I also have MBH LTH, 2.5" SS Full custom exhaust, and E55K Cams. The dyno used was a dynojet. I'm building a new thread with pictures, dyno sheets, and videos. Keep tabs on the (non-AMG) W209 forum, it should be up by the weekend.

Was this pulley custom made? Who did your tune after you upgraded your pulley?

 

How much power is your C55 putting down on a dyno? Do you have a thread with what's been done to it? I don't recall ever seeing any info on your car. I'm going to get my car dynoed again after I get my exhaust system buttoned up. I put 365hp and 399tq on a DynoJet with the SC, shorty headers, and the secondaries and resonator removed. I'm not going to be happy if I don't put down over 400hp now.

 

My exhaust and dyno thread is up!
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ed-clk500.html

 

I know I posted my dyno sheet last year on the forums when I was frustrated with a Dyno run at Chicago Performance. His dyno is historically a heart-breaker and many cars run on other dynos run 20-30 % less RWHP on his. Before the new pulley, I was at 370-380 on three runs (again, this was before the new pulley and a hot summer day). I expressed my frustration and a fellow member sent me his old Kleeman undersized pulley and it made a world of difference. I did NOT get a new tune as its very hard to tune the C55 S7 with it having a MAF. My boost gauge typically shows 8-8.5 with the smaller pulley. I do know that Mike (Alumar) also ran a smaller pulley before he sold his car about two years ago and it too really awakened his car. FYI, Mike's car ran almost identical #s on the Chi Performance dyno that my car did, so I know its not an anomaly. The stock C55 5.4 litre (without any mods) is not as strong as a C32 3.2 litre stock as well. This is well documented on many dyno pulls.

My car was personally built by Cory and crew in Colorado and they did the tune on the stock Kleemann pulley and also I have the headers as well. The only thing I did not get was the cams.

Here's my original Kleemann dyno done in CO: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...11208-1421.jpg

Here's the link source: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...11208-1421.jpg


First two pulls were stock at 314 and 315 on Cory's dyno (this is on the high side for the M113 in our cars) I typically see stock at 280-300. Third and fourth were after install with 496 and 510 respectively (Autorotor, headers and tune).

 

Mike's car and mine did almost identical #s on Chi Performance dyno so yours is about right. I don't place much stock in any dyno though because the operator and car and how its set up (tires/drag etc) can make a HUGE difference in the result. You're better off continuing to run at the drag strip like you have. The dyno says my C32 has about 380 HP and the qtr mile runs I have made pretty much confirm that. I was about 20 HP short of Jakes car in its day and on par with Jerry's.

FWIW, I remain convinced that the C32 is much much easier (and cheaper) to make go fast/quick than the M113 in the C55.

 

So you dynoed ~500hp on Kleemann's dyno and then 370hp on a local dyno? That is crazy! I knew there was variation from dyno to dyno, but goodness!

The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.

 

The biggest reason I'd stay away from a C32 unfortunately.

I'm getting the car tuned by Eurocharged ( still needs some fine tuning ) but I'm surprised how well it accelerates even with the large pulley. My E55 still blows the doors off of it but it feels deceitfully quick.

I'll get the smaller pulley on shortly.

 

As I stated, I prefer to use the Qtr mile as a reference for the true HP on any car as there's so many variables that go into a dyno and its readings. I lost 100 RWHP from one dyno to another. The Kleemann dyno had me a hair over 500 and I was at 400 on the Chi Performance one (before the smaller pulley when I was running 5-5.5 psi) Go figure???

 

The E55 is similar to the C32/C55 in that it is much easier to mod than the E63, just as its easier to do the 32 than the 55.

Your butt dyno will really feel it with the smaller pulley!!!

 

Internet dyno cowboys get fooled many times by dyno numbers .... I used to work with a guy who carried his dyno sheet print out in his shirt pocket at work... you could see him pulling it out showing to anyone who would listen to how his ls1 firetird put down over 400 rwhp! LOL...... take it to the track.

As said above there are too many variables... and the ability to fudge on the number with a dyno..... some tuners will jack up the numbers to boost customer happiness

 

I don't understand why people think that the m113 is any more reliable than the m112. They are basically the same engine with the m113 having two extra cylinders. The supercharger adds a bit more maintenance, but other than that, reliability stays pretty much the same.

The interior is not that bad, but the C55 does win in that department.

 

Hi Guys. Sorry to thread jack but since this thread is full of people who have Kleemann S/C's installed on their M113 motors either 5.0 or 5.4 versions, could someone please post videos of his or her cold start.

