AHH! Tensioner Pulley/Bolt problem
#26
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thanks guys. test results came back today positive for pneumonia. prescribed me all sorts of crap, including something with codeine in it for my cough. lame. more bloodwork and xrays to come.
gonna have my buddy mess with the tensioner pulley tomorrow and take off that washer for me.
gonna have my buddy mess with the tensioner pulley tomorrow and take off that washer for me.
#28
thanks guys. test results came back today positive for pneumonia. prescribed me all sorts of crap, including something with codeine in it for my cough. lame. more bloodwork and xrays to come.
gonna have my buddy mess with the tensioner pulley tomorrow and take off that washer for me.
gonna have my buddy mess with the tensioner pulley tomorrow and take off that washer for me.
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#29
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update
just tried to loosen up the belt with that outside hex bolt. was not able to take the belt off as the tensioner pulley itself was loosening up. did not have a star head in the garage to try the somewhat stripped star bolt. will have to try that messing with that later. if it is too stripped, i guess i will have to replace that star bolt.
about the idler pulley with the washer:
i was able to loosen up the tensioner a tin bit, but just enough to push the belt over the middle idler pulley so it is on there all the way. when starting the car, the belt just "fixed itself" and came back off the pulley a little bit by 2 or so mm.
so the order that is currently on their is the pulley, a black washer (that is not supposed to be there), and then silver bolt. i came to the realization that perhaps, a washer or something might need to be installed behind the pulley to give it more clearance and extend it out a little further to allow the belt to be fully around the idler pulley.
1)is there supposed to be something back there?
2)or should a little gap exist where the belt extends out over the pulley by a mm or two?
3) also, noticed that when i start the car, there is a metallic noise coming from the engine bay (havent located it yet) that goes away after about 10 seconds of warming up. any ideas? is this a pulley bearing?
just tried to loosen up the belt with that outside hex bolt. was not able to take the belt off as the tensioner pulley itself was loosening up. did not have a star head in the garage to try the somewhat stripped star bolt. will have to try that messing with that later. if it is too stripped, i guess i will have to replace that star bolt.
about the idler pulley with the washer:
i was able to loosen up the tensioner a tin bit, but just enough to push the belt over the middle idler pulley so it is on there all the way. when starting the car, the belt just "fixed itself" and came back off the pulley a little bit by 2 or so mm.
so the order that is currently on their is the pulley, a black washer (that is not supposed to be there), and then silver bolt. i came to the realization that perhaps, a washer or something might need to be installed behind the pulley to give it more clearance and extend it out a little further to allow the belt to be fully around the idler pulley.
1)is there supposed to be something back there?
2)or should a little gap exist where the belt extends out over the pulley by a mm or two?
3) also, noticed that when i start the car, there is a metallic noise coming from the engine bay (havent located it yet) that goes away after about 10 seconds of warming up. any ideas? is this a pulley bearing?
Last edited by jturkel; 04-19-2009 at 04:44 PM.
#30
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
the oem middle idler pulley doesnt need the washer. The oem pulley has a built in washer inside that moves independently of the pulley itself. its pretty ingenious of mercedes. The code3 doesn't have that built in washer thats why it needs the black washer to provide clearance so the pulley can move.
that metalic noise is probably the bearing. My upper supercharger idle pulley made the same noise in the morning until replaced it with the code3 one.
that metalic noise is probably the bearing. My upper supercharger idle pulley made the same noise in the morning until replaced it with the code3 one.
#32
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i need the part number for that star head bolt, assuming i can order it separately. anyone know it? how easy would it be of a job to replace this? do i need to take off the tensioner pulley setup to replace this?
#33
CONFUSED
Reading these posts got me really confused,first he says the bolts on order,then he asks for the part number and if it can be ordered, says he has the right tools ,then asks what size then says he does not have the tool,who really messed up his tensioner,the amateur or the pro--who knows,but I can tell you that if you look on mercedes free parts web site--epc net you will see that the bolt he talks about is not available,its a free web site that will save tons of time and confusion for all of us.
#34
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Reading these posts got me really confused,first he says the bolts on order,then he asks for the part number and if it can be ordered, says he has the right tools ,then asks what size then says he does not have the tool,who really messed up his tensioner,the amateur or the pro--who knows,but I can tell you that if you look on mercedes free parts web site--epc net you will see that the bolt he talks about is not available,its a free web site that will save tons of time and confusion for all of us.
random first post by the way....you don't even own a c32
#35
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2003 porsche 996 turbo
jish i had my tensioner off and i cant find any way to get the bolt out. its spring loaded and theres no way to remove it. sorry!
