C32 Transmission Flush
09-12-2011, 12:58 AM
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C32/C55 AMG
C32 Transmission Flush
I'm almost at 160k miles and I just finished doing a transmission flush. I'm not sure the car has ever had a flush, but since I've owned the car I had the tcu connector bushing replaced because it was leaking. I hope they dropped the pan and replaced the filter, but who knows.
The fluid was semi-transparent, but it was no where near the red color of the replacement fluid.
I used a concrete mixing pan to catch the fluid and I noticed some shiny metal pieces at the bottom of the pan when I poured it out.
The magnet had a lot of metal dust attached to it.
So the job was fairly simple and straight forward, but I managed to screw it up. I put the car on ramps and placed a plastic cement mixing pan under the transmission. So I drained the fluid through the trans pan drain plug, just needed a 5mm hex socket to remove it. I then dropped the pan by undoing 6 T30 bolts. I cleaned the pan and the magnet and placed a new trans pan gasket on the pan. I removed the trans filter and replace it with a new one, pay attention to the orientation.
I go to put the pan on and I could not get it on, turns out I had the filter positioned incorrectly. I finally get the pan on but the gasket gets a bit of fluid on it, but I think it's okay. I tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern and tighten them until I think they are tight. I should have used a torque ratchet, but I only have a huge one. So the pan is on and I empty the fluid in the pan into my oil extractor, it has measurement marks. I get about 4 liters out of the pan.
Since I bought a trans electrical connector bushing, I figured that I should replace it while I have the fluid out. So I located the connector and removed the plug that protects the wires. Then I turned the connector until it popped out. Then I used a 7mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the bushing in. Next I had to pull out the bushing, took quite a bit of tugging. I tried to put the new one on but I couldn't tighten the bolt, turned out I had to push it in a bit further. I had to use a small hammer in order to push it in further. I couldn't get my hands in the area enough to push it in, so the small hammer worked well. I finally tightened the bolt and now I'm ready to put the connector back in. I tightened the bolt until I felt it was tight. Had some difficulty to line up the plug to the connector, but once you do all you have to do is twist the connector back in.
I finally have every thing ready and I put the 4 liters of trans fluid through the fill tube behind the motor. Tip: to remove the trans fill tube stopper, brake the red lock and then proceed to push it down. Don't worry, the red lock is out side of the tube. I checked the trans pan and notice that fluid is coming from some where. I'm thinking it's the pan, so I proceed to tighten all the pan bolts further. I still have the leak, so I figure it's the trans electrical connector, I undo the connector and tightened it again. This time everything is tight and I wiped everything down to see if anything is leaking. Everything looks good, so I proceed to flush the trans.
I wanted to use the top trans line, but I couldn't figure out how to remove it, so I used the bottom one. I used a crescent wrench to remove it. I only had a bit of fluid come out when I disconnected it. I tried to connect a 1/2"inside diameter clear tube, but I couldn't get it on. I cut four slits in the tube and I was finally able to attach the tube, I also used on O-clamp to make sure it stayed on. The area is so tight that the tube was kind of kinked up, I ran the tube to the oil extractor and turned on the car. Dark fluid began to come out and I waited until I got about two liters out. When I go to replace the two liters, I notice that fluid was leaking from where I connected the clear tube to the trans cooling line. I move the cement mixing pan to catch what ever come out. I proceed to remove two liters of trans fluid two more times and replace it with new fluid.
This is where it gets fun, there's fluid leaking from the trans pan some where and I can't tell where. I tightened every thing again and do the trans electrical connector again. This time I hear a snap and I'm no longer able to tighten or loosen the 7mm bolt. I put everything back together, clean everything up, and started the car. Miraculously nothing is leaking that I can tell.
I removed the car from the ramp, let the car reach 80 degrees Celsius, and then checked the fluid with the trans dip stick. I had to put about half a liter in and then I had to remove some because it was too full. I used my trusty oil extractor. I noticed when I was filling the trans with fluid, some how I had spilled. I'm thinking that I poured too much fluid and it backed up and spilled from the trans fill tube. I noticed that the fluid reached all the way to the transmission pan and accumulated in the area that was leaking before, coincidence? Take in mind it was dark and I had a small light to check everything at that time.
