Not quite C55, not quite CLK55 – so let’s go with CL55 rear brake upgrade
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,040
Likes: 125
From: Atlanta Metro
Current: C217 V12TT AMG Previously: C55 AMG, SL65 AMG
Thanks guys, the wheels were chromed by the original owner. At first I was unsure (I'm more of a hyperblack person myself) but when they're clean they go very well with the Diamond Black paint. Tomorrow I'm going to wash the car to get the Jurid dust off the wheels and snow/salt/gravel mess off the car as well.
Here's a closeup of both sets of brakes together, I think the new rears complement the fronts nicely. To those who are wondering how well it brakes, well it brakes pretty much the same. The rotor is only 15mm larger in diameter and the piston bores are the same as stock at 42mm. This was done on purpose so I wouldn't have any issues with balance, the MC, ESP, ABS, etc.
Here's a closeup of both sets of brakes together, I think the new rears complement the fronts nicely. To those who are wondering how well it brakes, well it brakes pretty much the same. The rotor is only 15mm larger in diameter and the piston bores are the same as stock at 42mm. This was done on purpose so I wouldn't have any issues with balance, the MC, ESP, ABS, etc.
Last edited by Viper98912; Jan 16, 2011 at 09:18 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,040
Likes: 125
From: Atlanta Metro
Current: C217 V12TT AMG Previously: C55 AMG, SL65 AMG
Washed the car today (in 40 degree weather) to get rid of the salt/gravel/grime that was on the car. Here's a couple of clean pix, and I replaced the front pads and rotors last weekend. Hopefully this will be the last time I clean Jurid dust off my wheels and calipers.
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,040
Likes: 125
From: Atlanta Metro
Current: C217 V12TT AMG Previously: C55 AMG, SL65 AMG
I figured I'd do one last post for anyone that was interested:
Things you'll need (you can find the part numbers from EPC from a 01-02 CL55, S55 from the same years may use the same stuff):
- Calipers, rotors, pads, brake shoes, caliper hardware (I chose used calipers from a recycler, MB rotors, Akebono pads, and MB brake shoes). The calipers are a little hard to find, and the hardware (specifically, the spring clip) can be hard to find. The pin is out there. The brake shoes use the same spring hardware, but the extra 10 bucks for new hardware doesn't hurt.
- Backing plates (you can choose to cut out the old one, and cut/bend/force in the new one and slide it over the hub plate. If not, you'll need some axle nuts and press out the hub and bearing. Will most likely need to do this off the car, and will need to replace the bearings as well). You'll need to drill a hole in the plates as well for easy access to one of the link arm bolts. These are dealer special order items, cost about $30 each.
- Two ebrake shoe bolts (there's four bolts on the backing plate, two are reuseable, two are for the ebrake shoes), per side. These are also dealer special order items, cost about $1 each.
- Precision collars, 10mm ID, 12mm OD, 15mm H. I used (KNCLM10-12-15) from Misumi.com. This is to take up the bolt looseness, as the stock bolts are 10mm in diameter and the caliper is drilled for 12mm. The stock bolts and bolt length work just fine. Your other choice is to drill out and tap the stock knuckle for an M12 bolt....
- Precision washers, 10mm ID, 20mm OD, 6mm H (WSSM20-10-6). This is to space the caliper back into the car, since the aluminum caliper mounting ears are 5mm thinner than the stock iron calipers. There's an additional 1mm offset difference you need to push in or else the caliper rubs the rotor. Overall, this means that the stock bolts only grip 1mm less in the knuckle than original.
- You can reuse the pad sensor cable on the passenger side, although you'll need to ziptie it to the knuckle as the bracket won't be in the right position on the new backing plate.
Additional info:
I bought some 5/16"-18 torx bolts from McMaster, cut off the heads, and glued them in the holes on the front face of the caliper. This was just for aesthetics to match the front caliper torx bolts. I also took a file and dremel to the front of the caliper and took off all of the cast lettering. Once smooth, I painted the caliper silver and placed black vinyl ///AMG logos on. I clearcoated the calipers and it definitely made them shine (and seal in the letters). I didn't buy new piston seals as I tested the calipers beforehand and everything was smooth. The stock plumbing mates perfectly into the caliper, although you may need to disconnect the hardline to twist around the hoses.
Overall, I LOVE this upgrade.
It took a little bit of time and work (and research), but it looks so much better than the stock setup. It fits perfectly, just as it belongs, with no oddball plates or pieces, aside from some precision mounting hardware. The piston bore is also identical (42mm), so there's no issues with pedal feel, master cylinder, ABS/ESP, or overall balance. There's a big weight difference between the stock iron caliper and the new aluminum caliper, although probably offset by the slightly heavier rotor. The 315mm rotor definitely looks bigger than the 300mm and matches the front nicely. It isn't that much larger (only 7.5mm in radius), so no effect to balance as well. The larger caliper with a smooth face and AMG logo looks fantastic. Overall, if you want to keep the front setup and want something to complement it nicely, this is it. And the best part, is that even though the brake shoes are different (larger), my ebrake works exactly as before, which was very important to me. Not as easy to DIY or as big as the CLK/SLK55 rear setup, but definitely the best match with the fronts (and what should've come stock on this car), in my opinion.
