2003 C32 - PLEASE HELP - Car crawls and sticks in 2nd Gear
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 11
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C32 AMG
Sorry for my poor reply this morning, I am on my phone perusing ALL of these GREAT responses
which I appreciate more than I can articulate. Thanks to ALL of you all who have helped so far
and I hope even more good responses come in. BTW, WOW.... That was one REALLY long oririnal post
wasn't it?? (LoL@Me).
So my BIG question right now is this..... WHAT do you think my next move is specifically, knowing
that they are hanging out with my car waiting on me to pick it up (because picking up and accepting what
they are telling me, that my car is not Broken - BIG LoL @ that) will remove ANY chance of the actual NEEDED repairs
being covered under warranty (which ran out during the two week service period). I think ask for the Glycol test seems likely
but what else?? ANY realistic suggestions are extremely appreciated !!
Would calling 1-800-Mercedes (or w/e that # is, lol) help at all, with everything considered ??
Lastly, I began this request for help knowing FULL well that a couple of those involved w/ the service
department happen to use and troll this awesome forum - and that it is very likely that they
have recognized this situation as one involving them (especially w/ ALL of the details I provided).
So, Feel free to respond via PM IF you think that would be a better idea with that in mind - meaning suggesting
my next best move......... Thanks to EVERYONE again who has posted so far and I hope even more
will chime in as they see my request for help !! Thanks !!
which I appreciate more than I can articulate. Thanks to ALL of you all who have helped so far
and I hope even more good responses come in. BTW, WOW.... That was one REALLY long oririnal post
wasn't it?? (LoL@Me).
So my BIG question right now is this..... WHAT do you think my next move is specifically, knowing
that they are hanging out with my car waiting on me to pick it up (because picking up and accepting what
they are telling me, that my car is not Broken - BIG LoL @ that) will remove ANY chance of the actual NEEDED repairs
being covered under warranty (which ran out during the two week service period). I think ask for the Glycol test seems likely
but what else?? ANY realistic suggestions are extremely appreciated !!
Would calling 1-800-Mercedes (or w/e that # is, lol) help at all, with everything considered ??
Lastly, I began this request for help knowing FULL well that a couple of those involved w/ the service
department happen to use and troll this awesome forum - and that it is very likely that they
have recognized this situation as one involving them (especially w/ ALL of the details I provided).
So, Feel free to respond via PM IF you think that would be a better idea with that in mind - meaning suggesting
my next best move......... Thanks to EVERYONE again who has posted so far and I hope even more
will chime in as they see my request for help !! Thanks !!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 10
From: Southern Cali (Ontario)
also check all your spark plug wires and Throttle Body wire connection. its a black connection by the Y pipe on your intake.
Make sure all your plug wires are tight and not loose and Throttle body connection is clean. Unplug and blow some compressed air.
Most of my major issues with car shutting down on power was due to wires and TB connector and the pump.
Super Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 825
Likes: 3
2002 c32
Originally Posted by somoneelse
just start with all the cheap stuff first.
1. Disconnect seat control modules
2. recharge battery
3. replace cps sensor
4. replace intercooler pump.
1. Disconnect seat control modules
2. recharge battery
3. replace cps sensor
4. replace intercooler pump.
same here... do all the above.
also check all your spark plug wires and Throttle Body wire connection. its a black connection by the Y pipe on your intake.
Make sure all your plug wires are tight and not loose and Throttle body connection is clean. Unplug and blow some compressed air.
Most of my major issues with car shutting down on power was due to wires and TB connector and the pump.
also check all your spark plug wires and Throttle Body wire connection. its a black connection by the Y pipe on your intake.
Make sure all your plug wires are tight and not loose and Throttle body connection is clean. Unplug and blow some compressed air.
