got declined for loan for C32, Here are pics of my credit score, any advice to fix?
#26
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soon to be C32
Yeah the C32 2002 for me was 130/month full coverage, I was paying 115 month previously for a 97 cavalier with the cheapest coverage. But you make a good point, but its not too bad for me. I just turned 25 so I get a decent break.
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I guess some of the posts mix it up between why your credit score is low and how you should prioritize your money.
To me, paying off half or all of your student loans is more about how you prioritize your money than about your credit. If you have enough income, once your collection account has been disputed, you shouldn't have any problems getting a loan for your car.
I understand that your overall utilization is 65%... but to be honest, it's not that bad.... couple of my credit cards have close to 90% utilization (0% interest and put the money to money market = free money ), yet my FICO score is still above 700. This is mainly due to my long (which you cannot control) and clean history (in addition to tons of available credit - I think around $300-400K total lines on credit cards alone, hence, low overall utilization).
Refinancing won't hurt your credit other than additional inquiry posted to your credit report, which only gives temporary impact. Your score may not even be affected at all given additional accounts (which is good) and lower debt ratio that would offset the inquiry impact.
So another tip when you're ready to buy a car.... shop for loans at the same time... if possible, do all on the same day. Inquiries from the same industry (i.e. car loans) within a short time period (I think up to 1 week) will be deduped by credit bureaus at the end of the month... so you could put 10 inquiries on one day... and it will only hurt your credit report up to 1 month. The next month, they will be only 1 inquiry.
To me, paying off half or all of your student loans is more about how you prioritize your money than about your credit. If you have enough income, once your collection account has been disputed, you shouldn't have any problems getting a loan for your car.
I understand that your overall utilization is 65%... but to be honest, it's not that bad.... couple of my credit cards have close to 90% utilization (0% interest and put the money to money market = free money ), yet my FICO score is still above 700. This is mainly due to my long (which you cannot control) and clean history (in addition to tons of available credit - I think around $300-400K total lines on credit cards alone, hence, low overall utilization).
Refinancing won't hurt your credit other than additional inquiry posted to your credit report, which only gives temporary impact. Your score may not even be affected at all given additional accounts (which is good) and lower debt ratio that would offset the inquiry impact.
So another tip when you're ready to buy a car.... shop for loans at the same time... if possible, do all on the same day. Inquiries from the same industry (i.e. car loans) within a short time period (I think up to 1 week) will be deduped by credit bureaus at the end of the month... so you could put 10 inquiries on one day... and it will only hurt your credit report up to 1 month. The next month, they will be only 1 inquiry.
#28
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2003 C32
Wow this is great advice, very detailed tips thank you. I like your optomistic mind set, I don't think its a big deal for me getting this car once the collection is removed, I think I should be good. I wish they used your last recent pay periods to factor your income rather then previous tax year. Last year I was still in school so I only worked part time for little pay. I recently got a promotion and am making much more then last year, but I'm going to have to wait at least 14 months for that to effect me or no?
zoink has good points but even if he has 90% credit used up on 1 card, it's overall credit availability that's the key factor, not individual card usage. He's fine because he has high limits (in total).
Make sure all correspondence to credit reporting agencies are done via Return Receipt post (can't do it online since you need to send in proof of the invalid collection, do not rely on someone else to fix it for you). You need that green confirmation card to follow up on if nothing happens. 3 months is optimistic - they state it takes minimum 90 days to respond. Double it to 6 months (you will receive a copy of your new credit report once it is corrected, in the mail).
When you do dispute the collection, dispute anything else that is inaccurate on your report, get each credit report agency to fix everything. Itemize each correction in your letter. Keep copies of what you send out along with the return receipt card (and dates sent).
A collection is probably worth about 50 points. What's killing your score is credit utilization at 65%. Drop it to below 20%.
You seem very fixated on a car and less on solving your credit problems. Take this advice from a guy who had a FICO of 515, clear the student loan completely. There's no point in refinancing the loan if your credit score is still in the ****ter.
Next, clear the collection (pull a credit report from each agency, transunion, equifax, experian - ignore the 3-in-1 reports, pull each individual report, write a letter to dispute the collection and provide proof, you will receive an acknowledgment letter within a month and several more before it gets wiped out)
It takes time for your FICO to bounce back, many months. Check your scores every 3 months for changes.
