For those with Kleemann superchargers ( eatons ), how much boost do you see?
#26
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What kind of dyno (brand) and do you have a sheet to post as those are very big numbers for your mods on the 5.0. I remember Mike's (Alumar) 5.4 C55 with Kleemann package) car only hitting 370 RWHP (Kleemann Autorotor) on Chicago Performance's dyno.
Also, what are your posted qtr mile times??? At that HP, you ought to be in low 12s at 115-120???
Also, what are your posted qtr mile times??? At that HP, you ought to be in low 12s at 115-120???
Was this pulley custom made? Who did your tune after you upgraded your pulley?
#27
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How much power is your C55 putting down on a dyno? Do you have a thread with what's been done to it? I don't recall ever seeing any info on your car. I'm going to get my car dynoed again after I get my exhaust system buttoned up. I put 365hp and 399tq on a DynoJet with the SC, shorty headers, and the secondaries and resonator removed. I'm not going to be happy if I don't put down over 400hp now.
#29
How much power is your C55 putting down on a dyno? Do you have a thread with what's been done to it? I don't recall ever seeing any info on your car. I'm going to get my car dynoed again after I get my exhaust system buttoned up. I put 365hp and 399tq on a DynoJet with the SC, shorty headers, and the secondaries and resonator removed. I'm not going to be happy if I don't put down over 400hp now.
My car was personally built by Cory and crew in Colorado and they did the tune on the stock Kleemann pulley and also I have the headers as well. The only thing I did not get was the cams.
Here's my original Kleemann dyno done in CO: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...11208-1421.jpg
Here's the link source: https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...11208-1421.jpg
First two pulls were stock at 314 and 315 on Cory's dyno (this is on the high side for the M113 in our cars) I typically see stock at 280-300. Third and fourth were after install with 496 and 510 respectively (Autorotor, headers and tune).
Last edited by Newzchspy; 09-28-2012 at 06:33 PM.
#30
How much power is your C55 putting down on a dyno? Do you have a thread with what's been done to it? I don't recall ever seeing any info on your car. I'm going to get my car dynoed again after I get my exhaust system buttoned up. I put 365hp and 399tq on a DynoJet with the SC, shorty headers, and the secondaries and resonator removed. I'm not going to be happy if I don't put down over 400hp now.
FWIW, I remain convinced that the C32 is much much easier (and cheaper) to make go fast/quick than the M113 in the C55.
#31
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So you dynoed ~500hp on Kleemann's dyno and then 370hp on a local dyno? That is crazy! I knew there was variation from dyno to dyno, but goodness!
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
#32
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2005 E55 AMG
So you dynoed ~500hp on Kleemann's dyno and then 370hp on a local dyno? That is crazy! I knew there was variation from dyno to dyno, but goodness!
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
I'm getting the car tuned by Eurocharged ( still needs some fine tuning ) but I'm surprised how well it accelerates even with the large pulley. My E55 still blows the doors off of it but it feels deceitfully quick.
I'll get the smaller pulley on shortly.
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#33
So you dynoed ~500hp on Kleemann's dyno and then 370hp on a local dyno? That is crazy! I knew there was variation from dyno to dyno, but goodness!
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
#34
The biggest reason I'd stay away from a C32 unfortunately.
I'm getting the car tuned by Eurocharged ( still needs some fine tuning ) but I'm surprised how well it accelerates even with the large pulley. My E55 still blows the doors off of it but it feels deceitfully quick.
I'll get the smaller pulley on shortly.![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I'm getting the car tuned by Eurocharged ( still needs some fine tuning ) but I'm surprised how well it accelerates even with the large pulley. My E55 still blows the doors off of it but it feels deceitfully quick.
I'll get the smaller pulley on shortly.
![Big Grin](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Your butt dyno will really feel it with the smaller pulley!!!
#35
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
Internet dyno cowboys get fooled many times by dyno numbers
.... I used to work with a guy who carried his dyno sheet print out in his shirt pocket at work... you could see him pulling it out showing to anyone who would listen to how his ls1 firetird put down over 400 rwhp! LOL...... take it to the track.
As said above there are too many variables... and the ability to fudge on the number with a dyno..... some tuners will jack up the numbers to boost customer happiness
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As said above there are too many variables... and the ability to fudge on the number with a dyno..... some tuners will jack up the numbers to boost customer happiness
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#36
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C32/C55 AMG
So you dynoed ~500hp on Kleemann's dyno and then 370hp on a local dyno? That is crazy! I knew there was variation from dyno to dyno, but goodness!
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
The C32 probably is cheaper to modify, but I don't believe it is nearly as reliable as the M113. Plus, in my opinion, the pre-facelift interior is dreadful.