This is an easy job, I would just recommend having another person help you. I think a lot of the errors that I made were done because I panicked and I didn't have the specific torque values. I kept second guessing myself and it caused me to do triple the work. This job should have taken 3 hours or less, but with all my mess ups and redos it took double the time.
I had the infamous 1500rpm jerk and then the car was jerking hard in various gears before before I did the flush. Now the car shifts perfect in all gear and I don't even have the 1500rpm jerk anymore. The car shifts like new and there is no hesitation. I'm still concerned about the leaks, so I left cardboard underneath my car to see if it's actually leaking. I'm hoping the fluid that was coming out was overflow from the fill tube, but we'll see. I'll provided updates and more specifics tomorrow.
Look what I saw parked when I went out to eat. Don't look at the car, but pay attention to the way they parked. The bottom was definitely touching, I checked. I would hate to hear him back up.
And it's such a nice car too
The fluid was semi-transparent, but it was no where near the red color of the replacement fluid.
I used a concrete mixing pan to catch the fluid and I noticed some shiny metal pieces at the bottom of the pan when I poured it out.
The magnet had a lot of metal dust attached to it.
So the job was fairly simple and straight forward, but I managed to screw it up. I put the car on ramps and placed a plastic cement mixing pan under the transmission. So I drained the fluid through the trans pan drain plug, just needed a 5mm hex socket to remove it. I then dropped the pan by undoing 6 T30 bolts. I cleaned the pan and the magnet and placed a new trans pan gasket on the pan. I removed the trans filter and replace it with a new one, pay attention to the orientation.
I go to put the pan on and I could not get it on, turns out I had the filter positioned incorrectly. I finally get the pan on but the gasket gets a bit of fluid on it, but I think it's okay. I tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern and tighten them until I think they are tight. I should have used a torque ratchet, but I only have a huge one. So the pan is on and I empty the fluid in the pan into my oil extractor, it has measurement marks. I get about 4 liters out of the pan.
Since I bought a trans electrical connector bushing, I figured that I should replace it while I have the fluid out. So I located the connector and removed the plug that protects the wires. Then I turned the connector until it popped out. Then I used a 7mm socket to remove the bolt that holds the bushing in. Next I had to pull out the bushing, took quite a bit of tugging. I tried to put the new one on but I couldn't tighten the bolt, turned out I had to push it in a bit further. I had to use a small hammer in order to push it in further. I couldn't get my hands in the area enough to push it in, so the small hammer worked well. I finally tightened the bolt and now I'm ready to put the connector back in. I tightened the bolt until I felt it was tight. Had some difficulty to line up the plug to the connector, but once you do all you have to do is twist the connector back in.
I finally have every thing ready and I put the 4 liters of trans fluid through the fill tube behind the motor. Tip: to remove the trans fill tube stopper, brake the red lock and then proceed to push it down. Don't worry, the red lock is out side of the tube. I checked the trans pan and notice that fluid is coming from some where. I'm thinking it's the pan, so I proceed to tighten all the pan bolts further. I still have the leak, so I figure it's the trans electrical connector, I undo the connector and tightened it again. This time everything is tight and I wiped everything down to see if anything is leaking. Everything looks good, so I proceed to flush the trans.
I wanted to use the top trans line, but I couldn't figure out how to remove it, so I used the bottom one. I used a crescent wrench to remove it. I only had a bit of fluid come out when I disconnected it. I tried to connect a 1/2"inside diameter clear tube, but I couldn't get it on. I cut four slits in the tube and I was finally able to attach the tube, I also used on O-clamp to make sure it stayed on. The area is so tight that the tube was kind of kinked up, I ran the tube to the oil extractor and turned on the car. Dark fluid began to come out and I waited until I got about two liters out. When I go to replace the two liters, I notice that fluid was leaking from where I connected the clear tube to the trans cooling line. I move the cement mixing pan to catch what ever come out. I proceed to remove two liters of trans fluid two more times and replace it with new fluid.