Hard inquiries (credit check reports) like when applying for loans, do count. A few inquiries within a short time span that is obvious (car loan, mortgage) will be negligible but it doesn't mean that your score won't be reduced slightly (-10, 20 pts)
I'm not going to mince words here. What you think so far, isn't working. That's what got you into the credit mess you have now. Listen to the words of people who have been financially more successful (than you) and heed them.
The car will still be around. Insurance isn't the only thing to consider. Gas, upkeep and repairs (include extended warranty costs)
#29
Another interesting thing I have heard is that if you are shopping for the car loan do all inquiries within 30 days and they won't negatively impact your score as they will be all done for the same transaction-
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'05 c230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
db2012
WHAT YOU REALLY NEED TO KNOW:
1. YOUR BALANCE SHOULD BE ZERO.
Your debt is over $11k when your balance should actually be $0. Do NOT keep a balance on your accounts. You should owe absolutely nothing at the end of each month. Pay off everything you owe each month.
2. HOW IS YOUR CREDIT SCORE CALCULATED?
Credit is reported based on a ratio between your credit limit and how much credit you actually use. If your credit is $5,000 per month, using $1k is better than using 2k. The closer you get to the maximum, the worse off you are. SOLUTION 1) Spend less 2) call your credit card comapany and ask them to raise your limit. By the way, do NOT cancel any of your credit cards. Doing so will also cancel good credit you may have accumilated.
3. WHEN PAY SOMETHING OFF VS. PAY IN MONTHLY INTALLMENTS:
For everything you buy excluding big ticket items like cars and houses, you should be able to pay in bulk. The only reason you should choose to pay in monthly installments is to increase your leverage.
The interest that you're paying should be LESS than the interest you are EARNING by NOT paying. If you can earn more on the money than the amount you owe, keep the money and make money. e.g. Let's say you're earning 8% on your money. Why pay off a 5.5% loan on the same amount if you can make the difference of 2.5%? If on the other hand, you're being charged 4% on something, while you're only earning 2% on the same amount, you're losing 2% every month. Got it?
4. YOU HAVE LOTS MORE TIME:
Look foward to the c32. No need to have it now. You already have a Mercedes. Keep your money, pay off debt and then improve your lifestyle if you have money left over.
5. GET YOUR PRIORITES STRAIGHT:
Pay yourself first. Declare a certain amount to transfer monthly from your checking to your savings account. Use whatever's left for your expenses. Don't do it backwards and gather up expenses and save what's left. You'll find you'll end up with nothing to save.
#32
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02 CLK 55 AMG,09 C63 loaded with P30
My credit history is only 8yrs old. But I always pay on time and never leave a balance on my 2 credit cards. You don't need more then 2 cards. My credit score is a 760.
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'05 c230 Kompressor Sport Sedan
I'd honestly rather have a cheaper car with all the options I wanted and money left over for mods than a supped up stock car. Imagine if this guy bought a c230 kompressor coupe instead. He'd save a ton and have a gillion dollars to spend on custom modifications.
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2000 clk430, 2002 clk430, 2002 clk55amg, 2005 c55 amg
you need to give my guys at mercedes benz of tampa a call. they got me into a 05 c55 amg with 3k down and a 617 credit score. they have 2 silver 05 c55's left, and can find you a c32 if you want. they are awesome. like i said, i went through a divorce and have 6k in collections on my report with a 617 score and they got me into a 35k c55 with 3k down.
#36
It is very hard to go into a bank to get a loan without a dealership to apply for you. When they try to sell you the loan don't take it. Tell them you want a better rate, (they are trying to make money on the back end.) Honestly your credit isn't too bad, I finance home loans and settle consumer debts so I look at credit every day. But you definitely should have your fico score pulled by the dealership because the free online credit report can be up to 100 points off. By the way.. I wouldn't mess with your collection. The issue is you have already lost points on your credit report because of the collection. As time goes by those points come back as long as you pay other accounts on time. The second you call the collection agency to start making payments that old collection account becomes active and you lose points again.
#37
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It is very hard to go into a bank to get a loan without a dealership to apply for you. When they try to sell you the loan don't take it. Tell them you want a better rate, (they are trying to make money on the back end.) Honestly your credit isn't too bad, I finance home loans and settle consumer debts so I look at credit every day. But you definitely should have your fico score pulled by the dealership because the free online credit report can be up to 100 points off. By the way.. I wouldn't mess with your collection. The issue is you have already lost points on your credit report because of the collection. As time goes by those points come back as long as you pay other accounts on time. The second you call the collection agency to start making payments that old collection account becomes active and you lose points again.
