Repair bill more than the value of car?
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
Repair bill more than the value of car?
So, they replaced the CPS and I got 2 miles before my car died again while running. They tried to replace the crank pulley and the new pulley wobbled more than the old one so they put the old one back on.
So like I said, I get 2 miles and the car dies. It starts up like 20 minutes later and I manage to get to a parking spot. I tried to start it up again a couple times, once it started, once it did not.
I called the mechanic back, and he seems to think that the reason the CPS was freaking out and the reason the pulley was wobbling was that there is excess movement in the crankshaft, i.e. my crankshaft is shot.
Does this make sense? Is that a possibility?
He suggested replacing the pulley with a brand new one from the dealer to rule out the pulley once and for all. Could a bad pulley cause movement in the crankshaft that would make the CPS put the car in limp mode?
Finally, what are my options if the car needs a new crankshaft, i.e. the repair bill is more than the car is worth. I still owe $25k on the car, so what happens if the car is effectively a total loss? I tried to google it but I'm coming up with nothing.
Also is there any way to diagnose whether or not it is definitely the crankshaft short of spending the money for the new pulley and install?
Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry for starting a new thread, but I need as much input as possible and I thought this would get more views.
So like I said, I get 2 miles and the car dies. It starts up like 20 minutes later and I manage to get to a parking spot. I tried to start it up again a couple times, once it started, once it did not.
I called the mechanic back, and he seems to think that the reason the CPS was freaking out and the reason the pulley was wobbling was that there is excess movement in the crankshaft, i.e. my crankshaft is shot.
Does this make sense? Is that a possibility?
He suggested replacing the pulley with a brand new one from the dealer to rule out the pulley once and for all. Could a bad pulley cause movement in the crankshaft that would make the CPS put the car in limp mode?
Finally, what are my options if the car needs a new crankshaft, i.e. the repair bill is more than the car is worth. I still owe $25k on the car, so what happens if the car is effectively a total loss? I tried to google it but I'm coming up with nothing.
Also is there any way to diagnose whether or not it is definitely the crankshaft short of spending the money for the new pulley and install?
Any help would be appreciated.
Sorry for starting a new thread, but I need as much input as possible and I thought this would get more views.
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
it just sounds like the dealership is milking you for all your worth. Your cars a 05...i really double it would be a bad crank pulley. Even with a horrible wobble the car would still run. Just look at ml500k wobblie pulley thread.
go to a indy mercedes shop with a STAR machine and pull the codes. The star machine will tell you exactly whats wrong. Thats the reason mercedes developed the star system.
go to a indy mercedes shop with a STAR machine and pull the codes. The star machine will tell you exactly whats wrong. Thats the reason mercedes developed the star system.
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2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
it just sounds like the dealership is milking you for all your worth. Your cars a 05...i really double it would be a bad crank pulley. Even with a horrible wobble the car would still run. Just look at ml500k wobblie pulley thread.
go to a indy mercedes shop with a STAR machine and pull the codes. The star machine will tell you exactly whats wrong. Thats the reason mercedes developed the star system.
go to a indy mercedes shop with a STAR machine and pull the codes. The star machine will tell you exactly whats wrong. Thats the reason mercedes developed the star system.
OP - any mods?
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
I didn't take it to the dealership, I took it to the indy shop that advans recommends. They do have the star system and they claimed before I fixed it that the CPS was the problem, now they are saying that its the crankshaft. I don't know what to think right now.
No my car is completely stock. If they hook it up to star, is there any way to see if the crankshaft is damaged? The code that keeps being thrown is the CPS, is this because the CPS is detecting excess movement in the crankshaft and shutting the car down, or is this code only when the ECU isn't getting a reading from the CPS?
I absolutely hate having to take a car to a mechanic because there is no way for me to know if what they are telling me is the truth when it comes to stuff like this.
No my car is completely stock. If they hook it up to star, is there any way to see if the crankshaft is damaged? The code that keeps being thrown is the CPS, is this because the CPS is detecting excess movement in the crankshaft and shutting the car down, or is this code only when the ECU isn't getting a reading from the CPS?
I absolutely hate having to take a car to a mechanic because there is no way for me to know if what they are telling me is the truth when it comes to stuff like this.
Last edited by willc55; 12-17-2009 at 09:46 PM.
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2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
If there was that much clearance in the crank bearings, the motor would be knocking like a cold started diesel. I highly doubt the crank is bad, a M113 isn't a fragile piece, look at what it tolerates with guys like Hooley.
#7
Damn Will I was hoping everything wouldve sorted itself out. I'll give you a call in the morning and if you don't mind being without a car for a couple days I can probably take care of it. As a bonus I've got spare motors to swap parts from before going out and buying new ones!
