115jcso

2003 C32 AMG - PLEASE HELP me with Service Problems @ the dealership on my 2003 C32 AMG -

Hello, I am a "New" member here and this is my first post / Request for help (Begging really, lol).
However this is not my first time to this awesome website as I have referred to it many times in the past. Thank you all in advance for the information that I have gleaned from your posts in the past as well as any help you can provide in regards to the instant matter.

Okay, Hereeeeee we go..... I am in desperate need of some serious help and I am praying that someone here can assist me by providing me with solid information that I (as a "layperson"), can take to the dealership before they literally tow my car back to my house because I refuse to pick it up.
At the bottom of this post I provided all of the relevant history that I can recall which landed me in this tough situation today JUST in case someone trying to help me needs the (historical) information. I put it at the end so that you will not have to read all of that just to be able to look at my C32 problem and try to help me.

Thank you again in advance for any and all help !!

Alot of history here, BUT, my 2003 C32 was in for its last service before the extended warranty ran out (due to time, not miles - I have 58,000 miles). They gave it back, the warranty expired while it was in the shop (for two weeks), and they called it "FIXED"..... but it was NOT. The serious problems were NOT FIXED and are listed directly below.

The "relevant" issues that I related to them are that I was having issues with:

* Shifting (sticking in 2nd under hard acceleration) and major loss of power at certain times (basically when it was sticking in 2nd - Felt like it was
down to only one cylinder). ** It seems that the ESP has been turned off EACH time this has happened. I cannot say for sure, but I know it to be true since I got ready to turn it in for service up until now. **
* Under light acceleration, around 1500-2000 rpm there is a "jerking" type of feeling (possibly called "Harsh Engagement", possibly) which will literally push your head back on the headrest because it is out of nowhere and it surprises you; This was happening often and my Wife thought that I was doing it on purpose to mess with her the first couple of times it happened. Needless to say, that was NOT what was happening.
* I also got error messages on the dash, including: the "SRS" warning light in RED and the "ESP" warning light in yellow.
* I even saw my speedometer and tachometer go from zero to pegged at the same time as each other and then go right back down to zero ONE time.

Now THAT was a trip !!
* (THIS ONE is No longer happening and MAY have been fixed but I wanted to mention it in case it is related to the other issues above - One night the car just cut off after driving it for maybe 7 or 8 minutes. It would NOT restart for a good 45 or 50 minutes. It did this each and everytime from that point on. When trying to restart it, it would turn over and over and over and it was strong, but it would never start. It seemed as though the car was basically getting warmed up and then would shut off - The check engine light would come on and if I am not mistaken, the SRS light came on as well sometimes. And then, the waiting began before it would restart. It would take so long that it seemed that the car had to literally completely cool off or something before it would restart for another 7 or 8 minutes. I think it was the "ECM" that was changed during repair that they said was causing that... but I do not know for sure...... Just fyi.)

I left it parked for almost seven months before I ultimately got it to the service department before my extended warranty ran out. (There were other unrelated problems; Most were ultimately resolved - BUT the above ones WERE NOT).

IMPORTANT TO NOTE:
** To save a little money I did a proper oil change of my vehicle before I gave it to the service department AND ** the BATTERY had died just before I gave it to the service department **.
** I had been told that the service tech could not replicate some of the problems but they were vague on that topic as they moved to the next topic. **

They told me that I had a bad battery and that it was giving out all kinds of crazy codes when they first got it and that they needed to put a new one in to be able to work on it. I told them that the codes may not be so crazy when you consider what the car had been doing. Anyways, they replaced the battery and did whatever it is they did. THEY pretty much said that the above listed problems were probably a result of the "bad battery" and that is why the tech could not replicate them. HERE is the catch on THAT EXCUSE though. The battery had been fine up until I parked it and even through the first six or so months OF BEING PARKED because I would go out, start it.... let it run for a few minutes and then cut it off. The battery died just before I turned it in for service after roughly seven months (and likely due to it being parked for the extended period of time). So they battery was GOOD when the car presented the noted problems. And as well, it still has the same problems !! So AGAIN.. It seems that the battery excuse has run out of steam. And how the tech cannot replicate the problems is BEYOND ANYTHING I could even imagine. I mean....... That is not even close to reasonable as the problems were so obvious.

Anyways, I get it back two weeks later. I could be no more EXCITED !!

So my first drive of my shiny, FIXED, 2003 C32 AMG is in COOL weather (in the 60's roughly) and it is at sunset. There is NO humidity. I was maybe 14 miles into my "Sunday" like drive (Pampered it as I was talking too much about having my car back to drive it aggressively) and I get to my destination with no problem. I stay there almost 45 minutes. I back out of their residence, and drive down to the stop sign which is in sight of that residence. As I slow down for the stop sign I shift down and BRAKE WITH THE ENGINE A LITTLE BIT and I then ease to a stop. I put it back in full D-Drive. I take a slow right and have open, flat, country road in front of me and I am rolling at about 15 mph or so. ** I TURN ESP OFF**. Fully automatic mode.

