Lack of Power Checklist
#1
Lack of Power Checklist
Hello guys - I am getting very frustrated with my dealer and my limited knowledge on this subject so I'm asking for your advice. My car is a 2002 C32.
My car is experiencing lack of power. 1FASTC32 and I took it for a test drive and came up with the same conclusion: IC pump malfunction.
Here is the background, my IC pump failed after the famous relay campaign last May, pump was replaced, car ran fine. Then I had a current draw supposedly coming from the seat control modules and the rear SAM, everything was replaced including a new battery. Right when I drove it out of the dealer, something was wrong: car had no power and was changing gears at very high rpms so I did a U-turn and dropped it off. The next day, they called back (oh, we had a problem with the relay again)... your car is ready... OK. After driving it for a few minutes in the highway, the SC didnt engage and the car had a rough time at 75-80 mph. I think since the SC engages at 2,800 rpm or so, and at 80 mph you are roughly at 2,900-3,000 rpm, that's when it gets really noticeable. Dealer changed the IC pump (for the 2nd time in 5 months) and my problem still persists...
My dealer is not even a yar and half old and I doubt they work in AMGs in a daily basis. Can it be something else besides the IC pump the cause of this? The IC pump works, just not at speeds over 60 mph.
Thanks for reading - Carlos
My car is experiencing lack of power. 1FASTC32 and I took it for a test drive and came up with the same conclusion: IC pump malfunction.
Here is the background, my IC pump failed after the famous relay campaign last May, pump was replaced, car ran fine. Then I had a current draw supposedly coming from the seat control modules and the rear SAM, everything was replaced including a new battery. Right when I drove it out of the dealer, something was wrong: car had no power and was changing gears at very high rpms so I did a U-turn and dropped it off. The next day, they called back (oh, we had a problem with the relay again)... your car is ready... OK. After driving it for a few minutes in the highway, the SC didnt engage and the car had a rough time at 75-80 mph. I think since the SC engages at 2,800 rpm or so, and at 80 mph you are roughly at 2,900-3,000 rpm, that's when it gets really noticeable. Dealer changed the IC pump (for the 2nd time in 5 months) and my problem still persists...
My dealer is not even a yar and half old and I doubt they work in AMGs in a daily basis. Can it be something else besides the IC pump the cause of this? The IC pump works, just not at speeds over 60 mph.
Thanks for reading - Carlos
#2
And they call themselves an MB dealer? A bit confused here because if they are a MB dealer they should have a qualified AMG tech at their service. Could it be that something might be trigging the IC Pump to malfunction? Have you tried going to a different dealer for service and getting a 2nd opinion? Just my 2 cents.
#3
carlos, i just got a scan tool for the car...i am going to plug it in to my car this weekend and then we can plug it into your car this next week to see if we notice in difference in what the 2 cars are doing...
#4
Houston is huge and there are 4-5 MB dealers... all spread-out. This one is the only one that gives you a loaner w/o any problem. I don't even have to go there, they come to my office, drop the loaner and pick my car up. The service is above average... and besides, they are willing to repair it at no charge if I find something related to the repairs they've done.
1FASTC32 - sounds good man! did you get my email!?
What about flushing the coolant? I also replaced the radiator about 4 months ago... thinking about it, I have replaced a lot in this car... I should start looking for a Geo Metro to commute.
1FASTC32 - sounds good man! did you get my email!?
What about flushing the coolant? I also replaced the radiator about 4 months ago... thinking about it, I have replaced a lot in this car... I should start looking for a Geo Metro to commute.
#6
is the S/C working properly?
it could be the clutch not working...
I doubt is the engine or transmission.
It can only be the S/C and its components or heat ralated.
Have them check the PSI level on the kompressor.
it could be the clutch not working...
I doubt is the engine or transmission.
It can only be the S/C and its components or heat ralated.
Have them check the PSI level on the kompressor.
#7
It doesnt feel like its the engine or the transmission either. The car runs fine. From a cold start, the power is there. I just came back from work and it really hesitates after reaching its regular working temp. Like the ECU saying: it's too hot - safe mode on. I'll have them check the PSI levels...
I wonder if there are any codes of high IAT saved or something...
Thanks for the feedback, I'm keeping everything in mind to not discard any possibilities.
