that ALL of the wheel’s weight is concentrated along the outer perimeter of the wheel. Then (mass moment of inertia) = (mass)*(radius)^2. Putting these two equations together gives you (moment) = (mass)*(radius)^2*(angular acceleration). Because (moment) = (force)*(radius), you can substitute this into the equation to get (force)*(radius) = (mass)*(radius)^2*(angular acceleration). Divide by (radius) on both sides to get (force) = (mass)*(radius)*(angular acceleration). Since (angular acceleration) = (acceleration)/(radius), you can substitute in and get (force) = (mass)*(radius)*(acceleration)/(radius). Radius cancels, and you get (force) = (mass)*(acceleration). (Note that this is the same equation as the one we used for straight-line acceleration). So… the TOTAL force needed to get the wheel rolling equals the force required to accelerate the wheel’s mass in the direction of straight-line travel, plus the force required spin the wheel. (Total force) = (straight-line-acceleration force) + (spin-the-wheel force) = (mass)*(acceleration) + (mass)*(acceleration) = 2*(mass)*(acceleration). In other words, a pound of weight in the outer perimeter of the wheel (in the tire’s tread) is worth 2 pounds attached to the frame.
04-03-2005, 11:47 PM
#20
If you got massively overweight rims, then you'd feel it'd be slower. Other wise, stock AMG's are 28lbs (i think). It's hard to find rims heavier then that... unless of course you get Brabus, those fat *******s 
04-04-2005, 12:12 AM
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'14 428i M-Sport, '02 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by psk145
I've got 19's with no rubbing at all
04-04-2005, 01:18 AM
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2002 C32 Black/Charcoal
Wow, lots of forum members reporting no probs with 19s. I may be wrong about the 19" rubbing then. I had never heard of anyone with 19s that did not have rubbing, but now stand corrected.
I would send emails to these guys who have been successful with their 19s, and find out their wheel/tire/suspension combos. Follow their leads.
As I understand it, the tires can make a big diff too. T1s are narrow and rounded (prevents rubbing) whereas other tires are more square and more likely to rub. Do your research before investing!
I would send emails to these guys who have been successful with their 19s, and find out their wheel/tire/suspension combos. Follow their leads.
As I understand it, the tires can make a big diff too. T1s are narrow and rounded (prevents rubbing) whereas other tires are more square and more likely to rub. Do your research before investing!
04-04-2005, 01:45 AM
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2006 E55
Vomit's right about the tire choices. I have T1's and they dont rub. A more square tire looks like it may rub, but cant say for sure without buying a set and trying it. I wont though, since the T1s fit, I'll probably just stick with these. Id be pissed to buy a set of PS2s and end up with rubbing issues and $1K+ out of my pocket.
04-04-2005, 02:11 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by nlacey
I'm bout 2 weeks closer to getting my c32 (hopefully). I been looking at rims (19inch). Bremmas, truxton's (sp?)...and my question is if I were to get these.....how would the performance of the car be? Handling I'm not too much worried about, but what about speed? How much more heavier are these rims than the stock amg's?
Also, i hope you are not thinking that adding 19" wheels will make you feel like you bought a C240 as far as performance. The difference is usually not even noticable unless maybe you are on a track.