Most of my major issues with car shutting down on power was due to wires and TB connector and the pump.
leaking of fluid around lines/plugs to transmission
intercooler pump
alternator
filter boxes (damn I dunno man, at this point start looking at sacrificing a chicken, so checking the filter boxes doesn't seem like a bad half-step towards that
)also, do what I did - get some other guy - it might cost you something, but just take it to someone blind and see what they say - here's my story
my car's battery just completely died and I jumped the car and drove it to charge the battery, just the way I did in my 1983 Caprice Classic 9000 times per winter as kid, but now I'm also recalling that most springs I was replacing the alternator and I always thought "that chev 350 (dad's special order) is bullet-proof but it chews alternators"
in any case, at some point it got some under-charge-volt-electricity-badness-code-XXXX-hertz-watt-spark and went into limp home, which I'm pretty sure is 'stuck in second gear, even from a stand still'
but there is a similar feeling problem when the i/c pump shuts down - you won't be stuck in second gear though
in any case my car was stuck at home - I know some guys in the local MB club, one of them knew a guy who was a good independent mechanic - dude came out with this box, ran some tests, checked some logs, basically played back the internals of my machine leading up to 'limp home'
you won't be out more than a couple hundred bucks to have someone independent look at it - worst case, you have someone to corroborate your dealer and that will help you make better decisions, one way or another - but get someone good, local and independent, check with your local MB club. If you're in Mpls, check with me
Last edited by Bif powell; May 11, 2010 at 01:06 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
From: FT POLK LOUISIANA
1992 Toyota Corolla, 1994 Chevy C1500, 2002 C32, 2012 Prius, 2013 Toyota Sienna
Yup happened to me once too. I had to clean and then zip tie the throttle body connector to the throttle body. Problem solved for me!!!
same here... do all the above.
also check all your spark plug wires and Throttle Body wire connection. its a black connection by the Y pipe on your intake.
Make sure all your plug wires are tight and not loose and Throttle body connection is clean. Unplug and blow some compressed air.
Most of my major issues with car shutting down on power was due to wires and TB connector and the pump.
also check all your spark plug wires and Throttle Body wire connection. its a black connection by the Y pipe on your intake.
Make sure all your plug wires are tight and not loose and Throttle body connection is clean. Unplug and blow some compressed air.
Most of my major issues with car shutting down on power was due to wires and TB connector and the pump.
Super Member
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
From: SoCal - SaMo & West SFV
2011 C63, 2004 S500, 2013 E350, 2013 Ody Elite
I also had my radiator flash twice before dealer replaced a new one. A new tranny was also replaced with new radiator put in. New drive shaft plus engine mount were also replaced. All these were done 3 yrs ago and within 3 months before my 4yr standard MB warranty expired...in order to fix a vibration problem happen between 50-65mph. Of course, dealer didn't fix it and I had lived with it for almost 3 yrs until recent purchase of a baby hualer R-class (my wife just too in love with MB but not me, of course).
MB USA called for my purchase satisfaction and I basically torch the lady with my complaints.
Long story short, MB USA representative was very nice to ask me to bring my car to my local dealer (diff. from the above dealer who fixed all those "UNRELATED TO ISSUE" parts). After 3 long visits and countless miles of test drove with shop forman and service manager, both keep telling me is my tyres, not well rounded, not factory spec, not balance, etc...until one HOT day, my right front shock starting to leak. I emailed MBUSA and told the lady, I think I know the problem is my shocks. I went in and dealer replaced both front shocks and the problem solved...NO CHARGE, with 80k miles and 3.5 yrs after warranty expired. I only thanked the MB USA lady as she keeps pushing the dealer to figure out the problem...and try to win back my loyalty to MB brand...as my family currently owns total 5 MB now.
With that said...I still thinking of Porsche as my replacement.
MB USA called for my purchase satisfaction and I basically torch the lady with my complaints.
Long story short, MB USA representative was very nice to ask me to bring my car to my local dealer (diff. from the above dealer who fixed all those "UNRELATED TO ISSUE" parts). After 3 long visits and countless miles of test drove with shop forman and service manager, both keep telling me is my tyres, not well rounded, not factory spec, not balance, etc...until one HOT day, my right front shock starting to leak. I emailed MBUSA and told the lady, I think I know the problem is my shocks. I went in and dealer replaced both front shocks and the problem solved...NO CHARGE, with 80k miles and 3.5 yrs after warranty expired. I only thanked the MB USA lady as she keeps pushing the dealer to figure out the problem...and try to win back my loyalty to MB brand...as my family currently owns total 5 MB now.
With that said...I still thinking of Porsche as my replacement.
Last edited by DL_AMG; May 16, 2010 at 09:37 PM.