** I gave it Full Throttle through 1st gear, into 2nd nicely but then it just STUCK in 2nd gear and the power goes to almost nothing - to a crawl even though I hold the accelerator down. JUST LIKE IT WAS DOING WHEN PRESENTED FOR SERVICE UNDER WARRANTY. I drive it home and I try to replicate the issue a few times on the way. Sometimes it does it, and sometimes it does just fine shifting into 3rd gear at full throttle like there is no problem. UGGGGHHH.
I call the dealership the following morning and they send out another tow truck to take it back so I didnt run more miles up on it. They take a look, call me the next day and tell me that they are showing only one "Error Code" and they said that the only code showing was one that indicated that the AIR COMING INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD IS TOO HOT. (That is how it was explained to me - I am ASSUMING that the code is "P2027 Intake air temperature too high/Check coolant pump & additional radiator...", but I do NOT know for sure).

They say the service tech cannot get the car to do it (again and a BIG OLE LOL to that one - WOW) and I tell them that I can come there and show them how it will do it within 4 miles.... guaranteed. They talk around that idea and ask me to talk with the service tech by phone and describe what is happening. The service tech tried to tell me that the car was learning my driving habits and that the car probably "thought I was going into a curve", lol. To save time right here in the forum- I destroyed that theory. I described the circumstances under which it failed the first time on me AGAIN (like I described above). While on the phone, ULTIMATELY the service tech says that sometimes the "pump" (intercooler pump I am ASSUMING) can cause that error code and asked if I wanted them to replace that. I told him that I wanted them to do whatever they needed to do to fix my car because it WAS under warranty when I presented it with these SAME SYMPTOMS and they did not adequately address them then. They ALLEGEDLY replaced the pump on the car and called me and told me its fixed (again). **Important note - They covered the cost of the pump without any questons - Even told me that they had nothing "substantial" that they could present to the warranty company ("CNA") so they would have to "eat the cost" on the pump (A pump that you will later see that I clearly did not need anyways).
** They had earlier asked if I would drive the shop foreman in the car whenever they were done with it to make sure that it is actually fixed. I held them to that OFFER. I go there and they pull my car around and the SHOP FOREMAN gets in the drivers seat and drives my wife and I on what I can best describe as a "Sunday Drive" for about four or five miles in almost five oclock traffic in a major city. It is not stop and go traffic, but there was no room for full acceleration (without some creative driving and thinking that is) and even when there was a moment where he could try to duplicate the issue, HE DOESN'T. I remember thinking two things as he drove like that. My 1st thought was that I WAS SUPPOSED TO BE DRIVING TO SHOW HIM, NOT HIM DRIVING ME AROUND, LOL. My 2nd thought was that THIS IS EXACTLY HOW I WOULD DRIVE MY CAR IF I WAS TRYING TO SHOW IT TO SOMEONE WHO WANTED TO BUY IT AND I FEARED THAT A
WHEEL WAS GOING TO FALL OFF OR SOMETHING. I mean, he LITERALLY babied it and he NEVER gave it even close to full throttle - NOT EVEN ONCE.
So, we are riding and he is talking (the WHOLE time) and I am trying to tell the shop foreman how the car will fail and stick in second gear but he just ignored every word I said about it. Literally. Well, as we neared the dealership, I asked him if he had the time to let me drive as I could show him how the vehicle is messing up very quickly. He didnt answer, acted as though he didn't even hear me in fact and he then pulled into and around toward the back of the car lot as if he was getting out and was done. And at that time, he finally responded to my request by mumbling something like "ok then, lets switch". I drove the same path he drove, and I tried between five and seven times to get it to do what it does. Most of those attempts where blocked by cars in front of us which means I could not stay "on it" through second gear, it was frustrating because all I could do was just motor around at like 44 mph with no room to do ANYTHING. BUT, during the drive I WAS ABLE to find JUST ENOUGH room to get on it (all the way through 2nd gear that is) in three places. The FIRST TWO times I started from a slow roll and accelerated through second gear into third with no issues and then I would brake quickly due to lack of room for a proper test.
** BUT, JUST BEFORE my third (and last) opportunity to test it was coming up in front of me, I had JUST ASKED HIM if he was confident that the car was fixed and if he was comfortable that the right repairs had been done. He literally had JUST GOT THE WORDS OUT OF HIS MOUTH, "I am completely confident that the car is fixed" when it happened. AS HE WAS LITERALLY SAYING THOSE WORDS, I remembered that the ESP was OFF when it had this problem in the past and I reached up and TURNED THE ESP OFF and I spoke over him saying "I forgot that the ESP was off when it failed". He finished his sentence as I rounded the small curve which led to the entrance ramp to a one mile stretch of interstate. Exact same circumstances as I described earlier, rolling start in 1st gear, hard acceleration, it goes into second gear just fine and I stay on it and halfway through second gear.... WOW.... There it goes.... it has stuck in 2nd gear AGAIN and I literally have it floored at 4500 rpms on the interstate and the car doesn't even gain 1000 rpm in like 22 seconds of full throttle in 2nd gear...... I held it to the floor saying you see, you see..... thats it, thats what it is doing. I told him "I got it floored !!" (and we were NOT gaining speed and we WERE stuck in 2nd gear)..... IT DID IT.... WITH THE SHOP FOREMAN IN MY CAR. I JUST KNEW THAT NOW... FINALLY NOW..... MY CAR WILL BE FIXED. The moment it happened though, he completely stopped talking, literally. Literally. Nothing to say. He was mad and it was readily apparent. The WHOLE drive this guy had talked the entire time not even allowing me to get a word in at all, to a point where I felt like I was being kept from being able to discuss the car issue. HECK, I can tell you when and where he graduated high school, how long he has worked at that dealership, his opinion on different types of motor vehicles, and SO MUCH MORE. I say ALL of that LITERALLY.