Things you'll need (you can find the part numbers from EPC from a 01-02 CL55, S55 from the same years may use the same stuff):
- Calipers, rotors, pads, brake shoes, caliper hardware (I chose used calipers from a recycler, MB rotors, Akebono pads, and MB brake shoes). The calipers are a little hard to find, and the hardware (specifically, the spring clip) can be hard to find. The pin is out there. The brake shoes use the same spring hardware, but the extra 10 bucks for new hardware doesn't hurt.
- Backing plates (you can choose to cut out the old one, and cut/bend/force in the new one and slide it over the hub plate. If not, you'll need some axle nuts and press out the hub and bearing. Will most likely need to do this off the car, and will need to replace the bearings as well). You'll need to drill a hole in the plates as well for easy access to one of the link arm bolts. These are dealer special order items, cost about $30 each.
- Two ebrake shoe bolts (there's four bolts on the backing plate, two are reuseable, two are for the ebrake shoes), per side. These are also dealer special order items, cost about $1 each.
- Precision collars, 10mm ID, 12mm OD, 15mm H. I used (KNCLM10-12-15) from Misumi.com. This is to take up the bolt looseness, as the stock bolts are 10mm in diameter and the caliper is drilled for 12mm. The stock bolts and bolt length work just fine. Your other choice is to drill out and tap the stock knuckle for an M12 bolt....
- Precision washers, 10mm ID, 20mm OD, 6mm H (WSSM20-10-6). This is to space the caliper back into the car, since the aluminum caliper mounting ears are 5mm thinner than the stock iron calipers. There's an additional 1mm offset difference you need to push in or else the caliper rubs the rotor. Overall, this means that the stock bolts only grip 1mm less in the knuckle than original.
- You can reuse the pad sensor cable on the passenger side, although you'll need to ziptie it to the knuckle as the bracket won't be in the right position on the new backing plate.
Additional info:
I bought some 5/16"-18 torx bolts from McMaster, cut off the heads, and glued them in the holes on the front face of the caliper. This was just for aesthetics to match the front caliper torx bolts. I also took a file and dremel to the front of the caliper and took off all of the cast lettering. Once smooth, I painted the caliper silver and placed black vinyl ///AMG logos on. I clearcoated the calipers and it definitely made them shine (and seal in the letters). I didn't buy new piston seals as I tested the calipers beforehand and everything was smooth. The stock plumbing mates perfectly into the caliper, although you may need to disconnect the hardline to twist around the hoses.
Overall, I LOVE this upgrade.
It took a little bit of time and work (and research), but it looks so much better than the stock setup. It fits perfectly, just as it belongs, with no oddball plates or pieces, aside from some precision mounting hardware. The piston bore is also identical (42mm), so there's no issues with pedal feel, master cylinder, ABS/ESP, or overall balance. There's a big weight difference between the stock iron caliper and the new aluminum caliper, although probably offset by the slightly heavier rotor. The 315mm rotor definitely looks bigger than the 300mm and matches the front nicely. It isn't that much larger (only 7.5mm in radius), so no effect to balance as well. The larger caliper with a smooth face and AMG logo looks fantastic. Overall, if you want to keep the front setup and want something to complement it nicely, this is it. And the best part, is that even though the brake shoes are different (larger), my ebrake works exactly as before, which was very important to me. Not as easy to DIY or as big as the CLK/SLK55 rear setup, but definitely the best match with the fronts (and what should've come stock on this car), in my opinion.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,040
Likes: 125
From: Atlanta Metro
Current: C217 V12TT AMG Previously: C55 AMG, SL65 AMG
PS - I still have a [new] reman passenger side caliper laying on my shelf: https://mbworld.org/forums/suspensio...ton-reman.html
Never connected, etc, only used it for measurements. Unfortunately it's been too long for me to return it, and it's been sitting in the classifieds and ebay for a long time now. It normally goes for about $70 plus another $80 for core (which if you're doing the swap, you won't have the core and will have to swallow it). I'm willing to let it go for very cheap for someone to use, I'd hate to trash a rare caliper. Comes with new seals, doesn't include the pin or spring clip.
Never connected, etc, only used it for measurements. Unfortunately it's been too long for me to return it, and it's been sitting in the classifieds and ebay for a long time now. It normally goes for about $70 plus another $80 for core (which if you're doing the swap, you won't have the core and will have to swallow it). I'm willing to let it go for very cheap for someone to use, I'd hate to trash a rare caliper. Comes with new seals, doesn't include the pin or spring clip.
Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 196
Likes: 1
From: Lantana TX
2004 Chrysler Crossfire
What a great project! For anyone that Thinks Mercedes knows best and doesn't ever get it wrong, they just need to read this thread! This is how the car should have been sold. If you really want to see MB getting it wrong, just look at the crap they put on the R170 SLK/Crossfire!
