can anyone give me a link to installing rear pads on a C32? i've see it done, but i wouldn't mind having a script to go by.

 

Let me take a whack (this applies to fronts - I haven't done the rears):

> Wheel off; brake fluid cap off (cover w/ clean cloth).
> Using a narrow punch or little screwdriver, push two 4" pins out of their holes, freeing up the springy metal plate holding the pads in. Once pins are out, the plate will come off.
> Find the tabs at the "top" of the brake pads. Using a vice or vice grip, push the brake pads back against the caliper. This creates room to pull the pad out from the top of the caliper.
> Yank them out.
> If needed, carefully push the pistons (2 each side) back into their cylinders making as much room for the new pads as possible. New pads will be thicker and need more room. Use the old pad if needed.
> The old pads will come out with thin steel insulators/shims wrapped on them. Keep the shims and fit them over the new pads.
> Shove teh new pads into the calipers. Sounds dopey, but make sure the brake friction surface faces the rotor!
> Put the spring plate back on, and push the 4" pins into their holes.
> Brake fluid should be OK, but check the level anyway, and close cap.
> Break in the pads. "Street" pads are supposed to be broken in slowly. Performance pads have to get "burned" in with a series (8-10) hard stops (from 50 to 5 mph).

 

doing it is even easier than reading about doing it!

 

hey thanks man, i'm going to give it a shot now. i got spoiled by how nice the front ceramic pads are, so i'm putting them on the rears too.

i'll let you know how i do

 

I plan to do mine next week... Good little write up.
-Mike

 

Maybe doing mine today. Never did rears before.

 

doing my rears today. also painting my rear calipers silver- which i do every 6 months. realy makes them look a hell of a lot better. i use the high heat aluminum paint. makes them look a hundred times better.

i'll let you guys know how i do......

 

I just did all four wheels, so below is a clarification on doing the rears (followed by a story of stupidity):

> Wheels off; brake fluid cap off (cover w/ clean cloth).
> The face of the caliper will have two "nail holes" that hold the end of the ends of two 4" pins. The pins go from the back of the inside caliper, behind the pads and out the outside caliper. Using a narrow punch or little screwdriver, push two 4" pins out of their holes, freeing up the springy metal plate holding the pads in. Once pins are out, the spring plate will come off. Remember how it went on.
> Find the tabs at the "top" of the brake pads. Using a channel-lock plier or vice grip, push the brake pads back against the caliper (compressing the pistons). I open the bleed valve a run a tube - this lets the piston retract easier. This creates room to pull the pad out from the top of the caliper.
> Yank them out.
> If needed, carefully push the pistons (2 each side) back into their cylinders making as much room for the new pads as possible. New pads will be thicker and need more room. Use the old pad if needed.
> The old pads will come out with thin steel insulators/shims wrapped on them. Keep the shims and fit them over the new pads.
> Slide the new pads into the calipers. Sounds dopey, but make sure the brake friction surface faces the rotor!
> Put the spring plate back on, and push the 4" pins into their holes.
> Brake fluid should be OK, but check the level anyway, and close cap.
> Break in the pads. "Street" pads are supposed to be broken in slowly. Performance pads have to get "burned" in with a series (8-10) hard stops (from 50 to 5 mph).

STORY OF STUPIDITY: Two years ago, I put in rear pads (EBC RedStuff) and had to grind the upper and lower edges of the pads to make them slide into the caliper. They were maybe 2mm too tall. Two years later, and I'm replacing EBC Redstuff with EBC YellowStuff. They MUST have fixed the sizing problem by now, right? Nope. The first rear pad gets jammed, and rather than back out and grind, I decided they might make it in if they get "pursuaded" with a mallet. BAM BAM, BAM. I'm feeling sorry for the person who needs to take these out!!! Soon the pad is stuck and I'm at the point of no return (cannot get it out, and won't go in either). Crap crap crap. After about 5 minutes of panic, I realize that I can take off the caliper (2 bolts, 2 minutes). With the caliper off, the pad can get banged out. I break out the Dremel and grind all the pads so they slip in easily. The rest goes like clockwork.

I'll report on how the YellowStuff works after I've put some miles on them. The RedStuff held up well and had at least 50% life left, but they had lost a lot of cold bite (perhaps due to being overheated on track). One of the front pads had a little "canyon" dug into it, but they were otherwise intact and stable. The YellowStuff (advertised as a streetable/race pad) is already showing more bite.

 

well, i put the rear ceramic pads on with no problem. not sure what you guys meant by the brake line cap, but they're working great now.

one thing to watch out for is damaging the old pads when you are trying to move the pistons out to install the new ones. i actually nicked up the corner of one of the old pads- i'm selling the old ones on ebay. but other than that, great stuff. i'll never pay anyone to do my brakes again!

thanks for the help guys.

 

Selling old brake pads??? Ebay is amazing. I've got 8 quarts of used motor oil that I'm willing to ship around the country!

 

the brake pads i'm selling have about 2.5 months of light use. it's actually a good deal for whoever buys them.

 

whats the Brand of the Paint you use to paint the calipers am thinking of painting mines untill i purchase the CLK55 AMG Rear Brakes

 

can't remember the name, but i use the high temp aluminum color. works great and really looks a lot better

are you going to buy the CLK 55 breaks for your C32? if you do, tell me where you get them, and how difficult of an install it iss. i'd like to get them myself.

 

use the G2 kit.

 

Great write up Fifth, thanks.

I did my fronts a while back it was very easy. I just got my car back from the dealer for regular service and was told I need to replace rear pads. Is there any sensors on the rear pads? I have no warning in the dash. I can't trust these guys, their idea of low is very different than mine. They told me my rear tires are very bald and need replace.. I think they are just about at their prime. Nice and grippy

 

There's a sensor on the right rear. It's possible that another pad is low.

Rears are actually easier than fronts (slightly), but basically the same.

 

the rears have a sensor, but the breaks have to get REALLY low before that sensor is going to go off. if you need new rears, get some ceramic pads and do them yourself. i couldn't believe how easy it was. the instructions above tell you everything you need to know.

i barely have to clean my wheels now that i have the ceramics on the car. they practically don't get dirty any more- and i drive my car quite hard!

 

Thanks guys, as Fifth said maybe one side is worn out or they are lot at a level to get to the sensors. I ordered a set of Porterfields for the rear when I did my fronts. They are great pads, very good performance, and very low dust. I'll change the rears soon.