I'm having some issues right now with my install. I'm getting some misfiring at idle and my motor seems to be running quite rich and my fuel pressure is high at 70psi. My idle is low at 600rpm and sounds like it's about to die but doesn't. But if I give it a little gas it sounds ok. I know it's really hard to troubleshoot from thousands of miles away but any input that anyone has is worth a listen.

Here's a quick clip of my first start before I figured out the installer F'd up the fuel system installation and I was getting 30psi when revving. I have since corrected the fuel system and now my pressure doesn't go below 70!

I'm wondering if it is possible to damage the regulator by hooking it up wrong the first time around.

I'm also wondering if there is a possibility that Kleemann put the wrong tune on the ECU? Maybe tuned for the headers and forgot to tune for the supercharger?

 

I'm almost certain my car runs 70PSI at idle. Do you have a check engine light on? My car was not tuned at all when I first installed my SC because I still had the restrictive primary cats on at it ran fine.

 

My car:

55psi idle
75psi at 0 psi man pressure
100+ psi under max boost


You can test to see if the fuel press reg is working by disconnect vac source to fpr at idle and see if press changes. You can also hook a vac/boost brake bleeder to the fuel press reg at idle...... At 5psi ans make sure fuel pressure rises.

 

I suspect your vac line to the fuel press reg is leaking.

 

Does anyone know if the pulleys from a pontiac Grand Prix GTP will fit?

 

How exactly do you measure Boost on on our cars? I am using an Eaton unit. Is it through the port that the fuel regulator is hooked up to on the supercharger?

On a side note, my Vac line to regulator is ok. It's in there completely secure. And I checked it from the port to the regulator and it looks perfect with no pinches. Also, I remove it and pressure goes up. My setups also seems a bit different. I don't have a dc/dc inverter. And I had to add an additional fuel pump to the line after the fuel filter that goes into the fuel rail. I also asked Kleemann and they said 70psi at idle is ok. I'm not getting a check engine light.

As a matter of fact I'm getting zero fault codes; which is why I'm suspecting some sort of small vacuum leak somewhere

This is my to do list first thing in the morning:
Check 3 vacuum lines from intake manifold leading to
1.) EGR Valve
2.) MAP sensor
3.) Air injection Electric switchover valve

I have a strong suspicion one of these lines is pinched or leaking....

Edit (resolution):
I solved the problem this morning!! Once and for all I decided to check ALL air lines to and from the supercharger.

I removed the Y-connector intake and MAF to check for air leaks and elbow breather hose as well as breather hoses on top of the throttle body. All checked ok. Then I went on to check the vacuum lines from the rear of the supercharger to the EGR, MAP, and Switchover valve. Low and behold, that was the problem!!!! For some DUMB reason that just doesn't make sense, the installer decided to run two vacuum lines into a T connector which split back into two and ran those two lines to the MAP and switchover valve!!! That explained my idling problem!!! The installation manual couldn't have been any clearer about this part so I really have no clue what the installer was thinking. My problem was how I would fish out these lines from underneath the supercharger since they were run directly underneath it from behind. Another problem was how I would do so without having to remove the entire supercharger unit to access the lines and the barbs!

So after a few hours of kneeling on top of the supercharger in pushup position, trying to squeeze my way behind the supercharger to fish out the lines, I finally got access to the two lines from behind without removing them from the barbs. I removed the T connector that was in place and re-ran the lines above the supercharger along the right fuel rail, as specified in the MANUAL. I suspected something was wrong with these lines so I got replacement lines from my parts dealer yesterday. Luckily they had them on hand. After hooking up the MAP and the Switchover valve to their respective vacuum lines, I reinstalled the MAF, Yconnector and airboxes.

Started her up and she idled PERFECTLY!!!! The car now sounds like it did before the install; perfectly smooth and quiet until you step on the gas. PROBLEM(S) solved!!

 

Amen brother, couldn't have said it any better myself. I tune on dynos, run on the track!!

 

This is exactly the boost I'm seeing with Kleemann headers, downpipes and cats.

Do you know what power your friend's is putting down at the wheels?

 

Nope, not yet.

 

Turns out my vacuum lines were installed sooooooo wrong. Long story on another thread. Anyhow, I resolved the issues myself and corrected all the connections. The truck runs perfectly now! Smooth idle. Smooth power delivery. Smooth everything.

I'm getting 5 psi of boost at WOT. Reading this thread, it seems like people are changing out their 2.8" pulleys to 2.6" and getting considerable boost increases.

I think I need to look into this :-)

 

Hi All with upgraded pulleys. What are you torq'ing your supercharger pulley bolts at with the smaller pulley?

Thanks

 

I torque it with an impact gun.

 

Sorry, I meant what is the amount of torque you are using for the 4 pulley bolts.

Thanks.

 

I just torqued mine hand tight.