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Rhd Integra, C55
Fyi, the crank position sensor works as a magnetic pick up. When the flywheel turns it picks up its signal from the grooves (teeth) of the flywheel. There are two things it does, commonly when it works, when cold then after it heats up, the electrical connection inside opens there fore equals to a no start. The other thing it does is that is just completely does not work. Not always does this it throw a code. Wobble/play in the crank shaft would not cause a cps to not work, the ME does not shut off the signal from the cps if "bad signals" are given. Now if your car is only throwing a cps code and it has been replaced, I would personally check the wiring between the cps and the ME or the cps again. The cps wires goes directly from the sensor through the engine harness then to the ME
Now for more information regarding the crank pulley, why was there an attempt on replacing it? A crank pulley should not be replaced unless there is a recall or if the rubber between the two halves is breaking. The crank in the m113 is really strong and if was bent, there will be excessive knocking
Hope I can at least help a little
Ricecooker
Now for more information regarding the crank pulley, why was there an attempt on replacing it? A crank pulley should not be replaced unless there is a recall or if the rubber between the two halves is breaking. The crank in the m113 is really strong and if was bent, there will be excessive knocking
Hope I can at least help a little
Ricecooker
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2005 C55, 1988 260E, 2000 Chevrolet Silverado
I wonder if they got the new CPS seated all the way in correctly? It is in a wierd spot and I remember having to push and twist it into place to seat it.
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white and whiter
crankshaft is internally balanced. there's no way in hell a M113 crankshaft will be shot especially when you don't abuse it.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
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C32 '02
if your old Crank pulley is wobbling, i think its probably dead. does it wobble mine? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA4Yq3qdnuU this is a brand new Eurocharged 185mm pulley. bolts have been tightened to spec, but still wobbling. OEM crank pulleys are pretty well made even after 75K miles....
Didn't he replace a brand new pulley to begin with? and now he wants to replace that new pulley with another new pulley? Parts should be warranted, if the new pulley that was first placed in your car had issues, then it should be replaced free. or was it a aftermarket pulley you put on that wobbled? Who made the pulley?
Didn't he replace a brand new pulley to begin with? and now he wants to replace that new pulley with another new pulley? Parts should be warranted, if the new pulley that was first placed in your car had issues, then it should be replaced free. or was it a aftermarket pulley you put on that wobbled? Who made the pulley?
Last edited by ML500K; 12-18-2009 at 04:03 AM.
#12
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crankshaft is internally balanced. there's no way in hell a M113 crankshaft will be shot especially when you don't abuse it.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
The crank pulley that was put on was a used pulley from Anthony at TVTdesigns car. It wasn't wobbling on his car, but it was wobbling a LOT on mine. I don't know if the install was bad, if the bolt is bad, who knows. Anthony give me a call any time.
#14
crankshaft is internally balanced. there's no way in hell a M113 crankshaft will be shot especially when you don't abuse it.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
crank pulley wobble = ****ty quality crank pulley. I'd suggest you take it off and return it for a refund right away before the seller start to give you excuses not to refund you. You said you bought the aftermarket one right?
CPS might not be pushed in all the way like said by others.
Hopefully we can figure out this issue without too much hassle.
#15
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Where do you live will ? I doubt the repairs will cost more than the value of the car.
113-030-09-01 CRANKSHAFT $3520.00
112-030-08-12 RING GEAR $386.00
112-032-02-52 SPACER WA $ 6.75
007-990-51-04 SCREW $0.90
113-030-00-03 SHOCK ABS $380.00
113-030-09-01 CRANKSHAFT $3520.00
112-030-08-12 RING GEAR $386.00
112-032-02-52 SPACER WA $ 6.75
007-990-51-04 SCREW $0.90
113-030-00-03 SHOCK ABS $380.00
Last edited by JonMBZ; 12-18-2009 at 12:27 PM.
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
What is the quoted labor time for the job?
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
if your old Crank pulley is wobbling, i think its probably dead. does it wobble mine? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA4Yq3qdnuU this is a brand new Eurocharged 185mm pulley. bolts have been tightened to spec, but still wobbling. OEM crank pulleys are pretty well made even after 75K miles....
Didn't he replace a brand new pulley to begin with? and now he wants to replace that new pulley with another new pulley? Parts should be warranted, if the new pulley that was first placed in your car had issues, then it should be replaced free. or was it a aftermarket pulley you put on that wobbled? Who made the pulley?
Didn't he replace a brand new pulley to begin with? and now he wants to replace that new pulley with another new pulley? Parts should be warranted, if the new pulley that was first placed in your car had issues, then it should be replaced free. or was it a aftermarket pulley you put on that wobbled? Who made the pulley?
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03 C32 gone, 06 CLS55, 16 Tesla X
Sound like your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. There is no way a crank pulley would kill the car. There is just no reason for him to change the crank pulley. If the car doesn't start/run, there are only two main reasons, no fuel or no ignition spark.
So when the car did not want to start, did you check to see whether it was fuel or spark?
If there is no fuel, it may be the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay/fuse etc. If there is no spark, it may be crank position sensor, front SAM, ignition fuse etc.
If there are fuel and ignition, the car has to start. It can run shaking like hell, smoking like hell, but it has to run. The valve might be bent, the piston might be screwed, but crank shaft
And if it’s the worst, buy a used engine ($5K????) and couple thousands for labor. BUT I DOUB IT.
