GT-ER

Those should be hand tight, but the one my friend has doesn't have 4 bolts, just one large nut.

BonitaBeast

Upon removal of the old pulley included with the supercharger, I noticed it was a 3.0" pulley so I was only getting 5lbs of boost. Just installed the 2.6" pulley from Kleemann and now I'm getting a full 9psi of boost at WOT and avg 11.8 to 11.4 AFR. I need to record my AFR again on a clear launch to get more accurate numbers. For the time being, it's looking pretty good and feeling a bit more peppy even at lower RPMs.

Holy cow! Talk about night and day difference. The beauty of it all is that it still drives like it's completely stock until your romp on the pedal!!

2MCHCAR

Did you get a retune when you upgraded the pulley? What tune did you go with?
How do you go about measuring the boost level on the Kleemann Eaton Systems?
How difficult was the installation/removal of the pulley? Is there a special tool needed for the process?

Sorry for all the questions!

blackbenzz

Changing pulleys on the Kleemann blower is the best bang for buck. I kept going smaller and smaller loll

betrezra

Bonita - you may wish to check your Mass Air Meter voltage to be sure you are not pegging the meter (going over 4.8Volts), with this pulley change.

BonitaBeast

No apologies needed. I was the one with all the questions last month! :-)

I sent the ECU to Kleemann for a tune when I installed the supercharger and headers. The pulley that came with the supercharger kit was a 3 inch pulley. Apparently, the kit for the M113 5.4L is supposed to include the 2.6 inch pulley; not the 3 inch one.

The pulley had 4 allen bolts to secure it to the supercharger drive shaft. It was a very simple removal. Just loosen the tensioner bolt for the main drive belt. Loosen the 4 allen bolts and replace the pulley. I had to find longer allen screws for the new pulley because the aluminum pulley was thicker than the original 3 inch one installed.


According to the guys at KLeemann, I do not need a retune for the change in Pulley size. Since my fuel delivery system is dependent on boost pressure, the fuel regulator adjusts to the boost and supplies the correct amount of fuel to the injectors and the ECU can compensate for these changes.

For Boost, I hooked up a permanent gauge right in front of the shift lever and next to that an AFR gauge. The boost gauge is T'd into my fuel regulator boost/vacuum line. My AFR gauge (innovate LC-1)is hooked up to an OT-2 so I can data log everything on my cel phone or computer.


On my phone this is how the app looks. I just connect to the OT-2 with my phone via wifi in the car.

BonitaBeast

Yup, checked the voltage. I'm maxing out at 4.77V at redline.

Apparently, you will also know your voltage is going 4.8V or higher if your shifting starts getting jerky and not smooth under hard acceleration.

I'm kinda paranoid about checking this voltage because I ended up not installing a Kleemann adustable resistor. My kit was missing the adjustable resistor (I personally think the original installer just misplaced it, but that's another story). So I went with a fixed value resistor I bought from an electronics store.

Would anyone know, in OBD II linggo, what the MAF voltage would be? I have a strong feeling, I can monitor the voltage with the Logworks App on my phone while hooked up to the Innovate OT-2 that's hooked up to the car's computer. This way, I don't have to keep removing my entire glove box when I want to measure my MAF voltage. :-)

2MCHCAR

betrezra, how did you go about checking the Mass Air Meter?

Thanks for the reply!
My pulley is held on by a single bolt (no allen bolts) so our systems must be slightly different. It's good to know that I don't have to have a retune with the pulley change!
Where on the supercharger do you hook up the boost guage to? I still need to figure out the easiest way to measure my current boost pressure and Mass Air Meter settings for two reasons; 1) I want to find out if I can put on a smaller pulley, so Cory wants to know how much boost I'm currently running with my 2.8" pulley (my 5.0L M113 requires less air than the 5.4 M113); 2) I'm experiencing jerky shifts under hard acceleration.

91RS

The good thing about your car is the 5.0L has a lower compression ratio than the N/A 5.5L so you can get away with some more boost.

My car only got the jerky shifts right after I had it tuned and only using the kickdown. It seemed to just do it relearning things because after doing it more it's gone away.

GT-ER

My friends C55 had extremely jerky shifts after I installed the 2.5" pulley. I sent the tcu to Jerry for tuning to see if it goes away. To bad the engine is in a million pieces right now...lol.

BonitaBeast

This is what my original pulley looked like (3 inches):


I believe your SC is the autorotor or the older Eaton. If so, that is why your pulley only has a single bolt holding it to the SC drive shaft.

I've hooked up the boost guage two different ways. Actually it was the one way hooking it up but in two different locations along the vacuum/boost line.
In this picture, I circled the boost/vacuum line coming out of the manifold and i circled the fuel regulator. The boost line from the manifold hooks up to the fuel regulator so you can simply "T" a connection from this line. This line will hook up to your boost gauge.


I installed my T connection near the Fuel Regulator and tapped into the vacuum/boost line of the regulator and ran the hose through the firewall by the driver's side and into the center console.

The MAF lead is where you measure the voltage for the Air Mass sensor. There is a striped yellow wire that runs from the MAF sensor into the ECU. I'm not sure where your ECU is on your car, but this is also the line that the Kleemann variable resistor is hooked up to in series. You need to measure the voltage on this wire AFTER the resistor (meaning between the resistor and the ECU). You hook up one lead (red) of the multimeter to one end of the resistor and ground the other lead (black) to some part of the car. The voltage should increase as you accelerate and the RPMs go up but the voltage should not reach 4.8V.

91RS

The older version of the Eaton unit also used the single bolt to hold the pulley on. GT-ER's friend's car has that version, that's how he was able to find a smaller pulley from a Mustang to fit.

GT-ER

Yep.