** AGAIN, this happened just over one mile from the dealership and all the SHOP FOREMAN would EVENTUALLY say is "we should have a good hard-code in there now"; He said that rudely and that was ONLY after I continued to try to talk to him and get some type of verbal response. I literally asked him if he wanted me to try to find another spot to see if it will do it again and THAT IS WHEN HE FINALLY RESPONDED with the above rudely said response about the code.
So, we pulled up to the dealership and we did not know what to do because he wouldn't say a freaking word. He just told me to stop when we got in front of the sales area. When I did, he gets out and walks around to the drivers side just looking at me. So I HAD to ask him, what should we do now? And that is when he got his next rude words in....... He grabs his nextel off his hip looking at the clock on it and says, "Well lets see.... its 4:58 and my techs are going home so I don't think we will be working on it today so yall can go home - (Insert my service reps name here) will call you when we know something". Heck - it had JUST failed and the car had not been cut off yet so silly me figured that maybe, just maybe, the SHOP FOREMAN might would plug it in and see what code it gave right then. But nope... he just used it as a way to kill a little time to come up with some silly excuses for everything. Those excuses are in my next paragraph and are the end of the "up to date" part of this story and it is also where I ask for ANY and ALL help that ANYBODY can provide.
Okay, well.... the SERVICE MANAGER called me the next day and said "Good news, your car isn't broken. Your car is doing exactly what your car is supposed to do". They explained further trying to convince me that the reason that the car is doing what THE SHOP FOREMAN SAW WITH HIS OWN TWO EYES is because I am driving it too hard and therefore making it too hot. They said that my car was only showing that ONE CODE as it did before and that code indicated that the AIR COMING INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD IS TOO HOT. (That is how it was explained to me - I am ASSUMING that the code is "P2027 Intake air temperature too high/Check coolant pump & additional radiator...", but I do NOT know for sure). They told me that is what the car is designed to do when the air gets too hot from hard driving and told me frankly that I drove the car so hard that it kicked in this feature and caused this code. Ok, I was beyond confused and shocked to hear this and I was trying to respond to this rediculous explanation, one that IS LITERALLY IMPOSSIBLE. I was trying to describe what happened so the SERVICE MANAGER would understand that what he was saying or being told, was impossible and not even close to REASONABLE. I was even told that the SHOP FOREMAN said that he was SCARED because I was speeding and that he had told everyone that I was going 100 mph. I TOLD THE SERVICE MANAGER THAT THE CAR STUCK IN 2ND GEAR AND THEREFORE I COULD NOT GO EVEN REMOTELY CLOSE TO 100 MPH. I TOLD HIM THE CAR STUCK IN 2ND GEAR ON THE ENTRANCE RAMP TO THE INTERSTATE and so there is NO WAY for me to SPEED or go 100 mph !! HE told me that the SHOP FOREMAN stopped talking because he got scared and I TOLD HIM THE TRUTH AND THAT IS THAT THE ONLY THING THAT SHUT HIM UP WAS THE FACT THAT THE CAR FAILED JUST AFTER HE FINISHED TELLING ME HOW SURE HE WAS THAT IT WAS FIXED - NOT BECAUSE I WAS SPEEDING, BECAUSE AGAIN, HE SHUT UP WHEN IT FAILED BY GETTING STUCK IN SECOND GEAR.... I WAS GETTING PASSED ON THE INTERSTATE BECAUSE 2ND GEAR WAS MY TOP GEAR. And I told him I was in 5 o'clock traffic and there ere only a few spots where I could try to fully accelerate for JUST 1ST AND 2ND GEAR. No matter what I said, I got the same response. He said the "AREA REP" OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT happened to be in the area and that they consulted with him before calling me and that he agrees with them. I told the SERVICE MANAGER that if the car is failing due to the air coming into the intake being too hot that it CERTAINLY IS NOT DUE TO MY DRIVING IT TOO HARD, AND THAT THEY SHOULD BE LOOKING INTO WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THAT CODE OR THE SYMPTOMS. The SERVICE MANAGER told me that the car is telling them that the air is too hot and there are NO OTHER CODES so that can be the only cause. I pleaded with him to think outside of the box and use some reason and he WAS VERY NICE, BUT AS WELL HE WAS steadfast in his stance that my C32 is apparently now a one or two stop light car. And that is what I told him.... that it is usueless "as is" if it shuts down (per se) after every 5th or 6th full acceleration THROUGH 1st and 2nd gear. IF THAT WAS DRIVING TOO HARD... LOL.... That claim is so rediculous that it really does not warrant a response. A 5 or so mile lap around the dealership in 5 o'clock traffic, especially driving it like I was which was WEAK BECAUSE OF NO SPACE TO "GET ON IT" THROUGH 1ST AND 2ND GEARS could not reasonably result in a heat build up of that level. The whole thing is ridiculous.
** Well, this is where I really hope that you all can help me with likely causes, solutions, advice, etc. They are trying to give me the car back but I do not want to pick it back up as is because the ONLY chance of it getting fixed under the warranty like IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN in the 1st place will disappear. I know how long this post is but all I can say is thank you for your time and hopefully for any of your advice because I REALLY AM getting hosed by the dealership in this matter. I have NO DOUBT in my mind that there is some serious repair needed for this car for them to go through all of this trouble to try to explain away the impossible. In fact, I am suspecting that the transmission or something of that $$ level is needing to be replaced, JUST AS BEFORE WITH MY CAR DUE TO GLYCOL getting into my transmission fluid (If interested, that information is below in the history section). Please, anyone, any advice as to remedies of any type is so GREATLY appreciated.

