C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Brake problem?

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Old May 4, 2011 | 10:48 PM
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Brake problem?

I'm inspecting a car and I noticed that the brake pads aren't contacting the whole width of the rotors as you can see in the pic below:


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Whereas you in the other pics I've seen such as this one below shows that the rotor comes into contact. Thus, no thin ring of rust marks on the outer rotor edges.

Is there a problem with the breaks above? Pads were dealer installed just recently. Could it be they installed smaller pads?


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Old May 4, 2011 | 11:09 PM
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Hmm, that is odd, you have a smaller pad. The pad itself may be right (or maybe not), where the backing plate is the right size, but the pad material itself is smaller. I'd ask the dealer what's up.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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You will need to replace both the rotors and pads. The rotors are pretty much useless to you now with those rust grooves (this is my opinion).
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Old May 5, 2011 | 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mrobinso
You will need to replace both the rotors and pads. The rotors are pretty much useless to you now with those rust grooves (this is my opinion).
Sorry but your opinion is very wrong, go look at any other car.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 08:21 AM
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Here are the part nos. that were used based on the service record:

FP NUMBER DESCRIPTION UNIT PRICE
005-420-95-20 TS DISK BRAKE $76.00
211-540-17-17 BRAKE WEAR S $ 9.25
000-990-48-07 SCREW $ 9.56


Any of these not right?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Viper98912
Sorry but your opinion is very wrong, go look at any other car.
Not sure what the reference to "go look at any other car" is supposed to mean. Does every other car's rotors have rust grooves? I am sure I am misunderstanding you. Either way, I thought that once that thick layer of rust gets formed on the rotors, using brand new pads on the rust build-up could cause issues (i.e. uneven rotor wear, possible squeaking, etc.). I would bet that the rust shown in the photo below isn't the minimal rust that appears after your car has been out in the rain for a few hours, but a thicker crust that has formed after a long period of those rotors not receiving any contact from the pad (the harder type of rust to remove). Perhaps OP could enlighten us? I would still go with new rotors just to be safe.

Also, OP those prices sound reasonable for a dealership (marked up of course, but not terribly so at all).
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Why? How much does your dealership usually charge? Are the part nos. correct though?

It was just one of the pics sent by the seller who's quite far away, so I couldn't exactly tell if it's a deep uneven groove or just light surface rust. My plan was that if the pics check out, I'm planning to drive over there and inspect the car physically. But this was one of the things that jumped out when looking at the pics and I would just like to get the opinion of the folks here at mbworld if this is really a red flag. If yes, then I wouldn't bother wasting my time driving a few hours to inspect.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:38 AM
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2021 Yukon XL Denali, 2017 GLS450 4MATIC, 1993 Chevy Corvette
Originally Posted by blade08
Why? How much does your dealership usually charge? Are the part nos. correct though?

It was just one of the pics sent by the seller who's quite far away, so I couldn't exactly tell if it's a deep uneven groove or just light surface rust. My plan was that if the pics check out, I'm planning to drive over there and inspect the car physically. But this was one of the things that jumped out when looking at the pics and I would just like to get the opinion of the folks here at mbworld if this is really a red flag. If yes, then I wouldn't bother wasting my time driving a few hours to inspect.
This is not at all a reason to pass over the car. Worst case scenario you need to replace the rotors and pads (Viper stated that you won't need to replace the rotors, difference of opinion), which, if you DIY, will cost you $200 I want to say, if you take it to the dealer it will be around $400 - $500. Best case scenario you only replace the pads on the front rotors (less than $100 for DIY, $150-$200 at the dealership). That being said, someone who puts the wrong sized pads on their car may have slacked off elsewhere with maintenance (i.e. using the wrong oil/fluids, etc.), so it could be a tip-off the car was not well maintained, or it could simply have been an accidental installation of the wrong pads. One thing is for sure, if you are like me and take notice of every little scratch, tick, rattle, coming from your cars, you would have certainly noticed this strange pad wear on the rotor and remedied it.

Where were you quoting those prices from? I assumed they were from the dealership, although they did seem unusually reasonable for dealership prices.

Last edited by mrobinso; May 5, 2011 at 10:41 AM.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by mrobinso
Where were you quoting those prices from? I assumed they were from the dealership, although they did seem unusually reasonable for dealership prices.
It's from Napleton Autowerks in Illinois. If the part nos. are correct, the only thing I could think of right now is that either those rust circles are grooves that became lower than the entire rotor surface for some reason, or a tech grabbed a wrong set of pads despite having the right part no.

The service sheet also indicates that there was just only 10% left on the previous pads when it was replaced. Is this a dangerously low thickness that could cause the calipers to scrape on the rotor edges and result in the pic above?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by blade08
It's from Napleton Autowerks in Illinois. If the part nos. are correct, the only thing I could think of right now is that either those rust circles are grooves that became lower than the entire rotor surface for some reason, or a tech grabbed a wrong set of pads despite having the right part no.

The service sheet also indicates that there was just only 10% left on the previous pads when it was replaced. Is this a dangerously low thickness that could cause the calipers to scrape on the rotor edges and result in the pic above?
I think you are missing the point I was trying to make. Those rusty areas are actually raised areas where no break pad wear occurred hence allowing the rotors to rust in those "untouched" sections. The rotors, where rusted, are probably a little raised due to built up corrosion over time and rough to the touch.
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