Bif powell

My dealer says my brake pads and rotors need to be replaced. First off, if the rotors need to be replaced, wouldn't that be a warranty thing? I can see the pads being a regular maintenance item, but rotors?

Anyways, they are saying ~$800 for new pads/rotors installed. I would like to do this piece of easy maintenance myself, but I thought, hey - take this opportunity to upgrade the entire system just a little bit.

My understanding is that the brake system on this car is basically brembo and very good, but I would take advice on that angle. I do autocrossing and some road racing, but it's like 5-10 times a years depending on scheduling.

First, where can I buy straight replacement rotors and pads and what's a good deal?

I thought about the porterfield pads, but will I feel a difference in daily driving or are those just for when things get really hot? Will I feel a difference with my modest racing habits?

I also thought about steel-braided brake lines and this seems like a very cheap and easy thing to do that would connect me a little more to the car/wheels/rubber/road.

What about brake fluid? A guy I know that has similarly modest racing opportunities, races his M3 and says when he road races he noticed a difference between his early racing in factory fluid and what he has now that resists heating and keeps from becoming vapor and therefor more compressible than fluid.

Anyways, looking for general tips/advice on this equipment and procedure.

edit:fixed a typo in the subject that was driving me crazy

Bif powell

So like would these:

http://oem.overnightautoparts.com/pa...ory=N&dp=false

be any good?

And would anyone have any experience with the green pads and red pads, etc...?

http://oem.overnightautoparts.com/pa...gory=N&dp=true

Bif

Trekman

make sure they are xdrilled and would fit our cars

A-Pod

i need new brake pads (mine are at 35%) - any recommendations?

alumar

Stoptech Search

Just use the drop down for the Mercedes C32 AMG - hit select all on all products for our car

There are a crap-ton (TM!) of options on their for our car. The complete systems are expensive, but if you piece it together its not to bad.

I have recently replaced my pads with the Stoptech/BHP XPS pads... holy crap what a diff! The change was like night and day, absolutly no fade at all... I actually think the rotor will melt before the pads overheat.

Bif powell

And those stoptech pads will fit our stock calipers?

alumar

Negative, need to get the 4piston caliper replacement, brakelines - about 1 thousand in parts for front brakes.

They are 'working' on a pad replacement with stock caliper.

Fifth Ring

First, don't believe that you need new rotors. If you are not experiencing vibration, and there are no visible cracks, then you should be able to replace pads alone.

I have found two alternatives to MB pads. First is Axxis Ceramic from TireRack. I'm told that they are good for street use, but people who have used them HARD (tracking/autocross) have had problems with deposits. The other is EBC Red Stuff Ceramics which I have on the car. They are GREAT pads, and survived a 2 day track session. They do not give the same initial bite as stock pads, but they handle high-heat situations very well.

I have a set of Axxis Ceramics that I will send you for $20 (basically shipping) if you want them.

Bif powell

This is great info. The rotors look like they are worn some, but I experience no vibrations on braking, it will pull one way or another at low speeds...not any way in particular, seems to pull to whichever way the car was pointed every-so-slightly at the time. I'll take you up on the offer of the pads you have, and that's most appreciated. I'll PM you. I'll post back here if you're box is full.

I'll take pics of my rotors when I get the car back and you guys can let me know what you think.

Thanks!

A-Pod

i just want the cheapest pads that will fit my car without dropping a ridiculous ammount of money on extra converters to fit the calipers - that's just absurd. i have my credit card in hand along with paypal and i really don't want to spend any time figuring this out. anyone?

Bif powell

Maybe here? I don't know, it's just a place that popped up in google.

http://oem.overnightautoparts.com/pa...gory=N&dp=true

One thing though, does anyone know if I need to do this somehow before taking this simple task on?

"Important: SBC brake system MUST be deactivated using SBD 102 or Mercedes Star Diagnosis tool. When activated, the SBC brake system builds up high pressure in the brake system. The automatic extension of the caliper pistons may result in serious bodily injury. Brake pressure may cause brake fluid to escape at high pressure, with possible resulting damage or injury. Maintenance or repair work must NEVER be performed on an active SBC brake system."

whoover

C32/C55 do not have SBC (Sensotronic Brake Controllers). They are the brake-by-wire systems on the E and SL-class cars that almost put Mercedes out of business with reliability issues. While much of that has been fixed, the brake feel of Sensotronic is quite controversial. Mercedes has dropped the system. The maintenance issues (pad change being a life-threatening activity) is the least of the problem with SBC, and one that C drivers have avoided.