-------------------------------------------

History:
This is what got me to where I am. If anyone needs ANY technical or other type of information as far as what happened in the past leading up to this point, please just ask.
In short, sometime around late 2004 or early 2005 I took my car in for a normal service (12k miles or so maybe - I'm not sure). No major complaints when I took it in but during that service I was eventually told that they needed to replace my transmission (atleast, and I think some other related items??) because they found that radiator fluid had got into my transmission via a cracked line of some sort INSIDE the RADIATOR. I was easily under warranty and went without my car for a week or two. Well, I got it back and I do not recall having any signifigant problems at that time.
** BUT I SHOULD give credit where it is due. I have seen TOO MANY stories of people NEVER getting ANY good service. And even though on that occasion I felt like I had been robbed because my "Personal Dream Car"....... My mint condition, low milage, C32 AMG now had a replaced tranny and whatever else in it, I WAS ultimately THANKFUL. I was thankful because they had found a problem that I did not even complain about and they took care of it rather than try to put it off or explain any future problems away.
Jump forward to early 2009. Okay, there is only one dealership/service location near my residence and that is 42 miles away. The next nearest one is hours away. Well, I took my car in for something small and unrelated to this problem. Well, my car was promised back to me by the end of that day. The service rep. working "with" me slipped out and left for home while the car was not completed as promised AND he knew that I was waiting on my car. Unbeknownst to me, my car was apparently not going to be completed that day; The service department shut down and everyone went home and there I was with no heads up and no car..... lol.
** Well, after that day and over that incident, I had that very same service rep. get very rude, sarcastic, etc after a serious discussion with him over that incident. His obvious anger was mainly because I had spoken with a service manager, or some supervisor about the incident and I thought it was over. Well, multiple phone calls, pages, and even emails from the upset service rep to me followed, and one of the emails was threatening in nature. I didnt want to ever go back there, but again.. it is the only one remotely close to my residence and I was still under warranty (I bought a three year extended warranty from the dealership for roughly $3500 US, at the end of the four year original warranty).
Well, about seven months ago my 2003 C32 AMG starting having issues with shifting (sticking in 2nd under hard acceleration) and major loss of power at certain times (basically when it was sticking in 2nd - Felt like it was down to only one cylinder). In light acceleration, around 1500-2000 rpm there is a "jerking" type of feeling (possibly called "Harsh Engagement", possibly) which will literally push your head back on the headrest because it is out of nowhere and it surprises you; This happens often (The wife literally got mad at me the first couple of times it happened as she thought I was messing around with her and pushing the accelerator to make it happen,lol). I also got error messages on the dash, including: the "SRS" warning light in RED and the "ESP" warning light in yellow. I even saw my speedometer and tachometer go from zero to pegged at the same time as each other and then go right back down. Now THAT was a trip.
** THEN, the final straw for my C32 came when one night the car just cut off after driving it for maybe 7 or 8 minutes. It would NOT restart for a good 45 or 50 minutes. It did this each and everytime from that point on. When trying to restart it, it would turn over and over and over and it was strong, but it would never start. It seemed as though the car was basically getting warmed up and then would shut off - The check engine light would come on and if I am not mistaken, the SRS light came on as well sometimes. And then, the waiting began before it would restart. It would take so long that it seemed that the car had to literally completely cool off or something before it would restart for another 7 or 8 minutes. I think it was the ECM that was changed during repair that they said was causing that... but I do not know for sure.
Anyways, I parked it until I figured out where to get it serviced at and ultimately I just let it sit parked for roughly seven months because it was painful to even imagine trusting my car to a place where that service rep. still works, as they are all tight there and there is just no telling what someone could do to your car that you would not notice until miles, days, weeks or even months later. And with my warranty running out in late March of 2010, I could NOT afford to take that chance. I worked for a short period of time at a large dealership when I was young and I DO remember how the service reps and service techs work together and how customers cars who are considered a pain in the A**, are treated, worked on, driven, abused, and worse.
