Servicing/Rebulding their SC
12-13-2009, 11:39 PM
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C32 '02
Servicing/Rebulding their SC
I found something interesting and wanted to see if anyone has "rebuilt" their SC which includes changing the oil part no. A000 989 62 01. and also replacing the bearings and gaskets etc... Here is a pictures of the OEM oils.
Last edited by ML500K; 12-13-2009 at 11:42 PM.
12-14-2009, 09:47 AM
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Wow. I have always thought that this was nearly impossible for mere mortals to accomplish. Good luck to you during this endeavor.
Please do keep us updated with photos.
Please do keep us updated with photos.
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12-14-2009, 09:24 PM
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C32 '02
Peace of mind I guess heh. The SC is working fine now, i think changing new oils and bearings will close the tolerance to new and the guy said the SC will def run smoother. I used to have a C200K with the eaton SC, and i can tell you that our IHI SC is a much better unit. I had that eaton unit rebuilt as well with about the same mileage. At that time, the SC was quite loud, due to worn out bearings. and man does the oil smell like !@#$%...
12-15-2009, 09:43 AM
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C32 '02
I'm in for a shocker!
First of all I want to clear something up, the full rebuild costs about 800 dollars. Oil, bearings & gaskets. Bearings according to him are custom made and of a higher quality that stock (he said it is very difficult if not impossible to source those bearings)
The guy suggested that I didn't need a full rebuild and the bearings felt like they still turned pretty smoothly. So I just went for the SC oil change. The procedure is very easy and can be DIYed by anyone handy with tools. You probably need some sort of suction device to suck the SC oil out.
Now what I was shocked was that only about 30CC of oil got sucked out.
Had I not thought about changing the oil, the SC was a ticking time bomb waiting to explode imo. The cost of the oil is fairly cheap, just one bottle is enough. Cost about 100 dollars to get it done. PN for the oil is on my first post and yes its a real MB number; called a few local parts vendor to verify it before i went to change it.
So my recommendation to you all is to have it checked/changed ASAP, your SC might be running "dry" without any lubrication. Make sure you get the oils before unplugging the screw.
So here's the procedure:
1) take off the secondary air pump plumbing
2) take of the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks. But in my case nothing...
4) use a oil suction device, put it through the hole and start sucking away.
1 bottle of oil is like 120CC, not very much.
5) The guy attached a long tube to the bottle and put it through the hole and started squeezing it out. It did take a while to squeeze all of the oil in. about 10 mins.
5) put the screw back on, ,install the pulley and plumbing and your ready to rockin roll.
First pic is sucking it out & Second pic s squeezing some fresh juice into the SC.
I do plan on changing the oil really soon again as mine was really dry to begin with and cause the oil probably has never been changed ever. Sort of like a "flush". The guy recommended that the SC oil be changed every 40K KM. I think every 30K Miles is good enough.
Conclusion:
After this procedure, I can say that the SC runs quite smoothly, considering it now has oil in it
And it does spin up a little faster. The way i can distinguish this is by cruising on 4th gear at about 60km/h (37mph) then pushing the throttle deep enough but without letting the gears kick down. I can hear the SC engaging. Before, the sound after the engagement you can hear the the SC is spinning slower as compare to now, it spinning a bit faster. I have a code3 style intake so its easy to hear the pitch difference of the SC whine.
So fellas there you have it, go get the SC oil changed/added and might get a few lost ponies on the way, and a peace of mind.
The guy suggested that I didn't need a full rebuild and the bearings felt like they still turned pretty smoothly. So I just went for the SC oil change. The procedure is very easy and can be DIYed by anyone handy with tools. You probably need some sort of suction device to suck the SC oil out.
Now what I was shocked was that only about 30CC of oil got sucked out.
Had I not thought about changing the oil, the SC was a ticking time bomb waiting to explode imo. The cost of the oil is fairly cheap, just one bottle is enough. Cost about 100 dollars to get it done. PN for the oil is on my first post and yes its a real MB number; called a few local parts vendor to verify it before i went to change it. So my recommendation to you all is to have it checked/changed ASAP, your SC might be running "dry" without any lubrication. Make sure you get the oils before unplugging the screw.
So here's the procedure:
1) take off the secondary air pump plumbing
2) take of the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks. But in my case nothing...
4) use a oil suction device, put it through the hole and start sucking away.
1 bottle of oil is like 120CC, not very much.
5) The guy attached a long tube to the bottle and put it through the hole and started squeezing it out. It did take a while to squeeze all of the oil in. about 10 mins.
5) put the screw back on, ,install the pulley and plumbing and your ready to rockin roll.
