C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Heat Wrap Anyone?

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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 02:04 PM
  #26  
jturkel's Avatar
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02 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by AMG-Driver
The problem with the 6th Cylinder never came back. The car runs fantastic. I spoke with my tuner, and he says the missfire did not come from the colder IATs. He said the colder, the better!! Please note that the problem was only at 6.200 RPM in 5TH gear. Maybe it was bad gas. To be on the safe side, I will change my spark-plugs on CYL.6 and change my fuel filter. But everything seems to be fine now.

To do the insulation wrap you have to remove the supercharger. The IC does not break because of the stronger pump. The pressure in the IC is higher on the Air-Side than on the liquid side. I prefer a separated system, because of lower fluid temps and because of the advantage to run the intercooler system with less Glycol. ( better Heat-Transfer of the IC-fluid)
hmm.....ok. glad to hear it wasnt b/c of the cold temps. how long would it take to remove the s/c and ic to wrap them and lay down that insulation the cylinder v?

also, im guessing the CM90 flows MORE than the CM30 is that correct? any reason why you chose that much more flow? i know some guys over on the srt6 forum are using that meziere (spelling?) pump like eleventeen and are happy with that too.

also, if you are running the CM90 pump FULL time, arent you concerned about the life of the pump? i'd imagine running a pump all the time would dramatically shorten its life, and that with your amazing cooling setup, you probably wouldnt even need to run it all the time?

Originally Posted by FrankW
only old school C32 guys who went with evosport kit early on did that. They used the washer fluid tank as secondary reservoir. I have the evosport pulley kit, but I never done it. with the HE and CM30 pump the cooling is fine.
haha....i remember that kit now, but never realized thats what it actually was for. i was gonna get one from Brandon before he was code3, but he said it was worthless. glad to hear your cooling setup is sufficient. i guess the 185 and hot az temps are just killing MY car lol.

Originally Posted by rockjock
Thats not that bad-here in MN (sunny and 75) I can get to 210-215 with DD-most engines need to be around 200-212 for "optimal" operating temps.
At the track-I could get me Evo X up to 240 (prior to switching to pure water)-the C55 hit 215 on a sunny 80 deg day last week up there.
I assume you are running 100% water and wetter? I dont/wouldnt think you have to worry about freezing like I do
yah....i dont actually know my IATs.....i was for some reason thinking the read out was giving me IATs but its not. i really want to monitor those asap. i just equate coolant temps of that hot with heat soak, as that seems to be when i get heat soaked out here

actually, my setup is straight 50/50 MB coolant distilled water mix. i have thought about changing that mixture to more like 70/30 or 60/40 in favor of water but havent gotten around to it yet. i think running pure water would be bad though.

While running pure water may help for a little, there are too many problems with doing that. its not too cold here to do that, but too hot. water boils at 212 which means that i would have some major issues if i ran pure water. if the coolant mixture boils it obviously will cause problems. Adding in the coolant to the water changes the colligative properties of the coolant solution by decreasing its vapor pressure, thus raising the boiling point of that mixture to like 225 or something (love chemistry, my fav subject in college lol). so its completely necessary to use at least a 30 or 40% mixture containing coolant.

As far as water wetter, no i'm not running that either. someone actually told me it doesnt do anything though i want to try it anyway. (lol actually just did a search and found this:http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/red...%C2%AE-review/)

after hearing and reading about water wetter, i just dont trust it enough to run straight water with it. i'd definitley consider adding it to a mixture though
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 02:23 AM
  #27  
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From: Germany
SL65 R230
Originally Posted by jturkel
hmm.....ok. glad to hear it wasnt b/c of the cold temps. how long would it take to remove the s/c and ic to wrap them and lay down that insulation the cylinder v?

also, im guessing the CM90 flows MORE than the CM30 is that correct? any reason why you chose that much more flow? i know some guys over on the srt6 forum are using that meziere (spelling?) pump like eleventeen and are happy with that too.

also, if you are running the CM90 pump FULL time, arent you concerned about the life of the pump? i'd imagine running a pump all the time would dramatically shorten its life, and that with your amazing cooling setup, you probably wouldnt even need to run it all the time?


The CM90 is built for continuous operation. Gerhard Schruf from Bell Intercoolers told me the optimal flow in my system is 8,5 GPM. This is never achievable with the CM30, Bosch etc. You have to read the flow charts of the different pumps carefully, because a high quality pump has good flow even when there is much backpressure in the system, not only in free flow. CM90 flows 3-4 times more than CM30 with backpressure. The Meziere Pump is not magnetically driven, and therefore it is quite loud from what I heard. I think the CM90 is one of the best pumps available, downside is that it is quite expensive (400 Euro).

Removing the SC and do the Heat-Wrap is 2-3 hours, if you have practical experience.
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 02:30 AM
  #28  
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02 C32 AMG
Originally Posted by AMG-Driver
The CM90 is built for continuous operation. Gerhard Schruf from Bell Intercoolers told me the optimal flow in my system is 8,5 GPM. This is never achievable with the CM30, Bosch etc. You have to read the flow charts of the different pumps carefully, because a high quality pump has good flow even when there is much backpressure in the system, not only in free flow. CM90 flows 3-4 times more than CM30 with backpressure. The Meziere Pump is not magnetically driven, and therefore it is quite loud from what I heard. I think the CM90 is one of the best pumps available, downside is that it is quite expensive (400 Euro).

Removing the SC and do the Heat-Wrap is 2-3 hours, if you have practical experience.
thanks for the info! spoke with my buddy today (hooley) and looks like i'll be separating the system similar to his setup within a week or so. undecided about the IC pump though. cant afford a CM90 for the time being. we'll see

if the s/c removal and heat wrap take 2-3 hrs, i may do that within the month. thanks again!

also, and this is for anyone, does ANYONE think there is any more room in the engine bay somewhere for a second heat exchanger (stock C32 one)?.......i know this might sound crazy, but would a bottom mount h/e do much? i know some cars actually have bottom mount air/air ICs on their F/I setups
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