The interior is not that bad, but the C55 does win in that department.
#37
Hi Guys. Sorry to thread jack but since this thread is full of people who have Kleemann S/C's installed on their M113 motors either 5.0 or 5.4 versions, could someone please post videos of his or her cold start.
I'm having some issues right now with my install. I'm getting some misfiring at idle and my motor seems to be running quite rich and my fuel pressure is high at 70psi. My idle is low at 600rpm and sounds like it's about to die but doesn't. But if I give it a little gas it sounds ok. I know it's really hard to troubleshoot from thousands of miles away but any input that anyone has is worth a listen.
Here's a quick clip of my first start before I figured out the installer F'd up the fuel system installation and I was getting 30psi when revving. I have since corrected the fuel system and now my pressure doesn't go below 70!
I'm wondering if it is possible to damage the regulator by hooking it up wrong the first time around.
I'm also wondering if there is a possibility that Kleemann put the wrong tune on the ECU? Maybe tuned for the headers and forgot to tune for the supercharger?
I'm having some issues right now with my install. I'm getting some misfiring at idle and my motor seems to be running quite rich and my fuel pressure is high at 70psi. My idle is low at 600rpm and sounds like it's about to die but doesn't. But if I give it a little gas it sounds ok. I know it's really hard to troubleshoot from thousands of miles away but any input that anyone has is worth a listen.
Here's a quick clip of my first start before I figured out the installer F'd up the fuel system installation and I was getting 30psi when revving. I have since corrected the fuel system and now my pressure doesn't go below 70!
I'm wondering if it is possible to damage the regulator by hooking it up wrong the first time around.
I'm also wondering if there is a possibility that Kleemann put the wrong tune on the ECU? Maybe tuned for the headers and forgot to tune for the supercharger?
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-05-2012 at 09:54 AM.
#38
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I'm almost certain my car runs 70PSI at idle. Do you have a check engine light on? My car was not tuned at all when I first installed my SC because I still had the restrictive primary cats on at it ran fine.
#39
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C63 507 AMG DA Car #19
My car:
55psi idle
75psi at 0 psi man pressure
100+ psi under max boost
You can test to see if the fuel press reg is working by disconnect vac source to fpr at idle and see if press changes. You can also hook a vac/boost brake bleeder to the fuel press reg at idle...... At 5psi ans make sure fuel pressure rises.
55psi idle
75psi at 0 psi man pressure
100+ psi under max boost
You can test to see if the fuel press reg is working by disconnect vac source to fpr at idle and see if press changes. You can also hook a vac/boost brake bleeder to the fuel press reg at idle...... At 5psi ans make sure fuel pressure rises.
#42
How exactly do you measure Boost on on our cars? I am using an Eaton unit. Is it through the port that the fuel regulator is hooked up to on the supercharger?
On a side note, my Vac line to regulator is ok. It's in there completely secure. And I checked it from the port to the regulator and it looks perfect with no pinches. Also, I remove it and pressure goes up. My setups also seems a bit different. I don't have a dc/dc inverter. And I had to add an additional fuel pump to the line after the fuel filter that goes into the fuel rail. I also asked Kleemann and they said 70psi at idle is ok. I'm not getting a check engine light.
As a matter of fact I'm getting zero fault codes; which is why I'm suspecting some sort of small vacuum leak somewhere
This is my to do list first thing in the morning:
Check 3 vacuum lines from intake manifold leading to
1.) EGR Valve
2.) MAP sensor
3.) Air injection Electric switchover valve
I have a strong suspicion one of these lines is pinched or leaking....
Edit (resolution):
I solved the problem this morning!! Once and for all I decided to check ALL air lines to and from the supercharger.
I removed the Y-connector intake and MAF to check for air leaks and elbow breather hose as well as breather hoses on top of the throttle body. All checked ok. Then I went on to check the vacuum lines from the rear of the supercharger to the EGR, MAP, and Switchover valve. Low and behold, that was the problem!!!! For some DUMB reason that just doesn't make sense, the installer decided to run two vacuum lines into a T connector which split back into two and ran those two lines to the MAP and switchover valve!!! That explained my idling problem!!! The installation manual couldn't have been any clearer about this part so I really have no clue what the installer was thinking. My problem was how I would fish out these lines from underneath the supercharger since they were run directly underneath it from behind. Another problem was how I would do so without having to remove the entire supercharger unit to access the lines and the barbs!
