Need New Torque Converter. Where to Buy?
How do I order one, and how much should I pay a technician to install it? Trying not to break the banks here...
PJ
Q: Is our Tranny a 722.6? I found a site that sells warrantied rebuilt TCs for under $400 (Europeantransmissions) I'm going to call them in the morning and see if the sell TC's for the C32.
Q: Is our Tranny a 722.6? I found a site that sells warrantied rebuilt TCs for under $400 (Europeantransmissions) I'm going to call them in the morning and see if the sell TC's for the C32.
if i give my car about 3 WOT's, i get no more jerking about 15 mins into driving... you don't even have to accelerate, just push the pedal into the kickdown switch and then let off right away. the rpm's will jump up to ~4k and you can use the shifter to bring them back down again.
The only time you're at 1500rpm is after start up IIRC?
Is the trans cold when this happens?
Note: Even though the motor may be warmed up from just driving. The trans takes longer to get to its ideal operating temp.
STAR diagnostics says... (Not verbatim just memory recall..So i hope I get this right)..... When conducting a shifting test via STAR DAS the trans must be at 60 degrees celceus . Thats 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Your motor will heat up to operating temp much sooner than the trans. If there isnt any slipping of the clutch packs going on it could take a bit, as the friction from slipping will cause heat. Thus heating up the trans faster.
I was driving around doing this test not to long ago.. It took forever for my trans temp to get to that 140f/60c temp. However my car was piping hot. Just noting you cant judge your trans temp on your engine temp
So.. I would get with someone who has STAR DAS. Hook it up Go under "Transmission" and then go to "Performing Adaptations" run though the steps STAR asks for like acceleration 1st to 2nd, 3rd to 4th, then do the deceleration from 5th to 4th and so on... See what info is given, or adjustments can be made based on that test results...
Also think about clearing the adaptations in the transmission
Trending Topics
The torque converter in these cars is crazy stout/heavy i would even say its about half the weight of the transmission itself. For such a robust piece. I would maybe thing about looking into the valve body as the problem.
Sometimes a simple fluid change is not enough to free up overly clogged valves/solenoids. Thats when maybe you should flush the trans..
Also a jerk could be from not adding enough fluid during the last change. Without draining the torque converter its kind of a guessing game as to how much fluid you need to put back in... 75 bucks you can get the dipstick from the dealer.
Side Bar: I almost always use some of the old fluid when i do a trans oil change. I hear so many stories about people flushing their transmission only to have it poop the bed a month later. I don't want to be one of those guys. Strangely enough i just rebuilt my trans. For other reason though.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
forgive the CEL, freaking worthless secondary air pump...
video 1: demonstrates the problem, at constant throttle, no problem. i let off the throttle, you see the rpm's drop, then i get back on the throttle and it jerks back down to 1700rpm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOVcqo1ZeJc
video 2: after some WOT passes, the converter stays locked on decel, as it should. this is absurd that i have to smash the gas pedal to avoid this crap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LZnzouXa5g
Which is good for cars with drag slicks/lsd or AWD cars.
Now, for regular street cars like mine thats modded and have a hard time launching it in 1st anyways, I can only imagine that a HSTC would only amplify the problem.
For instance, when I launch my car in 1st gear, I can only give it maybe 20% power initially and then give it about 60% gas near the end of first (with ESP off) and then finally can go WOT after engaging second gear.
If i torque-brake to load the transmission up I spin out even more in 1st. It seems like if I just increase the stall speed on my car it would just amplify the problem.
Wouldn't it be more cost effective to put on a pair of drag slicks to hook up and reduce the ET of a drag run?
OR
Do HSTC also affect how much power the tranny is putting to the ground in addition to raising the stall speed because it is a superior torque converter to the OEM piece?
I think I would have to get an LSD over a HSTC because my 1st gear is essentially useless now after my mods
Last edited by RLx02; Feb 24, 2010 at 04:38 AM.
Q: Is our Tranny a 722.6? I found a site that sells warrantied rebuilt TCs for under $400 (Europeantransmissions) I'm going to call them in the morning and see if the sell TC's for the C32.



