C55 tranny fluid/filter change..DIY?
12-18-2009, 10:53 PM
#27
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For the erstwhile OP and other conscientious owners...722.6x pan drop & filter replacement DIY.
12-19-2009, 07:03 AM
#28
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
¿Ha bebido?
For the erstwhile OP and other conscientious owners...722.6x pan drop & filter replacement DIY.
For the erstwhile OP and other conscientious owners...722.6x pan drop & filter replacement DIY.
12-19-2009, 05:27 PM
#29
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Again you're a moron. That's a tranny fill tube. How many more people need to tell you? Can you read? Then read your owners manual.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
12-19-2009, 05:58 PM
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2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
Again you're a moron. That's a tranny fill tube. How many more people need to tell you? Can you read? Then read your owners manual.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
12-19-2009, 05:58 PM
#31
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Again you're a moron. That's a tranny fill tube. How many more people need to tell you? Can you read? Then read your owners manual.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
Last edited by 91RS; 12-19-2009 at 06:02 PM.
12-19-2009, 09:38 PM
#32
Easy guys, I'll post the pic. Here it is, the red circle is where the engine oil dip stick tube. Almost right underneath it below hidden, there is another short small tube with a blk cover and a red tab, I believe thats the tranny tube.
Last edited by 1Lop2K5C; 12-20-2009 at 01:53 AM.
12-20-2009, 12:04 AM
#33
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Why the vitriol in our otherwise respectable section of the forum?
Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..
Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..
Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
12-20-2009, 12:58 AM
#34
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Again you're a moron. That's a tranny fill tube. How many more people need to tell you? Can you read? Then read your owners manual.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
You have poor logic and are incredibly stupid. Just because you only see one tube to fill fluids it must be for oil?? you're a f$cKing idiot.
Pull the front engine cover and the oil filler cap is on the lower right. Did you put oil in your tranny? Idiot. It you had half a brain you'd look in your manual instead of conjecuring with flawed logic without doing any research. Moron.
Why so angry?
12-20-2009, 08:18 AM
#35
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2016 Chevrolet SS, 2006 Cadillac STS-V
Why the vitriol in our otherwise respectable section of the forum?
Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..
Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
Seems there is some confusion regarding the specifics of our various crankcases’ oil extraction tubes and the transmission’s ATF fill tube.
Almost certain most here know where to add motor oil through the cam cover.
Our five-speed’s fill tube is wedged back in the hinterlands betwixt the lower RH cylinder head and firewall, just above the bellhousing. Cattywampus from the CPS.
Almost inaccessible on the ‘55s with the airbox fitted. It’s invariably easier to locate when performing MAF maintenance - btdt, too.
Note this picture was taken during fluid level verification after replenishment, and is therefore missing its locking/anti-tamper pin..
Members in good standing are welcome to borrow the specialty tools necessary to complete the task.
12-20-2009, 10:41 PM
#36
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Again on an m113 that's the tranny tube. There is no oil filler tube but instead an oil filler cap as I said. Read a manual or do your research. Morons. Please put oil in there!
Last edited by spr; 12-20-2009 at 10:43 PM.
12-20-2009, 11:12 PM
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12-21-2009, 08:02 AM
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2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
Maybe you should read all of his posts, not once did he claim the engine oil dipstick tube was used to fill the crankcase. You're the only moron on here that is too thick to get it, he is talking about dipstick tubes, it just happens that the transmission tube is also how you fill the transmission. Others have posted pictures of BOTH dipstick tubes.
12-21-2009, 03:19 PM
#39
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Guys, enough already -- we've all got the correct info now, with pictures no less, thanks to all the helpful members here. Let it go. We don't want this sub-forum to start sounding like some of the others here regarding even "bigger" engines.
01-11-2010, 11:38 PM
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FYI, I did the change. The tranny tube is hidden under the engine cover. My oil dipstick tube is the only one visible with the cover on. In addition, I have a very different cap on the oil dipstick, it has a ring for your finger to pull it out. Lower down by the MAF, is the tranny tube with the cover and lock like is pictured above. RMautomotive had the best price on the fluid. Use the newest 4134 FUCHS which is 001-989-68-03-01. I used the OEM filter and gasket. Total cost was 160 bucks.
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube!
I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool!
Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube!
I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool! Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
Last edited by spr; 01-11-2010 at 11:41 PM.
03-07-2010, 02:41 PM
#42
Thanks for the detailed writeup SPR. Where can I get a dipstick for my C55 tranny?
thanks!
Mike
thanks!
Mike
FYI, I did the change. The tranny tube is hidden under the engine cover. My oil dipstick tube is the only one visible with the cover on. In addition, I have a very different cap on the oil dipstick, it has a ring for your finger to pull it out. Lower down by the MAF, is the tranny tube with the cover and lock like is pictured above. RMautomotive had the best price on the fluid. Use the newest 4134 FUCHS which is 001-989-68-03-01. I used the OEM filter and gasket. Total cost was 160 bucks.
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube! I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool!
Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
MB directions instruct to drain the pan, remove and clean the pad and magnet, replace filter and gasket and reinstall. Thereafter, fill with 5L in the proper tube!
I then used the radiator fitting for the draining. Pull the upper tranny line on the radiator (located just below the passenger cold air intake tube. Remove the tube to gain nice access, join to 9ft 1/2 and secure with hose clamp. Stick either end in bucket or milk container having measured a fill line of 3L. drain and refill with 3L of fresh fluid three times. Remove clamp and replaced hose and resecure. Top off with remaining and check dipstick. go slow with adding last 2L. Measure at operating temp of 80C with radiator hooked up and running. Do not attempt to do this without the dipstick tool! Overfilling can cause too much pressure and shoot the fluid past the pan seal or out dipstick filler.
