Bled the brakes perfectly but ESP malfunction...
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
Bled the brakes perfectly but ESP malfunction...
So spent pretty much all day installing the 6/4pot set up i bought a month ago. Bled the system using mityvac and the old tried and true pump the brakes method until nothing but fluid was coming out of the calipers. I never ran the resevoir below the "min level" sign on the resevoir, but the pedal is squishy as all get out and my ESP malfunction light keeps coming on after about a mile of driving.
I've STFF for the last hour and all i can come up with is air in the MC, but to be completely honest that would be literally impossible since I never let the resevoir drain past "min" and that on top of the ESP has me for a loop.
Any ideas? And does anyone know where the MC is located and if it has bleeder nipples that I can check to see if it is indeed full of air?
I've STFF for the last hour and all i can come up with is air in the MC, but to be completely honest that would be literally impossible since I never let the resevoir drain past "min" and that on top of the ESP has me for a loop.
Any ideas? And does anyone know where the MC is located and if it has bleeder nipples that I can check to see if it is indeed full of air?
Thread Starter
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
wow so no one has any idea what the ESP has to do with changing calipers, lines, and fluid?
well then I guess we're all on the same $(*@)(&)(@&$ page! ugh this is frustrating, I seriously DO NOT want to pay some indy shop to diagnose my problem and then basically tell me I owe them $200 for the diagnoses
EDIT: Oh and I forgot to add that my cruise control also doesn't work but I somewhat expected that since it and ESP is on the same system
well then I guess we're all on the same $(*@)(&)(@&$ page! ugh this is frustrating, I seriously DO NOT want to pay some indy shop to diagnose my problem and then basically tell me I owe them $200 for the diagnoses
EDIT: Oh and I forgot to add that my cruise control also doesn't work but I somewhat expected that since it and ESP is on the same system
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Los Angeles, CA
03 C32 AMG
Did a quick search and all I came up with was this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ange-help.html
I would try turning the car on and off 4 or 5 times first (sometimes resets malfunctions), followed by running the car and turning it lock to lock many times (recalibrates esp/abs possibly).
Good luck!
-edit-
Have you driven around with the new brake setup? Driving around with it for a little while might also make the malfunctions disappear.
I would try turning the car on and off 4 or 5 times first (sometimes resets malfunctions), followed by running the car and turning it lock to lock many times (recalibrates esp/abs possibly).
Good luck!
-edit-
Have you driven around with the new brake setup? Driving around with it for a little while might also make the malfunctions disappear.
Last edited by firstshadow; Sep 6, 2012 at 03:40 PM.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
the malfunction goes away after each shut down, but comes back...and it doesn't explain the squishy pedal when no air exists in the system, I bled them again this morning and not a single air bubble
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From: Los Angeles, CA
03 C32 AMG
Might have to have an indy shop do it, last post in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...my-breaks.html
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From: OC
C32
I know nothing of the brake caliper change you performed so can't comment on whether the mod is even compatible with the rest of your braking system but can say that I would agree that if the master cylinder did not run dry that there is no way air got in to the master cylinder or the ABS unit.
What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
Thread Starter
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
just sitting the pads are essentially touching the rotor, i mean at least I can't see any gap...but thats my experience with any car really...
and ya i ended up taking to indy shop
and ya i ended up taking to indy shop
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Thread Starter
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
I know nothing of the brake caliper change you performed so can't comment on whether the mod is even compatible with the rest of your braking system but can say that I would agree that if the master cylinder did not run dry that there is no way air got in to the master cylinder or the ABS unit.
What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
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From: Canada
eclectic assortment of cars
The WIS (for my C43 at least) calls for 2 bar, ie. 30 psi, of pressure to power bleed the brakes. I believe it is to overcome the various route of hydraulic lines and such in the ABS unit (which of course does the actual physical work when the ESP is triggered). If it feels like there is air in the system, then I suggest you probably have air in the system, regardless of what you see. I think you might need to power bleed. You had to remove the old hoses and use new ones, right?
The Motive power bleeder's instructions state not to exceed 20 psi. The gauge does go all the way to 30 psi though. I was about to embark on a brake bleed on my C43 last weekend, but didn't go through with it because of the 30 psi requirement in the WIS.
The Motive power bleeder's instructions state not to exceed 20 psi. The gauge does go all the way to 30 psi though. I was about to embark on a brake bleed on my C43 last weekend, but didn't go through with it because of the 30 psi requirement in the WIS.
Thread Starter
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
where is the brake pad sensor? you dont mean the 2 wear sensors do you? and yes those are connected, i had to drill into the front pads as the rears were supplied drilled form EBC (why they wouldn't drill the fronts idk)...and ya thats possible about the power bleeder...hopefully when my indy shop bleeds it with theirs all will work out...
the main reason this perplexes me is because I did this too my 05 C230k, changed pads, rotors, and new brake lines and didnt have this problem
the main reason this perplexes me is because I did this too my 05 C230k, changed pads, rotors, and new brake lines and didnt have this problem
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,191
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From: Va Beach, VA
05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
ya, weird cuz i just did my c230 the old fashioned way (without the mityvac) maybe a year ago and not a problem at all...go figure!