So after a few hours of kneeling on top of the supercharger in pushup position, trying to squeeze my way behind the supercharger to fish out the lines, I finally got access to the two lines from behind without removing them from the barbs. I removed the T connector that was in place and re-ran the lines above the supercharger along the right fuel rail, as specified in the MANUAL. I suspected something was wrong with these lines so I got replacement lines from my parts dealer yesterday. Luckily they had them on hand. After hooking up the MAP and the Switchover valve to their respective vacuum lines, I reinstalled the MAF, Yconnector and airboxes.
Started her up and she idled PERFECTLY!!!! The car now sounds like it did before the install; perfectly smooth and quiet until you step on the gas. PROBLEM(S) solved!!
On a side note, my Vac line to regulator is ok. It's in there completely secure. And I checked it from the port to the regulator and it looks perfect with no pinches. Also, I remove it and pressure goes up. My setups also seems a bit different. I don't have a dc/dc inverter. And I had to add an additional fuel pump to the line after the fuel filter that goes into the fuel rail. I also asked Kleemann and they said 70psi at idle is ok. I'm not getting a check engine light.
As a matter of fact I'm getting zero fault codes; which is why I'm suspecting some sort of small vacuum leak somewhere
This is my to do list first thing in the morning:
Check 3 vacuum lines from intake manifold leading to
1.) EGR Valve
2.) MAP sensor
3.) Air injection Electric switchover valve
I have a strong suspicion one of these lines is pinched or leaking....
Edit (resolution):
I solved the problem this morning!! Once and for all I decided to check ALL air lines to and from the supercharger.
I removed the Y-connector intake and MAF to check for air leaks and elbow breather hose as well as breather hoses on top of the throttle body. All checked ok. Then I went on to check the vacuum lines from the rear of the supercharger to the EGR, MAP, and Switchover valve. Low and behold, that was the problem!!!! For some DUMB reason that just doesn't make sense, the installer decided to run two vacuum lines into a T connector which split back into two and ran those two lines to the MAP and switchover valve!!! That explained my idling problem!!! The installation manual couldn't have been any clearer about this part so I really have no clue what the installer was thinking. My problem was how I would fish out these lines from underneath the supercharger since they were run directly underneath it from behind. Another problem was how I would do so without having to remove the entire supercharger unit to access the lines and the barbs!
So after a few hours of kneeling on top of the supercharger in pushup position, trying to squeeze my way behind the supercharger to fish out the lines, I finally got access to the two lines from behind without removing them from the barbs. I removed the T connector that was in place and re-ran the lines above the supercharger along the right fuel rail, as specified in the MANUAL. I suspected something was wrong with these lines so I got replacement lines from my parts dealer yesterday. Luckily they had them on hand. After hooking up the MAP and the Switchover valve to their respective vacuum lines, I reinstalled the MAF, Yconnector and airboxes.
Started her up and she idled PERFECTLY!!!! The car now sounds like it did before the install; perfectly smooth and quiet until you step on the gas. PROBLEM(S) solved!!
Last edited by BonitaBeast; 10-21-2012 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Added information
#43
Originally Posted by betrezra;5382055[B
]Internet dyno cowboys get fooled many times by [/B]dyno numbers
.... I used to work with a guy who carried his dyno sheet print out in his shirt pocket at work... you could see him pulling it out showing to anyone who would listen to how his ls1 firetird put down over 400 rwhp! LOL...... take it to the track.
As said above there are too many variables... and the ability to fudge on the number with a dyno..... some tuners will jack up the numbers to boost customer happiness
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
As said above there are too many variables... and the ability to fudge on the number with a dyno..... some tuners will jack up the numbers to boost customer happiness
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#44
I finally finished my friends C55 AMG. He has Kleeman headers with a complete dual exhaust, X-pipe and no cats. I just finished installing a kleeman supercharger ( eaton model ) and I see 4.5psi -5psi. Does this sound right? I expect the freer flowing exhaust to lower the boost but didn't know what to expect since I don't know how much this kit is supposed to put out anyways.
Anyways, where can I get pullies to raise the boost?
Anyways, where can I get pullies to raise the boost?
Do you know what power your friend's is putting down at the wheels?
#46
Turns out my vacuum lines were installed sooooooo wrong. Long story on another thread. Anyhow, I resolved the issues myself and corrected all the connections. The truck runs perfectly now! Smooth idle. Smooth power delivery. Smooth everything.
I'm getting 5 psi of boost at WOT. Reading this thread, it seems like people are changing out their 2.8" pulleys to 2.6" and getting considerable boost increases.
I think I need to look into this :-)
I'm getting 5 psi of boost at WOT. Reading this thread, it seems like people are changing out their 2.8" pulleys to 2.6" and getting considerable boost increases.
I think I need to look into this :-)