First pic is sucking it out & Second pic s squeezing some fresh juice into the SC.
I do plan on changing the oil really soon again as mine was really dry to begin with and cause the oil probably has never been changed ever. Sort of like a "flush". The guy recommended that the SC oil be changed every 40K KM. I think every 30K Miles is good enough.
Conclusion:
After this procedure, I can say that the SC runs quite smoothly, considering it now has oil in it
And it does spin up a little faster. The way i can distinguish this is by cruising on 4th gear at about 60km/h (37mph) then pushing the throttle deep enough but without letting the gears kick down. I can hear the SC engaging. Before, the sound after the engagement you can hear the the SC is spinning slower as compare to now, it spinning a bit faster. I have a code3 style intake so its easy to hear the pitch difference of the SC whine.So fellas there you have it, go get the SC oil changed/added and might get a few lost ponies on the way, and a peace of mind.
Last edited by ML500K; 12-15-2009 at 09:55 AM.
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purplecat001 (10-20-2016)
12-15-2009, 10:00 AM
#12
12-15-2009, 10:03 AM
#13
First of all I want to clear something up, the full rebuild costs about 800 dollars. Oil, bearings & gaskets. Bearings according to him are custom made and of a higher quality that stock (he said it is very difficult if not impossible to source those bearings)
The guy suggested that I didn't need a full rebuild and the bearings felt like they still turned pretty smoothly. So I just went for the SC oil change. The procedure is very easy and can be DIYed by anyone handy with tools. You probably need some sort of suction device to suck the SC oil out.
Now what I was shocked was that only about 30CC of oil got sucked out. Had I not thought about changing the oil, the SC was a ticking time bomb waiting to explode imo. The cost of the oil is fairly cheap, just one bottle is enough. Cost about 100 dollars to get it done. PN for the oil is on my first post and yes its a real MB number; called a few local parts vendor to verify it before i went to change it.
So my recommendation to you all is to have it checked/changed ASAP, your SC might be running "dry" without any lubrication. Make sure you get the oils before unplugging the screw.
So here's the procedure:
1) take off the secondary air pump plumbing
2) take of the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks. But in my case nothing...
4) use a oil suction device, put it through the hole and start sucking away.
1 bottle of oil is like 120CC, not very much.
5) The guy attached a long tube to the bottle and put it through the hole and started squeezing it out. It did take a while to squeeze all of the oil in. about 10 mins.
5) put the screw back on, ,install the pulley and plumbing and your ready to rockin roll.
First pic is sucking it out & Second pic s squeezing some fresh juice into the SC.
I do plan on changing the oil really soon again as mine was really dry to begin with and cause the oil probably has never been changed ever. Sort of like a "flush". The guy recommended that the SC oil be changed every 40K KM. I think every 30K Miles is good enough.
Conclusion:
After this procedure, I can say that the SC runs quite smoothly, considering it now has oil in it And it does spin up a little faster. The way i can distinguish this is by cruising on 4th gear at about 60km/h (37mph) then pushing the throttle deep enough but without letting the gears kick down. I can hear the SC engaging. Before, the sound after the engagement you can hear the the SC is spinning slower as compare to now, it spinning a bit faster. I have a code3 style intake so its easy to hear the pitch difference of the SC whine.
So fellas there you have it, go get the SC oil changed/added and might get a few lost ponies on the way, and a peace of mind.
The guy suggested that I didn't need a full rebuild and the bearings felt like they still turned pretty smoothly. So I just went for the SC oil change. The procedure is very easy and can be DIYed by anyone handy with tools. You probably need some sort of suction device to suck the SC oil out.
Now what I was shocked was that only about 30CC of oil got sucked out.
Had I not thought about changing the oil, the SC was a ticking time bomb waiting to explode imo. The cost of the oil is fairly cheap, just one bottle is enough. Cost about 100 dollars to get it done. PN for the oil is on my first post and yes its a real MB number; called a few local parts vendor to verify it before i went to change it. So my recommendation to you all is to have it checked/changed ASAP, your SC might be running "dry" without any lubrication. Make sure you get the oils before unplugging the screw.
So here's the procedure:
1) take off the secondary air pump plumbing
2) take of the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks. But in my case nothing...
4) use a oil suction device, put it through the hole and start sucking away.
1 bottle of oil is like 120CC, not very much.
5) The guy attached a long tube to the bottle and put it through the hole and started squeezing it out. It did take a while to squeeze all of the oil in. about 10 mins.
5) put the screw back on, ,install the pulley and plumbing and your ready to rockin roll.
