C32 balljoint problems?
09-28-2010, 01:10 AM
#2
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Been shopping? Our torque and thrust arms are rightly considered just another consumable.
Nevertheless, OE Lemförder hardware is preferable to eBay knockoffs.
Might as well specify MB’s retrofittable CLK BS bushings during refurbishment.
Nevertheless, OE Lemförder hardware is preferable to eBay knockoffs.
Might as well specify MB’s retrofittable CLK BS bushings during refurbishment.
09-28-2010, 09:09 PM
#3
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C32
I search anything C32 or AMG on Ebay from time to time. So I am taking your response to mean that the balljoints & control arms are as reliable as those on a Dodge Dakota?!?!?
10-05-2010, 11:15 PM
#6
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No, they are not. Each arm has its own integral ball joint:
Torque arm (#90) is the semi-longitudinal aluminum piece; the iron thrust arm (#140) perpendicularly counters the steering knuckle’s hub-level lateral forces:
Was compelled to also replace the rack’s outer and (subsequent to this photo) inner tie rod ends’ ball joints:
Aforementioned torque arm bushing upgrade:
I’ve zero experience with a Dakota, but the GMC’s underpinnings are still going strong after 230,000+ workaday miles.
Did fit fresh Bilstein’s a hundred thousand ago though.
Torque arm (#90) is the semi-longitudinal aluminum piece; the iron thrust arm (#140) perpendicularly counters the steering knuckle’s hub-level lateral forces:
Was compelled to also replace the rack’s outer and (subsequent to this photo) inner tie rod ends’ ball joints:
Aforementioned torque arm bushing upgrade:
Did fit fresh Bilstein’s a hundred thousand ago though.
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10-19-2010, 02:09 AM
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02 C32, G60 Corrado
No, they are not. Each arm has its own integral ball joint:
Torque arm (#90) is the semi-longitudinal aluminum piece; the iron thrust arm (#140) perpendicularly counters the steering knuckle’s hub-level lateral forces:
Was compelled to also replace the rack’s outer and (subsequent to this photo) inner tie rod ends’ ball joints:
Aforementioned torque arm bushing upgrade:
I’ve zero experience with a Dakota, but the GMC’s underpinnings are still going strong after 230,000+ workaday miles.
Did fit fresh Bilstein’s a hundred thousand ago though.
Torque arm (#90) is the semi-longitudinal aluminum piece; the iron thrust arm (#140) perpendicularly counters the steering knuckle’s hub-level lateral forces:
Was compelled to also replace the rack’s outer and (subsequent to this photo) inner tie rod ends’ ball joints:
Aforementioned torque arm bushing upgrade:
I’ve zero experience with a Dakota, but the GMC’s underpinnings are still going strong after 230,000+ workaday miles.
Did fit fresh Bilstein’s a hundred thousand ago though.
. Do you guys have the part number for the thrust arm (#140)? I'm pretty sure it's the one that is causing my right wheel shaking sensation. Partsgeek has a bunch of them, which is the best or OEM brand? Is this a DIY job?
10-19-2010, 07:33 AM
#11
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C32
SUPRC, I bought mine off of Ebay. I figured as poorly as the OE parts are made and hold up that I couldn't do any worse buying a cheap aftermarket. I bought both the torque arms and thrust arms for a total of$252 shipped! You won't beat those prices. Check links below.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
10-19-2010, 07:54 AM
#12
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03 g35 coupe...........02 c32 Sold
just buy them from rmeuropean.com. There much cheaper.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._C1F643E4.aspx
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._C1F643E4.aspx
10-19-2010, 04:39 PM
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02 C32, G60 Corrado
Thanks a lot guys, I will order them asap. I'm getting a pretty bad shaking when I brake, originally thought it was my rotors (which are relatively new). But, it's apparantly the lower right torque (thrust) arm as there is a lot of play on the wheel. Will see if it corrects the problem.
11-08-2010, 09:43 PM
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Changed the torque arms & the thrust arms, but I still have a clunking/rattle when driving over bumps. It is annoying. I just realized that turning the steering wheel from 10:00 - 2:00 harshly while driving at low speeds will cause the same rattle/clunk noise. I replaced the left tie rod as well when I change the lower arms.
11-09-2010, 12:14 AM
#15
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At least you’ve now ascertained it’s not emanating from the arms’ joints or bushings. :)
Get it up on a lift or alignment rack in order to verify the source of its “clunking/rattle.”
The upper strut mounts, anti-roll bar bushings/links and inner tie rod ends also died an unpleasant death on mine before 50,000 miles.
Each contributed in its own special way to untoward looseness and noise. Pleased to report it currently drives along quite solidly.
Get it up on a lift or alignment rack in order to verify the source of its “clunking/rattle.”
The upper strut mounts, anti-roll bar bushings/links and inner tie rod ends also died an unpleasant death on mine before 50,000 miles.
Each contributed in its own special way to untoward looseness and noise. Pleased to report it currently drives along quite solidly.
11-09-2010, 12:16 PM
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I didn't even think about inner tie rods. Isn't that part of the rack and pinion. I am heading to the mountains Thursday. Looks like I won't have this clunk fixed in time. My sway bar links should be in today.
