C32 newb with problems possibly with SC
01-22-2012, 08:05 PM
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C32
C32 newb with problems possibly with SC
Hi guys, I'm another noob to mb world. Have some issues with my C32 but heres my problem: thanks in advance for any help or advice!
I currently drive a 02 C32 with about 125k miles on it. Moving back from ny to la my older brother gave me the car which was very nice of him. However, this car has been giving me quite a few problems. It's obviously not a new car but the within 4 months of driving, I could sense the transmission was slipping, overheating smell, and suspension was busted. After careful thought about trading it in and getting a new car, I decided to repair it. Due to a)the car I really want is kind of out of my budget right now and it wouldn't look right for me the drive it right now at my age and b)the c32 is still a beauty and has great performance when it's running well. Long story short, I just got my transmission on my C32 rebuilt along with the suspension which costed me quite a bit even if you consider its kbb value which im sure ill get lowballed if I try to trade it in or carmax it. Well, I got the car back yesterday and the transmission seems to be running ok and the suspension is great. However, the supercharger seems to be in limp mode. It's on sometimes and not on sometimes. Also, when it's on it makes a weird noise when it's accelerating but that noise is not there when the SC is "off". Can any of you guys give me any advice? My opinion is either
1. transmission not rebuilt right
2. SC not running right( from previous posts I read either the air cooler pump, faulty bearing, or MAP failure??)
3. transmission needs to be driven on for a bit
4. computer was reset so need to drive the car for another 75 miles??
I fixed the car with the intention of driving it at least for another 2 years but it would be so sad not to enjoy with the SC. Please help. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated guys. First time posting so you guys definitely know more than me. Thanks a lot!
I currently drive a 02 C32 with about 125k miles on it. Moving back from ny to la my older brother gave me the car which was very nice of him. However, this car has been giving me quite a few problems. It's obviously not a new car but the within 4 months of driving, I could sense the transmission was slipping, overheating smell, and suspension was busted. After careful thought about trading it in and getting a new car, I decided to repair it. Due to a)the car I really want is kind of out of my budget right now and it wouldn't look right for me the drive it right now at my age and b)the c32 is still a beauty and has great performance when it's running well. Long story short, I just got my transmission on my C32 rebuilt along with the suspension which costed me quite a bit even if you consider its kbb value which im sure ill get lowballed if I try to trade it in or carmax it. Well, I got the car back yesterday and the transmission seems to be running ok and the suspension is great. However, the supercharger seems to be in limp mode. It's on sometimes and not on sometimes. Also, when it's on it makes a weird noise when it's accelerating but that noise is not there when the SC is "off". Can any of you guys give me any advice? My opinion is either
1. transmission not rebuilt right
2. SC not running right( from previous posts I read either the air cooler pump, faulty bearing, or MAP failure??)
3. transmission needs to be driven on for a bit
4. computer was reset so need to drive the car for another 75 miles??
I fixed the car with the intention of driving it at least for another 2 years but it would be so sad not to enjoy with the SC. Please help. Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated guys. First time posting so you guys definitely know more than me. Thanks a lot!
01-27-2012, 12:47 PM
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2002 C32 AMG
Im not sure about the noise your hearing but it could possibly be your idler pulleys mine just went at 76,000. The bearings in them went bad with no warning. More than likely the cause of your s/c going into limp mode is that your intercooler pump is going bad and is causing heat soak this is a very common problem with these cars. You can puchase a after market one that is a cm30 made by johnson on ebay. If this isnt the problem it could be a issue with the s/c clutch not engaging. The bearing in the s/c pulley can give off alot of noise when going bad to. Dont give up on c32, if its any of these problems there not extremly expensive fixes.
01-28-2012, 08:06 PM
#3
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Without question the SC shutting down is because of your intercooler pump. If you're comfortable wrenching, it's an easy fix. Otherwise, tell the shop you need an "air charge circulation pump". The burning smell could be from a bad bearing, but if you're hearing the noise when you're accelerating it's probably not the cause of the noise. What does the noise sound like? Is it possible the car has an aftermarket intake and the noise you're hearing is the supercharger whistle?
