C55 rotors got to go, need new ones, any suggestions?
Any one suggest new rotors and from where.
I also want to get carbon ceramic rotors, but cant find anyone that sells them.
Any help and suggestions are more then appreciated

Pad selection will make a bigger difference. I switched to EBC Yellowstuff for track and street.

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Carbon ceramic brakes are very expensive and I'm not even sure they make one for C32/c55.
If you want to upgrade your brakes, Stoptech, brembo, slk55, clk63 brakes are ways to go..

If you want to spend your own money and claim that your seat of pants meter that it work wonders, then you should also sell snake oil.
That said, StopTech brake kits are "very" pricey.
I personally use Centric brake products for my cars. Centric is owned by StopTech and has a solid reputation in the after market brake arena.
I use their posi-quiet ceramic pads and their premium rotors in all my cars. In fact, I had the Range Rover dealer install them in my wife's '09 RRS just this past month. Most dealers won't touch after market brakes, but this dealer did after seeing the quality of the pads and rotors. Also had a local Saab mechanic install on my 9-3 Aero. He too was impressed with the quality of the product.
Not only are they quality brakes, but the pads are "low dust" pads - much easier to keep the rims looking clean and new.
I do not track or race my C55 so my comments are limited to normal street driving. When I bought my C55 (new) the very first thing I did was swap out all the OEM brake pads with Centric's Posi-Quiet pads. I noticed absolutely no change in the "grabbiness" of the brakes when I made that change. That's unusual for ceramic pads as you usually give up some grab for the benefit of low dust.
I buy mine from Rock Auto as their prices (as delivered) are the best I've found and shipping is very quick.

If you want to spend your own money and claim that your seat of pants meter that it work wonders, then you should also sell snake oil.
According to Car and Driver, the C55 stops from 70mph to 0 in 165 feet and a CLK63 Cabrio stops in 155 feet. The C55 weighs 3540lbs and the CLK63 weighs 3960lbs but still stops faster. Must not be the brakes though since big brakes make no difference.

According to Car and Driver, the C55 stops from 70mph to 0 in 165 feet and a CLK63 Cabrio stops in 155 feet. The C55 weighs 3540lbs and the CLK63 weighs 3960lbs but still stops faster. Must not be the brakes though since big brakes make no difference.
Oh, did I also mention we had the crappy Pirelli PZero tires and the newer cars have the Conti's or Michelins? There is your difference.
Last edited by kent426; Sep 21, 2011 at 09:34 PM. Reason: missed a point
Oh, did I also mention we had the crappy Pirelli PZero tires and the newer cars have the Conti's or Michelins? There is your difference.
Don't need to track your car to warrant a brake upgrade.
The main advantage of big brake kits is that the components (like rotors) don't over heat as easily and can take more braking abuse because it is essentially a larger heat sink. As such, the pads, the calipers, and brake fluid do not get has hot as easily when subjected to repeated instances of heavy braking, which happens most commonly on the track (road courses). I guess if you happen to do these "canyon" or "mountain" runs on the streets, then it may also apply.
A change in brake pads probably offers the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to stopping power and less brake fade for most people on the street and on the track. Other cheap upgrades include changing to higher temperature brake fluid and upgrading to stainless steel brake lines. The advantage of bigger components for a car primarily driven on the street is questionable, unless you drive and brake like a maniac on everyday roads.
And yes, tires can make a big difference in stopping distances too.
Of course, there can be other reasons to upgrade the brake components: cosmetic purposes, and decreasing unsprung weight if you can get lighter rotors.
Last edited by PC Valkyrie; Sep 21, 2011 at 11:08 PM.

The main advantage of big brake kits is that the components (like rotors) don't over heat as easily and can take more braking abuse because it is essentially a larger heat sink. As such, the pads, the calipers, and brake fluid do not get has hot as easily when subjected to repeated instances of heavy braking, which happens most commonly on the track (road courses). I guess if you happen to do these "canyon" or "mountain" runs on the streets, then it may also apply.
A change in brake pads probably offers the biggest bang for the buck when it comes to stopping power and less brake fade for most people on the street and on the track. Other cheap upgrades include changing to higher temperature brake fluid and upgrading to stainless steel brake lines. The advantage of bigger components for a car primarily driven on the street is questionable, unless you drive and brake like a maniac on everyday roads.
And yes, tires can make a big difference in stopping distances too.
Of course, there can be other reasons to upgrade the brake components: cosmetic purposes, and decreasing unsprung weight if you can get lighter rotors.
My point is that the MAIN advantage of big brake kits is less brake fade when subjected to repeated heavy abuse. If better stopping power is all you're after on the street, then a change in brake pad material is the most direct and effective way.
I do track my cars, and my bias is that it is impossible to replicate that level of speed/braking regularly on everyday streets to induce signficant fade (unless you really do drive like a maniac).
I'm willing to bet that many people who do upgrade their brake components do it mainly for cosmetic purposes, and that the side benefit of "better braking" and reduced unsprung weight are nice side justifications.


Look at my pics below from track sessions, you can see from the heat distortion on the caliper that I punish my system, flush it out with Blue Dot fluid which prevents boiling and a spongy pedal, upgraded to a HP pads and have not had issues, for that matter, the stock brakes lasted one session of 2 hrs of driving without fade.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...low-stuff.html
I have to see how much each company costs for brakes and rotors and on top of that that pads i would need to get.
I might be going to clk63 route, but I was wondering if i would need to change anything on my c55, I saw that one member did that and I would like a response from him, which is always greatly appreciated.
materials, ceramics and composites, cross sectional area, weight of the car, unsprung included, tire wear on the tires, outside temp, temp of the materials, angle of the road, the area of the tire on the ground, ground type weather wet sandy sandy wet and of course braking pressure.
Under certain conditions tires play a major part, such as snow and ice, but the majority comes from the coefficient of friction BETWEEN the brake pad material and rotors, for example put some soapy water on your rear brakes and see if you initially can tell the car having a stopping issue, after the soap dries out and it cleaned, better stopping will occur.
The rotors