Well, in December of 2009, I went back to the same dealership just looking around and was NOT going to buy anything that day, not from them. We would have likely gone to another dealership AFTER figuring out exactly what we want. BUT I met a sales manager (or some similar position in sales) who listened to me about my prior problems with the service department and he seemed very genuine when speaking on that topic. He told me that what happened to me in their service department was absolutely unacceptable and said that he would personally ensure the proper service of my C32 AMG and that he would handle everything. He said that he would have it picked up at my house and that he would make sure that it was fixed properly and under warranty (when the warranty applied of course) and that he would would follow it every step of the way, even having it delivered back to my home if I wanted. Now he even said this..... "I WILL MAKE THIS RIGHT NO MATTER WHAT AND THIS HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH WHETHER YOU BUY ANOTHER CAR FROM US OR NOT, PERIOD". He literally gave me a direct line number to his desk, and his personal cell phone number (which he said he NEVER gives out). I literally grabbed my cell and tested his cell number right then and there, lol. He was serious. And I have to say that I think that he has done the best he can in the situation that his service department put him in.
** Well, I believed him, he restored my faith in this particular dealership and ultimately I bought my wife a new GLK350. I did it on a Saturday (service not open). I bought it from there SOLELY due to that guy's time and effort and sincerity. I had been convinced that this service nightmare was over and that all would be good from that point on. He told me to just call him when I was ready for my car to be picked up and I did just that a little before the end of my warranty; IMPORTANT TO NOTE: ** To save a little money I did a proper oil change of my vehicle and ** the BATTERY had died just before I gave it to the service department **. Anyways, I created a laundry list of items which needed attention. Most were covered under warranty, some were understsandibly not (Rotors, pads, battery, alignment, etc).
THE MAIN PROBLEMS FOLLOW: They called me and told me (that after two weeks) it was all ready. ** I had been told that the tech could not replicate some of the noted problems but they were intentionally very, very vague on that topic as they moved to the next topic. ** They told me that I had a bad battery and that it was giving out all kinds of crazy codes when they first got it and that they needed to put a new one in to be able to work on it. I told them that the codes may not be so crazy when you consider what the car had been doing. Anyways, they replaced the battery and did whatever it is they did. I went and got it and drove it straight home.
** So, I am about to drive my C32 AMG again and I am super excited !! I left it parked for two days due to work and then on the third day I drove it for the first real time and within just a few miles of the house, driving in low 60 degree temps at sundown, the vehicle hung in second gear and lost almost all power, JUST like it was doing when I presented it for this last service. The "jerking" feeling I described at low rpms and minimal acceleration as well as the hanging in second gear as well as the electrical problems I described JUST SO HAPPENED to be the ones that "COULD NOT BE REPLICATED" by the service tech. Yeah, right !! The rest is noted above in the help request.

Dingleberry

wall of text

115jcso

I know, I know. But I would really appreciate any help with the problems because what is going on is wrong and my ONLY chance at getting it corrected is to be able to show up with some solid information. Again, ANY help is really appreciated. Its ironic that I saw your response 1st as I was just cruising the site and I had been reading one of the threads which you were involved in. I KNOW you know your C32's........ I wish I could hire you to argue it for me, lol. I would appreciate ANY help. Thanks =]

115jcso

Here are the important parts of my post if you would maybe consider checking this out??