This is where it gets fun, there's fluid leaking from the trans pan some where and I can't tell where. I tightened every thing again and do the trans electrical connector again. This time I hear a snap and I'm no longer able to tighten or loosen the 7mm bolt. I put everything back together, clean everything up, and started the car. Miraculously nothing is leaking that I can tell.
I removed the car from the ramp, let the car reach 80 degrees Celsius, and then checked the fluid with the trans dip stick. I had to put about half a liter in and then I had to remove some because it was too full. I used my trusty oil extractor. I noticed when I was filling the trans with fluid, some how I had spilled. I'm thinking that I poured too much fluid and it backed up and spilled from the trans fill tube. I noticed that the fluid reached all the way to the transmission pan and accumulated in the area that was leaking before, coincidence? Take in mind it was dark and I had a small light to check everything at that time.
This is an easy job, I would just recommend having another person help you. I think a lot of the errors that I made were done because I panicked and I didn't have the specific torque values. I kept second guessing myself and it caused me to do triple the work. This job should have taken 3 hours or less, but with all my mess ups and redos it took double the time.
I had the infamous 1500rpm jerk and then the car was jerking hard in various gears before before I did the flush. Now the car shifts perfect in all gear and I don't even have the 1500rpm jerk anymore. The car shifts like new and there is no hesitation. I'm still concerned about the leaks, so I left cardboard underneath my car to see if it's actually leaking. I'm hoping the fluid that was coming out was overflow from the fill tube, but we'll see. I'll provided updates and more specifics tomorrow.
Look what I saw parked when I went out to eat. Don't look at the car, but pay attention to the way they parked. The bottom was definitely touching, I checked. I would hate to hear him back up.And it's such a nice car too
09-12-2011, 06:58 PM
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C32/C55 AMG
I let my car sit in the same spot of 7 hours and not a drop of fluid. I think I may have done a good job, besides the mistake I made on the trans connector. I'll check the fluid tomorrow to see how it's coming along. So far the transmission is still shifting smooth.
09-13-2011, 08:54 AM
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2002 C32 AMG
help plz
i have the very same famous 1500 jerk on 2nd and 3rd gears but im not sure about one thing... i got the car recently, after three days which is nothiong to know how the car behaves i took it to the garage to do some check ups and maintainence and had to leave the car and pick it up later so the guy told me that he changed the transmission fluid with a filter and i noticed this issue afterwards... may it be a wrong fluid?filter?needs flushing?any ideas thxxx alll
09-13-2011, 09:45 AM
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i have the very same famous 1500 jerk on 2nd and 3rd gears but im not sure about one thing... i got the car recently, after three days which is nothiong to know how the car behaves i took it to the garage to do some check ups and maintainence and had to leave the car and pick it up later so the guy told me that he changed the transmission fluid with a filter and i noticed this issue afterwards... may it be a wrong fluid?filter?needs flushing?any ideas thxxx alll
BTW, total circuit capacity (valve body, torque converter, and the radiator’s integral cooler) is approximately 9.5 liters.
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09-13-2011, 11:03 AM
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More than likely he only dropped the trans pan and replaced the filter and the fluid removed. In my case there was only around 4 liters of fluid in the trans pan and it took 6 more liters to flush out the transmission completely.
I'm starting to notice a slight jerk, but nothing like it was before. It's barely noticeable compared to the way it used to be. The whole car would jerk badly. I'm going to check the fluid level and add more fluid if I need to. I think the transmission is very sensitive to fluid level.
I'm starting to notice a slight jerk, but nothing like it was before. It's barely noticeable compared to the way it used to be. The whole car would jerk badly. I'm going to check the fluid level and add more fluid if I need to. I think the transmission is very sensitive to fluid level.
