I'm going to use the AllData meager diagram to unbolt the necessary stuff.

Any special tools needed? I've done brake pads before (which is easy) but rotors could be tougher since I have to take off the calipers.

FYI, I'm using Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors from Pure Motorsports and EBC Redstuff pads.

 

This job is cake. I would recommend getting steel braided brake lines since they're cheap ($100 or less - got mine from StopTech) and you're going in there anyways.

You don't need the special tool that a lot of cars require for removing the rotors. Only other thing is make sure to get new brake wear sensors ($7 each from my local dealer, there is one for each wheel). I bought a tool to pry the pistons in the caliper back, but you can just use one of the worn pads and pry it back. Other than that, I ran into no surprises - I'm a VERY novice mechanic and I found it very simple and fun.

 

yes, please make sure you follow this procedure if you want your new setup to perform the way it should:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

 

I dont have a c32, but when i was replacing the rear rotors on my car, the screw that holds the rotor to the wheel hub was very soft and/or very difficult to take out and I ended up stripping the screw. Be careful there or have an extra set of the screws on hand to replace them if you strip them and need to drill em out w/ easy outs.

-j0hn

 

How much did the rotors run?

 

$110 each at www.purems.com

 

TruTaing is correct _ use a hand held/ Hammer driven impact with a#3 phillips bit . here's some more tips

After many Trips I was cleaning the disc brake dust & rewaxing all the wheels on the CLK 5.5. So I talked to my Friend at The garage to see if he has had any experence with EBC Sport Formula (Green Stuff) disc brake Pads. Butch & Jerry @ Butch Stokes Automotive in Pembroke Park FL. Near Miami & Ft. Lauderdale. Have installed them on Lots of Porsche's
With no customer complaints. So I order front Pads Part Number DP21363 & rear pads Part Number DP2887 . I installed them Myself. ALSO HAD THE REAR CALIPERS painted Silver ( hi temp Urathane 2 part Paint). I recently had the rotors replaced ,Warped . Car only had 8000 miles.So I didn't need to put a fresh cut on them. Please note This is a 03 Car. It has 4 piston Brembo's in the front and what looks like E55 amg / 300 series 91 thru 93 . Brakes in the rear. (2 piston cast iron) I know 05 CLK 5.5 AMG has Brembo's front (6 piston) & Rear (4 piston) so the part numbers will differ.. Expect to spent about a hour per wheel labor time , with cleaning the old dust off. It was just a simple to drive the retainer pins out , drop in the new pads.
I did a little extra work. and applied a little constant pressure to the brake pedal , with a 2x4 cut to lenght , wedge between the lower seat frame & the brake pedal. WHY?
This closes off the brake fluid inlet port in the master cylinder and keeps any old contaminated fluid from being force back in the the brake system , when you compress the pistons to install the new thicker pads. Put a 12"piece of clear hose on the caliper Bleeder screw , Then take a empty 16 oz water bottle , drill a hole in the top ,not to big ,sized to the clear hose , to capture the old fluid . Watch out brake fluid will lift or damage any paint it touchs. Please despose of the fluid properly ,DO NOT REUSE IT. Have fresh DOT #3 brake fluid on hand. When each wheel is done , release the brake pedal , do not apply pedal pressure yet , be ready to top off the master cylinder. At this time,
Repete for each wheel job , start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder . POOF a saturday morning gone . Time to seat up the new pads as per EBC instructions
The brakes seated up quickly & actually work better than than the OEM pads ,Seat of Pants / No fading or noise, BEST OF ALL NO DUST!!