GT4AWD - C32 AMG
#26
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Sorry I'll get photographs when possible. I was researching more and the leaking sections are the front oil subpan (1120100628) along with where the oil pan itself joins to the engine. So I guess I'm looking at removing the entire oil pan, removing the old gasket material, and replacing with new gasket material. While searching I've found there are no pre-made gaskets for these sections. So it has nothing to do with the engine being dismattled at some point. Jumped on that one. Reinzosil liquid sealant is the recommend sealant material. Anyone else have this problem at some point? Seems all my gaskets are going...
#28
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I want to know who built my C32, and what number it was off the line. I assumed some ghetto shop did the work by how bad this gasket material looks on the engine. They didn't even take the excess material off. Just left it there... Selling has been on the back of my mind for some time now, but I just keep telling myself once everything is fixed I'll be able to enjoy driving it again. However, everytime I fix something, something else breaks. It's been a huge money pit so far, and not enjoyable to say the least. Not so sure about this new 185MM pulley either. I get a constant vibration until it's been driven for a while. Can't narrow it down to the 185MM, but it wasn't present until I went to the aftermarket setup.
#29
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Was able to get some photographs. From what I can tell it is the oil sub-pan leaking, but I'm not 100% sure. It appears the gasket material is seeping out, and allowing the pan to leak. Where else could the oil come from on the front side of the engine? I noticed several sections of the engine above the oil pan also have oil on it.
It's not the cam hall sensor, or the intake valve covers. I would say oil pan right away, but you will notice in one of the photographs a bolt for the A/C compressor has a drip of oil on it. That bolt is above the oil pan... When I first noticed oil leaking is when I parked the c32 in my garage to work on it. Oil was dripping off that compressor bolt after an extended period of being parked. About a drop a day. The main leakage starts after driving, and reaching operating temperatures.
It's not the cam hall sensor, or the intake valve covers. I would say oil pan right away, but you will notice in one of the photographs a bolt for the A/C compressor has a drip of oil on it. That bolt is above the oil pan... When I first noticed oil leaking is when I parked the c32 in my garage to work on it. Oil was dripping off that compressor bolt after an extended period of being parked. About a drop a day. The main leakage starts after driving, and reaching operating temperatures.
#30
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Took the C32 to Mercedes, and they diagnosed the leak as crankshaft seal/timing cover. Motor/tranny mounts are shot, front bushings, transmission park/pan leaking. Going to have it all fixed along with transmission oil change. Glycol test was negative once again. I think I'm missing something else, but total is going to run me around $2500... Don't have the extra time to fix these issues myself. Just want her back running good! I figure the extra money is worth having it done at dealership, so it gets done right, but I'm sure could have saved money doing it all somewhere else.
#31
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On second thought... I will only have them do the crankshaft seal/timing cover for now, and top off transmission fluid. Should run me around $600 dollars including diagnostics. I'm going to purchase the transmission mount, and motor mounts online. That alone will save me $200 dollars. Do you think the mounts should be done by the dealer? It was nearly $400 in labor.
Will do the transmission oil/filter change myself. Save $300 labor there, and find out what this transmission park paw? is. Resealing that myself if possible will save another $300. What about the bushings? I assume that isn't too hard, and any suspension shop can get the job done correctly? Dealer quote $400 for front main bushings. Just labor on that, because I already have the bushings...
Will do the transmission oil/filter change myself. Save $300 labor there, and find out what this transmission park paw? is. Resealing that myself if possible will save another $300. What about the bushings? I assume that isn't too hard, and any suspension shop can get the job done correctly? Dealer quote $400 for front main bushings. Just labor on that, because I already have the bushings...
#32
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Something Slow
Was able to get some photographs. From what I can tell it is the oil sub-pan leaking, but I'm not 100% sure. It appears the gasket material is seeping out, and allowing the pan to leak. Where else could the oil come from on the front side of the engine? I noticed several sections of the engine above the oil pan also have oil on it.
It's not the cam hall sensor, or the intake valve covers. I would say oil pan right away, but you will notice in one of the photographs a bolt for the A/C compressor has a drip of oil on it. That bolt is above the oil pan... When I first noticed oil leaking is when I parked the c32 in my garage to work on it. Oil was dripping off that compressor bolt after an extended period of being parked. About a drop a day. The main leakage starts after driving, and reaching operating temperatures.
It's not the cam hall sensor, or the intake valve covers. I would say oil pan right away, but you will notice in one of the photographs a bolt for the A/C compressor has a drip of oil on it. That bolt is above the oil pan... When I first noticed oil leaking is when I parked the c32 in my garage to work on it. Oil was dripping off that compressor bolt after an extended period of being parked. About a drop a day. The main leakage starts after driving, and reaching operating temperatures.
#33
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Repaired, yes. Not the pan. Front crankshaft seal and timing cap seal. Did not use the REINZOSIL. If you're seeing oil up front it's more than likely the front crank seal.
#34
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Something Slow
oh okay... i looked at mines and it really seems to be coming from the Lower oil pan.. does anyone know if this is a DIY job? a mechanic told me it would cost about $1000+ becuase they have to remove the steering rack, the subframe etc.. to get to it.. :-(
#37
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In general removal of the crank it's recommended to replace the seal or as PM at higher mileage. I have all the intake modifications removed. Stock airboxes with K&N. The gauge cluster is still the same. I never connected the A/F, and the light burnt out on the boost LOL...
#38
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Something Slow
ok its my front seal and not the oil pan had my tech check it out.. does anyone have the part number for this front seal?
edit: is it : 0239978447
edit: is it : 0239978447
Last edited by WaveyKat; 07-22-2011 at 12:02 AM.
#39
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Got some rain yesterday, and L Foglight malfunction. The housing is broken right behind the lens. Water leaked in and blew the bulb. Not even going to bother with that for now... Front rotors, and pads are shot. Bought some cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads on ebay. Still waiting should have been here on the 20th. The S/C pulley bearing is really bad now. Need to swap it out with the new bearing I've had for a year... Ran out of gas a few days ago. Gauge showed 1/4th tank left. The back cover on driver seat fell off, LOL...
#41
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white and whiter
only the Renntech one does which increases the volume of air going through the box.
you can trim off the slats inside the 55 airbox to make it smoother which helps a little bit and will increase the sound of the intake a bit since those slats are used as intake silencers.
you can trim off the slats inside the 55 airbox to make it smoother which helps a little bit and will increase the sound of the intake a bit since those slats are used as intake silencers.
#42
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e36 318i, 2004 sti
only the Renntech one does which increases the volume of air going through the box.
you can trim off the slats inside the 55 airbox to make it smoother which helps a little bit and will increase the sound of the intake a bit since those slats are used as intake silencers.
you can trim off the slats inside the 55 airbox to make it smoother which helps a little bit and will increase the sound of the intake a bit since those slats are used as intake silencers.
#44
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e36 318i, 2004 sti
Yeah, I see most people upgrade to either a different airbox or this. I think this custom one makes more power but could use some better looks.... I think im going to do this and than re do my exhaust to a 3 inch.