09-13-2011, 11:51 AM
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I would say a complete flush should help, I'm not sure it will eliminate it completely. I heard the tcu tune by Eurocharged helps also. Take in mind the jerk is common on almost all c32's.
09-13-2011, 05:48 PM
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ya I saw the tcu tune its worth trying at least cost wise vs benefits, but I need to tell u tht I have a jerk plus a lag is wht u talking abt?so most probably a torque converter is needed?
09-16-2011, 12:32 PM
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Update:
So everything was fine until Wednesday, I went to get new tires in the morning and on the way there the car was smoking. When I got to the tire shop, there's a huge puddle of trans fluid accumulating underneath the transmission. I get my tires and drive it home very carefully.
I get it home and put it up on ramps, I have about two hours before I have to go to work. I clean every thing under the car and can't figure out where the leak is coming from, but it looks like the leak was coming from the front passenger side of the engine bay. I couldn't figure it out and then I thought about where I did the flush, the trans cooling lines.
I check the lines and they are tight and there's no leak. I finally realized that it was coming from the top trans cooling line where it attaches to the radiator. I remember removing the clip and deciding not to do the flush from that portion because I didn't realize how it would come off and just reinstalled the clip. I thought it was weird that Mercedes would put a cover on the bolt, turns out that I installed the clip incorrectly and that's where it was leaking from. I removed the metal clip and place it on the engine, I was trying to put something up to give me shade and when I went to look for the clip, it was gone. No where to be found, so I had to go to the dealership and they have no idea what I'm talking about, I even talk to a tech and nothing. Finally after an hour, they figure out what the part was and I was on my way. I finally install it again and drive the car to work.
Thursday comes by and I go to move the car in the morning and it's leaking from the same spot again. I think I lost 1/4 quart of fluid just from moving the car. I come home for lunch and work on the car again, this time I install a new seal on the end of the line and I think I've got it. I take it to Jerry for the tune and leave the car with him.
Today, Friday, I pick up the car, every thing looks great. As I'm driving, my wife is following behind me. She calls me and tells me that the car is smoking. I stop at a gas station and I start working on trying to fix the problem again. I had brought some tools just in case of this happening again. So I fixed it enough to drive it home, so far no leaks, but I know it's not fixed yet.
Does anybody know how to install the upper trans cooling line retaining clip? I can't figure it out and I keep thinking it's fixed and then it leaks the next day.
So everything was fine until Wednesday, I went to get new tires in the morning and on the way there the car was smoking. When I got to the tire shop, there's a huge puddle of trans fluid accumulating underneath the transmission. I get my tires and drive it home very carefully.
I get it home and put it up on ramps, I have about two hours before I have to go to work. I clean every thing under the car and can't figure out where the leak is coming from, but it looks like the leak was coming from the front passenger side of the engine bay. I couldn't figure it out and then I thought about where I did the flush, the trans cooling lines.
I check the lines and they are tight and there's no leak. I finally realized that it was coming from the top trans cooling line where it attaches to the radiator. I remember removing the clip and deciding not to do the flush from that portion because I didn't realize how it would come off and just reinstalled the clip. I thought it was weird that Mercedes would put a cover on the bolt, turns out that I installed the clip incorrectly and that's where it was leaking from. I removed the metal clip and place it on the engine, I was trying to put something up to give me shade and when I went to look for the clip, it was gone. No where to be found, so I had to go to the dealership and they have no idea what I'm talking about, I even talk to a tech and nothing. Finally after an hour, they figure out what the part was and I was on my way. I finally install it again and drive the car to work.
Thursday comes by and I go to move the car in the morning and it's leaking from the same spot again. I think I lost 1/4 quart of fluid just from moving the car. I come home for lunch and work on the car again, this time I install a new seal on the end of the line and I think I've got it. I take it to Jerry for the tune and leave the car with him.
Today, Friday, I pick up the car, every thing looks great. As I'm driving, my wife is following behind me. She calls me and tells me that the car is smoking. I stop at a gas station and I start working on trying to fix the problem again. I had brought some tools just in case of this happening again. So I fixed it enough to drive it home, so far no leaks, but I know it's not fixed yet.