01-28-2012, 09:53 PM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
The smell and noise sounds similar to bearing failure in the SC pulley. I bought a used pulley with a bad bearing and it stunk and made noise. The SC power loss is usually (99% estimate) the pump, as others have mentioned.
02-03-2012, 09:37 PM
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2002 mercedes c32
Intercooler pump and fuse and relay fix
FYI very important update to intercooler pump issue on c32. I have changed my pump, but it was still not working. I drove the car without pump for about 3 to 4 years now and everything was fine, no break downs. Many years back, I took the car in to the dealer for another issue and apparently, at that time, the tech pulled my fuse and relay switch out and pushed it back into wrong slots. Thus, even with the new pump, still no go. It took 3 days to look through fuse box and diagram as well as another post and pics of other people's rear fuse box to figure out how to complete the intercooler issue on c32 models up to 2003 models. 2004 c32 apparently uses fuse in #18 instead of #5...
Open the fuse box in trunk and look for rear ebox in driver side. open up the panel and foam and on fuse #5, should be a 7.5amp fuse. check to make sure this is still good. then need to check to make sure relay next to it which is in 3rd from top position at bay C is still in the fuse box. (a correct relay switch should be black in color and have 4 prongs, in 2 + 2 perpendicular position.) Mine were empty as the MB dealer tech plugged mine back from fuse #5 into #7, and simple relay C to relay D(a white relay, not a relay switch). Relay D should be the only empty relay socket in terms of relays. If this is fully done with new pump installation, then Everything will work like magic. Remember, before doing any intercooler repair, check this step first. Even with new pump, no fuse, no relay, no go. Also, I was told by dealer that these 2 fuse/relay would normally be replaced when intercooler pump is repaired at their shop. So, maybe pick up new relay C and fuse #5. relay is about 25 bucks and fuse cheap. FYI, no one sells the relay on the internet, need to hit the dealer for this one unfortunately, so no part number is required. Oh, I called the dealer and they say that bay C is in their system as brake off switch or something like that, not intercooler relay switch. Hope this post will save a dude like me a whole lotta time and headache. Bosch SVT lightning pump works like a champ and also, no need to switch pump pipe housing either. Just get some new hose metal bolt clamps and the original hoses fit right into the new pump and no leaks. Use a large wrench and pry off old pressure clamps, and use new bolt clamps. Takes like a minute to do the pump swap.
Open the fuse box in trunk and look for rear ebox in driver side. open up the panel and foam and on fuse #5, should be a 7.5amp fuse. check to make sure this is still good. then need to check to make sure relay next to it which is in 3rd from top position at bay C is still in the fuse box. (a correct relay switch should be black in color and have 4 prongs, in 2 + 2 perpendicular position.) Mine were empty as the MB dealer tech plugged mine back from fuse #5 into #7, and simple relay C to relay D(a white relay, not a relay switch). Relay D should be the only empty relay socket in terms of relays. If this is fully done with new pump installation, then Everything will work like magic. Remember, before doing any intercooler repair, check this step first. Even with new pump, no fuse, no relay, no go. Also, I was told by dealer that these 2 fuse/relay would normally be replaced when intercooler pump is repaired at their shop. So, maybe pick up new relay C and fuse #5. relay is about 25 bucks and fuse cheap. FYI, no one sells the relay on the internet, need to hit the dealer for this one unfortunately, so no part number is required. Oh, I called the dealer and they say that bay C is in their system as brake off switch or something like that, not intercooler relay switch. Hope this post will save a dude like me a whole lotta time and headache. Bosch SVT lightning pump works like a champ and also, no need to switch pump pipe housing either. Just get some new hose metal bolt clamps and the original hoses fit right into the new pump and no leaks. Use a large wrench and pry off old pressure clamps, and use new bolt clamps. Takes like a minute to do the pump swap.