I wonder if there are any codes of high IAT saved or something...
Thanks for the feedback, I'm keeping everything in mind to not discard any possibilities.
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#8
isn't there something about the connector to the supercharger or wiring, something along those lines that goes bad? i remember reading something about this a long time ago, but can't remember the specifics...
#9
isn't there something about the connector to the supercharger or wiring, something along those lines that goes bad? i remember reading something about this a long time ago, but can't remember the specifics...
#10
Can you tell me more about that? I think is something electrical-related since the car started this behavior after the rear sam, both control modules, the secondary air pump relay and a new battery was replaced. I tried reading other post both couldnt find anything...
#11
If you can monitor the OBD2 bus for the IAT. It should hit about 199F about the time power goes away.
Also, one could tap into the connection the SC clutch and monitor the voltage across the SC clutch, inside the car with a voltameter.
In addition the IC pump does not like to run dry, if there is air in the IC coolant circuit, that could be a problem for the pump. It should draw about 1.5A, when running, so monitoring, the current should tell, if it is working.
Also, one could tap into the connection the SC clutch and monitor the voltage across the SC clutch, inside the car with a voltameter.
In addition the IC pump does not like to run dry, if there is air in the IC coolant circuit, that could be a problem for the pump. It should draw about 1.5A, when running, so monitoring, the current should tell, if it is working.
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Diamond Bar & Anaheim, CA
2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
Carchip odb2 data logger
I bought a new cool toy called the carchip. Scangauge ODB2 reader didn't work on my car. The carchip is pretty useful. It data logs certain engine data for up to 75 hrs. Each run (engine start -> stop) is logged and can be downloaded to a PC thru USB cable. It's only $99. Monitors IAT, MAP, coolant temp, timing advance, fuel pressure, oxygen sensors, engine RPM, MPH, etc.
Here's a graph of my boost today......if you're wondering why it's making 25 psi boost, it's because i have a peehole restrictive exhaust from the stock NA C320 motor=excess backpressure=more (bad) boost. Stock boost on a C32 is 14.5 psi. Gotta let the motor flow and breathe...
Drive home on the freeway on Wed night, cruising about 70mph....
Coolant temp from Wed night drive....
Here's a graph of my boost today......if you're wondering why it's making 25 psi boost, it's because i have a peehole restrictive exhaust from the stock NA C320 motor=excess backpressure=more (bad) boost. Stock boost on a C32 is 14.5 psi. Gotta let the motor flow and breathe...
Drive home on the freeway on Wed night, cruising about 70mph....
Coolant temp from Wed night drive....
Last edited by pshek; 10-27-2006 at 03:13 AM.
#15
This carchip, you have, pshek, looks pretty useful,
http://www.davisnet.com/drive/produc...asp?pnum=08211
$139.00
http://www.davisnet.com/productpics/big/08211.jpg
""With the basic CarChip, the data logger will store up to 75 hours of trip details before you'll need to download. If you drive, on average, two hours a day, that's over a month's worth of driving data! (When full, CarChip "rolls over" and begins to overwrite the oldest data with the newest.)
You'll get complete trip details including:
* Time and date for each trip
* Distance traveled
* Speed (recorded every 5 seconds)
* Hard brakings and quick accelerations
With CarChip, you can test your vehicle's emission status (or see if the used car will pass the smog test before you buy it!), sort business and personal miles, and calculate gas mileage.
You can view all of this graphically on your computer screen, giving you a moment-by-moment picture of how you—or perhaps your employees or the teenagers in your household—are driving.
If the vehicle's check engine light (also known as a malfunction indicator light or MIL) comes on, you'll be able to:
* Read the diagnostic trouble code (or DTC).
* Get the "freeze-frame" sensor readings telling you the status of various engine parameters at the time.
* Reset the light.
Includes data logger, software on CD, and USB cable for downloading data. Requires Windows 98SE/2000/ME/XP and one USB port. ""
http://www.davisnet.com/drive/produc...asp?pnum=08211
$139.00
http://www.davisnet.com/productpics/big/08211.jpg
""With the basic CarChip, the data logger will store up to 75 hours of trip details before you'll need to download. If you drive, on average, two hours a day, that's over a month's worth of driving data! (When full, CarChip "rolls over" and begins to overwrite the oldest data with the newest.)