Does anybody know how to install the upper trans cooling line retaining clip? I can't figure it out and I keep thinking it's fixed and then it leaks the next day.
Last edited by loudandheard; 09-16-2011 at 08:39 PM.
09-16-2011, 11:20 PM
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It’s imperative that the tube be tight up against the female junction before sending the clip home.
Respectfully suggest installing a new O-ring to help ensure proper sealing.
PN is 028 997 62 48, though they can vary depending upon VIN.
I’ve some extra seals and clips in the spares bin if sending some overnight would ease your troubles.
09-17-2011, 12:13 AM
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That C-clip can slide into the radiator’s recesses even though the ATF tube isn’t fully seated.
It’s imperative that the tube be tight up against the female junction before sending the clip home.
Respectfully suggest installing a new O-ring to help ensure proper sealing.
PN is 028 997 62 48, though they can vary depending upon VIN.
I’ve some extra seals and clips in the spares bin if sending some overnight would ease your troubles.
It’s imperative that the tube be tight up against the female junction before sending the clip home.
Respectfully suggest installing a new O-ring to help ensure proper sealing.
PN is 028 997 62 48, though they can vary depending upon VIN.
I’ve some extra seals and clips in the spares bin if sending some overnight would ease your troubles.
I installed it just like what you show in the picture and it still comes out. I tried turning it, inverting the clip, every thing, but it keeps leaking. The weird thing is that it will be fine for a while and then it will leak on start up. So I'll think it's okay and drive it and then it happens again. I feel like it's so simple, but it just keeps happening. I know it's coming from there because that's were the fluid is accumulating and dripping from.
09-27-2011, 09:29 AM
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Ok, so I finally figure out how to install the upper trans cooling line in to the radiator and it has been problem free.
A few pointers so that you don't go crazy and question your work.
If you pull out the upper cooling trans line from the radiator, make sure to push it all the way in and the clip installs only one way. Take a picture of it before taking it out. I installed on three separate occasions and each time there was no leak. I would drive it for a day and then I'd have trans fluid pouring out of the car. Make sure to constantly check the connection to see that it's been done correctly. That stupid connection cost me a day at work and having to buy trans fluid at the dealer @$25 liter.
When you fill the trans fluid in the fill tube, make sure to pour very slowly. Since the tube is so small, it tends to overflow if you pour too much at one time. The funny thing is that the fluid flows down the tube to the transmission and comes out around the trans pan. So it appears that your transmission pan is leaking, when in reality it's over flow from the fill tube. I couldn't figure it out, until I actually saw it. I ended up having to do triple the work just because I thought my trans was leaking and all it was, was that the fill tube was overflowing.
The job is very easy and I would recommend doing it. There area various places where you can buy the recommended fluid cheaper than what it can be found at the dealer. Make sure to buy a few spares for just in case.
A few pointers so that you don't go crazy and question your work.
If you pull out the upper cooling trans line from the radiator, make sure to push it all the way in and the clip installs only one way. Take a picture of it before taking it out. I installed on three separate occasions and each time there was no leak. I would drive it for a day and then I'd have trans fluid pouring out of the car. Make sure to constantly check the connection to see that it's been done correctly. That stupid connection cost me a day at work and having to buy trans fluid at the dealer @$25 liter.
When you fill the trans fluid in the fill tube, make sure to pour very slowly. Since the tube is so small, it tends to overflow if you pour too much at one time. The funny thing is that the fluid flows down the tube to the transmission and comes out around the trans pan. So it appears that your transmission pan is leaking, when in reality it's over flow from the fill tube. I couldn't figure it out, until I actually saw it. I ended up having to do triple the work just because I thought my trans was leaking and all it was, was that the fill tube was overflowing.
The job is very easy and I would recommend doing it. There area various places where you can buy the recommended fluid cheaper than what it can be found at the dealer. Make sure to buy a few spares for just in case.
