Many times my C32 feels very sluggish. It ususally happens when I turn a corner or sometimes when the car starts to move from a stop. In these situations, I have to push the accelerator quite a bit before the car feels like it has any power. I have had my car for three years without this problem and now I find driving it a little frustrating.

I took the car in for service and they checked the intercooler pump, all the sensors, and reflashed the ECU. The car still has the problem. The service shop manger says he has received a few complaints about sluggishness in other C32s but doesn't know what causes it.

Does anyone have a fix for this problem? I have tried the foot to the floor for five seconds with the key in the second position and then waiting 2 minutes with the key in the off position, but unfortunately this doesn't help.

 

Give us some more info.

Does it happen only after you have driven for awhile, or is it irrespective of time driven?

More in hot weather?

Did the prob start all of a sudden, or over time?

How many miles on the car?

 

yes i have the same problem here!!!

when the car starts for the first time, it's great, but as soon you slow down/stop, and then you start moving again, the car becomes really slow!!!

switching off the ignition and restarting the car would fix the problem, then again it become slower if have you stopped the car for traffic light etc

the sluggishness comes as soon as you start moving after you have stopped/slow down

my car has 58000kms/36000miles

 

It happens irrespective of time driven.
It happens in both hot and cool weather.
The problem started all of a sudden about 2 months ago.
The car has been driven 81,000 km / 50,000 mi.

 

i have the same prob. you would be driving the car and then come to a stop and go to take off and the car feels like it doesnt want to move so i pull over and i shut it off and restart it... then it back to normal and sometimes it comes back. happens once in a while.

 

I am trying to come up with an answer. I am shocked that the tekkie contingent in this forum is not piping up.

So, for everyone who is having this problem, it sounds like all of the following are true:

It happens even if you have only been driving your car for one minute, and the car is still cold.

It happens in the lower RPM range, before the supercharger is supposed to engage (2900 RPMs)

It happens only after you stop or nearly stop.

It does not happen on the highway, even if you are going a steady 90 MPH/145 KMH.

It is temporarily cured by turning the car off, but only till you stop again.

True for everyone?

 

all those are true but mine happens when the car is hot and when u floor the car it goes no were and the rpms go up very slow feels like the car has 50hp

 

im thinking the intercooler pump

 

only these three are true in my situation, i'm calling warranty department today and see if they can come up with with some solutions, i'll keep ya'll updated

 

very likely ic pump. see other thread "1fast C32's pump replacement"

 

The engine temperature doesn't seem to matter.
RPMs are low when it happens.
It happens at lower speeds. It hasn't happened at highway speeds.
Turning the engine off does not fix the problem.

 

I had a similar loss of power recently; it was a plugged fuel filter. Change the fuel filter first before you do any repairs.

Transmission related
The only component that I know of, with a key reset function is the transmission. Your lack of power could be a fault in the transmission, setting a limp mode code, Transmission stuck in one gear, the gear that the fault occurred with no up shift. You said it also happens when you turn a corner, the transmission could be low on fluid, Check the transmission level.


The first procedure in diagnosing any drivability problem is to scan all modules for any codes, with CAN communications; all modules see and hear each other, meaning a problem in the engine control module can affect the operation of the transmission module

Engine related;

The shop which serviced your car, did they do a road test with the scanner connected looking at data parameters, like Ignition timing advancing at wide opening throttle., intake air temperature and more.

Another useful parameter is short term fuel trim control factor; this is the Lambda control for the left and right upstream cat, a lean mixture can cause a loss or power

You can determine air fuel ratio. 1.0 lambda is the base starting point. Readings over 1.0 represents a lean condition with a rich correction, increase in injector time, Some Causes; a vacuum leak, plugged fuel filter, low fuel pressure caused by a failing fuel pump or dirty fuel injectors.

Readings lower than 1.0 represents a rich condition with a lean correction, reduced injector time. Some Causes; A leaking injector, fuel pressure regulator or damper.

.


I had a similar loss of power recently,

I drop my car off at my MB dealer for the ECU flash and replacing the air pump relay with the updated version. Under service campaign # 2006-030011, this applies to models 170/199/203/211/215/219/220/230/ 463 AMG MY 02-06.

On my way home, I turned onto RT 84 moved into the left lane, thinking about all of the post I have read about loss of engine power with this ECU flash.

I passed a car and then, I felt a power loss, like the engine drop two cylinders, it felt just like a clogged cat or fuel filter. I changed the fuel filter and it feels like a new car. The mileage on the car is 39,586.

CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER OFTEN.

 

I think the problem is transmission related. After answering Vomits questions and reading C32AMG/02 post, I starting thinking the problem is transmission related.

I tried the following:
Manually shift the transmission to 1st if stopped and manually downshift when turning a corner. When I do this, the car is never sluggish. I suspect the transmission does not automatically downshift to the proper gear on occasion. This causes the car to lug along in a high gear at low RPMS (supercharger does not engage) and the car feels sluggish.

I took the car in today to have a RennTech pulley and ECU installed. They will have to disconnect the battery, so the transmission may reset itself. If it does not reset, I will take it to the dealership to have it reset and any upgrades installed.

I will let everyone know the results.

 

wow.. Stage 1 already... great job!

however it won't help that much...

I have the pulleys and before the kompressor kicks in (about 2900 rpms), the car has enough power to beat civics.

i true believe its the transmission... when crusing... it down shift to 4th, but does not want to give you 3rd at will

same thing when crusing in 4th.. its hard to get to 2nd in D mode, unless your pedal hits the "click" button.

try doing the IC pump upgrade and the spark plugs, maybe the response will improve.

I have the spark plugs and response is no problem on the freeway, its only around town.

 

Actually Stage 1 has been a long time coming. I have had the car for over 3 years. It is something I have been thinking about doing for over a year and I just decided to get it installed. I just hope I won't be disappointed in the performance. My expectations might too high.

 

above 3k.. you notice the difference.

pass 4k its get really crazy

and above 5k.. its a short insane ride


you will have more power due to the ECU, since I don't have one yet. But ECU is only good for another 15+/-RWHP.. depends on the mapping.

You won't be disappointed. But don't expect the boost to start early.. it will never happen. Unless someone can change the kompressor settings to start earlier, something nobody really has the time and money to R&D.