C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Bled the brakes perfectly but ESP malfunction...

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Old 09-05-2012, 07:50 PM
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05 C230K SS (sold), 06 C55 (sold), 08 Yamaha R1 (sold), 16 X5M
Bled the brakes perfectly but ESP malfunction...

So spent pretty much all day installing the 6/4pot set up i bought a month ago. Bled the system using mityvac and the old tried and true pump the brakes method until nothing but fluid was coming out of the calipers. I never ran the resevoir below the "min level" sign on the resevoir, but the pedal is squishy as all get out and my ESP malfunction light keeps coming on after about a mile of driving.

I've STFF for the last hour and all i can come up with is air in the MC, but to be completely honest that would be literally impossible since I never let the resevoir drain past "min" and that on top of the ESP has me for a loop.

Any ideas? And does anyone know where the MC is located and if it has bleeder nipples that I can check to see if it is indeed full of air?
Old 09-06-2012, 02:58 PM
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wow so no one has any idea what the ESP has to do with changing calipers, lines, and fluid?

well then I guess we're all on the same $(*@)(&)(@&$ page! ugh this is frustrating, I seriously DO NOT want to pay some indy shop to diagnose my problem and then basically tell me I owe them $200 for the diagnoses

EDIT: Oh and I forgot to add that my cruise control also doesn't work but I somewhat expected that since it and ESP is on the same system
Old 09-06-2012, 03:27 PM
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Did a quick search and all I came up with was this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ange-help.html

I would try turning the car on and off 4 or 5 times first (sometimes resets malfunctions), followed by running the car and turning it lock to lock many times (recalibrates esp/abs possibly).

Good luck!

-edit-
Have you driven around with the new brake setup? Driving around with it for a little while might also make the malfunctions disappear.

Last edited by firstshadow; 09-06-2012 at 03:40 PM.
Old 09-06-2012, 03:51 PM
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the malfunction goes away after each shut down, but comes back...and it doesn't explain the squishy pedal when no air exists in the system, I bled them again this morning and not a single air bubble
Old 09-06-2012, 04:03 PM
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Might have to have an indy shop do it, last post in this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...my-breaks.html
Old 09-06-2012, 04:11 PM
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I know nothing of the brake caliper change you performed so can't comment on whether the mod is even compatible with the rest of your braking system but can say that I would agree that if the master cylinder did not run dry that there is no way air got in to the master cylinder or the ABS unit.

What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
Old 09-06-2012, 04:18 PM
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just sitting the pads are essentially touching the rotor, i mean at least I can't see any gap...but thats my experience with any car really...

and ya i ended up taking to indy shop
Old 09-06-2012, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Zeppelin
I know nothing of the brake caliper change you performed so can't comment on whether the mod is even compatible with the rest of your braking system but can say that I would agree that if the master cylinder did not run dry that there is no way air got in to the master cylinder or the ABS unit.

What does the brake pad to rotor clearance look like? Should be pretty tight (few thousands clearance) without the brake pedal pushed.
They calipers are perfectly compatible
Old 09-06-2012, 05:57 PM
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The WIS (for my C43 at least) calls for 2 bar, ie. 30 psi, of pressure to power bleed the brakes. I believe it is to overcome the various route of hydraulic lines and such in the ABS unit (which of course does the actual physical work when the ESP is triggered). If it feels like there is air in the system, then I suggest you probably have air in the system, regardless of what you see. I think you might need to power bleed. You had to remove the old hoses and use new ones, right?

The Motive power bleeder's instructions state not to exceed 20 psi. The gauge does go all the way to 30 psi though. I was about to embark on a brake bleed on my C43 last weekend, but didn't go through with it because of the 30 psi requirement in the WIS.
Old 09-06-2012, 06:51 PM
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Is your brake pad sensor connected? Not sure, just throwing out ideas
Old 09-06-2012, 08:35 PM
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Try pressure bleeding them. Sounds like there's air in the system which will cause a fault for the brake pressure sensor.
Old 09-06-2012, 10:41 PM
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where is the brake pad sensor? you dont mean the 2 wear sensors do you? and yes those are connected, i had to drill into the front pads as the rears were supplied drilled form EBC (why they wouldn't drill the fronts idk)...and ya thats possible about the power bleeder...hopefully when my indy shop bleeds it with theirs all will work out...

the main reason this perplexes me is because I did this too my 05 C230k, changed pads, rotors, and new brake lines and didnt have this problem
Old 09-07-2012, 03:37 PM
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all fixed...
Old 09-07-2012, 06:19 PM
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All fixed with a power bleed?
Old 09-08-2012, 03:29 PM
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ya, weird cuz i just did my c230 the old fashioned way (without the mityvac) maybe a year ago and not a problem at all...go figure!
Old 09-08-2012, 11:45 PM
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Weird indeed. I bet it has to do with the ABS unit, and overcoming the internal hydraulics in that, as I posted before.

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