#38
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2011 GL550, 2004 Audi S4 v8
Credit Unions are a pretty good place to get low interest loans....But the fact is what everyone is saying...wait...pay somethings off. Than buy the car. Who knows, down the road you may decide you want something else.
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2003 C32
However, if you negotiate (and get it in writing) to pay and get them to remove it from the report, you'll be fine. Not supposed to work this way but you want it off your record, they want to get their money back, it works.
#40
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Make getting out of debt and cleaning up your credit score your main priorities. Once accomplished, you'll be able to (1) take advantage of opportunities that are presented to you and (2) obtain the Tier 1 credit you'll need to take maximum advantage of those opportunities.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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'03 CLK 55
I don't know why you guys keep telling him to sell his stock, this is the worst time of the year to sell stock.. I rather keep it and not buy vehicle either... wait untile market gets better
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2002 C32, 2011 VW GTI
+1. Pay off that student loan asap; with numbers like these you should wait before getting into more debt.
Also, keep in mind you'll need at least $2K/year to maintain the C32; it's an expensive toy going for cheap.
Try applying online at Capital One. My brother was in the market a few months ago and that's where he got the best rate.
Factor all that in your budget and list your priorities. Good luck.
*Random advice: you should save at least enough money to cover your operating cost for at least 4 months, also known as an Emergency Fund. Whatever the amount is, put it in a short term CD or MM.
Also, keep in mind you'll need at least $2K/year to maintain the C32; it's an expensive toy going for cheap.
Try applying online at Capital One. My brother was in the market a few months ago and that's where he got the best rate.
Factor all that in your budget and list your priorities. Good luck.
*Random advice: you should save at least enough money to cover your operating cost for at least 4 months, also known as an Emergency Fund. Whatever the amount is, put it in a short term CD or MM.
As we all know, even once you've managed to buy a C32, the costs sure don't end there! They're very expensive to maintain (a spark plug change on one of these things is over $500) and they use a lot of premium gas at $3.50+ per gallon. Plus, C32s and C55s are depreciating fast. It's not like they're going to get more expensive any time soon. Wait a couple of years and a decent '04 C32 will be a $15k car.
If he feels the "need for speed" there are a lot of cheaper options out there to get him by for now. How about a $10-12k E36 M3?
#43
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2010 E350 SP / Honda Crosstour / prior vehicles - C32 modded / C300 modded / Lincoln LS modded
credit
I agree with this statement. Your score needs to be 680 to hit approval for decent interest rates. Your colleciton needs to come off. Keep your student loan for credit histroy. Lexington Law firm can help get your collection off your report. P.M. me if your curious. I had a 580 years ago. Bought a Lincoln LS at 16% and 10k down. I was foolish and young and wanted the car really bad. I made 90k a year at the time, but they would only approve me for 25k and I had to put a huge down. I fixed my credit within a year to a 720. Refied the Lincoln to 4.5%, bought a c32 at 5% and a house a year later after I got rid of the lincoln. Now I want to sell the c32, it's out of warranty and averages about $1600 to $1800 a year by my calculations to maintain and keep fresh rubber on the car.
This thread is somewhat comedy. I assume this person is very young due to the short credit history.
There is Zero need to pay off that student loan, and in fact, it's actually better not to since you have short credit history, as it will establish longer payment history and more creditworthiness.
Get rid of that collection. Whether it's a real debt or not send a letter disputing it or call them and work out a deal to pay it conditioned only on removal from your credit report.
You must have really low income or something at least claimed as well to have such low credit offered. Any amount over 50% on cards brings your score down. Do all of those things and maybe apply for another card with a single digit interest rate, xfer the balance from the higher and you'll be better off interest wise as well as % of carrying on cards wise and you're fico will be better, or pay off the amount on cards to under 40% and you should be decent-
There is Zero need to pay off that student loan, and in fact, it's actually better not to since you have short credit history, as it will establish longer payment history and more creditworthiness.
Get rid of that collection. Whether it's a real debt or not send a letter disputing it or call them and work out a deal to pay it conditioned only on removal from your credit report.
You must have really low income or something at least claimed as well to have such low credit offered. Any amount over 50% on cards brings your score down. Do all of those things and maybe apply for another card with a single digit interest rate, xfer the balance from the higher and you'll be better off interest wise as well as % of carrying on cards wise and you're fico will be better, or pay off the amount on cards to under 40% and you should be decent-
Last edited by evanswan; 02-03-2008 at 01:55 PM. Reason: add comment