A-Pod

so should i be able to do this, or do i need to take it in and get charged for diagnostics?

alumar

Sent an email to the sales guys I worked with for the brake upgrade.

Michael,



We do carry pads for you ’02 C32 AMG in a variety of compounds. Our “go-to” street pad that we include in all of our big brake kits is the Axxis Ultimate which offers the higher performance per dollar although it is on the dusty side. Axxis also makes a very low dust pad called the Deluxe Plus although it has much less initial bite than the Ultimates. We also offer a pad called the PosiQuiet Semi Metallic which has bite and dust levels in between that of the Deluxe Plus and Ultimates making it a nice middle ground pad for daily driving. Pricing and part numbers are listed below:



Front



Axxis Ultimate 109.08470 $132.90

Axxis Deluxe Plus 107.08470 $89.50

PosiQuiet Semi Metallic 104.08470 $47.50



Rear



Axxis Ultimate 109.06030 $47.95

Axxis Deluxe Plus 107.06030 $31.50

PosiQuiet Semi Metallic 104.06030 $31.65



We also carry pads from other manufacturers which can be viewed here: http://www.stoptech.com/products/hig...nce_pads.shtml but the 3 I have listed are all a great place to start



Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.



Thanks,



Erik Steinkamp

StopTech LLC

310.325.4799 x120

www.stoptech.com

AIM: BrakesNotBreaks





-legal jargon deleted-


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Carter, Michael [mailto:Michael.Carter@xanheuser-busch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2006 6:13 AM
To: Sales
Subject: Pads

Erik

Which Stoptech Pads will fit a 2002 C32 Mercedes AMG stock calipers again? Right out of the box, no changes, just pads.



Michael D Carter
Branch Manager, Information Technology
Anheuser-Busch Inc.
Louisville WOD

whoover

I've never done the pad change on a C AMG so I don't know what other complications might arise. When my C55 needs brake work, I will probably have the dealer do it. But the dangerous SBC stuff won't be an issue. Perhaps someone with experience will weigh in.

m3_eater

What about a low-dust pad for daily driving (non-track use)? I've heard of people using them to replace the very dusty OEM ones, and I wonder if they have decent performance. Has anyone here tried them?

Zeppelin

Funny how you chose not to delete this paragraph

Zeppelin

Anyone willing to try some of these AXIS pads. I spent $172 on the Porterfields and had to remove them. They definitely had less dust than the stockers but they squeeled like a 10 year old.

alumar

lol legal jargon

Fifth Ring

Correction to my earlier post:

In addition to EBC RedStuff, I have Akebono Euro Ceramics (not Axxis as I said in my message). Akebono is popular with the Subaru crowd, and sells their stuff through TireRack.

Fifth Ring

Squeal does not necessarily mean bad pads. If you don't mount them right, and don't use anti-squeal goo, and don't bed them in correctly, you get squeal.

There are some great tech articles at www.stoptech.com describing the importance of bedding in brakes. It's actually a cleaning process that helps brake function that can be done periodically throughout the life of the pads.

Zeppelin

Did all that and it did not help. I just put them on before I head to the track now days. Also funny how I can go back and forth between the stockers and RS-4 and the stockers never squeal yet the RS-4's are unbearable. And the disc's have been bedded in with the RS-4's not the stock ones.

Fifth Ring

I wonder how new car makers manage to pump out millions of cars that do not have squealing brakes. Do they bed them at the factory, or is there some other trick?

dsC32

I was using Cobalt Racing's Spec VR pads on the track, but they no longer make them as they are converting to another pad. They recommended Hawk racing pads which worked well over three days last month. I can't recall the specific pad (H-10?) but can check it if you want to know the specific pad. They make about 10 different pads for various applications. The only problem I had with the Hawk pads was the long dimension was about 1/16 inch too much, so had to grind off the ends slightly to fit the C55 caliper. It dropped right in after grinding off a little metal. I replace with stock pads for street use.

Bif powell

I was told I might need a special tool to remove the retaining screw on the rotors. Is this the case, and what is it?

Thanks!