#36
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C55,SL55,C63
Reading these posts got me really confused,first he says the bolts on order,then he asks for the part number and if it can be ordered, says he has the right tools ,then asks what size then says he does not have the tool,who really messed up his tensioner,the amateur or the pro--who knows,but I can tell you that if you look on mercedes free parts web site--epc net you will see that the bolt he talks about is not available,its a free web site that will save tons of time and confusion for all of us.
Very random first post BTW.
And for the new guys http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/
#37
Senior Member
JTurkel, Put the needswings kit on. Didn't you have one somewhere? I say it becasue it actually requires less tension to put the belt on (comes with kit) than the stock belt on stock pullies. My Star bolt is stripped too and I can just tighten the tensioner bolt (not that holds pulley on) a bit then slowly turn it the other way...I do it slowly wth one hand while firmly snaking the belt around the tensioner pulley with the other. It'll work stock too...jusdt a lot tighter...but why not upgrade while you're at it?
Also...I'm, not so sure you can just replace the bolt...maybe get it pressed in or something?? Let me know how that goes as I may need to do the same someday. Worst case here..not sure how much the whole assembly costs, but the install looks pretty easy.
Also...I'm, not so sure you can just replace the bolt...maybe get it pressed in or something?? Let me know how that goes as I may need to do the same someday. Worst case here..not sure how much the whole assembly costs, but the install looks pretty easy.
#38
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JTurkel, Put the needswings kit on. Didn't you have one somewhere? I say it becasue it actually requires less tension to put the belt on (comes with kit) than the stock belt on stock pullies. My Star bolt is stripped too and I can just tighten the tensioner bolt (not that holds pulley on) a bit then slowly turn it the other way...I do it slowly wth one hand while firmly snaking the belt around the tensioner pulley with the other. It'll work stock too...jusdt a lot tighter...but why not upgrade while you're at it?
Also...I'm, not so sure you can just replace the bolt...maybe get it pressed in or something?? Let me know how that goes as I may need to do the same someday. Worst case here..not sure how much the whole assembly costs, but the install looks pretty easy.
Also...I'm, not so sure you can just replace the bolt...maybe get it pressed in or something?? Let me know how that goes as I may need to do the same someday. Worst case here..not sure how much the whole assembly costs, but the install looks pretty easy.
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#40
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My tensioner bolt is stripped. I'm to blame for that one... E12 seemed a perfect fit, but a hard to find E11 socket is required. Bought a great deep socket set on Sears.com for $40 dollars that includes E11. It was slightly stripped at the time of purchasing the vehicle, and a E10 wouldn't fit, so not sure if it's actually E10, but I believe it's E11. Can anyone verify? Pulley nut works fine for loosening the tensioner. Be very careful not to get your fingers in the wrong place as the nut can loosen at any time. Haven't had any issues with that though.
Last edited by gt4awd; 04-03-2010 at 12:55 PM.
#42
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C32/C55 AMG
I'm a 100% sure that it's suppose to be an e11. I started stripping the bolt when using an e12 and an e10 just doesn't fit. I found the info on mbworld, but I can't seem to find the thread any more.
I had a hard time finding an e11 socket in town and I had to wait and order one online. Always make sure you have the right tools before you go at it, or you'll end up like me, stuck with out a car until you get the right tools. Happened to me when I was trying to replace my supercharger pulley bearing.
I suggest every one invest in a good inverse torx socket set. Our cars use a lot of them.
I had a hard time finding an e11 socket in town and I had to wait and order one online. Always make sure you have the right tools before you go at it, or you'll end up like me, stuck with out a car until you get the right tools. Happened to me when I was trying to replace my supercharger pulley bearing.
I suggest every one invest in a good inverse torx socket set. Our cars use a lot of them.
Last edited by loudandheard; 04-04-2010 at 12:01 PM.
#44
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C32/C55 AMG
I wonder if there are different sizes for different years?
Here's the link to the code 3 directions : https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...s-video-4.html
#47
TORX KIT
The size for the adjuster is indeed an 11 it is available in a torx set from mercedes part number 001 589 76 09 00,not sure how much the kit is now but used to be only $89 for 17 bits quarter,through half inch drive-the kit is listed in the special tool list of wis which we all know of course.