Look for another mechanic and good luck
So when the car did not want to start, did you check to see whether it was fuel or spark?
If there is no fuel, it may be the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay/fuse etc. If there is no spark, it may be crank position sensor, front SAM, ignition fuse etc.
If there are fuel and ignition, the car has to start. It can run shaking like hell, smoking like hell, but it has to run. The valve might be bent, the piston might be screwed, but crank shaft
And if it’s the worst, buy a used engine ($5K????) and couple thousands for labor. BUT I DOUB IT.
Look for another mechanic and good luck
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C32 '02
Sound like your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing. There is no way a crank pulley would kill the car. There is just no reason for him to change the crank pulley. If the car doesn't start/run, there are only two main reasons, no fuel or no ignition spark.
So when the car did not want to start, did you check to see whether it was fuel or spark?
If there is no fuel, it may be the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay/fuse etc. If there is no spark, it may be crank position sensor, front SAM, ignition fuse etc.
If there are fuel and ignition, the car has to start. It can run shaking like hell, smoking like hell, but it has to run. The valve might be bent, the piston might be screwed, but crank shaft
And if it’s the worst, buy a used engine ($5K????) and couple thousands for labor. BUT I DOUB IT.
Look for another mechanic and good luck
So when the car did not want to start, did you check to see whether it was fuel or spark?
If there is no fuel, it may be the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel relay/fuse etc. If there is no spark, it may be crank position sensor, front SAM, ignition fuse etc.
If there are fuel and ignition, the car has to start. It can run shaking like hell, smoking like hell, but it has to run. The valve might be bent, the piston might be screwed, but crank shaft
And if it’s the worst, buy a used engine ($5K????) and couple thousands for labor. BUT I DOUB IT.
Look for another mechanic and good luck
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
Yeah, I agree with all of you, and I took my car to a local dealership to at the very least, diagnose the problem, so I can then decide where to get it repaired. Fortunately, a good friend of mine has spent over $250k on cars at this dealership in the last year, so they are really looking out for me with the service manager handling my car personally and only charging half their normal diagnostic fees. So I should know by Monday exactly what is wrong with the car, and how much it will cost to fix.
#23
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Cars with Stars
don't know the previous history of your car, but the pulley has nothing to do with that. if u replaced the original one with an aftermarket piece and it wobbles throw it out and fix a original one.
if a fault for the cps is there, and the cps is ok (part end nbr. 2828), let them check the wiring to the me as somebody said before,
i had once a very uniqe case, the cps was replaced by a independent "specialist", and somehow he managed to let the screw for the cps fell inside the cps hole.
other screw was used to fix, customer left, car running. after short distance engine stoped, after several times cranking started again and stopt a.s.o....
the specialist brought the car finaly to us, we checked it, and while reading the crank signal with hms (star diagnose oscilloscope) we found an unpropper reading of the cps. changed cps again, same problem. always 2 tdc marks per revolution where shown.
removed gearbox and found one teeth of the sensorwheel bend inwards (tdc signal done by a missing teeth, the bend teeth had the same efect), so the me recognised 2 tdc and therefore crank/ cam syncronisation was incorrect, engine doesn't start.
caused by a small screw.....which fell out when we pulled the trans.
so make sure if there is nothing wrong on the hardware (cps, wires, conectors, me-cu) that they read the cps signal by using the hms. if there is something wrong with the signal they'll see it there
if a fault for the cps is there, and the cps is ok (part end nbr. 2828), let them check the wiring to the me as somebody said before,
i had once a very uniqe case, the cps was replaced by a independent "specialist", and somehow he managed to let the screw for the cps fell inside the cps hole.
other screw was used to fix, customer left, car running. after short distance engine stoped, after several times cranking started again and stopt a.s.o....
the specialist brought the car finaly to us, we checked it, and while reading the crank signal with hms (star diagnose oscilloscope) we found an unpropper reading of the cps. changed cps again, same problem. always 2 tdc marks per revolution where shown.
removed gearbox and found one teeth of the sensorwheel bend inwards (tdc signal done by a missing teeth, the bend teeth had the same efect), so the me recognised 2 tdc and therefore crank/ cam syncronisation was incorrect, engine doesn't start.
caused by a small screw.....which fell out when we pulled the trans.
so make sure if there is nothing wrong on the hardware (cps, wires, conectors, me-cu) that they read the cps signal by using the hms. if there is something wrong with the signal they'll see it there
Last edited by Rouven036; 12-19-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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2006 C55 AMG White/Ash
Yeah, I agree with all of you, and I took my car to a local dealership to at the very least, diagnose the problem, so I can then decide where to get it repaired. Fortunately, a good friend of mine has spent over $250k on cars at this dealership in the last year, so they are really looking out for me with the service manager handling my car personally and only charging half their normal diagnostic fees. So I should know by Monday exactly what is wrong with the car, and how much it will cost to fix.
#25
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2009 Mini Cooper Clubman S
Spoke with the SA today, they will have a definitive answer for me Monday. So now I just wait and see, and be thankful that I don't have to worry about finding a parking spot in the 10 inches of snow we're supposed to get.