The "relevant" issues that I related to them are that I was having issues with:

* Shifting (sticking in 2nd under hard acceleration) and major loss of power at certain times (basically when it was sticking in 2nd - Felt like it was
down to only one cylinder). ** It seems that the ESP has been turned off EACH time this has happened. I cannot say for sure, but I know it to be true since I got ready to turn it in for service up until now. **
* Under light acceleration, around 1500-2000 rpm there is a "jerking" type of feeling (possibly called "Harsh Engagement", possibly) which will literally push your head back on the headrest because it is out of nowhere and it surprises you; This was happening often and my Wife thought that I was doing it on purpose to mess with her the first couple of times it happened. Needless to say, that was NOT what was happening.
* I also got error messages on the dash, including: the "SRS" warning light in RED and the "ESP" warning light in yellow.
* I even saw my speedometer and tachometer go from zero to pegged at the same time as each other and then go right back down to zero ONE time.

Now THAT was a trip !!
* (THIS ONE is No longer happening and MAY have been fixed but I wanted to mention it in case it is related to the other issues above - One night the car just cut off after driving it for maybe 7 or 8 minutes. It would NOT restart for a good 45 or 50 minutes. It did this each and everytime from that point on. When trying to restart it, it would turn over and over and over and it was strong, but it would never start. It seemed as though the car was basically getting warmed up and then would shut off - The check engine light would come on and if I am not mistaken, the SRS light came on as well sometimes. And then, the waiting began before it would restart. It would take so long that it seemed that the car had to literally completely cool off or something before it would restart for another 7 or 8 minutes. I think it was the "ECM" that was changed during repair that they said was causing that... but I do not know for sure...... Just fyi.)

Dingleberry

I wish I could help you, but I'm not sure what the problem is. Perhaps searching the forums is your best bet.

If it was just the lack of power symptom, I would say that they did not replace your intercooler pump (or it has failed again already). Tossing the other symptoms in, sans jerking, makes it more complicated - perhaps just an ESP issue.

As far as the jerking, good luck getting rid of that - numerous c32's are plagued with this nuisance. Supposedly the transmission control unit (TCU) is what causes this problem (assuming you don't have glycol contamination) If your TCU starts with part number 032, then you are supposed to be in the clear (and the '03 model should have a TCU that starts with 032). I am actually quite curious to see which TCU model you have. If you could, ask your dealer to print out the STAR diag showing the TCU part number (or you could pull the passenger floorboard and look at the TCU number physically)

edit: I see in your wall of text that your car previously had glycol contamination. I would push for them to at least replace the torque converter and possibly the transmission (ESPECIALLY if your TCU part number begins with 032, because it shouldn't be jerking) because they may have been permanently damaged by the glycol contamination (the jerking issue)

115jcso

Thank you for checking it out. I can ask my dealer for that info, no problem. But it has to be when I go to pick it up and that is where my problem is. But, just so you know.... I am not having any error messages showing anymore and I understand that the jerking motion is a common C32 issue. The MAIN thing that is of great concern to me is:

* Shifting (sticking in 2nd under hard acceleration) and major loss of power at certain times (basically when it was sticking in 2nd - Felt like it was
down to only one cylinder). ** It seems that the ESP has been turned off EACH time this has happened. I cannot say for sure, but I know it to be true since I got ready to turn it in for service up until now. **

Thank you again.

115jcso

Dingleberry,
I am sorry that I did not notice where you had done the "edit" of your post earlier because that edit shows that you were able to work through my "wALL oF TeXt" and see what is ACTUALLY going on. THANK YOU for that, really. I want to respond to your "edit" here so I am going to quote it below and then give my quick response as I am still in need of ALL of the help that You or ANYBODY Else can provide. Thank You again.

"edit: I see in your wall of text that your car previously had glycol contamination. I would push for them to at least replace the torque converter and possibly the transmission (ESPECIALLY if your TCU part number begins with 032, because it shouldn't be jerking) because they may have been permanently damaged by the glycol contamination (the jerking issue)"

(Oooops, BEFORE I FORGET..... Since it seems to ONLY FAIL AFTER TURNING OFF THE ESP, could that be relevant? THANKS A BUNCH !!)

Come Monday, I can gather up the info you asked for (from service receipts and HOPEFULLY the Service Manager - MAYBE by email (??) - Suggestions WELCOMED, lol) in regards to what was replaced the "1st time around" with the Glycol contamination and I WILL get ALL of that information to you. I do know that I was told that my transmission was replaced and it seems like they said some other items were too - It has just been a few years now and I am away from my saved service receipts at the moment.

