FrankW

just for some minor assurance my misfire didn't cause erratic idle. it stayed pretty much at the same rpm, but with crap sounding exhaust note and shakes. if it's misfiring you would definitely feel the shake when ever you come to a stop and ease of the brake pedal letting it coast.

did you replace the sensor on the pedal? your case sounds very much like what happened to me last summer.

last summer my car was in limp mode (prior to the misfire events) was when the TPS failed. The CEL came on as well as the ESP I believe and the car was in limp. There was erratic idle. The dealer replaced the TPS on the gas pedal, the throttle body and the throttle cable/actuator that connects to the throttle body. the throttle body and the cable both had M113 part number on it. After they replaced the parts the issue went away.

TemjinX2

do you have the part number for the tps?

TemjinX2

after playing around the car more and reading franks thread. i believe he's right its my tps sensor. The esp errors i was getting before from the bad throttle actuator threw me off.

I turned the car and i can't even rev it when i push the accelerator.

FrankW

looked around, but can't find a part number.

I know dealership sells it with the gas pedal assembly.

TemjinX2

yeah i can't separate the sensor..it has some kind of special torex with a stud in the middle.

they must've changed part #'s since the old part number isn't working.

TemjinX2

here's a update...

i just ordered the pedal assembly on monday.

old part number is A 203 300 01 04

I called the dealership and they told me the new part number is

211 300 08 04

FrankW

wow the price has gone up quite a bit.

TemjinX2

yeah on parts.com its $180 with shipping. At the dealership is $274 plus tax. I asked if they can go any lower and they pretty much said that was the price.

djoa

Never do this!!!!

The acuator can't match with the ECU after 50 firing times. The ECU will enter into LIMP mode.

///AMG4EVER

I hope you get the right pedal assy. When I was troubleshooting mine, I started with the TPS approach and after ordering the updated pedal assy, the adapter by the sensor was different... The dealer took it back without a problem.

At the end, the TPS wasn't the problem, it turned out to be the actual TB and TB harness. Both replaced for 20% of the value of the car.

We are still maintaining a $60K car unfortunately...

Gramma_Benz

Yeah, when diagnosing mine, my mechanic hooked up his scan tool and we went driving and looked up all the error codes. Everything pointed to the Throttle body actuator. I was hoping that it was also the pedal assembly, but it wasn't. Currently I had the throttle body rebuilt and the new harness adaptor. It's been OK, so far, but who knows for how long!

Good luck brother!

kindafast

updates?

1qikctr

This suxx... hope you get it fix soon.

TemjinX2

sorry... i havent fixed the problem. Basically its not the throttle actuator since i replaced it. I pulled the codes.

I got

code 4600 -voltage of supply circuit 87 undervoltage

code 4520 - the feedback through the transmission protection is not maintained.

Basically i only get it when it go around 65-70 and then slow down to 20-40 during traffic. The supercharger disengages and i got the esp when i make that transistion. When i turn off the car and turn it back on it resets. The problems seems to be random time intervals and it only happens when i transistion to lower gears. When i'm doing hwy speeds its perfect for hrs.

I replaced the engine relays...i just changed out the transmission brushing and transmission O-rings. I did noticed my transmission O-rings were bad and were leaking.

I'm going to see if this helps....

The cars been giving me so much trouble last 3months and i dumped so much money into it..i'm thinking of just trading it in for a 335i.

I'll keep everyone updated.

kindafast

I feel you man!

TemjinX2

anyways...i replaced the o-rings there was some fluid leakage from the transmission plug...But my friend who was helping didn't put the tcu plug all the way in and caused a tranny cell... I don't think its resetable without star.

I'm probably just gonna buy pshek's tcu and he's gonna come over on monday and reset the cells for me using his star machine...

Hopefully a new tcu should fix my issues.

TemjinX2

yeah...i looked at some 06 m5's on autotrader.. There going for as low as $36k with 25k miles on it in socal...

kindafast

What!? There has to be a catch

TemjinX2

i found a few in the low 40's too...i guess there's a greater demand for m3's. My friend just bought a 07 m3 for $55k.

saer1one

You should also look at the m6 since they are almost going for the same $$ as the m5..

TemjinX2

yeah maybe next yr...if the c32 keeps giving me problems.

TemjinX2

ok...pshek came over with his star machine today. He cleared the codes and i bought a new tcu from him.

First thing i would suggest is getting all your codes cleared on star. I think most of the codes i had were just stored codes on the ecu that kepted going off from my previous throttle body issue.

I think my tcu might have been going bad though.

When i installed the new tcu from pshek...my transmission shifted better. With my old tcu...i would get a metal clank sound when i went from P to R. With the new tcu..it was quiet.

So it seems more of a software issue then a mechanical one. I think eventually i'm going to buy a star machine in the future.

I beat the crap out of it in test runs to try to trigger a code, but so far..no codes and its pretty strong. I'll drive it some more and give updates. Hopefully this will be the end of my esp issue.

TemjinX2

as a update....

i drop it for an hr and i still have the undervoltage problem. i have no clue anymore. Only other i can think of is, just the battery. Pshek i was only registering a 12.4v when it should be i think 13.4 v

///AMG4EVER

TemjinX2 - I hate to say this but I have to...

This is the common path we all take when trying to figure unknown things out ourselves... we spend months chasing down the problem only to end up with no other choice but to take it to the stealer.

A year ago I had a coolant leak that I thought I had tackle down... I lived with it for months replacing potential pieces here and there... At the end, it costed more time and money than what I was originally trying to avoid... the stealer.

Then a few months later, I had your same problem. Read through the forum and tried and gave it a shot. Problem persisted and decided just to take it to the stealer. Got the car back up and running in a week. Lesson learned.

This post doesn't have an specific purpose... just common sense to everyone else that these cars are hard to deal with sometimes and as crazy as it sounds, the best approach is to take to the experts; either the dealer or a VERY competent MB indy shop.

Keep posting your progresss, you are paving the path for the future members here... Good luck.

dkflipse

Can't comment on the TCU. But I did have the same exact metal on metal clank and it was the shift linkage. I think it was a $90 repair at an indy.