C55 tranny fluid/filter change..DIY?
For the erstwhile OP and other conscientious owners...722.6x pan drop & filter replacement DIY.

For the erstwhile OP and other conscientious owners...722.6x pan drop & filter replacement DIY.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.

You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
Last edited by 91RS; Dec 19, 2009 at 06:02 PM.
Last edited by 1Lop2K5C; Dec 20, 2009 at 01:53 AM.
Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..


Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
Why so angry?

Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..


Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
Last edited by spr; Dec 20, 2009 at 10:43 PM.
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube!
I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool! Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
Last edited by spr; Jan 11, 2010 at 11:41 PM.
thanks!
Mike
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube!
I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool! Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets today as well and I was hoping I could get the car back on the road asap.
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets today as well and I was hoping I could get the car back on the road asap.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.