Will you please explain the best possible way for me to get my TCU part number WITHOUT me having to go there in person? Because if I go there, they will be trying to push my car off on me REAL HARD, AS THEY HAVE BEEN TRYING TO DO FOR A WEEK NOW.

Because them giving me the car back "as is" will forever open up the door for them to be able to succesfully argue that (WHENEVER I EVENTUALLY FIGURE OUT) WHATEVER THEY WERE COVERING UP, is not something that the WARRANTY COMPANY ("CNA") OR THEY are actually FINANCIALLY RESPONSIBLE for.

Again, Thank YOU and Thanks to EVERYONE who is WILLING to read the "novel" that I posted above. I did that in an effort to give the most talented individuals who help others on this forum ALL of the information they could possibly need to offer the best advice that they can (after considering the totality of the circumstances). Because I believe that often times it is the "other" information (which is outside of the "normally provided" information) which can show the intent, ulterior motives, et cetera of those involved which often make the REAL ISSUE in regards to the instant matter very, very obvious.

Also....... You guys ROCK !! I LOVE This Forum !!

loudandheard

Here is some thing I found that seems similar to your situation. I think the problems you are experiencing are very common and lots of us have the same problem, including myself. Every one faults the intercooler pump and that the supercharger shuts itself off if it's too hot. I still have the issue and I have a new pump and a larger HE.

Here is the info that I just recently found:

115jcso

Thank you SO Much LoudandHeard !!

I want to make sure that I understand what you are saying though so I can hopefully use the information in my situation (if it applies).

Are you saying that you still have the problem or issue, even after finding this document that you just shared with me - and used the information learned from it ??

OR are you saying that you believe that this very well could be the problem and the solution to the problem that both of our cars are having??

Sorry for the dumb questions, I just want to make sure because this appears to be promising....... Thank You again.

Newzchspy

Actually, very informative text. We have some Hx here to Dx the problem. I am thinking the Rx is IC pump?

115jcso

Thanks for your respnse, Newzchspy. As I mentioned in that terribly long original post (LOL@me), they said that they replaced a pump due to the code that reportedly showed the air going into the air intake manifold was too hot. Now exactly what pump they would replace for that I really don't know but I suspect that you likely do.

Are you saying that you think that they replaced a pump but that it was likely not the "IC pump" and that you suspect that the "IC pump" is the problem?

I apologize for the dumb questions but this is definitely not my area of expertise and I am in real need of all the help I can get in regards to this manner because I really don't know where to go from here and they really want to give me my car back "as is." Thank you again.

Newzchspy

I suspect the IC is the problem. How many miles exactly do you have. Doesnt sound like the famous radiator problem to me. Get a Johnson pump for the C32, Eurocharged has them. Has solved many a problem with the C32 and SRT-6.

115jcso

My mileage is 58,000 and I actually had the famous radiator problem in the past which led to the replacement of my transmission and more (as detailed in my post). Just in case I had not pointed it out, I wanted to let you know that I was also having (under light acceleration USUALLY) around 1500-2000 rpm a "jerking" type of feeling (possibly called "Harsh Engagement") which would literally push your head back on the headrest because it is out of nowhere and it surprises you. I did not know if you had noticed that and/or if it would assist you in your Dx of my cars problem. I am still a little confused about the pump, if there is more than one possible pump involved...as they did replace one of them.... uggghhhh... This is tough stuff and I appreciate all of the help.

As far as my situation, the dealership still having my vehicle and the possibility the repairs being under warranty IF I CAN SHOW them something relatively solid to look at BEFORE THEY PUSH IT OFF ON ME COME MONDAY OR TUESDAY....... Do you have any suggestions? Would love some insight into how someone who has a LOT of information about this car would handle this situation with the dealer if their car was in the very spot that mine is currently in....

Like is there a TSB that is related to this problem or anything... any ideas as how to approach it with them as time is critical and a transmission I cannot even think about being able to afford.... Thank You Again =]

320 dreamer

the "jerk" has been diagnosed as the early tcu issue. fix was to replace the tcu with the later yr version. seems to work
i/c pump replacememnt from the dealer will be with the same pos pump you had to begin with. may last 10 days or 10 yrs. easiest fix is aftermarket pump done at an indy shop if you dont have the skills

loudandheard

This is some thing I stumbled on the other day when I was looking in to some other problems. I have not had this done to my car and I am not sure if this would be the solution to our problems.

If you do a search, there are tons of posts that share the same problems as you. They have had every thing done and nothing will solve the lack of acceleration issue. It comes and it goes.

People have pointed out the throttle position sensor, transmission solenoids, supercharger clutch, faulty computer, faulty fuel pump and relay, faulty intercooler, the list goes on.

Good luck with your search and I hope that you can provide us with a positive update.