This is a very easy job. Took less than 2h.
02-16-2012, 09:05 PM
#45
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2005 C55
Forced to change my Trans Fluid
Came out one day and oil on the floor. Brown so thought it was engine oil. It wasn't. 57,000 miles on my C55 never thought trans fluid would be that color. Thanks for the boat load of info about the DIY. So the problem with the leak was called a "Pilot Bushing". $25 at mb. Basically you get a plastic piece with new o-rings and yep, you cannot buy just the o-rings. You can get them cheaper on the internet. Not too much trouble to change but do plan to change your fluid and filter at the same time. I had to spend $20 for a filter kit at Pep Boys none the less ($50 at mb). But I decided to go with the true-blue factory mb oil at about $20 per liter. I bought 11 used 10. The DIY tells you in detail how to hook a hose up. I found a siphon hose at Pep Boys that was about 1/2" x 5' clear which was perfect. You can see the brown gunky stuff change to purple. The oil I got from mb was 236.14 and in the container is red. I did about 4 starts and stops adding 1 liter while draining a liter out each time. Ran the engine for a count of 5 then measured what I took out and did the math. I also measured what came out of the pan. Had to wait for my $28 dip stick from ebay. About the pilot bushing. I think once the o-rings get like old, fluid gets into the contacts. I didn't see any wicking. I used eletromotive cleaner on the connectors inside the trans and on the connector. I figure the o-rings keep oil in the trans from getting to the connections as well as keeping the oil from leaving the trans. Personally I think I'd change the Pilot Bushing with every Fluid Change. As far as the jerking I was experiencing at around 1500 rpm that is less noticable probably because it happens higher up in the rpm range now like around 1800. I do the ECU reset lots of times now too but there must be something else going on there. I at least don't hate my car because of the jerking now it is now just a little annoying. I can simply step on the throttle a little harder now and barely notice it. Kind of hard to do in stop and go though. So just wanted to thank all those who have donated thier time to post.
04-25-2014, 02:21 PM
#46
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2006 C55 AMG
DIY C55 Transmission oil change
Came out one day and oil on the floor. Brown so thought it was engine oil. It wasn't. 57,000 miles on my C55 never thought trans fluid would be that color. Thanks for the boat load of info about the DIY. So the problem with the leak was called a "Pilot Bushing". $25 at mb. Basically you get a plastic piece with new o-rings and yep, you cannot buy just the o-rings. You can get them cheaper on the internet. Not too much trouble to change but do plan to change your fluid and filter at the same time. I had to spend $20 for a filter kit at Pep Boys none the less ($50 at mb). But I decided to go with the true-blue factory mb oil at about $20 per liter. I bought 11 used 10. The DIY tells you in detail how to hook a hose up. I found a siphon hose at Pep Boys that was about 1/2" x 5' clear which was perfect. You can see the brown gunky stuff change to purple. The oil I got from mb was 236.14 and in the container is red. I did about 4 starts and stops adding 1 liter while draining a liter out each time. Ran the engine for a count of 5 then measured what I took out and did the math. I also measured what came out of the pan. Had to wait for my $28 dip stick from ebay. About the pilot bushing. I think once the o-rings get like old, fluid gets into the contacts. I didn't see any wicking. I used eletromotive cleaner on the connectors inside the trans and on the connector. I figure the o-rings keep oil in the trans from getting to the connections as well as keeping the oil from leaving the trans. Personally I think I'd change the Pilot Bushing with every Fluid Change. As far as the jerking I was experiencing at around 1500 rpm that is less noticable probably because it happens higher up in the rpm range now like around 1800. I do the ECU reset lots of times now too but there must be something else going on there. I at least don't hate my car because of the jerking now it is now just a little annoying. I can simply step on the throttle a little harder now and barely notice it. Kind of hard to do in stop and go though. So just wanted to thank all those who have donated thier time to post.
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets today as well and I was hoping I could get the car back on the road asap.
04-25-2014, 02:42 PM
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1999 E320 4matic Wagon, 2005 C55 AMG - sold, 1998 VW Jetta TDI - sold, 2006 C230 Sport - Totaled :(
This just happened to me yesterday and I'd like to correct the problem,but I'm unclear as to where the pilot bushing/ bushings are located. There's two black plastic pieces/ caps on the bottom of the pan that have a hole in them (made that way) which look like they need to be replaced. Are those it? Does anyone have a diagram they can share? Thanks Guys!
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets today as well and I was hoping I could get the car back on the road asap.
I'm changing the valve cover gaskets today as well and I was hoping I could get the car back on the road asap.
04-27-2014, 10:56 AM
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2005 C55
Warning - personal experience.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.
04-27-2014, 12:07 PM
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2006 C55 AMG
Warning - personal experience.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.
If you are going to replace the connector that goes into the transmission (it has 2 O-rings on it), DO NOT use aftermarket unless you compare with a micrometer the O-rings. I found that an aftermarket one quoted as being direct replacement was actually smaller than the OEM. So if you have the original (I did, I threw it in the trash and fortunately was recoverable), yanked out the "replacement", compared the O-rings with a micrometer and sure enough, the "replacement" was smaller hence when I came out one day, fluid on the floor. So apparently the O-rings were not able to seal it all up. The plastic piece may be fine.