First pic is sucking it out & Second pic s squeezing some fresh juice into the SC.
I do plan on changing the oil really soon again as mine was really dry to begin with and cause the oil probably has never been changed ever. Sort of like a "flush". The guy recommended that the SC oil be changed every 40K KM. I think every 30K Miles is good enough.
Conclusion:
After this procedure, I can say that the SC runs quite smoothly, considering it now has oil in it
And it does spin up a little faster. The way i can distinguish this is by cruising on 4th gear at about 60km/h (37mph) then pushing the throttle deep enough but without letting the gears kick down. I can hear the SC engaging. Before, the sound after the engagement you can hear the the SC is spinning slower as compare to now, it spinning a bit faster. I have a code3 style intake so its easy to hear the pitch difference of the SC whine.So fellas there you have it, go get the SC oil changed/added and might get a few lost ponies on the way, and a peace of mind.
12-15-2009, 02:39 PM
#14
Senior Member
I will definetly look into doing this given that i dont think it has ever been done in my car im getting close to 110K and I stoped going to the stealership at 60k miles since its a system that requires lubrication and spins at a pretty fast rate its only normal that it would have some kind of consumption and perhaps the stealership wont tell us that so we can just replace the whole sc when its shot due to lack of lubrication. keep us posted.
12-15-2009, 03:12 PM
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Silver 02 C32 & White 05 CLK500
Great thread! Did you add all five bottles of lubricant from your first picture or was only one of those bottles a lubricant? What is the maximum of lubricant that the sc can take in and how did you know to add enough not to overflow it with oil(given that there is a chance you might not have sucked out all of the old oil)? Sorry for the questions, and thank you for discovering this for us
.
.
12-15-2009, 10:54 PM
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C32 '02
Great thread! Did you add all five bottles of lubricant from your first picture or was only one of those bottles a lubricant? What is the maximum of lubricant that the sc can take in and how did you know to add enough not to overflow it with oil(given that there is a chance you might not have sucked out all of the old oil)? Sorry for the questions, and thank you for discovering this for us.
.I just called the other guy and he said to fill up all the way until oil starts flowing out of the hole. Looks like i don't have enough oil then and makes me wonder why he only added one bottle. hopefully its not because he's expecting me to do a full rebuild, now that would not be cool. Now that i know the procedure, i'm going back to my regular mechanic and have them do it. I think its always better have someone you trust fix your car.
Last edited by ML500K; 12-16-2009 at 01:07 AM.
12-16-2009, 03:31 AM
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C32 '02
Getting it done right
Here is an update DIY instructions: And I replaced the oil again!
Tools & Mats needed:
-E10 & E12
-largest syringe you can find , 100CC if possible
-12 inch r/c car fuel tubing or similar that can be attached to the tip of the syringe
- 1 bottle of A000 989 62 01 Supercharger Oil ( ONE bottle is all we need! ) Cost of oil is 60 dollars
- Some pipe thread white stuff, not sure what that is called ( see pics)
1) Use E10 to take off the secondary air pump plumbing brackets
2) Use E12 to take off the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) Use E10 to turn the belt tensioner to take off the belt
4) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks.
5) Use a syringe to suck up the oil, this way you know how much was still in your SC to begin with. You will have to suck a few times to get all of it out.
6) Purge all oil from the syringe and tubing
7) Pour the new oil directly into the syringe ( as shown in the video ) and pump it in slowly. Repeat until the whole bottle is in. You might want an extra pair of hands to help you hold the syringe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olKmcCVjAb8
8) Thread the sc plug with white piping film
9) Screw the plug back into the SC until its tight. The plug should be a bit lower than flush to the sc
10) reinstall piping, brackets and make sure your belt is all lined up
11) start engine and check for to see if everything is in order.
Note: As you can see in the last pic the oil which is being sucks out, it was still quite dirty. I had this procedure done just yesterday. But now i'm sure its nice and clean. so depending on your situation, you might need to flush or not. In my case there was almost no oil to begin with, hence "flushing" it was a good idea imo. ymmv.
Cheers,
Tools & Mats needed:
-E10 & E12
-largest syringe you can find , 100CC if possible
-12 inch r/c car fuel tubing or similar that can be attached to the tip of the syringe
- 1 bottle of A000 989 62 01 Supercharger Oil ( ONE bottle is all we need! ) Cost of oil is 60 dollars
- Some pipe thread white stuff, not sure what that is called ( see pics)
1) Use E10 to take off the secondary air pump plumbing brackets
2) Use E12 to take off the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) Use E10 to turn the belt tensioner to take off the belt
4) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks.