115jcso

THANK YOU LoudandHeard for ALL of your time and advice. I will certainly keep my post up-to-date and with the final results in the very near future... one way or another, lol. Thank you again. =]

TemjinX2

Just so you know Gen y'er and young have really short attention spans and stopped reading after your 3rd paragragh. Try to keep it concise with problem and symptoms. First problem car not starting until it's cooled down. Sounds like a bad CPs sensor. It's known to go bad on all w203's. It's a $45 part plus 1hr labor.

The battery issue sounds like bad seat control modules going bad and drain power over night. There known to go bad on all w203's. Solution is just disconnect them or replace them with the new w211 seat control modules or do the diy fix.

The 2nd gear issue is becaus the tranny is putting the car into limp home mode because of low voltage or some thing is wrong with the tranny.

TemjinX2

The high temp error and power citing out sounds like a bad intercooler pump. There known to go bad on all c32's. Solution get a Johnson pump for $160 plus 2-3hrs labor.

Sorry I'm typing all this on my iPhone so I can't be as detailed

c32used

I don't time for reading it all but at the moment you do have good advisers that will hopefully guide you in a good direction before I can look into it...sorry

SPDMETL

Dude, that service manager sounds like a real wiener. Call a lawyer and the state licensing agency. These ****tards need a sting/fine/newspaper humiliation right now ! Good Luck

alkrstev

I am also in a similar situation as you, 115jcso. My transmission was replaced 20000 miles ago at 52000 (under warranty) miles along with the torque converter, radiator, and a NEW TCU because of the glycol contamination (Valeo radiator). My car still has the 1500 rpm jerk, and also feels like the transmission is confused when you push the gas. At times, when pushing the pedal the car would lurch forward, jerk, and give out a droning sound. When I drive at around 40 mph, I hear a droning sound coming from the torque converter every time I reach that speed. It is the worst when I put it on cruise control going 40 mph exactly. Also, when coming to a stop from 30 or 50 mph, the car shakes left and right like the torque converter is engaging then disengaging and just plain being confused and the downshifts are harsh. When driving at low speeds from 10 to 25 mph, the car is very jerky and uncontrollable. My car also shakes a bit when I apply throttle and it is very uncomfortable to drive. Also, when I go full throttle from a stop, 1 out of 4 times the car feels like it is slamming into a wall when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. It would be smooth through first, then harsh and sometimes stalling switching into second. I called the dealership, but since I am out of warranty, they will charge me $130 just to look at the car and tell me what is wrong with it. Now I am not sure if I should just pay for another glycol test to be done to my car because I am afraid of another glycol contamination (yes with the NEW radiator part #203-500-05-03). What I am thinking is maybe it needs to just have its adaptations cleared and check the fluid level of the transmission to see if it is too full or a little empty. They have also replaced the leaking 13 pin connector and the lock pin that is a known problem on the 722.6 transmission which has been known to leak. I am really running out of options and will be taking the car to the dealer to have it hooked up to the STAR. I am very disappointed in how a BRAND NEW transmission can have problems after only 20000 miles. If it is the glycol issue again and Mercedes refuses to cover it even though they put all the parts on my car, I guess I am just going to have to contact someone else that will help me. The way I look at it, I should not pay a dime for something that should have been fixed in the first place. As much as love my C32, it has taken a fortune to just keep it running. Anyways, you better find out which pump they replaced on your car cause if your car looses power, then it is definitely your ic pump (been through that and replaced it with the CM30 Johnson pump for $145 from this website: https://va.eftsecure.net/EFTCart/additem.asp). As for your car getting stuck in 2nd gear, I had mine stuck in 1st gear with many codes and it turned out it was a bad battery. Good luck and keep us informed on what they do to your car.

TemjinX2

if you replaced the transmission, you should check your receipt and see if they changed the radiator as well. The valeo radiators are known to leak and cause glycol contamination. The newer w203's use the behr radiators instead.

If they didn't change it, i would recommend replacing your valeo radiator with a behr.

W203Ramos

had all the symptoms you described....what a novel
the dealer probably replaced the secondary air pump and not the IC pump get the johnson CM30 pump($145 + labor or a 6 pack of beer & DIY).
For the car shutting down it sound like a CPS as temjin said.
for the "harsh engagement" I had my TCU flashed with the "new software program" as per stealership and that seemed to solve the problem. I hope this helps and GL!!!

John

60n5pt1

+1

secondary air pump was a TSB

Vomit

To O.P.:

It sounds like you have multiple problems. I will only address the wildly-swinging tach/speedo needle, as other posters have covered most of the other stuff. I would be willing to bet that your multifunction display is the culprit. If the car senses that there is a problem with the MFD, it does this (to let you know that the display is FUBAR, so you don't rely on it I suppose), and forces you into "limp home" mode, which basically means that you are stuck in first gear.