Replaced intercooler pump with Johnson and pump doesn't turn on at all!!
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: O.C
2009 Porsche turbo, 2011 Porsche gt3(Luv) 2008 clk black- RIP 2003 Honda Element (Fav)
Replaced intercooler pump with Johnson and pump doesn't turn on at all!!
My stock pump wasn't turning on so ordered Johnson cm30 pump and still nothing.. Checked fuse it's fine... Any ideas? I would like any input...
Thanks..
Thanks..
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ontario, Canada
2002 C32 AMG
my pump was completely shot and didn't turn on either. Just last night I replaced mine with the CM30, everything works great now! I tested my CM30 pump prior to installation. It's a long shot, but you could test to see if the pump even works?
good luck!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Houston, TX
C32/C55 AMG
You could have a burnt out fuse, I can't remember where the fuse is located, but check both areas for a burnt fuse. Hopefully another member can chime in which fuse it is and where it's located.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Houston, TX
C32/C55 AMG
Maybe he checked the wrong fuse? Maybe you have a bad pump, but another way find out is to see if you have voltage coming from the wires, they are simply a positive and a ground.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: O.C
2009 Porsche turbo, 2011 Porsche gt3(Luv) 2008 clk black- RIP 2003 Honda Element (Fav)
Thanks everyone who responded! I love this forum everyone so helpful...
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ontario, Canada
2002 C32 AMG
EDIT, something I forgot to mention. The CM30 comes in both 12V and 24V configurations. Make sure that you purchased the 12V model! It will be indicated on the box, the sticker on the pump as well as the user manual.
Bry
Last edited by Autotechnica; Aug 19, 2010 at 09:46 AM.
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Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: O.C
2009 Porsche turbo, 2011 Porsche gt3(Luv) 2008 clk black- RIP 2003 Honda Element (Fav)
[QUOTE=Autotechnica;4210571]Prior to installation I simply hooked up the CM30's wire leads to a 12V battery. I used a car battery but any 12V power source should work. There doesn't need to be any water, just make sure the motor switches on. It should be really strong, there should be a noticeable jolt. Don't run the motor dry too long, it's not good for it. Aside from that, I can only assume that there's something wrong with the original connector/wires. If you want to test for voltage comming from the original pump wires, the car will have to be running for you to do this. Test with a multimeter. I don't think the pump switches on until you reach past 2500RPM after switching the car on. Can anyone confirm this? If all else fails, since you already have the hard part done (installing the new pump), you might consider bringing it in to a mechanic or mercedes.
EDIT, something I forgot to mention. The CM30 comes in both 12V and 24V configurations. Make sure that you purchased the 12V model! It will be indicated on the box, the sticker on the pump as well as the user manual.
Bry
Thanks again!,
EDIT, something I forgot to mention. The CM30 comes in both 12V and 24V configurations. Make sure that you purchased the 12V model! It will be indicated on the box, the sticker on the pump as well as the user manual.
Bry
Thanks again!,
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2008
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2005 Pontiac GTO 6.0 LS2 - Blue
Check to ensure you connected it correctly. The original wiring is red and brown. Red is positive, and brown is negative. Some pumps will run reversed if you reverse wiring, and some designs will not function at all... I installed a switch in the engine bay to manually run the pump for cool down with engine off. Took around 15 minutes to install, and cost $5 dollars for the switch at autozone. Simple mechanical single pole on/off switch. Placed it on the small plastic piece by battery where the hood shock rests when closed. Tapped into the positive at distribution point by battery under the red cap as it's always active. You can just run positive down to pump positive. No need to mess with the ground...
Super Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 852
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From: DE
2005 E55
The fuse in the rear sam is the main one, but if you look at the fuse diagrams there are other ones that seem to be associated. I've never been able to tell if they actually are or not, but couldn't help to check those. Do a search on this forum for the diagrams. I've uploaded them several times. Also, I had this problem once, and it turned out that when they replaced my rear sam they didn't plug something into the sam the correct way.