5) Use a syringe to suck up the oil, this way you know how much was still in your SC to begin with. You will have to suck a few times to get all of it out.
6) Purge all oil from the syringe and tubing
7) Pour the new oil directly into the syringe ( as shown in the video ) and pump it in slowly. Repeat until the whole bottle is in. You might want an extra pair of hands to help you hold the syringe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olKmcCVjAb8
8) Thread the sc plug with white piping film
9) Screw the plug back into the SC until its tight. The plug should be a bit lower than flush to the sc
10) reinstall piping, brackets and make sure your belt is all lined up
11) start engine and check for to see if everything is in order.
Note: As you can see in the last pic the oil which is being sucks out, it was still quite dirty. I had this procedure done just yesterday. But now i'm sure its nice and clean. so depending on your situation, you might need to flush or not. In my case there was almost no oil to begin with, hence "flushing" it was a good idea imo. ymmv.
Cheers,
Last edited by ML500K; 12-16-2009 at 03:48 AM.
12-16-2009, 09:37 AM
#24
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C55,SL55,C63
Here is an update DIY instructions: And I replaced the oil again!
Tools & Mats needed:
-E10 & E12
-largest syringe you can find , 100CC if possible
-12 inch r/c car fuel tubing or similar that can be attached to the tip of the syringe
- 1 bottle of A000 989 62 01 Supercharger Oil ( ONE bottle is all we need! ) Cost of oil is 60 dollars
- Some pipe thread white stuff, not sure what that is called ( see pics)
1) Use E10 to take off the secondary air pump plumbing brackets
2) Use E12 to take off the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) Use E10 to turn the belt tensioner to take off the belt
4) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks.
5) Use a syringe to suck up the oil, this way you know how much was still in your SC to begin with. You will have to suck a few times to get all of it out.
6) Purge all oil from the syringe and tubing
7) Pour the new oil directly into the syringe ( as shown in the video ) and pump it in slowly. Repeat until the whole bottle is in. You might want an extra pair of hands to help you hold the syringe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olKmcCVjAb8
8) Thread the sc plug with white piping film
9) Screw the plug back into the SC until its tight. The plug should be a bit lower than flush to the sc
10) reinstall piping, brackets and make sure your belt is all lined up
11) start engine and check for to see if everything is in order.
Note: As you can see in the last pic the oil which is being sucks out, it was still quite dirty. I had this procedure done just yesterday. But now i'm sure its nice and clean. so depending on your situation, you might need to flush or not. In my case there was almost no oil to begin with, hence "flushing" it was a good idea imo. ymmv.
Cheers,
Tools & Mats needed:
-E10 & E12
-largest syringe you can find , 100CC if possible
-12 inch r/c car fuel tubing or similar that can be attached to the tip of the syringe
- 1 bottle of A000 989 62 01 Supercharger Oil ( ONE bottle is all we need! ) Cost of oil is 60 dollars
- Some pipe thread white stuff, not sure what that is called ( see pics)
1) Use E10 to take off the secondary air pump plumbing brackets
2) Use E12 to take off the small pulley next to the SC ( if you still have one )
3) Use E10 to turn the belt tensioner to take off the belt
4) On the front of the SC and on the left side is a small hole with a screw,
you need to unscrew that , You should put some rags below it cause the oils might flow out and it really stinks.
5) Use a syringe to suck up the oil, this way you know how much was still in your SC to begin with. You will have to suck a few times to get all of it out.
6) Purge all oil from the syringe and tubing
7) Pour the new oil directly into the syringe ( as shown in the video ) and pump it in slowly. Repeat until the whole bottle is in. You might want an extra pair of hands to help you hold the syringe. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olKmcCVjAb8
8) Thread the sc plug with white piping film
9) Screw the plug back into the SC until its tight. The plug should be a bit lower than flush to the sc
10) reinstall piping, brackets and make sure your belt is all lined up
11) start engine and check for to see if everything is in order.
Note: As you can see in the last pic the oil which is being sucks out, it was still quite dirty. I had this procedure done just yesterday. But now i'm sure its nice and clean. so depending on your situation, you might need to flush or not. In my case there was almost no oil to begin with, hence "flushing" it was a good idea imo. ymmv.
Cheers,
Getting the feeling this is bad news
Now everyone is going to want to change their SC fluid. I dont know if thats a good or bad thing.
12-16-2009, 09:45 AM
#25
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C32 '02
If there is any consolation, I ran without much oil for God knows how long and looks/sounds like everything is fine after the change. Higher mileage cars I would def get it checked out soon.
Last edited by ML500K; 12-16-2009 at 09:48 AM.