You'll get complete trip details including:
* Time and date for each trip
* Distance traveled
* Speed (recorded every 5 seconds)
* Hard brakings and quick accelerations
With CarChip, you can test your vehicle's emission status (or see if the used car will pass the smog test before you buy it!), sort business and personal miles, and calculate gas mileage.
You can view all of this graphically on your computer screen, giving you a moment-by-moment picture of how you—or perhaps your employees or the teenagers in your household—are driving.
If the vehicle's check engine light (also known as a malfunction indicator light or MIL) comes on, you'll be able to:
* Read the diagnostic trouble code (or DTC).
* Get the "freeze-frame" sensor readings telling you the status of various engine parameters at the time.
* Reset the light.
Includes data logger, software on CD, and USB cable for downloading data. Requires Windows 98SE/2000/ME/XP and one USB port. ""
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 2
From: Diamond Bar & Anaheim, CA
2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
Another data log from tonight's drive
MPH (60-110 mph pull), had to slow down for the turn.
Boost (max 27 psi boost at WOT!?!? ; C32 motor with stock pulley should be making about 15 psi peak boost right????)
Throttle position (WOT at 110 mph, and 27 psi boost!?)
Hmmmmm.......I think my car is making too much boost from the restrictive exhaust. Maybe I should wait on installing the green filters and ASP pulley. I was also monitoring air flow rate (0.6 lb/s) and throttle position, but the graphs are meaningless to me since I don't understand them.
Boost (max 27 psi boost at WOT!?!? ; C32 motor with stock pulley should be making about 15 psi peak boost right????)
Throttle position (WOT at 110 mph, and 27 psi boost!?)
Hmmmmm.......I think my car is making too much boost from the restrictive exhaust. Maybe I should wait on installing the green filters and ASP pulley. I was also monitoring air flow rate (0.6 lb/s) and throttle position, but the graphs are meaningless to me since I don't understand them.
#18
Yes 320 whp... Yes this low...
Evosport suspects the exhaust is too restrictive (I don't have a stock exhaust).
Already changed the IC pump and checked radiator and coolant levels.
If it is the exhaust, it will DEFINATELY be replaced. If it is NOT the exhaust, any idea what else could be causing this?
Any comments would appreciated
#19
My car was just modded with evosport full stage II, but keeps consistently dynoing low @ 315 to 320 whp ????
Yes 320 whp... Yes this low...
Evosport suspects the exhaust is too restrictive (I don't have a stock exhaust).
Already changed the IC pump and checked radiator and coolant levels.
If it is the exhaust, it will DEFINATELY be replaced. If it is NOT the exhaust, any idea what else could be causing this?
Any comments would appreciated
Yes 320 whp... Yes this low...
Evosport suspects the exhaust is too restrictive (I don't have a stock exhaust).
Already changed the IC pump and checked radiator and coolant levels.
If it is the exhaust, it will DEFINATELY be replaced. If it is NOT the exhaust, any idea what else could be causing this?
Any comments would appreciated
#21
MH-Dezent Exhaust
I have an MH-Dezent exhaust. They make one for the normal C-Class (C280, C320, etc...) and one for C32 AMG (which I have). When I dynoed my car before and after the exhaust installation, there was only 1 horsepower difference.
I got it because it gives this quad look. Two pipes come out of muffler, one for the left two tips and another pipe for the right two tips.
But now that I have gone to stage II mods, the exhaust (I guess) is not handling the "change" well...
I got it because it gives this quad look. Two pipes come out of muffler, one for the left two tips and another pipe for the right two tips.
But now that I have gone to stage II mods, the exhaust (I guess) is not handling the "change" well...
#22
I have an MH-Dezent exhaust. They make one for the normal C-Class (C280, C320, etc...) and one for C32 AMG (which I have). When I dynoed my car before and after the exhaust installation, there was only 1 horsepower difference.
I got it because it gives this quad look. Two pipes come out of muffler, one for the left two tips and another pipe for the right two tips.
But now that I have gone to stage II mods, the exhaust (I guess) is not handling the "change" well...
I got it because it gives this quad look. Two pipes come out of muffler, one for the left two tips and another pipe for the right two tips.
But now that I have gone to stage II mods, the exhaust (I guess) is not handling the "change" well...